Was not shifting into 2nd gear, high rpm - 2k auto
11-20-2006, 10:42 PM
#1
Was not shifting into 2nd gear, high rpm - 2k auto
Ok guys, i need your help!
Driving on the street to work in the morning and the car was driving like it had the hand brake on or something. Went to the freeway and the car was around 25 to 35 mph at 4500 to 5000 rpm. I pushed the gas to accelerate but the car would not get any faster and the rpm's would increase. It looked like it was stuck on first gear (automatic car). I pulled over and put it in park. The car was idle in park on the side of the freeway and the engine shut off on me.
I did not try to start the car again and towed my car to my mechanic. He said it started and drove fine. It did not throw any codes. I think he said he cleaned the MAF and changed the idle speed of the car. Now, when i drive the car it shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm's and drives pretty slow. Would this be caused by changing the idle speed? I believe this is a sign of a bad MAF sensor or maybe even the whole MAF assembly? Is the car in fail safe mode? I tried to figure it out by reading the forum but need some help.
THANKS!
Driving on the street to work in the morning and the car was driving like it had the hand brake on or something. Went to the freeway and the car was around 25 to 35 mph at 4500 to 5000 rpm. I pushed the gas to accelerate but the car would not get any faster and the rpm's would increase. It looked like it was stuck on first gear (automatic car). I pulled over and put it in park. The car was idle in park on the side of the freeway and the engine shut off on me.
I did not try to start the car again and towed my car to my mechanic. He said it started and drove fine. It did not throw any codes. I think he said he cleaned the MAF and changed the idle speed of the car. Now, when i drive the car it shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm's and drives pretty slow. Would this be caused by changing the idle speed? I believe this is a sign of a bad MAF sensor or maybe even the whole MAF assembly? Is the car in fail safe mode? I tried to figure it out by reading the forum but need some help.
THANKS!
11-21-2006, 07:38 AM
#2
Yeah, I can almost bet your car is in "fail safe" mode. (Meaning it only loads basic drivers and services 
nerd joke) Anyways, sometimes when the MAF goes the car will not tell you that it has taken a ****. When my MAF died it felt like my transmission was slipping too, it also drove like a brick. After I got the MAF replaced it felt like a brand new car. Before you replace the MAF do an old fashioned Sea Foam treatment.
nerd joke) Anyways, sometimes when the MAF goes the car will not tell you that it has taken a ****. When my MAF died it felt like my transmission was slipping too, it also drove like a brick. After I got the MAF replaced it felt like a brand new car. Before you replace the MAF do an old fashioned Sea Foam treatment.
11-21-2006, 11:55 PM
#4
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 94
sounds like your tranny needs to have it's solenoid module (or something along those lines) replaced.
This is a common problem, well documented. There is a TSB out as well.
good luck.
also avoid taking the car to the dealership as they tend to like to bend you over.
This is a common problem, well documented. There is a TSB out as well.
good luck.
also avoid taking the car to the dealership as they tend to like to bend you over.
11-22-2006, 08:39 AM
#5
Originally Posted by alpinestars™
Yeah, I can almost bet your car is in "fail safe" mode. (Meaning it only loads basic drivers and services nerd joke) Anyways, sometimes when the MAF goes the car will not tell you that it has taken a ****. When my MAF died it felt like my transmission was slipping too, it also drove like a brick. After I got the MAF replaced it felt like a brand new car. Before you replace the MAF do an old fashioned Sea Foam treatment.
nerd joke) Anyways, sometimes when the MAF goes the car will not tell you that it has taken a ****. When my MAF died it felt like my transmission was slipping too, it also drove like a brick. After I got the MAF replaced it felt like a brand new car. Before you replace the MAF do an old fashioned Sea Foam treatment.SAME PROBLEM.... definately get a new MAF from Dave B..... My brother had the same problem; then I did! Never a code thrown, mine is a 5spd but the auto also had very poor acceleration, step on the gas and it would rev high and not pull, you can message the throttle to accelerate very slowly but shifting is a problem... feels like a tranny problem, sounds like one, but it is your MAF!!!
Edit: alpinestars... classic.. LOL
11-22-2006, 08:56 AM
#6
thanks guys. i will now be bending over for the stealership. My mechanic couldn't figure out what was going on so I don't want to waste anymore of my time. i'll let you know how far they want me to bend over.
