I have a minor leak from the valve cover. Its not bad enough that I have to add extra oil every thousands of miles, but its slowly getting into my plugs. I now use 5-30 Royal purple which didn't show any performance perks for upgrading from penzoil synthetic. I have read in some places to just use a heavier weight, but also read against it due to shortening the engine life. I am thinking of switching to Red Line esther based synthetic oil, though I have to order it "50$" Any suggestions on oil brands or additives when dealing with minor leaks? Thanks

 

Just fix the leak and run whatever your heart desires.

Vc leaks are relatively easy to fix

 

Thanks, But I was told to remove the intake plenum was easy. But was not at all. Replacing the coil was very easy. Would hate to do that again to replace something harder than a coil. Mechanics in my area charge more than the value of my car for that job. So at this point Id rather change my oil to something that would lesson or get rid of the leak.

 

Removing IM is easy... It's a 10 min job to completely remove it the 2nd time, b/c the 1st time you throw away the rear brackets (still easy with them on). For coils you don't even have to unhook everything, just flip it backwards.

Your mechanics are scam artists.

You cannot fix a VC leak with anything other than a new gasket or a lot of RTV lol

 

I'm a novice to these cars. to me they are alot harder to work on. Much different from my old v8 northstar engine, the front and back coils, plugs and covers were a lot easier to access. Ive noticed so far that Nissan/Infinity brakes are easier to install. The mechanics wanted 450 for back coils changed and thousands for valve covers. I figured I couldn't completely fix it with a different oil or a leak fix additive, I'm just looking to slow it down as much as possible I don't think I want to put a fix additive in my car. I was thinking more of a stabilizer or engine lubricant, if not just a different kind of oil.

 

That's b/c it FWD vs RWD. You have full access to everything on a RWD nissan.

Nothing will work. The rubber is really dried out and has shrunk. It really is simple to do, though.

And if you haven't seen a thread about it... search precat failure or you'll need a new car, soon.

 

Heavy oil will not do much for a VC leak. It will help if it's burning oil and maybe with leaky main seals but not the VC.

Save money by ditching the Purple and use MobileOne 15,000 Mile synthetic.
I've used it to get to 300,000 miles on my 00 with 15,000 mile intervals and it still doesn't burn any oil.
260,000 on my 02 with 10,000 intervals.
Put the savings towards the VC repair.

Another thing to consider. The oil leaking out will quickly destroy any rubber suspension pieces it comes in contact with. It starts with the rear motor mount but can spread to other parts of the suspension. This can get expensive if you don't handle it soon.

If you post your location you might find an Org member to help with the repair for a good price.

 

 

I completely agree. This is an easy job and I'm new to working on these Maxima's myself. The first one I bought off the lot I didn't work on it. I would change it for $150. Thousands is a straight rip off. My Nissan dealer was only like 450. The gaskets and everything is only like $60 from Nissan.

 

I have yet to tackle this job....but it seems a whole lot easier than replacing the alternator, and drive belts. I just did it a few months ago... That was a PITA. I can't imagine working on the top of the motor to be more difficult than that. The only real part I'm worried about is cleaning the throttle body without triggering a CEL.

 

Trust Me I watched a video of someone replacing the rear valve cover, and it looked like a big mess, this guy was sweating bullets.. Another thing I hate is the sensitive throttle body, I regularly cleaned my gm V8 several different ways while it was still attached, but when I look for instructions on a vq35 , I find warnings against doing it, some people say just leave it alone, But most people were complaining that the car wouldn't idle correctly after cleaning it.. I don't know what type of Nissan's everyone else has, but removing the upper intake plenum is NOT easy. The only reason mine was removed was because of a dead coil, and the only reason I will ever remove it again would be for a reason that's stopping the car from driving.

 

I see. Mobile one is esther based as well right?, my car definately isnt burning oil, after 4k the oil is the same color as when i put it in, plus to be safe I added an extra quart at around 2k but it went over the line. It's a strange leak, I can only mostly smell it when I raise the hood. Id probably just stick with the oil change than replacing the covers, its over priced here in so cal, and I dont have a proper place to do that, it definitely takes longer than changing the back coils

 

Wow, Im starting to think maybe infiniti has different torque or they made it more difficult to remove purposely or something, because mine takes much longer. I didn't think an additive would work. Looks like ill just try a different oil

 

 

The cars are the same under the hood other than the plastic engine cover.
It's just a matter of different skill sets, having tools and a place to work.
Not everyone is going to work on their cars at the same level.

