Rear wheel well rust need suggestions
07-06-2016, 06:55 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
Rear wheel well rust need suggestions
Hey everyone,
New to these forums. I've got a 03 maxima se with really bad rear wheel well rust. I paid only $1600 for the car is has 1444xx miles on it and this is the only thing it needs besides a little golf ball sized dent repaired and to get a new a/c compressor. Anyone know a shop here in south jersey that would be able to repair this or has anyone brought theirs to a body shop to have this repaired? if so how much did it run you? Its like this on both sides and I want to have this maxima last me. I don't want to sand it and make new ones out of bondo or anything. I'm assuming it would have to be cut and have a new one re-welded considering I don't see any bolts or anything of that nature. I know how to work on cars and am a mechanic by trade although body work sucks and that is just a skill that Im unable to acquire haha. Let me know. Picture is attached of the passenger rear, and the driver rear is the exact same on that side. I hope this wouldn't cost much because I've seen a similar car with their rears cut and re-welded so I'm looking toward something like that. Thanks again everyone!
-Antonio
New to these forums. I've got a 03 maxima se with really bad rear wheel well rust. I paid only $1600 for the car is has 1444xx miles on it and this is the only thing it needs besides a little golf ball sized dent repaired and to get a new a/c compressor. Anyone know a shop here in south jersey that would be able to repair this or has anyone brought theirs to a body shop to have this repaired? if so how much did it run you? Its like this on both sides and I want to have this maxima last me. I don't want to sand it and make new ones out of bondo or anything. I'm assuming it would have to be cut and have a new one re-welded considering I don't see any bolts or anything of that nature. I know how to work on cars and am a mechanic by trade although body work sucks and that is just a skill that Im unable to acquire haha. Let me know. Picture is attached of the passenger rear, and the driver rear is the exact same on that side. I hope this wouldn't cost much because I've seen a similar car with their rears cut and re-welded so I'm looking toward something like that. Thanks again everyone!
-Antonio
07-06-2016, 07:31 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
where did you get anything about my lower rad support? lol theres no rust on this car beside there. it was taken care of besides that portion lol. thank you though? And why would i get rid of my precats? Need it fixed btw I want to keep my car.
07-06-2016, 07:52 PM
#4
It's very rare for the rear to be rusted and not the rad support, too. Hell, rad support can be rusted to pieces and minimal rust if any on the rear.Precats make engine go
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 07-06-2016 at 07:57 PM.
07-06-2016, 09:17 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
- If your rear wheel wells are rusted, then it's all but certain your lower rad support is also rusted (unless it was already replaced).
- The rad support is more important than the wheel wells - it holds the cross-member which supports the engine.
- A VERY common problem with the 2002-2003 Maximas (hence, your car) is that the pre-cats wear out, disintegrate, and ruin the engine. Needless to say, the repair is VERY expensive ... .
- You should figure out the status of these three problem areas on your car before you attempt any expensive repairs. All three of them. Only then can you make a good decision re. what to fix when&how, or whether to fix it at all, and how much money to spend.
Last edited by maxiiiboy; 07-06-2016 at 09:20 PM.
07-07-2016, 01:29 AM
#7
Going along with the rad support talk... I also got my wheel wells touched up before realizing how bad my rad support was. It wasn't horrible, nor were my wheel wells, but it was close to the breaking point when I found it, and I had it repaired. My first repair was more of a patch job which turned into a headache later, but any sort of repair to that support should be prioritized. It might as well just be for peace of mind if anything.
Pre-cats are also a thing. Try to just get away with gutting them and make sure your main catalytic converter is good. I had similar miles to your Maxima when I had mine removed, had no problems before and my car was well maintained without notable oil burning (lucky lucky), but it can become a serious problem right around where our mileage sits.
BUT. On your topic. The wheel well rust can be tough. Yours are a lot worse than mine were. Someone on this forum has a thread where they purchased fender flares that were pre-cut for our Maximas and rebuilt their wheel wells with the flare. They essentially trimmed off the rust and patched it into the remaining metal, sanded it down, and painted it. Looked very good and it mimics the original shape very well. The fender flares are on ebay for between 50 and 100 bucks, and definitely are better used for rebuilding our cars than as flashy chrome trim.
Here's the thread with the fix this guy used https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post8117408
Pre-cats are also a thing. Try to just get away with gutting them and make sure your main catalytic converter is good. I had similar miles to your Maxima when I had mine removed, had no problems before and my car was well maintained without notable oil burning (lucky lucky), but it can become a serious problem right around where our mileage sits.
