Wheel, suspension upgrades
08-24-2018, 08:37 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 3
Wheel, suspension upgrades
New to this, so don't roast me too bad, but I'm seeking advice on my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE.
I recently found and installed a nice set of 18x8 350z wheels. 245-40-R18's all around. It looks great, but I want to lower it. I'm thinking about the Eibach Pro-Kit Spring set paired with some Koni or Bilstein shocks. Am I headed in the right direction?? Any input would be great! Thanks!
I recently found and installed a nice set of 18x8 350z wheels. 245-40-R18's all around. It looks great, but I want to lower it. I'm thinking about the Eibach Pro-Kit Spring set paired with some Koni or Bilstein shocks. Am I headed in the right direction?? Any input would be great! Thanks!
Last edited by JDM4LIFEE; 08-24-2018 at 08:38 AM. Reason: forum name
08-28-2018, 08:41 PM
#9
K-Sport Kontrol coilovers give separate height and spring tension adjustments for around $800.00 and are made in Japan. I really like the way they feel. The car corners flat and they're way smoother than my old Eibach lowering kit.
I wound never do a spring/strut combo again. Good coilovers give a way better ride, far better performance at whatever height you want.
I wound never do a spring/strut combo again. Good coilovers give a way better ride, far better performance at whatever height you want.
08-30-2018, 07:42 AM
#12
Any strut can break, blow or leak. I don't know of any problems with getting parts from K-Sport. I got the kit very quickly when I ordered it.
They have a good reputation so I don't feel like I'm taking any sort of extra risk using them over any others. I don't think they're at risk if failing any more than other brands. The fact that they're made in Japan tells me just the opposite. They look and feel like high quality.
After having coilovers I'll never do another basic spring/strut lowering kit.
08-30-2018, 10:13 AM
#13
I don't see why they'd be different from any others. They have a warranty. They can be sent back for service or replacement just like any other strut system. The strut can be taken apart and rebuilt which isn't the case with a lot of other struts. Even if they're discontinued, they're will be seal kits for them. After the warranty you pay for it just like any other brand or do it yourself.
Any strut can break, blow or leak. I don't know of any problems with getting parts from K-Sport. I got the kit very quickly when I ordered it.
They have a good reputation so I don't feel like I'm taking any sort of extra risk using them over any others. I don't think they're at risk if failing any more than other brands. The fact that they're made in Japan tells me just the opposite. They look and feel like high quality.
After having coilovers I'll never do another basic spring/strut lowering kit.
Any strut can break, blow or leak. I don't know of any problems with getting parts from K-Sport. I got the kit very quickly when I ordered it.
They have a good reputation so I don't feel like I'm taking any sort of extra risk using them over any others. I don't think they're at risk if failing any more than other brands. The fact that they're made in Japan tells me just the opposite. They look and feel like high quality.
After having coilovers I'll never do another basic spring/strut lowering kit.
I'm tempted to do coils on my Max but wondering if it'll make the car any better. My car has KYB + H Tech only but it is heavily braces. The ride is complaint, slightly stiffer than stock but not harsh. It still takes pot holes good and it corners very well. I do like slight body roll just to give me a little warning on the limit. I can adjust the over/under steer by adjusting the rear sway bar. Right now, it's setup to have slight over steer.
Last edited by Genes1s; 08-30-2018 at 10:23 AM.
08-30-2018, 05:48 PM
#14
I think the Coilovers are cool but, 7 out 10 people have no clue how to setup nor adjust coilover assemblies properly, nor have the corner weighing scales to properly set up a well balance streetcar!!! All the coilovers setups I rode in rode like crap with a bunch of rattling, and teeth jarring vibrations that wern't anywhere close to the ride compliance of either 3 of my Maxima(s)...5.5th Gen (Progress/Koni), 4th Gen (S-Teins/AGX), 3rd Gen(ST/KYB)...The pillow block bearing setup isn't for the street....Progress' Cattman upper strut mount was an awesome design more like the traditional McPherson strut upper strut mount and was quiet trouble free and durable....So if the coilover owner can't set it up for street use he/she more than likely has no business rebuilding it either....and how much people have a shock dyno to set up the shock properly using pressure per inch of movement? Nobody I know...So their cool and dandy to turn like your on rails...But most coilovers are beyond the scope and detail of most auto hobbyist...
Last edited by CMax03; 08-31-2018 at 01:50 AM.
08-30-2018, 06:15 PM
#15
My experience with Coilovers (on E36 M3), only on good quality Coilovers though that the performance and warranty/service are decent. The more moving parts they have the more chance to fail IMO if it is not high quality. I found that for street/daily use, a good set of struts/shocks would be cheaper/same price as the cheap coilovers ones and they provide better value (performance, quality, and price). You kinda set and forget and it'll perform well.
