Clutch & flywheel questions
08-15-2018, 07:27 PM
#1
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Clutch & flywheel questions
Just for the sake of clarification, I’m the same use as “Maxima-ness” just can’t for some reason, log into my account and the admin won’t return my messages. So here i am. A member for 16 years with a new account.
Anyway...
My clutch is toast. 2002 SE 6SPD. At 192,000+ miles, it’s slipping like crazy and is almost not deiveable. I’ve found a place to install everything but I have questions. I know for a fact that I want the Fidanza flywheel. So that’s settled. The only thing that I keep going back and forth on is the clutch. My car is naturally aspirated and is a DD. I’m considering the exedy stage 1 or the exedy OEM, however, legend has it that the 350z clutch will work and is less expensive than the exedy. So, tell me more? DaveB is gone. Who do I order it from? I’ve googled it and he 350z clutch is $600! Is there a particular year? Is there someone like DaveB anymore we can call? Is there any group discount or special for members on the Fidanza?
So if i understand it correctly, I get the Maxima Fidanza, (?? Year??) z33 clutch, Maxima pressure plate and the Maxima TOB. Anything I’m missing?
And yes, I’m somehow still confused by the sprung vs unsprung thing. I’m no mechanic so I’m not attempting to learn it all, just want to buy the right stuff the first time since this is my only source of transportation.
Anyway...
My clutch is toast. 2002 SE 6SPD. At 192,000+ miles, it’s slipping like crazy and is almost not deiveable. I’ve found a place to install everything but I have questions. I know for a fact that I want the Fidanza flywheel. So that’s settled. The only thing that I keep going back and forth on is the clutch. My car is naturally aspirated and is a DD. I’m considering the exedy stage 1 or the exedy OEM, however, legend has it that the 350z clutch will work and is less expensive than the exedy. So, tell me more? DaveB is gone. Who do I order it from? I’ve googled it and he 350z clutch is $600! Is there a particular year? Is there someone like DaveB anymore we can call? Is there any group discount or special for members on the Fidanza?
So if i understand it correctly, I get the Maxima Fidanza, (?? Year??) z33 clutch, Maxima pressure plate and the Maxima TOB. Anything I’m missing?
And yes, I’m somehow still confused by the sprung vs unsprung thing. I’m no mechanic so I’m not attempting to learn it all, just want to buy the right stuff the first time since this is my only source of transportation.
Last edited by Maxima_Ness; 08-15-2018 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Details
08-15-2018, 08:30 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
EXEDY stage 1 is only $460.- at Rockauto. Here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lutch+kit,1993
08-15-2018, 08:30 PM
#3
You want a sprung disc for street use. Basically you'll have smoother engagement.
I have used OEM and Exedy stage 1 on my 4th gens. I'd recommend either, pedal feel is similar and daily driving isn't all that different with a stage 1.
I have a Fidanza which does take a bit to get used to. You'll have to change your shifting habits slightly to get the timing right.
I have used OEM and Exedy stage 1 on my 4th gens. I'd recommend either, pedal feel is similar and daily driving isn't all that different with a stage 1.
I have a Fidanza which does take a bit to get used to. You'll have to change your shifting habits slightly to get the timing right.
08-15-2018, 08:37 PM
#4
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You want a sprung disc for street use. Basically you'll have smoother engagement.
I have used OEM and Exedy stage 1 on my 4th gens. I'd recommend either, pedal feel is similar and daily driving isn't all that different with a stage 1.
I have a Fidanza which does take a bit to get used to. You'll have to change your shifting habits slightly to get the timing right.
I have used OEM and Exedy stage 1 on my 4th gens. I'd recommend either, pedal feel is similar and daily driving isn't all that different with a stage 1.
I have a Fidanza which does take a bit to get used to. You'll have to change your shifting habits slightly to get the timing right.
08-15-2018, 09:42 PM
#5
08-16-2018, 07:05 AM
#7
Exedy is the OEM manufacturer but the stage 1 is an upgrade from stock.