Later
Later
11-22-2006, 08:26 PM
#8
For $100 and 20 min of work you can replace the MAF. The stealership will charge you $100 just to look at it. I replaced my MAF because my car had no power after 4,000 RPM and it wouldn't shift unless I let off the gas. New MAF cured both of those problems. A new MAF might be the best hp/$ mod you can get!
I doubt it's the Cat (for the simple reason that 5th generations are notorious for throwing Cat codes when the car is running perfectly fine. If anythig they are too aggressive when it comes to throwing Cat codes. Search any one of the million threads on P0420 and P0430. It would be throwing a code if it were the Cat.)
I doubt it's the Cat (for the simple reason that 5th generations are notorious for throwing Cat codes when the car is running perfectly fine. If anythig they are too aggressive when it comes to throwing Cat codes. Search any one of the million threads on P0420 and P0430. It would be throwing a code if it were the Cat.)
11-23-2006, 02:31 AM
#9
Ok, i went to the stealership today and spent $100 for diagnostics. The verdict was that the problem was not able to be reproduced. YOU HAVE GOT TO BE FREAKING KIDDING ME!! The scanner did not pick up any codes. They told that I had aftermarket spark pluggs (platinum) and air filter which may be causing the loss of power. They also said my transmission oil was 1/2 quart low and that I needed to change my brakes. I was like b.s...that can't be it.
We both took the car for a test drive and I tried to explain that the car did not drive like this before the incident last week and that it felt like I was driving a sentra. I really needed to push the pedal to get it to 65-70mph. It drives like its struggling and has seems loud now. It also stays around 2000 rpms. He also told me that my car was knocking when accelerating at times. He told me it could be a number of things that could be causing this lack of power/weird rev problem.
-tune up
-timing chain (I'm at 107k)
He also told me I may want to do a block engine test and see if my engine is not leaking air or something. not sure if this guy was up to speed on Maxima issues. I asked him about the solenoid and MAF and he said that may be a possibility but can't be for sure unless it throws a MIL code.
What DO YOU GUYS suggest I do now? I am seriously thinking about dumping the car and cutting my losses. I don't want to spend 1500 to 2000 to TRY to fix the problem and might not even fix it. Should i try to change the MAF anyway? What about the timing chain, would that be causing this type of behavior?
We both took the car for a test drive and I tried to explain that the car did not drive like this before the incident last week and that it felt like I was driving a sentra. I really needed to push the pedal to get it to 65-70mph. It drives like its struggling and has seems loud now. It also stays around 2000 rpms. He also told me that my car was knocking when accelerating at times. He told me it could be a number of things that could be causing this lack of power/weird rev problem.
-tune up
-timing chain (I'm at 107k)
He also told me I may want to do a block engine test and see if my engine is not leaking air or something. not sure if this guy was up to speed on Maxima issues. I asked him about the solenoid and MAF and he said that may be a possibility but can't be for sure unless it throws a MIL code.
What DO YOU GUYS suggest I do now? I am seriously thinking about dumping the car and cutting my losses. I don't want to spend 1500 to 2000 to TRY to fix the problem and might not even fix it. Should i try to change the MAF anyway? What about the timing chain, would that be causing this type of behavior?
11-23-2006, 03:12 AM
#10
Originally Posted by FusionAcid
Ok, i went to the stealership today and spent $100 for diagnostics. The verdict was that the problem was not able to be reproduced. YOU HAVE GOT TO BE FREAKING KIDDING ME!! The scanner did not pick up any codes. They told that I had aftermarket spark pluggs (platinum) and air filter which may be causing the loss of power. They also said my transmission oil was 1/2 quart low and that I needed to change my brakes. I was like b.s...that can't be it.
We both took the car for a test drive and I tried to explain that the car did not drive like this before the incident last week and that it felt like I was driving a sentra. I really needed to push the pedal to get it to 65-70mph. It drives like its struggling and has seems loud now. It also stays around 2000 rpms. He also told me that my car was knocking when accelerating at times. He told me it could be a number of things that could be causing this lack of power/weird rev problem.
-tune up
-timing chain (I'm at 107k)
He also told me I may want to do a block engine test and see if my engine is not leaking air or something. not sure if this guy was up to speed on Maxima issues. I asked him about the solenoid and MAF and he said that may be a possibility but can't be for sure unless it throws a MIL code.
What DO YOU GUYS suggest I do now? I am seriously thinking about dumping the car and cutting my losses. I don't want to spend 1500 to 2000 to TRY to fix the problem and might not even fix it. Should i try to change the MAF anyway? What about the timing chain, would that be causing this type of behavior?
