ktowbes

Hello, so in the pasts few weeks, I have become the proud owner of an 03 maxima SE. But unfortunately, a few days ago an issue has come up. The engine keeps dying. The first time it died, I was sitting in park at work and it just cut out- no spittereing or puttering, no noises, no reving -- the engine just turned off and all the dash lights went on. I was able to turn it off and turn it back on and it started right up! then a day later, it did it again, but this time at a stop light. Same symptoms as before, it just cut out and I was able to turn it off and start it right back up no issue, but this time, just before it cut out, the car started to feel like it was about to cut out because it would jump forward and then would be fine. It did this like 4 times before cutting out at the stop light. Then it did it again the same day, but later at night. This time I was slowly going up a hill near my house, probably like 15 mph. I was able to put it in park and turn it back over with no issue again. To me, it seems like the car almost was choked out. But it made no noise at all when it killed, it just stopped running. I am wondering if it is an issue with the MAF sensor maybe, or if maybe it is something electronic. The car did run a little over a week without any issues, but the issues started 3 days ago. The car is running normal temperatures, and seems to have no issues other than this.

Please help! This is concerning me and I'm worried about it cutting out when I am going down the highway! Thank you much!

maxiiiboy

The most frequent cause of your problem (stalling) is either a bad MAF or a fuel delivery issue (bad/weak fuel pump). There are other potential causes, such as intake/VIAS leaks, bad sensors (TPS, cam/Crank, Revolution SS) but I would start by cleaning the MAF and checking the fuel pump.

ktowbes

Hey thanks, I had to clean out the airfilter box because there was actually some baby mice inside!!! (They were relocated to a near by garbage facility) maybe I damaged the MAF sensor in the process or maybe it got dirty some how, I have a friend with a code scanner and I will have him scan to see what it says! I will post an update tonight on the issue! Thanks a bunch!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Cam sensor most likely, known problem (please search)

mclasser

+1 Cam & crank sensors are known issues on these cars. They measure the revolutions of the respective parts of the engine and when they go bad, suddenly read zero revs. This is why the engine stalls without warning.

Cleaning the MAF sensor isn't a bad idea as well. But of course, get the codes read first.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

scan for codes and then give us an update

03nissanmax

Newbie - Just Registered

Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 2
I'm not trying to jack your thread but I'm having a similar issue. Codes say the camshaft and crankshaft position sensor are bad. I looked up the crankshaft position sensor and there are 2 different ones an angled one and straight one. Which one do I choose?

Oh I have a 2003 nissan maxima 6 speed

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

You just did ...

03nissanmax

Ok thanks for the info

ktowbes

Okay sorry that it took so long to respond, its been a hell of a week. Anyways, I got the car codes scanned and the only code that came up was P1456 (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected Small Leak).

Now I am pretty sure that issue is not at all related to the engine issue. HOWEVER, the guy I bought the car from did say he just had the cam sensor replaced and even showed me the old one. I trust his word and am not thinking he tricked me at all. He DID say that I would have to adjust the timing or something like that of the sensor. Would that be enough to cause the issue?

thanks for the info!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

There's two cam sensors. Adjust timing?
And there's no guarantee that the new is even good.

Hit the junkyard, steal both sensors (might as well grab a crank and maf for funsies), swap both out and see what happens.

ktowbes

Maybe if was the crank sensor that he changed? I don't remember which it was he said. But I am 100% positive he told me that I had to time or adjust something

boostin

Been having this happen to me past 2 days, no stuttering or anything, just shutting off like you described. Turned out to be my cold air intake filter falling off which I believe must have effected the MAF (completely exposed). Hasn't happened since I secured it back on

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

There have been a few members with big holes in the intake boot. Good point, that's worth checking.

96SEmaxB

iTrader: (1)

Yup I had a massive one and didn't even know it.

ktowbes

So its been awhile since I updated so here it is:
After the initial issue happened when I posted this, it has only happened three other times. None of these have been on the road thankfully. I cleaned the MAF sensor after the second time (first two were during the same day while I was at work) and didn't have an issue with this until this morning. So that didn't fix the issue. But I just did an oil change today when I got home because mine was looking pretty dark. Idk what kind of oil the previous owner had put in, but my car is running 1000% smoother now. So I am thinking that may help maybe? ill keep updated on that as well.

Also, I invested in a more advanced scan tool and got a few more codes to pop up. ill list them here

P0011 - "intake camshaft over advanced"

P1456 - "EVAP system leak 'less than 0.020in'"

P0442 - "EVAP system leak" (why the repeat? I have no idea)

P0340 - "Camshaft position A Circuit"

I have a catback system and air intake that are coming in this weekend, so I should be able see if that has any effect on the EVAP system codes (no idea why it would, but maybe?)

And finally, I don't know if this has anything to do with the original issue, but I am noticing that if I "take off" the acceleration and shifting (AUTO trans) seem to be very leggy and slow. Its not really a new issue, but I haven't really thought of it as an issue until the other day I tried to show off, but instead got the 0-60 time clocked at over 8 seconds. I know this car is supposed to have like a 5.9sec 0-60 time if it is the manual, but I didn't think the automatic version would be 2.X seconds slower.
The only reson i mention the speed thing is that I have been researching on a bunch of different threads about advancing the timing for better acceleration and throttle response, but haven't really heard what happens if you advance too far (I was thinking perhaps it is a bell curve so if you advance too far, the acceleration and throttle response start to drop). And since I got a code that say the timing is too advanced, maybe the two issues do coincide? I'm going to track down someone with a scanner to fix the timing to 17deg and see what happens. I will keep you all updated on that!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Still waiting for you to replace the damn cam sensor with one that works.

Reallyslowrio

P0011 - Related to the cam sensor, but may be an IVT solenoid. Could also be because of low oil level. Check the oil. Replace the cam sensor since you need it anyway (P0340) and go from there.


P1456 & P0442 - Your evap solenoid is most likely bad. Behind the driver rear tire there is a charcoal canister and a little solenoid on it. The solenoid is about $40 new. Don't break the canister when removing the solenoid. (I pulled the whole canister and solenoid from a junkyard for $11. Worked great). There are also threads dedicated to cleaning the solenoid with brake clean and silicone spray if you're a cheap ***. To be certain, remove the whole setup. Put 12v to one of the pins, the other to ground. You should hear a nice "shoomp" noice when the solenoid moves the cylinder.


P0340 - this is the rear bank. I changed it in about 15 mins. Just need to remove the intake tube and you have plenty of space. Careful though as the front and rear sensors are different. It was $80 from Oreilly.


Also, stop buying mods for a car that is not running correctly. You're introducing more variables and not doing yourself any favors.

ktowbes

So I caved and bought a cam sensor. (The rear bank sensor specific). Now I'm moderately car savvy, but I am not sure exactly how to replace the sensor or how to get to it. If anyone can direct me to a video or guide as how to do it without ****ing up my car, it would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Reallyslowrio

The rear one is more complicated, but not difficult.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...an-maxima.html

There are a few youtube videos also if you're a visual person.