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My max has 299, 617 miles on it, all one owner. The car was running pretty well until last week going down the road, I shifted into neutral (6 speed) and it died. Popped the clutch, started back up, figured I'd check into it once I got home. A few minutes later, the car suddenly lost power, dropping from 60 to 40, then got slower and slower until I shifted into neutral and it died and coasted into a parking lot. The car will start, but takes much longer than usual. Idle is rough, but any extra gas and it instantly bogs, shakes, has a sort of knock or very hard rattle. I should add that I've had a rattle on deceleration for quite some time, probably the timing chain tensioner issue?
So, before I go crazy just tearing things apart, I need advice on direction. The timing chain has never been replaced. Neither has the oil pump or water pump. My uncle, a long time mechanic, listened and looked, and said it seems like the timing is way off, but it doesn't sound as if there is any piston or valve damage.
So, thoughts? It looks like a DIY timing chain swap is labor intensive but not overly hideous, but before I get into tearing it down, I'd like some input from people like you guys that have worked on these 3.5s, to see if I should proceed with timing, or if it's an oil pump issue, or what. Previously, my oil light would occasionally flicker, but only on cold mornings when the idle was low, or when the oil itself was a little low (you know these VQ35DEs, the oil is almost self-changing).
some guys claim they last forever, maybe they do. buy, fleet maintenance guys who replace stuff on lots of vehicles say it's at least worth inspecting, i'd only use OEM timing chains and guides. very expensive though, so maybe worth inspecting each chain/guide and buying only what's needed?
I'm planing on a new exhaust, trans, washer mod, valve cover gaskets, flywheel etc so i just figured i'd drop the whole sub frame and do it then. it's pretty evolved you have little space between the frame / rail and engine so i figured sod it, i'll pull the whole lot out and rebuild the whole front half of the car.
some guys claim they last forever, maybe they do. buy, fleet maintenance guys who replace stuff on lots of vehicles say it's at least worth inspecting, i'd only use OEM timing chains and guides. very expensive though, so maybe worth inspecting each chain/guide and buying only what's needed?
Thanks. My problem is that, even if I can pull the cover successfully, I'm not sure what I'd even look for. Or worse, I could replace the whole timing chain setup, bolt it back up, and after spending a small fortune still have an issue. I'm stuck doing my own work, though, because a student broke my back, crushed three discs in class a few years back, I haven't worked in years and waiting on my disability hearing, so dropping $2500 at a local shop isn't feasible. Ugh.
Thanks. My problem is that, even if I can pull the cover successfully, I'm not sure what I'd even look for. Or worse, I could replace the whole timing chain setup, bolt it back up, and after spending a small fortune still have an issue. I'm stuck doing my own work, though, because a student broke my back, crushed three discs in class a few years back, I haven't worked in years and waiting on my disability hearing, so dropping $2500 at a local shop isn't feasible. Ugh.
cheaper to find i low mile engine ,these engine are not time or cost effective to repair.
cheaper to find i low mile engine ,these engine are not time or cost effective to repair.
So I've heard! I checked with one place for the timing chain - $2500. She quoted me a "new-used" engine at $2400-3200 depending on their source cost. No brainer, if I had the cash.
Try a new/different MAF before making any major decisions.
MAF sensor? I'm not doubting you, but I'm unsure how the MAF sensor would cause extremely hard starts, then a rough knocking sound and lack of top end power. Granted, I have a limited understanding of what the mass air flow sensor does, but I did replace it back at around 180k, because my idle was rough.
I must say congrats for making it to 299k on a 3.5 sir
Thanks! I can't really take the credit, though - this has been the best car I've ever owned. I didn't even have to replace the clutch until 180,000 or so. No, that's not a typo, and not a lie. I don't drive hard.
In a way that makes total sense. I mean, there was no sound when it died (like I would think would happen if the timing chain jumped), it just quietly died when I shifted into neutral. After that, very hard start, idles rough, any acceleration makes it bog and knock.
While you may have said that to others today and feel like a broken record, I heard it for the first time just now. Thanks for the input, though.
I SHOULD have said that I did scan the codes. The only two I had were the P1800 VIAS solenoid and the one for the Catalytic converter mismatch (my exhaust donut/flange needs replacing). I cleared the codes, installed the new coil packs I had ordered, and still runs awful. The only code I have now, after running at idle and revving gently, is the P1800.
08-24-2018, 08:24 AM
