Muskrat

Hey guys I've been quietly lurking here for the better part of a year. I've had a number of issue with my 2000 I30 that have been

(mostly) solved by doing some good research here. However I've hit a wall and am not sure what to do next.
The Problem started last August, my car started having some serious trouble after the first start of the day, until it

deteriorated to the point where i had to "warm up" the car everyday, my this point the CEL was on and it was P505 iirc, (or

something close) Idle Air Control Vavle, had a mechanic look @ it for me, filled with sludge, needed replacing, did Oil, Tranny

fluid Spark plugs rotors pads and a new idle air control valve (my car now makes a whistle sound ever since the new IACV) Sounds

like a slow tea kettle even @ idle now. During that install black gunk from the hose had built up inside the IACV and some of it

was even in the throttle body. Had my mechanic clean most of it out. That HELPED.. a bit. Was drivable faster with less warm up

time, Then i got new codes because i was revving up the car to 2-3k RPM and holding it there everyday, Catalyst Efficiency Low

(Duh, car will misfire and die if i let it idle too soon) and Left Bank 0 , 1 error LEAN (Fuel lean) At this point the hose

connecting the resonator ,MAF and intake broke, so i replaced the intake hose, clamp& the MAF and cleaned out the airbox. ( The

resonator /MAF connection seems like it isn't 100% air tight, just mostly with that plastic covering plastic with no liner or

rubber seal or anything like that) That fixed the Bank Lean codes. I then attempted the Idle Relearn i got off the forums here,

but it didn't work. I had the car warmed up, it could idle on its own (~700) checked to make sure everything was in the right

order. My mechanic adjusted the Throttle Wires manually and i pulled the Throttle position Sensor out (Car acted very confused

immediately, wasn't sure what rev range to stay in, plugged it back in, car idled fine. But next day sure enough, it won't start,

and i have to rev it between 2 & 3 k RPM for a good 5 minute 5-10 minutes before the car will idle correctly.

About my warm up procedure :
Start Car
Car will try to idle @1100 RPM and then revs tank. I will kill the car manually @ 500 RPM
Start Car again.
Rev car between 2-3k RPM (if you go over 3k RPM car will make a metal a metal scratching sound or squeal, so i NEVER go over 3k RPM while doing this)
After ~30 seconds of this car will finally hold some RPM and won't drop on its own.
With a steady foot, car will begin "learning" if im @ 2500 RPM, it will every 30 seconds or so drop RPM's, first by 1000, then like 800, 600, 500 , 400 Etc
After 2 300 RPM drops. Car will hold a single RPM. (by this time the car will settle @ 3k RPM no change in throttle , it does this itself.
I will let revs drop, it will try to idle correctly but repeatedly drop down to 500 range and whole car shakes and rattles.... then returns to ~700RPM
Putting the car in "N " for this part significantly reduces vibration.
After a minute or 2 car will idle fine
I leave for work.
The longer i let the car sit, the worse it will idle. After 6-8 hours depending on Temperature, the process will have to be repeated. (4 hours with winter)
If i'm borderline late for warming up the car, it will idle @ 1100 RPM but won't die or anything, if i drive it around 5 minutes it returnts to ~700 RPM

The only remaining CEL is Low Catalyst Efficiency... so those aren't helping. What do i do? I'm a computer electronics guy, not an automotive mechanic but while all this learning is fun, i want my car to run when i start it.

(Bonus, when i turn into a parking spot, if im going like 5 MPH on a right hander, when i get close to the max turn rate, front

left of the car makes a weird noise, like a metal knocking sound , don't feel it in steering wheel though)
I can provide a large amount of pictures or even sound/video clips if need be.

AaronL

iTrader: (1)

If it is whistling you might have a vacuum leak.

I'm confused how you've had your mechanic do some work, but the car won't idle still. Did the mechanic give it back to you and just shrug his shoulders? Maybe you need a better mechanic.

crahel

Fuel pump pressures checked yet fuel damper? Vacuum in the fuel tank maybe check it. Or maybe air temp or water temp senders failing causing overfueling. How do the spark plugs look? That metal sound on turning is the wheel turn stop, not an issue, dont turn too sharp.

Muskrat

It isn't so much that he sucks other than he has limited time to spend with me, i have limited cash and i pay him to teach me how to repair things, he's a pretty great guy, own's his own business and employs 2 other mobile mechanics. He's coming back next friday and we are going to start testing different systems, just wanted to get some input here on what to test. He always completes the repair, and there is always a noticeable improvement, but once the cars warmed and good to go, i can't tell if the issue is fixed until the next day.

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

Did you check ecm when you replaced iacv? Search p0505 on here and there are horror stories of the iacv failure frying some circuits

AaronL

iTrader: (1)

Cool - I respect that, and its great to learn how to fix your own car. Hope it's not your ECU as they are pricey.

maxiiiboy

Read the document about ECU failures (link in my signature, below).

Muskrat

We pulled it out, it looks fine, no scorching or burning smell (the only thing my car smells like is hot oil)

Muskrat

This sir, is gold. Thanks

King_Ten_Ahead

iTrader: (2)

is your ecu good?