We both took the car for a test drive and I tried to explain that the car did not drive like this before the incident last week and that it felt like I was driving a sentra. I really needed to push the pedal to get it to 65-70mph. It drives like its struggling and has seems loud now. It also stays around 2000 rpms. He also told me that my car was knocking when accelerating at times. He told me it could be a number of things that could be causing this lack of power/weird rev problem.
-tune up
-timing chain (I'm at 107k)
He also told me I may want to do a block engine test and see if my engine is not leaking air or something. not sure if this guy was up to speed on Maxima issues. I asked him about the solenoid and MAF and he said that may be a possibility but can't be for sure unless it throws a MIL code.
What DO YOU GUYS suggest I do now? I am seriously thinking about dumping the car and cutting my losses. I don't want to spend 1500 to 2000 to TRY to fix the problem and might not even fix it. Should i try to change the MAF anyway? What about the timing chain, would that be causing this type of behavior?
11-23-2006, 03:22 AM
#11
Just another thought, the original coils on these cars are garbage. If they have not been changed yet, I would look in to doing this next. If they do not have a grey dot on them then they will need to be replaced at some point.
11-23-2006, 06:37 AM
#12
As stated earlier Fusion from the word of gods here listen to us.... for 100 dollars man, you will know for sure... we already DO!!!
Originally Posted by StillenMax80x20
SAME PROBLEM.... definitely get a new MAF from Dave B..... My brother had the same problem, Never a code thrown, auto also had very poor acceleration, step on the gas and it would rev high and not pull. You can message the throttle to accelerate very slowly but shifting is a problem... feels like a tranny problem, sounds like one, but it is your MAF!!!
Originally Posted by Cdoc
For $100 and 20 min of work you can replace the MAF. The stealership will charge you $100 just to look at it. I replaced my MAF because my car had no power after 4,000 RPM and it wouldn't shift unless I let off the gas. New MAF cured both of those problems. A new MAF might be the best hp/$ mod you can get!
I doubt it's the Cat (for the simple reason that 5th generations are notorious for throwing Cat codes when the car is running perfectly fine. If anythig they are too aggressive when it comes to throwing Cat codes. Search any one of the million threads on P0420 and P0430. It would be throwing a code if it were the Cat.)
I doubt it's the Cat (for the simple reason that 5th generations are notorious for throwing Cat codes when the car is running perfectly fine. If anythig they are too aggressive when it comes to throwing Cat codes. Search any one of the million threads on P0420 and P0430. It would be throwing a code if it were the Cat.)
11-23-2006, 07:03 PM
#13
Ok thanks for the advise. I hope this works! i will be changing the MAF with the 2001 even though my car is 2000. You sure about this right? 
Noobie questions: -I only need to change the MAF sensor right? There is nothing else I need to get other than that? What should I be exactly ordering? I won't be doing it myself, I will let my usual mechanic handle it.
-Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed or anything?
-Anything else I need to do before/after a MAF replacement other than maybe a sea foam treatment?
------------------------------------------------------
I replaced all 6 ignition coils with the updated ones about 1.5 years ago. There was a code thrown about misfiring in bank 1 & 3 or something so I changed all 6.
My car does not rev high now but shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm. I noticed that when I put it in drive "2" it shifts at around 4000 rpm. Either way it's driving like a brick and struggling to accelerate. My car is even at 2000 rpm at 65 to 70mph and looks like its on a limit.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
Noobie questions: -I only need to change the MAF sensor right? There is nothing else I need to get other than that? What should I be exactly ordering? I won't be doing it myself, I will let my usual mechanic handle it.
-Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed or anything?
-Anything else I need to do before/after a MAF replacement other than maybe a sea foam treatment?
------------------------------------------------------
I replaced all 6 ignition coils with the updated ones about 1.5 years ago. There was a code thrown about misfiring in bank 1 & 3 or something so I changed all 6.
My car does not rev high now but shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm. I noticed that when I put it in drive "2" it shifts at around 4000 rpm. Either way it's driving like a brick and struggling to accelerate. My car is even at 2000 rpm at 65 to 70mph and looks like its on a limit.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
11-23-2006, 07:16 PM
#14
Originally Posted by FusionAcid
Ok thanks for the advise. I hope this works! i will be changing the MAF with the 2001 even though my car is 2000. You sure about this right?
Noobie questions: -I only need to change the MAF sensor right? There is nothing else I need to get other than that? What should I be exactly ordering? I won't be doing it myself, I will let my usual mechanic handle it.
-Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed or anything?