The 350Z clutch from the HR car (06+) used to be the way to go. It was cheaper than the Exedy stage 1 and essentially the same thing. One step up from the Maxima clutch. Before 06 the 350Z and Maxima used the same clutch part #. Ni$$an raised the price on the 350Z HR clutch so it's now more than the Exedy.
The Exedy stage 1 works great with the Fidanza FW. I've been using that setup for years now. The pedal feels about the same as stock but has more clamping force than the stock clutch.The disk is sprung too which is good with the solid FW.
I've tried several setups over the years. I was one of the 1st people researching and trying out the 350Z clutch in the Maxima. If I had to swap the clutch today I'd go with the Exedy stage 1 again.
The 350Z clutch from the HR car (06+) used to be the way to go. It was cheaper than the Exedy stage 1 and essentially the same thing. One step up from the Maxima clutch. Before 06 the 350Z and Maxima used the same clutch part #. Ni$$an raised the price on the 350Z HR clutch so it's now more than the Exedy.
The Exedy stage 1 works great with the Fidanza FW. I've been using that setup for years now. The pedal feels about the same as stock but has more clamping force than the stock clutch.The disk is sprung too which is good with the solid FW.
I've tried several setups over the years. I was one of the 1st people researching and trying out the 350Z clutch in the Maxima. If I had to swap the clutch today I'd go with the Exedy stage 1 again.
08-16-2018, 08:14 AM
#8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valeo-Clutc...sAAOSwLmlbUC0g
I used the valeo OE on my G35 and it's perfect. The pedal is firm leading me to believe that it has good clamping power. Prices have definitely skyrocketed. I paid 160 a year ago. Even stock maxima is fine. I have OE exedy on the hr swap. The pedal is actually too soft on it lol, but it doesn't matter how hard or slow I shift, both clutches perform crisp and smooth every single shift. Everyone's a crybaby with lightweight flywheels, but both cars just go right off idle with very little slipping required.
I'd save the money as there's no tangible benefit. I had an HR clutch in my other maxima and it performed the same.
I used the valeo OE on my G35 and it's perfect. The pedal is firm leading me to believe that it has good clamping power. Prices have definitely skyrocketed. I paid 160 a year ago. Even stock maxima is fine. I have OE exedy on the hr swap. The pedal is actually too soft on it lol, but it doesn't matter how hard or slow I shift, both clutches perform crisp and smooth every single shift. Everyone's a crybaby with lightweight flywheels, but both cars just go right off idle with very little slipping required.
I'd save the money as there's no tangible benefit. I had an HR clutch in my other maxima and it performed the same.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 08-16-2018 at 08:19 AM.
08-16-2018, 10:53 AM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 33
Exedy is the OEM manufacturer but the stage 1 is an upgrade from stock.
The 350Z clutch from the HR car (06+) used to be the way to go. It was cheaper than the Exedy stage 1 and essentially the same thing. One step up from the Maxima clutch. Before 06 the 350Z and Maxima used the same clutch part #. Ni$$an raised the price on the 350Z HR clutch so it's now more than the Exedy.
The Exedy stage 1 works great with the Fidanza FW. I've been using that setup for years now. The pedal feels about the same as stock but has more clamping force than the stock clutch.The disk is sprung too which is good with the solid FW.
I've tried several setups over the years. I was one of the 1st people researching and trying out the 350Z clutch in the Maxima. If I had to swap the clutch today I'd go with the Exedy stage 1 again.
The 350Z clutch from the HR car (06+) used to be the way to go. It was cheaper than the Exedy stage 1 and essentially the same thing. One step up from the Maxima clutch. Before 06 the 350Z and Maxima used the same clutch part #. Ni$$an raised the price on the 350Z HR clutch so it's now more than the Exedy.
