Whostheboog

So just throwing something out here just in case it helps. The way easier to remove 5.5 gen coil connectors fit flawlessly on 5th gen 3.0 dek coils. Also 5.5 gen auto shift bezel is a great fit for 5th gen 5 speeds as a replacement. Minor modification to mount shift boot. My 2000 5 speed is rocking 2003 gle wood grain no problems and has been for a while. Seems to be alot more forgiving than previous one was...

krismax

iTrader: (15)

We need pictures please.............

Whostheboog

Also have a vias fix that is more appropriately thorough, better suited, permanent, pretty much fail proof, doesn't come in a tube, and way easier to remove should the need or want arrive than the jbweld one that has already failed me within a year probably because I messed it up somehow because I don't use jb weld. I'll have pictures later forgot to snap them yesterday. Also I'll have to take pictures of my test pipe on Glee I welded the factory Nissan cat's heat shield to jig I made slid it over the test pipe clamped it tight enough the I was able to weld the jig to itself so tight you can't even move it but it is still 2 pieces because I like options when undoing my own work if needed lol.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

what's going on with the key?

Whostheboog

Threw my 5 speed key away by accident months ago. Had a bunch of Altima and Maxima keys laying around with chips in them. I popped the chip key open and taped it with non adhesive tape to my door only key and carved to fit the same shape. When I'm done putting motor back together I'm gonna use my datascan 2 software to program the key to the car ecm. Got my Lim and uim back on as well as most vacume lines .

maximatech12

The coil connectors?

what part number is that? From what I understand the connectors are associated with families.
The spring loaded connectors look like the kostal family?

Whostheboog

Well that's where you will got. Never been much of a parts # guy for things like connectors, brackets, and anything else you can make. They came off a 2003 gle. My junyard had 1 5th gen well technically 5.5 and the let me pick it clean. Been going there my whole life so they let me make piles and then charge me $40 or $50 depending on size. The last pile before they got rid of the shell was all coils, washer reservoir, heated steering wheel, auto climate control module, dome light, wood grain shift bezel, several relays, motor mount, fog lights, a short ram cold air off a 3.5 Altima next to it (I want be installing because I keep factory air boxes but it had an plate that bolts to the maf which will come in handy for 5 speed build), gle badge, grill, hood shocks, sunroof motor. Paid $50 for all that... Look the model car up for part number I guess is my best advice it will blow your mind when you see not only does it fit but the connector does infact lock in place and is functional.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

#1 post grammar isn't that understandable regarding the coilpack connectors...But I guess you hate the connectors on the 5th Gen...I changed my Camshaft sensors connectors to plain Jane weather-pak connectors off a G35..Those green spring loaded connector buttons suck!

Whostheboog

I'm sorry about Grammer, my lack of Maxima jargon, and longer iterations. I tend to be thorough whether I'm passing info I've come to find along or reaching out for help. Although reading as a non member for a couple years and finally signing up I've pretty much learned the jargon (00vi). I've just never been a fan of using it. Frankly I also must admit my 2 5th gens are my therapy at this point. As a byproduct this forum has become a therapist so to speak. I have allowed the last few years to really take a toll on my mental and physical health. I'll spare details for once (lol). If I bother or get negative feedback for anything I write I understand I made myself susceptible to the internet and that's what happens. Basically what you did with the g35 connectors I believe is what I have done.

PhalC1

What's the big *** tachometer all about

Whostheboog

Lol well interesting you should bring it up. I've had that since my first car 87 rx7 gxl. It's made its way through a couple of my toys. When I inherited glee after driving a friend's 5.5 6mt I couldn't wait to get one. Glee was given to me out of no where and it hit me. I want a manual. I also want my auto. I researched, test drove, and haggled my way into a 2000 gxe fed spec 5 speed. Both 3.0 deks as planned. Already learned alot about them. May as well make my project car a car I'm familiar with. I respect the 3.5 guys but when renualt bought this company and pushed that over priced over hyped motor into the wards 10 all I saw was a small horsepower difference. One that I plan to make up. The tach is in there prematurely because I hate our tach being on the right, I like it, never put it in an auto, and oh yeah I'm slowly working the kinks out of the 5 speed to get ready to hand make and install a remote turbo on her. Glee is slowly being restored back to factory specs minus the headers, stereo, and other small kinks. More for preventative maintenance. The 5 speed I got for a reason boys. Didn't want to announce it yet. But hey that why that tachs there. 2 cars, 2 different build goals, same easy to find parts for cheap motors I can blow no worries, and the enjoyment of doing all the work myself. Deciding all the paths on my own. Seeking and considering the input of higher knowledge of course. I already have a massive intercooler, some odds and ends of the plumbing, a couple turbos but I'm not going to us because I want a new turbo on this car. I had a project (my rx7) blew the rear rotor (Apex seals) and got a different motor and waited for promised help for years from someone. Never happened, stuff sat, I never did anything like that and didn't know where to start, and finally just as I was going to work on gathering my stuff back together I went to our garage and it was leveled. all the snap on wrenches, sockets, specialty tools, paint booth, steel work benches, metal parts bins, my motor, and the steel beams that out garage was built with gone... Lightning strike and we sold welding supplies on the side. We had enough acetylene in that garage to melt every metal object into ash. I gave up. That person who was supposed to be teaching me had already given up anyways. I still have the 7 for another day. But I fell in love with my Maxima's and intend on seeing these out myself. Done well so far. I got that tach on eBay at 15 for $50 because of the dent in the side that doesn't affect it. That shift light has been set many times and I'm decent for self taught at banging it. I think it looks decent don't get me wrong but even 15 year old me bought it for a reason. I'm 28 and just want to do a project car for once. Just so happens I got 2...