-Anything else I need to do before/after a MAF replacement other than maybe a sea foam treatment?
------------------------------------------------------
I replaced all 6 ignition coils with the updated ones about 1.5 years ago. There was a code thrown about misfiring in bank 1 & 3 or something so I changed all 6.
My car does not rev high now but shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm. I noticed that when I put it in drive "2" it shifts at around 4000 rpm. Either way it's driving like a brick and struggling to accelerate. My car is even at 2000 rpm at 65 to 70mph and looks like its on a limit.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
Noobie questions: -I only need to change the MAF sensor right? There is nothing else I need to get other than that? What should I be exactly ordering? I won't be doing it myself, I will let my usual mechanic handle it.
-Do I need to get my ECU reprogrammed or anything?
-Anything else I need to do before/after a MAF replacement other than maybe a sea foam treatment?
------------------------------------------------------
I replaced all 6 ignition coils with the updated ones about 1.5 years ago. There was a code thrown about misfiring in bank 1 & 3 or something so I changed all 6.
My car does not rev high now but shifts at 2000 to 2500 rpm. I noticed that when I put it in drive "2" it shifts at around 4000 rpm. Either way it's driving like a brick and struggling to accelerate. My car is even at 2000 rpm at 65 to 70mph and looks like its on a limit.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!
11-23-2006, 08:12 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Kevon1
:No not sure at all. Go back to the dealer & demand they do another diagnostic procedure on the car. Tell them this time you want 10% off the cost! That will show them.
11-24-2006, 12:21 AM
#16
yeah, i've had my share of dumb questions... and so have most people i'm sure.... no big deal, some tease others ignore, glad to see you are seeing the light. What good is the internet if some random person in MA, CT or PA can't tell you how ot fix your car anyway?
just the 4 inch tube with the sensor and the screen, must remove airbox and bolts, also a hose clamp or two, but it is very simple and as stated before it only takes a short time, i've done three and could do my next in 15-20 mins flat... don't touch the screen too much and might as well clean all around and inside the airbox... (after removing the four bolts that connect the maf) careful with the sensor... don't put too much moisture or dirt near it.. it is SENSitive
i disconnected neg terminal for a few hours but i think it's useless unless it's 24... should be fine though either way.
night and day! you wait and see....
just the 4 inch tube with the sensor and the screen, must remove airbox and bolts, also a hose clamp or two, but it is very simple and as stated before it only takes a short time, i've done three and could do my next in 15-20 mins flat... don't touch the screen too much and might as well clean all around and inside the airbox... (after removing the four bolts that connect the maf) careful with the sensor... don't put too much moisture or dirt near it.. it is SENSitive
i disconnected neg terminal for a few hours but i think it's useless unless it's 24... should be fine though either way.
night and day! you wait and see....
11-24-2006, 08:36 PM
#17
Originally Posted by clborden
Stop it. I dont understand why you didnt listen to the fellow orgers here. No offense, but this whole thing about taking it to the dealer and throwing your money away wasnt the smartest thing. Thats scary to think that the dealer wouldnt know about the 2000 Maximas MAFs going bad and not tripping the CEL. Most of the people here didnt get a CEL when theirs went bad, mine included. The MAF costs about $110 at the dealer and is very easy to install. Go there and ask for a 2001 MAF (I know your car is a 2000, just ask for a 2001) and take care of it.
11-29-2006, 03:12 PM
#19
I just called my local dealership.
Asked for a Mass Airflow Sensor...he quoted $488...i paused in shock and was confused.. Then I asked for the mass airflow sensor only..he quotes me $28.
I thought it was around $100 for a 2000 maxima.
What gives? What should I be asking?
Asked for a Mass Airflow Sensor...he quoted $488...i paused in shock and was confused.. Then I asked for the mass airflow sensor only..he quotes me $28.
I thought it was around $100 for a 2000 maxima.
What gives? What should I be asking?
11-29-2006, 09:28 PM
#21
11-30-2006, 03:25 PM
#22
I looked at the courtesy parts website... I saw a Mass Air Flow Meter being sold for $110. After speaking with the parts dept. at my dealership I was even more confused because they quoted me 488 for the assembly.
My question is that is the Mass Air Flow Meter, Mass Air Flow sensor the exact same thing?
What part is the sensor? the whole tube-like MAF assembly?
What is the name of the electrical Connector that connects to the MAF? I don't need to change that also do I?
Anyone give me the part # for the updated 2000 MAF i need to replace?
Thanks.