The Exedy stage 1 works great with the Fidanza FW. I've been using that setup for years now. The pedal feels about the same as stock but has more clamping force than the stock clutch.The disk is sprung too which is good with the solid FW.
I've tried several setups over the years. I was one of the 1st people researching and trying out the 350Z clutch in the Maxima. If I had to swap the clutch today I'd go with the Exedy stage 1 again.
And thanks for the info. I’m going with the stage 1 and Fidanza based on your experience.
08-16-2018, 11:58 AM
#11
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I wish that was an option but at 192,000 miles, I’m sure it’s done. Some shops want to resurface it which I know is a big no-no. I think every single thread I’ve researched online has said the same thing: replace the flywheel when you replace the clutch. I just don’t want to do this twice. Labor is a beast.
08-16-2018, 01:58 PM
#12
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showing my my lack of transmission knowledge. Looking at the exedy kit, it comes with the TO bearing and pressure plate. Sorry for my lack of google usage.
also, besides the flywheel and clutch kit, is there anything else I should be getting before I have this done that should be replaced? I’m going to order a SS clutch line. Just wasn’t sure if there was some sort of random bearing or boot or rubber piece I needed to have on hand.
Last edited by Maxima_Ness; 08-16-2018 at 02:10 PM.
08-16-2018, 06:21 PM
#14
I wish that was an option but at 192,000 miles, I’m sure it’s done. Some shops want to resurface it which I know is a big no-no. I think every single thread I’ve researched online has said the same thing: replace the flywheel when you replace the clutch. I just don’t want to do this twice. Labor is a beast.
As long as you have the TO bearing there's nothing else you need as far as parts. I'd also order 3 quarts of Redline MT90 to replace the fluid. That's the best fluid for it. These cars NEED GL4 fluid and NOT GL5 which is more common. GL4 can be hard to come by in some places,other than the dealer, and the Nissan GL4 MTF sucks.
I don't remember any part #s but any Maxima TO bearing for 02+ will work.
Are you doing this your self?
08-16-2018, 06:35 PM
#15
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You'll like the Fidanza. There's a noticeable performance increase from it. I had one of the early Fidanza FWs and had an issue which caused me to go from stock to the Fidanza, back to stock and finally back to the Fidanza. I got a real good feeling of going back and forth. Going back to stock felt like filling the tank and carrying a few passengers. The car just feels lighter with the Fidanza.
As long as you have the TO bearing there's nothing else you need as far as parts. I'd also order 3 quarts of Redline MT90 to replace the fluid. That's the best fluid for it. These cars NEED GL4 fluid and NOT GL5 which is more common. GL4 can be hard to come by in some places,other than the dealer, and the Nissan GL4 MTF sucks.
I don't remember any part #s but any Maxima TO bearing for 02+ will work.
Are you doing this your self?
As long as you have the TO bearing there's nothing else you need as far as parts. I'd also order 3 quarts of Redline MT90 to replace the fluid. That's the best fluid for it. These cars NEED GL4 fluid and NOT GL5 which is more common. GL4 can be hard to come by in some places,other than the dealer, and the Nissan GL4 MTF sucks.
I don't remember any part #s but any Maxima TO bearing for 02+ will work.
Are you doing this your self?
Does the exedy stage 1 come with a TO bearing?
08-16-2018, 06:44 PM
#16
I just remembered you asked about "sprung vs unsprung".
That refers to the clutch disk with the friction material on it. "Sprung" has four or five springs in it to absorb some of the shock. The stage 1 is sprung while OEM is unsprung. The OEM FW is "dual mass" which doesn't require a sprung clutch. In fact, I think it's better not to run a sprung clutch with a dual mass FW. It's just too much slop and can cause chattering.
The "dual mass" flywheel makes the car easier to drive but the trade off is that it's heavy and robs performance. It basically smooths out any mistakes and makes it so anyone from a 16 year old girl to a 90 year old man can hop into a stock 5.5 gen and drive it smoothly. It's great for selling the car because it makes anyone feel like an expert from the first drive. The light FW is like taking off the training wheels. I wouldn't say it's harder to drive. It just takes a little more precision.