BUT. On your topic. The wheel well rust can be tough. Yours are a lot worse than mine were. Someone on this forum has a thread where they purchased fender flares that were pre-cut for our Maximas and rebuilt their wheel wells with the flare. They essentially trimmed off the rust and patched it into the remaining metal, sanded it down, and painted it. Looked very good and it mimics the original shape very well. The fender flares are on ebay for between 50 and 100 bucks, and definitely are better used for rebuilding our cars than as flashy chrome trim.
Here's the thread with the fix this guy used https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post8117408
Last edited by Cotozic; 07-07-2016 at 01:31 AM.
07-07-2016, 04:49 AM
#8
honestly the precat thing is not common. lets just get that straight. i removed my originals at 184k and not one lick of anything was deteriorated , i think it can disintegrate on cars that are beat on and driven spirited often.
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
07-07-2016, 04:51 AM
#9
- If your rear wheel wells are rusted, then it's all but certain your lower rad support is also rusted (unless it was already replaced).
- The rad support is more important than the wheel wells - it holds the cross-member which supports the engine.
- A problem with the 2002-2003 Maximas (hence, your car) is that the pre-cats wear out, disintegrate, and ruin the engine. Needless to say, the repair is VERY expensive ... .
- You should figure out the status of these three problem areas on your car before you attempt any expensive repairs. All three of them. Only then can you make a good decision re. what to fix when&how, or whether to fix it at all, and how much money to spend.
07-07-2016, 05:01 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 498
I can attest to the rad support. I am the original owner of a 2k SE that has been babied by my wife since we purchased it. With 128k miles showing, the rad support is much worse than I ever expected. While poking around the a33 Maximas at the local pick-n-pull I found the rust on those cars make my car look great. Also, the rust on the rear wheels of my 2k only really started aggressively during the past two years.
You can see pics of my car here ---> https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-supports.html
You can see pics of my car here ---> https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-supports.html
07-07-2016, 07:55 AM
#11
honestly the precat thing is not common. lets just get that straight. i removed my originals at 184k and not one lick of anything was deteriorated , i think it can disintegrate on cars that are beat on and driven spirited often.
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
Precats came in the trunk of a car a friend recently purchased (headers were put on several years ago) and even those were starting disintegrate (estimate about 100k on them).
For every member on here that's seen it, there's gonna be tons more that junked the car and/or didn't even know. Some people replace the motors and throw the cats back on, then junk the car when the new motor dies. They never had a clue.
Florida? Nah, but there sure are some meth heads here, too.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 07-07-2016 at 08:05 AM.
07-07-2016, 09:14 AM
#12
No, you were just lucky/hwy miles. They're all over CL here starting at about 150k. Driven hard, it'll be dead long before then. Bad maf or O2 sensor would greatly accelerate it by running even more rich.
Precats came in the trunk of a car a friend recently purchased (headers were put on several years ago) and even those were starting disintegrate (estimate about 100k on them).
For every member on here that's seen it, there's gonna be tons more that junked the car and/or didn't even know. Some people replace the motors and throw the cats back on, then junk the car when the new motor dies. They never had a clue.
Florida? Nah, but there sure are some meth heads here, too.
Precats came in the trunk of a car a friend recently purchased (headers were put on several years ago) and even those were starting disintegrate (estimate about 100k on them).
For every member on here that's seen it, there's gonna be tons more that junked the car and/or didn't even know. Some people replace the motors and throw the cats back on, then junk the car when the new motor dies. They never had a clue.
Florida? Nah, but there sure are some meth heads here, too.
07-07-2016, 10:28 AM
#13
Head to a salvage yard and remove the front two fenders from a 2000-2003 Maxima. These can be used for the metal for the rears. The curvature is very similar. Have them cut out the bad metal in the rear and use the new fender metal to weld in.
07-07-2016, 01:01 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Hertford, NC.
Posts: 332
honestly the precat thing is not common. lets just get that straight. i removed my originals at 184k and not one lick of anything was deteriorated , i think it can disintegrate on cars that are beat on and driven spirited often.
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
it may be more than rare, but not common imho
and how do you know so much about rust Child_Uv-Korn ? i thought u were in florida ?
07-07-2016, 01:07 PM
#15
BUT....i must clarify, I could bet all those instances did not all have engine failure due to the precats disintegrating and being sucked in etc..... so don't put the two issues together.
in other words out of your few examples which engines are still running? ? see what i mean.
