03 I35...Worth The Hassle?
#1
03 I35...Worth The Hassle?
Interested in buying an '03 Infiniti I35 w/90k.
Been reading about all the problems with fried ECU's, bad IACV valves, & timing chain guides. Is it worth the hassle?
-During a test drive, the transmission randomly slipped a few times for a few split seconds. Not sure if its a fluid issue or something more serious.
Overall, car looks good, $2000 was the lowest I could get them down.
Thoughts?
Been reading about all the problems with fried ECU's, bad IACV valves, & timing chain guides. Is it worth the hassle?
-During a test drive, the transmission randomly slipped a few times for a few split seconds. Not sure if its a fluid issue or something more serious.
Overall, car looks good, $2000 was the lowest I could get them down.
Thoughts?
#2
They're very good cars over all. The IACV and ECU issues were on the 3.0 cars. The 3.5 doesn't use an IACV at all.
The timing chain issues are on the 6th gen maxima when they changed the guides. The VQ engine up to 04 is bulletproof when it comes to timing chain/guides.
The 3.5 can have oil burning issues. That's about the only thing I'd research. You can find a bunch of info on it on this site. At 90k you may still be able to prevent it.
The timing chain issues are on the 6th gen maxima when they changed the guides. The VQ engine up to 04 is bulletproof when it comes to timing chain/guides.
The 3.5 can have oil burning issues. That's about the only thing I'd research. You can find a bunch of info on it on this site. At 90k you may still be able to prevent it.
#5
The 3.5 uses a drive by wire throttle body which is fully controlled by the ECU. No throttle cable at all. It's a pretty solid system for the most part. I had to replace the throttle body somewhere around 200,000 miles. Not too big of a deal. It also doesn't like the have the butterfly valve messed with so no manual cleaning even if it's unplugged.
#7
I bought my maxima 2002 SE Automatic with 104,000 miles on it on 2013. The first thing I noticed is slipping of transmission. Totally fix it by dropping the transmission pan, spray contact cleaner to the solenoid loaded with sludge. Replaced transmission oil with AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid, since then up to this date the ATF is still Blood red in color.
#9
#10
There's a guy who does manual swaps,you can find him on youtube.
or if your inclined to do so so it yourself. lol
2k isnt bad for 90k mile car. Hows the rest of the car?
I mean any used car,even Toyotas are going to have their problems ,whether timing chain guide issues or whatever. Hell beats 16k and up on a new car any day IMO.
or if your inclined to do so so it yourself. lol
2k isnt bad for 90k mile car. Hows the rest of the car?
I mean any used car,even Toyotas are going to have their problems ,whether timing chain guide issues or whatever. Hell beats 16k and up on a new car any day IMO.
#14
A lot of people say the pre-cats break down and suck abrasive material into the engine. I'm inclined to believe that since I removed the pre-cats around 90,000 and I burn very little oil even after 235,000 miles.
#15
Most of the time people have oil leaks there are many places on this engine where over time oil can leak, some of the engines burn oil. But best thing to do if you are going to buy the car is to check the oil everyday or every other day. Keep in mind that once you start the car you have to wait at least 20 mins before you can pull the oil stick and get an accurate reading.
#16
Good advice. Also check both power steering hoses (pressure/return). Any small leak drips onto the front lower control arm bushing and ruins it. You then end up with front end "clunks" and alignment/steering issues.
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