That refers to the clutch disk with the friction material on it. "Sprung" has four or five springs in it to absorb some of the shock. The stage 1 is sprung while OEM is unsprung. The OEM FW is "dual mass" which doesn't require a sprung clutch. In fact, I think it's better not to run a sprung clutch with a dual mass FW. It's just too much slop and can cause chattering.
The "dual mass" flywheel makes the car easier to drive but the trade off is that it's heavy and robs performance. It basically smooths out any mistakes and makes it so anyone from a 16 year old girl to a 90 year old man can hop into a stock 5.5 gen and drive it smoothly. It's great for selling the car because it makes anyone feel like an expert from the first drive. The light FW is like taking off the training wheels. I wouldn't say it's harder to drive. It just takes a little more precision.
08-16-2018, 06:50 PM
#17
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I just remembered you asked about "sprung vs unsprung".
That refers to the clutch disk with the friction material on it. "Sprung" has four or five springs in it to absorb some of the shock. The stage 1 is sprung while OEM is unsprung. The OEM FW is "dual mass" which doesn't require a sprung clutch. In fact, I think it's better not to run a sprung clutch with a dual mass FW. It's just too much slop and can cause chattering.
The "dual mass" flywheel makes the car easier to drive but the trade off is that it's heavy and robs performance. It basically smooths out any mistakes and makes it so anyone from a 16 year old girl to a 90 year old man can hop into a stock 5.5 gen and drive it smoothly. It's great for selling the car because it makes anyone feel like an expert from the first drive. The light FW is like taking off the training wheels. I wouldn't say it's harder to drive. It just takes a little more precision.
That refers to the clutch disk with the friction material on it. "Sprung" has four or five springs in it to absorb some of the shock. The stage 1 is sprung while OEM is unsprung. The OEM FW is "dual mass" which doesn't require a sprung clutch. In fact, I think it's better not to run a sprung clutch with a dual mass FW. It's just too much slop and can cause chattering.
The "dual mass" flywheel makes the car easier to drive but the trade off is that it's heavy and robs performance. It basically smooths out any mistakes and makes it so anyone from a 16 year old girl to a 90 year old man can hop into a stock 5.5 gen and drive it smoothly. It's great for selling the car because it makes anyone feel like an expert from the first drive. The light FW is like taking off the training wheels. I wouldn't say it's harder to drive. It just takes a little more precision.
Side note, did your rear wheel wells start to rust and if so, how did you get it fixed? What did it cost?
08-16-2018, 06:53 PM
#18
yeah I use the red line fluid already so I’ll have more. Im not doing it myself. I found a guy that knows what he’s doing and I’m paying him $500 to do all the the work. He’s cleaning it all up before he reassembles it too. And fixing a few sensors that are bad while he’s at it. So fair enough.
Does the exedy stage 1 come with a TO bearing?
You might ask him how much more he wants to do the rear main seal while he's in there. It's a good bit more work after dropping the tranny. You have to drop the Y-pipe and upper oil pan but you're at the mileage where it's going to start leaking if it's not already. Both of mine started leaking around the 200,000 mile mark.
08-16-2018, 07:01 PM
#19
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I don't remember but I think it didn't come with the TO last time I swapped. You'll have to check. $500 is a good price for it. I've done it many times and it's a lot of work.
You might ask him how much more he wants to do the rear main seal while he's in there. It's a good bit more work after dropping the tranny. You have to drop the Y-pipe and upper oil pan but you're at the mileage where it's going to start leaking if it's not already. Both of mine started leaking around the 200,000 mile mark.
You might ask him how much more he wants to do the rear main seal while he's in there. It's a good bit more work after dropping the tranny. You have to drop the Y-pipe and upper oil pan but you're at the mileage where it's going to start leaking if it's not already. Both of mine started leaking around the 200,000 mile mark.
