Brake and Battery light on at the same time.
#1
Brake and Battery light on at the same time.
As I was driving today, Shortly after turning on the AC both lights illuminated. They went away after I turned off the AC, but I had to turn it back on which caused the same lights again, but this time it didn't turn back off after i got closer to home and turned the ac off. I was reading this could be an alternator problem, but I have No loss of power, plus driven two trips since. I disconnected the neg battery cable a few weeks ago to remove a coil, Could it just be that i left the negative cable loose? Thanks
#2
It could be a loose battery terminal. Is your battery cable loose?
Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
#3
It could be a loose battery terminal. Is your battery cable loose?
Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
Come to think of it, on the freeway I ran over something, and I think it may have come from underneath my car since I didn't see anything prior to running over it. it might have dropped something rubbery out. I wouldn't think it would drop a belt since its all one on an I-35 and maxima right?
#4
Sounds like you found your problem. However, anyone else reading this thread with this problem could have a dying alternator/voltage regulator. When my alternator died,it was putting out 18+ volts and even though the car would start, there was no throttle response or SES light.
Some good info in this thread.
Some good info in this thread.
#5
Yes it was loose, I could move it all the way around, I was too concerned with the coil to even remember to tighten it, Hopefully this didn't kill my alternator.
Come to think of it, on the freeway I ran over something, and I think it may have come from underneath my car since I didn't see anything prior to running over it. it might have dropped something rubbery out. I wouldn't think it would drop a belt since its all one on an I-35 and maxima right?
Come to think of it, on the freeway I ran over something, and I think it may have come from underneath my car since I didn't see anything prior to running over it. it might have dropped something rubbery out. I wouldn't think it would drop a belt since its all one on an I-35 and maxima right?
You should be able to look and see if the belt is there. You'd have no AC if you dropped the belt. Power steering is on its own belt.
#6
Oh I see, My steering and air worked fine, so maybe a small piece of it fell off? Also I can remember for years since I had this car, every time I turned sharp my car would loose a little power along with the headlights going dim
Last edited by 02Infinitii35; 04-07-2018 at 01:44 PM.
#7
Sounds like you found your problem. However, anyone else reading this thread with this problem could have a dying alternator/voltage regulator. When my alternator died,it was putting out 18+ volts and even though the car would start, there was no throttle response or SES light.
Some good info in this thread.
Some good info in this thread.
#9
The valve cover obviously needs replacing, but the alternator is not obvious which is why Im currently trouble shooting, It's not smart to just replace something like that before making sure its the problem.
#10
You want ultra easy fixes. There are none, it's an old car.
#11
It's a couple minutes to check the wires/connections at the alty/batt/chassis, measure voltage and obviously look at the belt. Unless you find that something is severely corroded or broken, then the alty is bad. The cars are old and even though the japanese parts are high quality, they will eventually fail.
You want ultra easy fixes. There are none, it's an old car.
You want ultra easy fixes. There are none, it's an old car.
#12
Take it to AutoZone and they will load test the charging system. Should determine your alternator is bad.....AND...your symptoms show it to be bad, regardless that the lights went back off.
If you don't hustle on this you will also ruin and get to replace the battery, too.
I've pulled mine twice and had it repaired locally. No fun but it is a car.
If you don't hustle on this you will also ruin and get to replace the battery, too.
I've pulled mine twice and had it repaired locally. No fun but it is a car.
#13
It's very common for the VRM to intermittently go wonky while it's failing. It's either under/overvolting. Measure it when the lights come back and you'll see.
#14
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile
Last edited by 02Infinitii35; 04-09-2018 at 01:38 PM.
#15
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it warm or after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile
Mine is a 2000 so no drive by wire concerns so be mindful if you have that design.
Last edited by MichMaxFan; 04-09-2018 at 01:29 PM.
#16
I see. My car idles just fine, especially when its warm, Its just that when i start it with the temperature gage at the norm, it seems as if the voltage drops almost killing the start
#17
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile
#18
#19
You can replace just the VC gasket. The tube seals will eventually leak, but that's why I just use RTV on them. Everyone's a *****, but they can also be cut out and replaced.
#20
The tube seals are leaking as well, I found oil in the plugs, So I may need to change the whole cover. Id rather just do the gasket since is so much cheaper
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