Hey all,
I'm going to replace the drivers side wheel bearing and hub assembly. But here's my question. Do I need an alignment after I take off the knuckle? I can remove the bearing from the knuckle and press it back in while its still on the knuckle, but it would be easier to take the entire thing out.

The only reason why I'm asking back in the day, when I did my struts on another car (Pontiac), when I took out the strut bolts is moved the camber drastically.

Thank you!

 

Yes, you will need alignment if you unbolt the knuckle. If you separate the ball joint, remove the axle from the knuckle, you can press the bearing in/out with the right tool. I've done it a couple times borrowing a tool in order to keep my alignment. It is harder to do it in the car but not by much with the right tool.

 

It's not going to change toe, so why bother? That's the only thing that can be adjusted. It's a waste of money.

 

The play in the knuckle bolt holes and the how the strut tightens up on the knuckle can change toe and camber. FWIW, I've actually done alignments.

 

I ought so. I also worked in an alignment shop many years ago but forgot. But I remember doing the alignment on my car after replacing just the struts.

I do have tool to press the bearing in and out while on the knuckle though. Just would be easier to take out the knuckle and press it out and in while its out.

 

Unless you can put everything back together and keep the geometry the same, alignment isn't a bad idea.

 

Except it still doesn't matter. I've driven for many thousands of miles personally (and others that I maintain) with no difference. They still drive straight and tires wear completely even. Not that there's much play for camber, but that can be made exact by lining it up with the outlines of where the nuts were. I can replace the entire knuckle, switch to coilovers, etc, it doesn't matter (I have completely shot arms on one car and wearing is still even). If I don't replace the control arms and the car is aligned well, then it's not getting done. ****'s not cheap if you haven't already got the "warranty". Hell, if you take the time you can replace tie rods and get the alignment back dead nuts.

 

I had to take the entire knuckle out. Who know those stupid retaining clips were a *****..and on BOTH sides?!? Any easy way to take them out? Me and my dad almost had a heart attack taking those things out.

 

I just failed NH inspection for a bad drivers side wheel bearing. I lifted the car, shook and turned the wheel, can't find any play or rattles. The grinding is rusty rotors because the car sat for 3 years in the mud. Wondering what your symptoms were.

 

I replaced my hub assembly. Removed tie rod and ball joint on lower ctrl arm to do it. Camber Hella off. What bolts do I need to adjust to fix it?

 

Camber changes would have been the amplified by the slight amount of slack in the two lower strut bolts which fasten the knuckle. Pushing the top of the knuckle inward, or pulling outward while the bolts are in place but not torqued will result in a slight, yet notable camber change. I have played with this on mine. Beyond that, there is no official camber adjustment on these cars.

 

Shock mount bolts. Did you tighten everything up while the car was still in the air?

 

FWIW camber changes toe also.

Everything I said above is accurate and this thread shows it.