Whostheboog

The short ram I am not using btw. My local junkyard sold it to me off a 3.5 6th gen and the reason I bought it was basically gave it to me in one of my piles and I needed the adapter plate for the aluminum tubing to MAF sensor it came with. Figured it would come in handy considering I'll be running alot of intake piping one day soon.

PhalC1

The picture with the tie rods and sway bars and end links and ****. I got a similar kit with control arms last week Waiting to install when I have 2 days off. How hard/easy is the full install of all those?

Whostheboog

Well since it wasn't the 5 speed I went cheap. So first my advice. The cheap parts are actually great. But... First gently take all dust boots off and wipe the tiny amount of cheap grease up and away. Out real grease and don't be stingy. Parts are fine. Grease is minimal and cheap that's where they bend you over. Now next if you don't have a press and honestly even if you do I'd still say buy complete control arms and you'll thank me. Silicone spray all new bushings including sway bar bushings. Those were the only 2 I didn't. Go ahead and do wheel bearings, axles (at least re boot), sway bar links, tie rod ends, and struts. Reason I say this is new and old don't mix well with these cars, you have to get an alignment every time you take this stuff apart, and it's a pain. The actual part swapping is not too bad but here's what to look out for. Disconnect your abs sensors and pull the wires through. When you pull the knuckle leave abs sensor bolted to the knuckle and be careful not to mess it up. It's almost impossible to get them apart without the bolt breaking and then either way the sensor itself will break when you pull it whether the bolt broke or not. Every part I mentioned should be changed because the old will wear the new out and the new is also very hard on the old... Also remove the caliper and bracket as a whole it's only 2 bolts. New axle shaft seals will be required as well. I pressed my own bushings, bearings, and broke my speed sensors. It was sketchy, left me feeling that I missed out on fresh new bushings because of the method required to press them. I failed to find in the massive amount of research I did before doing this job the wheel speed sensor trick. The drivers side pretty much requires the air box removed to disconnect but it's a prices of cake as well. Do all these and you will have a better time. Trust me on the complete parts. Plus the right front rear lca bushing is almost impossible to find new and than two sides are different. They're mirror images of each other. You have to buy 2 lefts press the old right out and discard the bushing, press one of the new lefts out save the shell as a spare, and press the new left into the old right shell. It's not fun. Get complete control arms... I got the inner tie rod tool I used from Auto zone for like $20 and it helped alot. I'll put a picture of it with this reply.

Whostheboog

Oh yeah almost forgot... The sway bar links are probably not going to come off as they should. I had wrenches on both sides of the bar where the stud from the link goes through and nope. Save yourself the trouble and use a cutting disk, reciprocating saw, Dremel, torch if very careful busy still wouldn't recommend, or a hacksaw which I also wouldn't advise unless last resort for a different reason. They're hardened and it will be annoying. I also sanded and high temp flat black rattle canned (it was the cheapest color high temp) the knuckle, calipers, caliper brackets, disk brake where the well presses against as well as the hub side, lca (because I reused them), and silicone sprayed all new bushings, old ones, body mount bushings, e brake mechanism as well as sprayed down in the ebrake cable from the bracket entry point (had to pull the little boot back), all rear suspension bushings, motor mounts, trans mount, door brackets, door slider mechanism whatever you call it, hood latch mechanism, and made sure nothing else that I already had easier access to was in need the entire process through the job. The same can be said with any vehicle of course. But our beloved 5th gens were engineered very carefully to be serviced by Nissan techs with their specialty tools, certain parts aren't meant to be carefully removed by design so are as I figure just replaced if even touched by them, and not meant to be on the road anymore anyways. Sucks to admit but these cars are a prime example of 1st owner wonders. It wasn't too bad a job. Spray penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts the day before and again right before tackling and it will help. Don't forget abs sensor trick. Remove the splash shields also. When working on these cars if it seems in the way it is. You spend so much less time removing whatever obstruction and reassembling later than trying to work around it. Pretty much every instance with these things. It may seem sometimes like the inconvenience is too great but seeing the damage that can happen, money, time, and sanity all wasted when more than likely you'll still end up having to remove the obstruction anyways.