07-07-2016, 01:25 PM
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Hertford, NC.
Posts: 332
I got very lucky with my current 03. I pulled the cats and it was so torn up. No ses light or anything. Pulled a hand full of disintegrated cat out.
My daughter's 03 was missing chunks out of the precats
I lost a 03 spec v motor due to the cat disintegrating
07-07-2016, 01:28 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
I can attest to the rad support. I am the original owner of a 2k SE that has been babied by my wife since we purchased it. With 128k miles showing, the rad support is much worse than I ever expected. While poking around the a33 Maximas at the local pick-n-pull I found the rust on those cars make my car look great. Also, the rust on the rear wheels of my 2k only really started aggressively during the past two years.
You can see pics of my car here ---> https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-supports.html
You can see pics of my car here ---> https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-supports.html
http://www.getallparts.com/Nissan-Ma...rHLhoCIArw_wcB
07-07-2016, 01:31 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
No, you were just lucky/hwy miles. They're all over CL here starting at about 150k. Driven hard, it'll be dead long before then. Bad maf or O2 sensor would greatly accelerate it by running even more rich.
Precats came in the trunk of a car a friend recently purchased (headers were put on several years ago) and even those were starting disintegrate (estimate about 100k on them).
For every member on here that's seen it, there's gonna be tons more that junked the car and/or didn't even know. Some people replace the motors and throw the cats back on, then junk the car when the new motor dies. They never had a clue.
Florida? Nah, but there sure are some meth heads here, too.
Precats came in the trunk of a car a friend recently purchased (headers were put on several years ago) and even those were starting disintegrate (estimate about 100k on them).
For every member on here that's seen it, there's gonna be tons more that junked the car and/or didn't even know. Some people replace the motors and throw the cats back on, then junk the car when the new motor dies. They never had a clue.
Florida? Nah, but there sure are some meth heads here, too.
07-07-2016, 01:31 PM
#20
hey, don't get confused. bad precats are one thing by themselves, all cars have this issue, its almost a standard maintenance thing with long term car owners.
BUT....i must clarify, I could bet all those instances did not all have engine failure due to the precats disintegrating and being sucked in etc..... so don't put the two issues together.
in other words out of your few examples which engines are still running? ? see what i mean.
BUT....i must clarify, I could bet all those instances did not all have engine failure due to the precats disintegrating and being sucked in etc..... so don't put the two issues together.
in other words out of your few examples which engines are still running? ? see what i mean.
See EVERY single qr25 that did not get a header or at least new precat before oil burning went insane. I see tons of them on CL still. There's not many left even lol.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 07-07-2016 at 01:35 PM.
07-07-2016, 01:32 PM
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2016
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will this work even though theres rusting building beside the doors as well on the wheel well? Its the wheel well but it goes almost to where the doors meet..
07-07-2016, 01:35 PM
#22
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They absolutely did. The engine will not last long. Oil burning will increase until it runa dry and the motor is toast. Even if you keep topping it off, it'll start burning a quarter every 500 miles...or less.
See EVERY single qr25 that did not get a header or at least new precat before oil burning went insane. I see tons of them on CL still. There's not many left even lol.
See EVERY single qr25 that did not get a header or at least new precat before oil burning went insane. I see tons of them on CL still. There's not many left even lol.
07-07-2016, 01:37 PM
#23
Should I just pull the damn precat and check then? I'm going to assume theres only one since this is a 6cyl... or is there a forward and aft header type set up? once its removed what should i do afterward? I don't really have the $200 to replace a part that isn't needed this very moment.. as for engines theres a few around here that have 90k miles for Roughly $350...
07-07-2016, 01:48 PM
#24
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Its my first maxima. Gutting them and removing and reinstalling won't be an issue although could you post a link for a walkthrough? never worked on a maxima before so id just like to familiarize myself... also where can i get a set of nonfoulers and what happens when inspection time comes? they're pretty rough here in nj...
07-07-2016, 02:16 PM
#25
well for a rad support replacement, lucky for me my brother just had our uncle replace his rad support on his 01 altima. He can weld i unfortunately cannot lol... so i guess I'll just throw $100 his way. Is this what i need to replace it?...(see link below)
http://www.getallparts.com/Nissan-Ma...rHLhoCIArw_wcB
http://www.getallparts.com/Nissan-Ma...rHLhoCIArw_wcB
you're going to want to get OEM nissan for that
http://nissanpartsasap.com/nissanpar...artcode=62530M
aftermarket have a bad reputation, typically have a thinner metal and fail quickly
07-07-2016, 02:33 PM
#26
I have bad rear well rust just like yours (probably worse), and my lower rad support was gone. Cost $225 labor and whatever the oem part cost (can't remember now....$180?). I found the best deal on ebay.
