thought I would your ideas on these and see what any can come up with:

Extended crank - this is always producible after the car has sat for a while. If you start it, shut it off, and then restart it, it will sometimes crank long, sometimes not
Intermittent RPM oscillation after start - This may be warm and cold start, but seems most common on cold start. The RPMs will oscillate between 6-700 RPMs until the car gets warm(er)
Herky-Jerky - Only when cold. Any gas pedal release is exaggerated and jerks you everywhere. Any light movement with the gas pedal while engine very cold causes this herky-jerky movement of the vehicle. Doesn't do it at all after warm.

 

You could be getting a lean fuel mixture. Check the ECTS.

 

Try running a ground wire from one of the starters bolts to the frame, i ruined 2 starters from constant cranking trying to start my car. After grounding it out i can flick my wrist and start my car cold (238,000) as if it were new.

 

Enginen coolant temp sensor? Wouldn't I be seeing some other behaviors from the gauge with this one?

 

I will check on this.

Every time I get out of the vehicle I get shocked tho - does that say anything?

 

Not necessarily. The ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) does not run the gauge in the 3.0 engine. There is a separate sensor for the dash gauge.

The ECTS is used by the ECU to determine fuel mixture. If the ECTS is bad and reporting a warmer than actual temperature to the ECU, the ECU will send a leaner fuel mixture to the cylinders. A cold engine needs a richer fuel mixture.

The easiest way to test for this is to get an OBD code reader that has live data or extended data capabilities and it can show you the temperature that the ECTS is sending to the ECU. Hook it up when the engine is cold and turn the ignition to the ON position. You don't have to start the engine if you don''t want to. The reading you get should be whatever the temperature is outside the car.

 

Crap. Don't have an OBD reader like that - will O-Reillys tell me that stuff?

 

The auto parts stores use high end readers that I'm sure they can. But a lot depends on the guy knowing how to use the meter. Besides, this check is best done with the engine cold, so driving to the parts store defeats that.

There is another way printed in the service manual. You measure the resistance of the ECTS. To locate the ECTS, follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. Maybe 2 inches after the hose ends, there are 2 sensors mounted in the metal pipe. The one closer to the hose has one wire on it and is for the temp gauge in the dash. The next one is the ECTS and has 2 wires on it.

Unplug the 2 wire connector, set you meter on the OHMs scale and touch the probes to the contacts in the ECTS, not the wire harness. The colder the temperature, the higher the ohms reading. The warmer the temperature, the lower the ohms reading.
At 32º F (0º C) the reading should be about 5K ohms.
At 45º F (10º C) the reading should be about 3.5K ohms.
At 70º F (20º C) the reading should be about 2.5K ohms.
At 100º F (40º C) the reading should be about 1K ohm.
At 140º F (60º C) the reading should be about 500 ohms.

 

time for bluetooth obd2 adapter and car gauge pro (or w/e the equivalent is if you have no ********* with an iphone).

 

Not sure where my ********* entered the equation of resolving this...but hey, I guess it's always worth mentioning.

 

Great info - I will see if I can get this tested. If there is no power going to the sensor though - how am I going to get a reading from it with the sensor unplugged? Sorry for the stupid question, but I dont do a lot of this type of testing. I do have the tool, just never really used it.

 

The sensor is a variable resistor that is temperature sensitive. The ohmmeter has a battery in it and current from the meter's battery flows through the resistor for the measuring process.

 

you get shocked my the body of the vehicle?

 

Also check the condition of the existing grounds and positive wires.

 

So, this is the second time it has done this - the first time I took into the shop and spend $350 for them to do a smoke test and tell me that the baffles on the intake hose were cracked and that was causing this. You start it, it won't idle and just dies. It sounds like it has a really bad misfire , bogs down while driving when you accelerate and then when I finally pulled into the house and turned it off, it was smoking pretty bad from the rear valve cover area. The valve cover does have a leak, but never smokes like this. I haven't tested the ECTS yet (son driving it to work and school) but I really need to figure this out so it doesn't leave his stranded. He isn't coordinated with the stick yet to drive it like this.

 

I was able to finally do this testing. After fixing all the other issues that I had on this engine, the extended crank behavior still sticks. With the temp outside at 75 degrees the Ohms on this sensor reads 2.14k - so it looks like the sensor should be good. What other issues besides fuel pressure should I look at here? I have cycled the key on/off and that does not appear to do anything before starting. I have not checked the plugs yet - could bad plugs be causing an extended crank? MAF is new, TPS is new.

 

Anyone with any ideas on this? Crank shaft sensor possibly?

 

Shot in the dark but Im dealing with an extended crank due to a camshaft sensor fault. Also causes the idle to fluctuate for a bit when first started. Im getting a code though so idk why you wouldnt if your sensors are good.

 

ah crap i could have piggy backed on to this thread.

2001 maxima crank no start, all 3 new OEM sensors, all fuses ok. cleared codes will wait to see what pops up but the only codes i did have were 02 sensor and misfire. it does miss fire when cranking at start. it will start and run fine after 3 or attempts, sometimes on first attempt (usually when warm). unless the new OEM cam sensor i just installed requires the ECU to re learn??? tends to crank right up if it's been running. I REALLY don't think it's fuel pressure. is there even a schrader valve to check up front or do I need my put my nose in to an FSM? if it's fuel pressure, you can prime it then turn off then turn on and crank and start from what i'm told. i may try this anyways,