I've done a search but can't find anything in the forums.
Looking to install an Aux input with the factory Bose system. Has this been done?
I don't want an aftermarket stereo because I feel that it takes away from the interior look of the car.

I just bought a 20th SE 5-speed in Midnight Blue a few days ago. Got an amazing deal from this older guy. Needs struts all the way around so I think I'm just gonna pick up a set of Tein's.

Happy to be part of the Nissan Family.

 

I remember some discussions about this many years back but I don't know if anyone came up with a good solution. With so many new options for new headunits with all sorts of imputs it seems like a better idea to just replace it.

Congrats on the new purchase. These are great cars if you get a good one and keep up with it. I have two of them with well over 500,000 between them.

 

theres a writeup somewhere for one of the headunits, might be 2001+ models if i remember right. something about opening up the hu and soldering an aux cord to the tape circuit or cd changer circuit. i looked into it a while age but never did anything. have been using an old tape adapter when i need aux (most of the time)

like derrick said replacing it might be your best option. fresh aux input and bluetooth is really where its at if youre streaming on your phone

 

I tried to tape adapter but it didn't work. Would play for a few seconds then flip sides and then just spit the tape back out.

Any chance you know where I could find the wiring diagram for the unit? I'm fine with soldering one in.....as long as I know where to solder.


ALSO.......

My washer fluid light is on. When I got the car it was completely empty so I filled it up but the light didn't go out.
I doubt it....but do you have to reset that light? More likely that I just need to replace the level sensor.

 

I used a tape adaptor for a year or 2 till the car got totalled. Don't know why yours does the eject thing. It is probably bad in some way.

The washer fluid light does not have to be reset, so there is probably a problem. Check the wires that connect to the reservoir before buying the float assy, they could be broken or corroded off.

 

This guy soldered an AUX line into the HU.


I'm pretty sure they make an attachment that ties onto the antenna port in the HU.

 

Thank you, sir. I'm gonna pull it apart tomorrow and have a look see. Will take a few pics along the way.

 

I found an old thread with a good step by step guide to adding an Aux input to the factory stereo:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...aux-input.html

I think it would just be easier & more beneficial to install an aftermarket unit as others suggested.

You should definitely try another brand of tape adapter because I've been using one in my 5.5 gen for almost 4 years & it works fine. Once in a while when I first switch the radio to "Tape" there will be a squealing noise but I just switch it back to "Radio" then back to "Tape" really quick & then it's fine.

 

Aftermarket serious all look like ****.

 

Turns out this was actually pretty easy. The 2001 Bose stereo is different than the 2002 that is shown in that video. I just took out the tape deck completely and found the L & R on it's board. Then had a tape adapter and took the cord from it and soldered it in. Reattached and fed the wire through while reassembling and the cord was just long enough for me to sneak out the back of the shift boot panel so I can have my phone in the cup holder. Used the actual Tape from the tape adapter to insert into the stereo to trick it into playing from the tape deck and TA DA

Thanks for the help guys and hope this helps/inspires. Total cost was $10 for the tape adapter btw.

 

Nice rigging!

Did you gut the gears from the cassette? They're so loud and annoying.

 

Thanks man,

I actually thought about that but not until I had everything together so no, it still churns.

 

I'm going to guess the float is stuck. See if you can get something long and slender in there like a chopstick and knock it loose. Or carefully remove the tank and work it that way.

 

You MAY not want to do this -- depending on how the auto-reverse works in this particular unit, you might want both hubs spinning. Some auto-reverses trigger when the non-driving hub (supply reel) stops spinning.

When mine got noisy I opened the cassette housing and put a few dabs of white lithium grease in there and it's totally silent.

I REALLY like your idea though. I might has to try it.

 

The chop stick won't work as the neck is bent...IIRC
BUT...I can kick the sh*t out of it from the wheel well and see if that works. Taking everything off is annoying so hitting it from the side is where I'll start.

I'll make sure to take note of how many kicks it takes and how hard you have to kick to get it working again.
Maybe we can just make it a sticky so other people can use it too.

 

Nice, I'll give the lithium grease a try. You can only really hear it between tracks when the music gets quiet but it is annoying.
I'm pretty sure that you're right about not pulling the gears. I'm pretty sure that there has to be some resistance for it to work.

Thanks man, give it a try. actually really easy. About 40 screws to get there BUT once you do, it's right there. You've just gotta go digging.
The actual hardest part about all this was taking the FU^#ING vents out. Man that was in there good. The audio quality isn't perfect but it's a DECENT(not perfect) hack.

 

Noice! I think the only thing that could make that better is a bluetooth transmitter that will enable you to go wireless.

 

They make bluetooth cassette adapters, only problem is you have to charge them occasionally.

I've wondered why they can't make the motion of the casette work as a generator to charge it for bluetooth. That would be a pretty sweet solution in my mind

 

That is freaking FUNNY.

I'm buying one for sure. I have one of those stand alone blue tooth call boxes on my visor
and the aux tape adapter for music.
It's sorta a janky setup but this is going to clean **** up nice.


https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Cassett...etooth+adapter

 

The problem with the autoreverse is that it's too sensitive. A lot of (probably most) tape adapters flat out won't work, b/c it just flips back and forth ad infinitum.

 

I found an anomaly yesterday.

There seems to be some sort or interference. I'm getting a high pitch squealing sound coming through the speakers that are in sync with my revs. The higher I rev, the louder it gets.

I'm gonna have to do some thinking so before anyone goes all crazy and tries this.....HOLD OFF

I'm super busy right meow but will have it solved or broken by the end of the weekend.

 

That sounds like it is interference from the ignition coils. Did you use shielded cable for the wire you soldered in?

 

Definitely not. I literally just cut the wire off of the tape adapter and went at it. I know as much about car audio as I do on the whereabouts of the g spot.....no idea.

all jokes aside, would that be the cause? I can just grab some if that's the case, but...

I've also noticed something else. I'm using my old ****ty iphone 3g to play music from and it's always been plugged into the charger. When I unplugged it, the volume went way down and the quality was almost like only coming through on one channel. I checked with other devices....same thing.

Any thoughts on this?

 

Static, ignition noise is sometimes difficult to resolve because there can be multiple causes. here is a link that explains some of this and gives solutions.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kfoU6je...ion_guide.html

I googled "car radio static suppressor kit" and got a bunch of stuff, the above link one of them.

I don't know what to say about your phone volume. Maybe your phone charger is putting out too high a voltage?

 

I'll check out that link, thanks.

But as far as the volume thing goes......I'm such a noodlehead. I can't believe that I didn't think of this right away.
It's a grounding issue. The fact that it's being plugged into the charger just means that it's completing the ground and now sounds like it actually should.

 

Yeah, car stereo whines related to engine are always ground related that I've seen.

 

if you use a shielded cable i believe the shield in the cable should be connected to soldered to the ground.