I'd suggest doing the lower rad support, then gut the precats, then fix the fenders.
this man speaks truth, you need oem the aftermarket ones won't last - search and you'll find several threads where ppl didn't listen and they had to re-do with oem. Some guys have used angle iron and fabbed something themselves....search and you will find answers.
edit: to your original question, the cost for fenders really depends on how far you want to go. I've looked into it as well and the lowest price I could find was $500 for both rears and some guys were like $3500. All different ways and methods for how far you wanna take it.
I'd suggest doing the lower rad support, then gut the precats, then fix the fenders.
you're going to want to get OEM nissan for that
http://nissanpartsasap.com/nissanpar...artcode=62530M
aftermarket have a bad reputation, typically have a thinner metal and fail quickly
http://nissanpartsasap.com/nissanpar...artcode=62530M
aftermarket have a bad reputation, typically have a thinner metal and fail quickly
edit: to your original question, the cost for fenders really depends on how far you want to go. I've looked into it as well and the lowest price I could find was $500 for both rears and some guys were like $3500. All different ways and methods for how far you wanna take it.
Last edited by TSelanne; 07-07-2016 at 02:35 PM.
07-07-2016, 02:34 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Its my first maxima. Gutting them and removing and reinstalling won't be an issue although could you post a link for a walkthrough? never worked on a maxima before so id just like to familiarize myself... also where can i get a set of nonfoulers and what happens when inspection time comes? they're pretty rough here in nj...
07-07-2016, 02:41 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
I have bad rear well rust just like yours (probably worse), and my lower rad support was gone. Cost $225 labor and whatever the oem part cost (can't remember now....$180?). I found the best deal on ebay.
I'd suggest doing the lower rad support, then gut the precats, then fix the fenders.
this man speaks truth, you need oem the aftermarket ones won't last - search and you'll find several threads where ppl didn't listen and they had to re-do with oem. Some guys have used angle iron and fabbed something themselves....search and you will find answers.
edit: to your original question, the cost for fenders really depends on how far you want to go. I've looked into it as well and the lowest price I could find was $500 for both rears and some guys were like $3500. All different ways and methods for how far you wanna take it.
I'd suggest doing the lower rad support, then gut the precats, then fix the fenders.
this man speaks truth, you need oem the aftermarket ones won't last - search and you'll find several threads where ppl didn't listen and they had to re-do with oem. Some guys have used angle iron and fabbed something themselves....search and you will find answers.
edit: to your original question, the cost for fenders really depends on how far you want to go. I've looked into it as well and the lowest price I could find was $500 for both rears and some guys were like $3500. All different ways and methods for how far you wanna take it.
07-07-2016, 04:42 PM
#30
Well what method for your fenders did you use? Also do I need radiator support assembly or lower rad support? I also found another maxima for sale for $600 with clean rears. It only need the rad support and probably a new engine.. He said it burns oil and smokes. Maybe I'll have better luck just buying that, swapping this engine into that and selling this one as a shell..
07-07-2016, 04:46 PM
#31
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
07-07-2016, 05:36 PM
#32
here's another thread with some pics of old and new:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...r-support.html
here's one of another creative fix:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...port-ever.html
search "radiator support" and theres plenty more threads out there on it, the 4th and 5th gen information should be similar (identical?)
07-07-2016, 05:38 PM
#33
07-08-2016, 04:14 AM
#34
op i am in PA, and gutted myself, and using O2 Sim, we are similar to NJ laws.
search around the org, there are a couple threads on the O2 sims and a how to by puppet master that i followed, there is no clear how to for the actual gutting but biggest advice is get a good powered drill (non battery) and an 18" wood drill bit, and a way to clamp / hold the precats down while you drill them.
search around the org, there are a couple threads on the O2 sims and a how to by puppet master that i followed, there is no clear how to for the actual gutting but biggest advice is get a good powered drill (non battery) and an 18" wood drill bit, and a way to clamp / hold the precats down while you drill them.