I'm tempted to do coils on my Max but wondering if it'll make the car any better. My car has KYB + H Tech only but it is heavily braces. The ride is complaint, slightly stiffer than stock but not harsh. It still takes pot holes good and it corners very well. I do like slight body roll just to give me a little warning on the limit. I can adjust the over/under steer by adjusting the rear sway bar. Right now, it's setup to have slight over steer.
I'm tempted to do coils on my Max but wondering if it'll make the car any better. My car has KYB + H Tech only but it is heavily braces. The ride is complaint, slightly stiffer than stock but not harsh. It still takes pot holes good and it corners very well. I do like slight body roll just to give me a little warning on the limit. I can adjust the over/under steer by adjusting the rear sway bar. Right now, it's setup to have slight over steer.
If you're happy with the setup you have then stick with it. I wouldn't compare cheap coilovers to good spring/strut setups though.
I prefer flat cornering with a ride height that isn't slammed at all. It doesn't look "lowered" unless someone knows how it should look. If you slam a set of coilovers they'll drive like crap.
08-30-2018, 06:59 PM
#16
I think the Coilovers are cool but, 7 out 10 people have no clue how to setup nor adjust coilover assemblies properly, nor have the corner weighing scales to properly set up a well balance streetcar!!! All the coilovers setups I rode in rode like crap with a bunch of rattling, and teeth jarring vibrations that are anywhere close to the ride compliance of either 3 of my Maxima(s)...5.5th Gen (Progress/Koni), 4th Gen (S-Teins/AGX), 3rd Gen(ST/KYB)...The pillow block bearing setup isn't for the street....Progress' Cattman upper strut mount was an awesome design more like the traditional McPherson strut upper strut mount and was quiet trouble free and durable....So if the coilover owner can't set it up for street use he/she more than likely has no business rebuilding it either....and how much people have a shock dyno to set up the shock properly using pressure per inch of movement? Nobody I know...So their cool and dandy to turn like your on rails...But most coilovers are beyond the scope and detail of most auto hobbyist...
I don't know what you've ridden in but I've been in a lot of cars with QUALITY coilovers that ride really well. My K-sports are better in every way than the Eibach/Tokico that I had before.
I do think coilovers get a bad rap because a lot of people don't set them up right or use them to slam the car so it does ride like crap. People think that the stiffest setting at the lowest possible height is the best thing to do. People also buy the cheapest ones they can find off eBay just so they can slam the car. If that makes them happy it's fine. It's just not a good representation of how a good set can improve a car. I have mine setup to corner flat, take bumps reasonably well and have a realistic height.
I don't care what anyone chooses to put under their car and I'm not going to criticize anyones choice. I'm just sharing my experiences with modern good quality coilovers that are properly setup. People can make their own decision.
It comes down to this. If you want the option of setting the car up exactly how you want, get coilovers. If you don't want to think about it, get a lowering kit. Neither one is wrong. It's just a matter of what you want out of it.
08-31-2018, 02:06 AM
#17
Then 7 out of 10 people can take it to a shop and have them installed, aligned and set up. That's got nothing to do with it. The K-Sports are actually easier to install since they come as an assembly. No compressing springs, fighting the upper bolt etc.... 3 nuts up top, two bolts down low and they're in. If someone can't handle that then they really have no business playing with compressed springs.
I don't know what you've ridden in but I've been in a lot of cars with QUALITY coilovers that ride really well. My K-sports are better in every way than the Eibach/Tokico that I had before.
I do think coilovers get a bad rap because a lot of people don't set them up right or use them to slam the car so it does ride like crap. People think that the stiffest setting at the lowest possible height is the best thing to do. People also buy the cheapest ones they can find off eBay just so they can slam the car. If that makes them happy it's fine. It's just not a good representation of how a good set can improve a car. I have mine setup to corner flat, take bumps reasonably well and have a realistic height.
I don't care what anyone chooses to put under their car and I'm not going to criticize anyones choice. I'm just sharing my experiences with modern good quality coilovers that are properly setup. People can make their own decision.
It comes down to this. If you want the option of setting the car up exactly how you want, get coilovers. If you don't want to think about it, get a lowering kit. Neither one is wrong. It's just a matter of what you want out of it.
I don't know what you've ridden in but I've been in a lot of cars with QUALITY coilovers that ride really well. My K-sports are better in every way than the Eibach/Tokico that I had before.
I do think coilovers get a bad rap because a lot of people don't set them up right or use them to slam the car so it does ride like crap. People think that the stiffest setting at the lowest possible height is the best thing to do. People also buy the cheapest ones they can find off eBay just so they can slam the car. If that makes them happy it's fine. It's just not a good representation of how a good set can improve a car. I have mine setup to corner flat, take bumps reasonably well and have a realistic height.
I don't care what anyone chooses to put under their car and I'm not going to criticize anyones choice. I'm just sharing my experiences with modern good quality coilovers that are properly setup. People can make their own decision.
