2000 Maxima stalling mystery
06-20-2016, 03:37 AM
#1
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2000 Maxima stalling mystery
2000 Nissan Maxima, 197,327 miles. Stalls after starting. Was told by AAA service center that enginewas blown. They did not tell me how they came to that conclusion. It starts, runs briefly and stalls. Then itwill not start at all, just turns over with no signs of starting until it hassat awhile. I replaced the MAF and PCV valve with no difference in operation. Idon't believe a blown engine would run at all, but I could be wrong. I've beenlooking at forums and the next probable cause could be the fuel pump? No codes.Any advice is welcome.
Last edited by Pmontag; 06-20-2016 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Make shorter and correct text size and color
06-20-2016, 06:52 AM
#3
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Reformatted the original post
My 2000 Nissan Maxima with 197,327 miles has run into aproblem that I’m trying to diagnose. A few weeks ago while driving it wouldfeel like it was going to stall out unless you gave it gas. Then it turned intoidling OK but as soon as you stepped on the gas it would immediately stall.And when it was running, I didn't see or hear any vacuum leaks. Then it quickly turned into stalling out while just idling. Now it might startonce, run for less than a minute, and stall out. Then it will not start at all,just turn over with no signs of starting. I researched probable causes and mostroads were indicating Mass Airflow Sensor issues. So I purchased a new MAF andPCV valve and installed them both. No difference in operation. In fact, itwouldn’t even start until it was towed to a AAA service center, where again, itstarted once and stalled. The triple A service center diagnosed theproblem as a "blown engine", and wanted around $6,000 to repair it.I'm not buying that, especially since I found out the same service center had 7"blown engines" in one week. Seems odd. I don't believe a blownengine would run at all, but I could be wrong. I've been looking at forums andthe next probable cause I found was possibly the fuel pump? So I took thebattery out and cleaned all the terminals and corrosion, and charged the battery.It took the full charge. Then I looked underneath. Nothing out of the ordinary. No leaks, all O2 sensor sintact, exhaust looks fine, and no shorted wires or disconnected plugs. Nothing obvious. No codes either. I also looked over the top of the engine in detail andthe only thing I saw was a vacuum advance on the left side of the engine with adeteriorated rubber seal around the actuator piston. I don't know what itdoes or if it’s an issue. I’ve been researching and someone said it could bethe fuel pump. Might explain one start and then nothing? Still not sure that’s the issue, so I’m not going to pull it out if there are other suggestions out there. Yesterday I put the battery back in and again, it started, ran for a very short time and stalled out. I'm not ready to throw in the towel on my Nissan, which I purchased new in 2000. It's served us well, and the family is saying "let it go". So if the engine was truly blown, then salvage it is. But with 4 new tires and a new starter I installed 3 months ago, I'm wondering if I can get some more years out of it. Any advice is welcome. Thanks everyone. Phil
Last edited by HerBlue2kSE; 06-20-2016 at 06:55 AM.
06-20-2016, 03:32 PM
#7
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Fuel pump should "buzz" when you turn on the key to the run position. If you don't get the "buzz" sound you could have a bad pump. Could also be a bad relay for the fuel pump. Start with listening for the pump in the "run" position.
The inconsistency makes me wonder if there is a bad connection/broken wire somewhere.
The inconsistency makes me wonder if there is a bad connection/broken wire somewhere.
06-20-2016, 07:40 PM
#8
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Yes, check the fuel supply, as suggested in post #7 above.
Also, be aware of the fact that when you start the car, it runs off presets. Once it gets going/warm, it uses information provided by the various sensors. So, a bad sensor could cause the problem you are experiencing. I would check your CAM, CRANK, VSS (the "Revolution Sensor"), and MAF sensors.
Also, be aware of the fact that when you start the car, it runs off presets. Once it gets going/warm, it uses information provided by the various sensors. So, a bad sensor could cause the problem you are experiencing. I would check your CAM, CRANK, VSS (the "Revolution Sensor"), and MAF sensors.
Last edited by maxiiiboy; 06-20-2016 at 08:56 PM.
06-21-2016, 05:58 PM
#10
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Thank you everyone for your advice. The fuel pump does not make any noise. But before I remove it, I want to measure the voltage going to the pump at the 5 pin connector. This way I can verify the fuel pump relay is engaging. I have been searching for a wiring harness pin-out schematic for the connector. Any idea where I can find that drawing? I must have looked at 100+ drawings for the pinout assignment.
06-21-2016, 06:39 PM
#11
06-22-2016, 08:22 AM
#13
but you are correct, OP here's the 2000.5 manual http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/
i forget the cutoff date so you'll have to look it up yourself. i was figuring the fuel pump would be the same/similar, so i just picked one
06-23-2016, 03:53 AM
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Thank you everyone. The advice and information provided was so very helpful. I was able to verify that the fuel pump relay is working and I'm getting 12 v for a short burst at the pump harness when the key is turned on. I measured the resitance of the fuel pump between pins 1 and 3 and get an open reading. So it's looking like the pump is bad. I get most of my parts from Rock Auto, and they have about 10 pumps. Any suggestions or experience on the best one to get as a replacement? And is the filter screen reusable or will I need that part also? Thanks much. You have all been extremely helpful.
06-25-2016, 06:17 PM
#16
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Mystery solved! It was the Fuel Pump. I purchased a CARQUEST model E8335, E260183 from Advance Auto online. It required some slight modifications to the rubber base holder (I needed to trim off 3 rubber posts and trim some of the base rubber to fit the clamp back on that holds it in place). Also, the strainer filter that I purchased that says fits my model car did not. The rubber did not clear the new strainer mounting set-up. So I cleaned and re-used the old strainer. Plugged it in and the car ran fine. Test drove it and everything was back to normal. Wow! Went from a blown engine to a $70.00 fuel pump replacement. I followed the trouble shooting methods and suggestions you all provided to me. What a great forum! My son was so happy! Really appreciate all your insights and documents.
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