07-08-2016, 04:36 AM
#35
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 25
op i am in PA, and gutted myself, and using O2 Sim, we are similar to NJ laws.
search around the org, there are a couple threads on the O2 sims and a how to by puppet master that i followed, there is no clear how to for the actual gutting but biggest advice is get a good powered drill (non battery) and an 18" wood drill bit, and a way to clamp / hold the precats down while you drill them.
search around the org, there are a couple threads on the O2 sims and a how to by puppet master that i followed, there is no clear how to for the actual gutting but biggest advice is get a good powered drill (non battery) and an 18" wood drill bit, and a way to clamp / hold the precats down while you drill them.
07-08-2016, 08:57 AM
#36
it will not be much louder, there are 4 pieces of exhaust after the precats. pieces closer to the end will change the noise, or completely changing the precats to headers will change the noise.
fuel change? no, performance ?.... not really its negligible,
07-08-2016, 01:01 PM
#37
Well what method for your fenders did you use? Also do I need radiator support assembly or lower rad support? I also found another maxima for sale for $600 with clean rears. It only need the rad support and probably a new engine.. He said it burns oil and smokes. Maybe I'll have better luck just buying that, swapping this engine into that and selling this one as a shell..
Like others have said you probably just need the lower. That's all I did, rest was fine. Search around I posted the oem part # and link in another thread.
If your current '03 doesn't burn oil (or very little) I'd keep it and fix it instead of buying another one. Having an constant oil burner sucks. Just my humble opinion.
07-09-2016, 06:00 AM
#38
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 279
Here in Jersey they just check the OBDII connector for any codes. It must be ready, no codes and the car will pass.
As far as the cats, the daughter's with 255k miles, original cats, has the non foulers on one side and it's been good for the last 5 years, but they haven't broken up. I'd certainly let the cats be as they are unless the cat code appears then take care of the problem, but make certain that the previous owner hasn't doctored the emission system to not show any deficient cat codes.
Back to the OP question, to fix the rust on the qt's, if you can't do it yourself it will probably cost as much, if not more than the car is worth. Many years ago I cut the rust out on the P/S, welded in new pieces and low and behold, the rust has returned around the repair to the point that the metal is disintegrating, and now D/S has @ 3" diameter area.
Take a look at the rad support, and if not severely rusted will last quite a while.
As far as the cats, the daughter's with 255k miles, original cats, has the non foulers on one side and it's been good for the last 5 years, but they haven't broken up. I'd certainly let the cats be as they are unless the cat code appears then take care of the problem, but make certain that the previous owner hasn't doctored the emission system to not show any deficient cat codes.
Back to the OP question, to fix the rust on the qt's, if you can't do it yourself it will probably cost as much, if not more than the car is worth. Many years ago I cut the rust out on the P/S, welded in new pieces and low and behold, the rust has returned around the repair to the point that the metal is disintegrating, and now D/S has @ 3" diameter area.
Take a look at the rad support, and if not severely rusted will last quite a while.
07-09-2016, 10:46 AM
#39
Here in Jersey they just check the OBDII connector for any codes. It must be ready, no codes and the car will pass.
As far as the cats, the daughter's with 255k miles, original cats, has the non foulers on one side and it's been good for the last 5 years, but they haven't broken up. I'd certainly let the cats be as they are unless the cat code appears then take care of the problem, but make certain that the previous owner hasn't doctored the emission system to not show any deficient cat codes.
Back to the OP question, to fix the rust on the qt's, if you can't do it yourself it will probably cost as much, if not more than the car is worth. Many years ago I cut the rust out on the P/S, welded in new pieces and low and behold, the rust has returned around the repair to the point that the metal is disintegrating, and now D/S has @ 3" diameter area.
Take a look at the rad support, and if not severely rusted will last quite a while.
As far as the cats, the daughter's with 255k miles, original cats, has the non foulers on one side and it's been good for the last 5 years, but they haven't broken up. I'd certainly let the cats be as they are unless the cat code appears then take care of the problem, but make certain that the previous owner hasn't doctored the emission system to not show any deficient cat codes.
Back to the OP question, to fix the rust on the qt's, if you can't do it yourself it will probably cost as much, if not more than the car is worth. Many years ago I cut the rust out on the P/S, welded in new pieces and low and behold, the rust has returned around the repair to the point that the metal is disintegrating, and now D/S has @ 3" diameter area.
Take a look at the rad support, and if not severely rusted will last quite a while.
07-09-2016, 01:03 PM
#40
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 279
Just kidding, but it is possible that the core disintegrate but throw no P0420 code, but if the exhaust were to be blocked, their definitely would be a drive-ability issue and possibly another code, but not necessarily.
Let's cross that bridge when we get to it.