Plea for help
03-07-2018, 06:48 PM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Just a few hints: All Maximas use "negative ground", where the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the chassis, engine, and transmission. In fact, the ground is distributed via the various harnesses to all the points shown in the diagrams on pages EL-18 to EL-22 (perhaps 10 dozen points).
To check ground distribution, you measure the resistance between the two points of interest: This resistance should be zero, or at most a small fraction of an Ohm. In practice, focus on a few selected/critical points:
- Negative terminal of the battery,
- The grounding point on the top of the engine cover, passenger side,
- Transmission and/or starter.
However, I feel quite strongly that you are again getting sidetracked. As I stated & explained in my earlier post (#69), your harness is messed up, and you need to restore it to its original/OEM state (unless you can get the documentation from the original owner). I am switching out&off until you do that.
03-11-2018, 05:33 PM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
This was from The 2001 A/T model
i wouldnt put my hand over that while the engine is on! You could **** your hand pretty bad!
Last edited by maximatech12; 03-11-2018 at 05:36 PM.
07-15-2018, 01:44 PM
#84
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 66
Solved!
Issue with the idle problem and all this crazy behavior is gone. Ended up taking it to a shop that specializes in electronic diagnostics, but they isolated the issue to a metal clip on the door jam cover that had been pressed into the wiring bundle running down the drivers side of the car. It was shorting to ground the 5v reference wire to all the sensors. When the former owner wired the stereo they must have done it and it just got worse over time and use and people getting in and out of the car.
Anyway, thiughtbyiu all would want to know. I still do have an idle issue that I will start a new thread for that has to be related to replacing the TPS and/or MAF as this idle issue was not present prior to all of this going down. If you know of anything that should be done after a new MAF or TPS let me know!!
Thanks for all the help!
Anyway, thiughtbyiu all would want to know. I still do have an idle issue that I will start a new thread for that has to be related to replacing the TPS and/or MAF as this idle issue was not present prior to all of this going down. If you know of anything that should be done after a new MAF or TPS let me know!!
Thanks for all the help!
07-18-2018, 10:48 PM
#87
If you have an idle at 600 RPM and you press the pedal and it only goes no further than 650, then the ECU is not hearing from the pedal. This was my experience when the TPS in my Quest developed cold solder joints. You replaced the TPS, so assuming that the new one was good, there is likely no connection to the ECU further up the harness, or in the ECU itself (unlikely).
But if like Wes wrote, you only go up to 2500 when in gear, that's the limp mode, and the cause would be different, like ECU not hearing from the CPS - crank or cam.
There would be codes for each after like 2-3 minutes of idling if this was a VQ engine, but I am not sure if 3.0 should throw codes as well. IMO it should, just not sure.
But if like Wes wrote, you only go up to 2500 when in gear, that's the limp mode, and the cause would be different, like ECU not hearing from the CPS - crank or cam.
There would be codes for each after like 2-3 minutes of idling if this was a VQ engine, but I am not sure if 3.0 should throw codes as well. IMO it should, just not sure.
07-19-2018, 12:46 AM
#88
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 66
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