08-16-2018, 07:10 PM
#21
Thanks for the clarification. I’m also glad to have found another original owner here. I registered back in 2000 but I can’t get my old account back for some reason. Do you have any suggestions on places to buy the clutch kit and FW? And I’m pretty sure that pictures in the exedy stage 1 kit is a TO bearing. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Side note, did your rear wheel wells start to rust and if so, how did you get it fixed? What did it cost?
Just google it and find the cheapest one. I got the FW back in 04 or 05 and got my last clutch through a mechanic friend through Worldpac but that's just for mechanics with an account.
We don't have rust issues here in NW Florida. Even the stock exhaust on my 300,000 mile 00 is still silver and shiny. Two years ago I removed the stock Y-pipe/heat shields on the 00 and put them back with all the same nuts. There's literally not a speck of rust on or under any of my cars. Even the suspension parts and bolts look new. If I lived somewhere else I would come here to buy cars and ship them back.
08-16-2018, 07:17 PM
#22
The seal comes with a plate and gaskets for the plate. The seal already installed in a plate that lives between the block and upper oil pan. The whole plate gets replaced. If you go to rockauto.com there'll be a picture of it.
Just make sure he uses a good RTV for the upper and lower oil pans and not the crap that comes with the seal kit. Neither pan uses a gasket and relies on good RTV.
Just make sure he uses a good RTV for the upper and lower oil pans and not the crap that comes with the seal kit. Neither pan uses a gasket and relies on good RTV.
08-16-2018, 07:22 PM
#23
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The seal comes with a plate and gaskets for the plate. The seal already installed in a plate that lives between the block and upper oil pan. The whole plate gets replaced. If you go to rockauto.com there'll be a picture of it.
Just make sure he uses a good RTV for the upper and lower oil pans and not the crap that comes with the seal kit. Neither pan uses a gasket and relies on good RTV.
Just make sure he uses a good RTV for the upper and lower oil pans and not the crap that comes with the seal kit. Neither pan uses a gasket and relies on good RTV.
This?
08-16-2018, 10:09 PM
#25
thanks for the heads up on that! It has not started leaking yet. I did just get a leak fixed by the oil filter that was really simple thankfully. I’m sure he won’t care to do it. I’m sure it will add on some more cost though lol. Hopefully not much since he’s already going to be in there. Is there a part I need to order to have for him to use? A seal or gasket or anything?
08-16-2018, 11:55 PM
#26
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I am currently doing my clutch on my 02 6spd I actually finished tonight just need to bleed the clutch. replaced the engine/ trans mounts as well and the axle seals. The car had the oem original clutch still in after 231k miles!- incredible. And it wasnt even the clutch that went bad but the release bearing. The OEM clutch is Valeo by the way. It looks like the exedy in that it has no springs but it says valeo on it and autozone has Valeo listed as the OEM as well. You can get the valeo kit from them for $231 if thats what you are looking for. Im short on cash right now and replaced mine with a $98 clutch kit from ebay, a regular spring clutch. I did mine in my apt complex parking lot with a harbor freight tranny jack so it was a pain in the ***
08-17-2018, 12:37 AM
#27
I am currently doing my clutch on my 02 6spd I actually finished tonight just need to bleed the clutch. replaced the engine/ trans mounts as well and the axle seals. The car had the oem original clutch still in after 231k miles!- incredible. And it wasnt even the clutch that went bad but the release bearing. The OEM clutch is Valeo by the way. It looks like the exedy in that it has no springs but it says valeo on it and autozone has Valeo listed as the OEM as well. You can get the valeo kit from them for $231 if thats what you are looking for. Im short on cash right now and replaced mine with a $98 clutch kit from ebay, a regular spring clutch. I did mine in my apt complex parking lot with a harbor freight tranny jack so it was a pain in the ***
08-17-2018, 05:54 PM
#29
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08-17-2018, 11:56 PM
#30
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