What gets a lot of people is the bracket on the back of the intake plenum. You can't see it and it's hard to get a tool on the bolts. Most of us just discard the entire bracket the 1st time we have it apart.

The TB is fine as long as you don't poke at the butterfly valve.

 

On the 5.5's, can't we just take a clean rag soaked in a little bit of carb cleaner and wipe the inner side of the butterfly valve? I read some thread here to wipe it, but dry wiping doesn't sound like doing much. If my TB is coming off for rear plugs, coils, or VC's , then I'm sure as hell going to want to clean the other side of that flapper. I'm scared that I'd OD on my Xanax if I saw the CEL illuminate over something so benign and routine as this.

 

02InfinitiI35,
The folks here have provided some good advice. With some research on this forum and the proper tools this job is can be tackled in a couple of hours. I completed the job last year on my 02 Maxima. There are some great resources on this site. My video here provides an overview of the plenum removal and some links to some great videos of dial2fast performing the valve cover job in detail on a Quest with the vq35de.

 

2 hrs...

 

After much trepidation, I decided to clean my TB a few months back. I followed the advice on here of putting a brick on the gas pedal with the key in ACC mode and shifter in drive (and e-brake on). With the servomotor opening the butterfly valve, I carefully used a rag wet with CRC TB cleaner to wipe the gunk off the TB itself. I didn't touch the valve at all since that's what creates problems. No CEL and my idle's ~850 RPM now because the TB's breathing better. The car runs fine so I haven't bothered doing a relearn.

 

Just don't manually move the butterfly.

You can get a couple cans of brake parts cleaner and spray it off with that.

 

Don't forget the FSM has pictures and instructions that should make it that much more simple

 

Yes 10-15 for the manifold to come off...ONLY IF those 2 rear bolts holding the IM originally from factory are already off and thrown out as far as possibly from your maxima... otherwise it can take really long tryna get your hands or guess where to ratchet it. Especially frustrating for a first timer cause it's against the firewall in the middle. If you're not swift your back may start to ache and u may be getting super cheesed a d start wanting to give up lol

long story short replace it if u have a whole weekend. Review lots of YouTube videos it makes sense

 

so just to recap, didn't really want to hijack this thread..(sorry OP) You're saying that I CAN spray the valve flapper with carb cleaner (or brake parts cleaner?) But avoid touching it or applying any pressure that would misalign it and cause a CEL, correct? Does the direction of the spray matter (Spray from snorkel side or from plenum side)? Should it also air dry for some time to avoid any residual fumes from fouling up any touchy-feely internal sensors?

 

Yes, spray it from any side. No need to let it dry. It evaporates very quickly. There's nothing, other than maybe paint, that the brake cleaner will damage.

Make sure you wear eye protection with brake cleaner. It can shoot back into your eyes when spraying something like a TB. It's not the end of the world but it's painful. Gloves are also nice since it can dry the skin over time.

 

No your fine, I'm still learning as well.. It's My first I-35. so far As I can see were not allowed to open the valve manually.. Just compress the peddle without touching the valve.. Btw what were the signs that your alternator was going bad? Today my battery and brake light came on at the same time in traffic, I had my AC on high.. I'm afraid it may be the alternator.

 

Thanks, I knew they were the same, just didn't understand how it can be completely removed in 15 mins, my skill level requires longer than that. Plus now Its another worry since my battery and brake light came on at the same time today

 

No, My V8 was front wheel drive...

 

Let me guess... OHV piece of crap GM? Totally different design if so, plus, V8 IMs are typically down the center.
Idk who else put V8 in a fwd car recently.

 

Yes, alternator on it's way out for sure. Pretty soon it'll stall in traffic... get it fixed ASAP. I just had my existing one rebuilt for around $70. I would not take chances on a used one from a yard, unless you want to get it refurb'ed too. Not impossible, but It's quite an ordeal, to replace it, plan on at least one full day. You may as well replace the drive belts while you're there, unless you're sure they are not cracked.

 

That "piece of crap GM" drove like a cloud, and came with more features like voltage, tire and oil pressure monitors.