My question is that is the Mass Air Flow Meter, Mass Air Flow sensor the exact same thing?
What part is the sensor? the whole tube-like MAF assembly?
What is the name of the electrical Connector that connects to the MAF? I don't need to change that also do I?
Anyone give me the part # for the updated 2000 MAF i need to replace?
Thanks.
11-30-2006, 05:37 PM
#23
You need a Mass Air Flow sensor. I was under the impression you couldn't get the sensor without the tube assembly (I bought mine w/ the tube assemble for $110). It took 20 minutes to change. Some people have just chaged the sensor. They say it is easier but I've never done anything easier than changing the whole assembly so it can't be that much easier.
Is the Mass Air Flow Meter the same as the Mas Air Flow sensor? I don't know, ask the dealer what the difference is.
This is what you need. Just call them to make sure you get the right one for your car (they may need your VIN).
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D
Is the Mass Air Flow Meter the same as the Mas Air Flow sensor? I don't know, ask the dealer what the difference is.
This is what you need. Just call them to make sure you get the right one for your car (they may need your VIN).
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=22680-VQ30D
11-30-2006, 07:42 PM
#24
Fusion
Sensor and Meter are the same thing and I got my MAF in May from Courtesy parts as well. You get the complete assembly for $110 (can't find the part number but it does have a green dot on it meaning it's updated). Stealerships charge arm and leg for these and even more for '02-03 models. Same part... Go figure...
And in the future, tell your mechanic not to clean or tamper with the sensor, it's not going to do any good.
Sensor and Meter are the same thing and I got my MAF in May from Courtesy parts as well. You get the complete assembly for $110 (can't find the part number but it does have a green dot on it meaning it's updated). Stealerships charge arm and leg for these and even more for '02-03 models. Same part... Go figure...
And in the future, tell your mechanic not to clean or tamper with the sensor, it's not going to do any good.
12-01-2006, 02:39 PM
#25
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 13
Injen and MAF???
I just installed the Injen intake on my 2002 last night. Test drove fine, 40 minutes into my drive to work this AM, the car died. Had it towed, stealer told me that it was the MAF and it needed replaced to the $$$ of 600!!!
1. Would the Injen cause this issue or is it coincidence?
2. $600? Are they for real?
3. My understanding of the MAF was that if it went bed or got dirty, the engine would just run like crap (happened in my Tacoma.) True? False?
Ideas or suggestions would be great! I have looked through the site today since I found it and hae gotten the impression that Injen is NOT the way to go...
Thanks in advance!
1. Would the Injen cause this issue or is it coincidence?
2. $600? Are they for real?
3. My understanding of the MAF was that if it went bed or got dirty, the engine would just run like crap (happened in my Tacoma.) True? False?
Ideas or suggestions would be great! I have looked through the site today since I found it and hae gotten the impression that Injen is NOT the way to go...
Thanks in advance!
12-01-2006, 11:44 PM
#26
Sounds like just coincidence with the timing of the Injen install. Don't got for a new MAf...just pull your battery cables off, press the brake pedal a few times, and let the car sit for about 14 hours.
12-06-2006, 04:59 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 175
My car feels the same way. When I'm at WOT sometimes, the RPM's shoot up to about 5-6000RPM and then shift but after about 5000 RPM there feels like a power loss. This happened to my friend and it was his MAF but also his tranny. My car has 50K. 2001 maxima
08-12-2018, 08:39 AM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 1
before you buy a MAF
My 98 maxima was having the issue where it didn't shift.I searched the forums and did some research, then changed the MAF and the PCV, valve my problem was still there. I researched more to find the next part to try i started to investigate the speed sensor and one post suggested that you check speed sensor fuse.... I pulled up a diagram of the fuse panel (my panel / the diagram is missing) and looked for the a/t controller fuse guess what that fuse was gone a about a week before i pulled it to replace the radio fuse (i thought it was A/C controller, mines busted anyway) but I replaced it and it ran just fine .
The moral of the story just check your fuses first maybe thats it. I hope anyone else having this trouble can find my sorry tale of woe when they look for answers
The moral of the story just check your fuses first maybe thats it. I hope anyone else having this trouble can find my sorry tale of woe when they look for answers
08-14-2018, 04:42 PM
#30
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6
Speed sensor yes. The trans on my old 00 a/t sporadically would not shift out of first gear. Id have to pull over and wait about 20 min for it to cool down and then it would shi ft again for a while. Turned out to be an intermittent failure of the speed sensor. 5 minute fix.
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