It comes down to this. If you want the option of setting the car up exactly how you want, get coilovers. If you don't want to think about it, get a lowering kit. Neither one is wrong. It's just a matter of what you want out of it.
08-31-2018, 10:18 AM
#18
great points here ! i am in agreeance that for set it and forget it springs struts is the way to go. you guys forgot to mention North East Daily driving in the winter, i have heard of many coil overs(even quality ones) having a really tough time up here and lasting as little as 3 years when put through driving in the winters.
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
08-31-2018, 12:04 PM
#19
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Join Date: Mar 2018
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Posts: 47
great points here ! i am in agreeance that for set it and forget it springs struts is the way to go. you guys forgot to mention North East Daily driving in the winter, i have heard of many coil overs(even quality ones) having a really tough time up here and lasting as little as 3 years when put through driving in the winters.
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
09-01-2018, 01:25 PM
#20
i kinda remember such a thing! good point
09-01-2018, 03:26 PM
#21
great points here ! i am in agreeance that for set it and forget it springs struts is the way to go. you guys forgot to mention North East Daily driving in the winter, i have heard of many coil overs(even quality ones) having a really tough time up here and lasting as little as 3 years when put through driving in the winters.
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
my front tokico illuminas lasted 6-7 years daily driving in the NE
My tokico illuminas were over 10 years old and still looked new when I took them out.
My coilovers are all anodized aluminum so I'd think they would stand up to rust as well as a set of steel struts.
09-04-2018, 06:33 AM
#22
i have heard more or less the hydraulics in the C/O dampers didnt hold up well in the North East , could be extremes and rare cases , but when i was searching on what mattered to me way back then, the perception of C/O's not handling a daily driver in the north east winters, kept me away from them. also i would say C/O's have came a long way from then, so it could def be an older way of thinking at this point (this was before super stanced out rides became more trendy). seems like C/O's are all over now a days and some makes have endless brands and possibilities. sometimes I really wish I got to try them out, TEINS SS are super nice in my opinion because they use the stock shock mounts and no rough pillowball mounts. you almost get best of both worlds, C/O settings with a comfy shock mount.
i honestly just remember seeing a lot of local guys needing early replacements even on the highly rated TIENS, and I wanted to set it and forget it. all on priorities i guess.
i honestly just remember seeing a lot of local guys needing early replacements even on the highly rated TIENS, and I wanted to set it and forget it. all on priorities i guess.
09-04-2018, 11:19 PM
#23
Hey it's as suggestive as an exhaust system's note! If you're a C/O fan, Just do it!!! I guarantee they won't outlast an Aftermarket performance strut assembly on a daily driver!!! While driving the normal everyday roads!
09-05-2018, 11:26 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,132
2000 Maxima Bluebook value is around $2000 retail price with under 200,000 miles. You move that to 220k, add a "rough" value, and the tradin value drops from $700 to $57. When the tradin value of your ride doubles depending on if the gas tank is full or empty, It's time to drive that sucker into the ground. Make no frivolous modifications...save your money for it's replacement.
09-06-2018, 05:06 AM
#26
2000 Maxima Bluebook value is around $2000 retail price with under 200,000 miles. You move that to 220k, add a "rough" value, and the tradin value drops from $700 to $57. When the tradin value of your ride doubles depending on if the gas tank is full or empty, It's time to drive that sucker into the ground. Make no frivolous modifications...save your money for it's replacement.
what mileage do you have? whats your plan?
some people like to enjoy their ride rather than saving theoretical pennies that would end up being spent on the next car.
cars always depreciate new or old
09-06-2018, 08:16 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,132
You're 100% right, he's entitled to do whatever he wants to do with his ride. But as a voice of experience, I wanted to make sure he listened to reason as well as technical options above. Often times when I was younger I poured money into a worthless car just because I could. I wish sometimes that voice of reason came to my aid back then, because the younger me could have used the advice.
09-06-2018, 03:26 PM
#29
2000 Maxima Bluebook value is around $2000 retail price with under 200,000 miles. You move that to 220k, add a "rough" value, and the tradin value drops from $700 to $57. When the tradin value of your ride doubles depending on if the gas tank is full or empty, It's time to drive that sucker into the ground. Make no frivolous modifications...save your money for it's replacement.
Last edited by CMax03; 09-06-2018 at 03:41 PM.
09-06-2018, 08:38 PM
#30
You're 100% right, he's entitled to do whatever he wants to do with his ride. But as a voice of experience, I wanted to make sure he listened to reason as well as technical options above. Often times when I was younger I poured money into a worthless car just because I could. I wish sometimes that voice of reason came to my aid back then, because the younger me could have used the advice.
..nah...headlight retrofit is needed for safety reason only....
09-09-2018, 07:36 PM
#31
Headlight, suspension, brakes I would say fell under safety as well! But it's how far some go on their safety ventures that defines for safety or overkill!
Yeah especially they show up with 10000K headlights (Unless Lumens)!
Yeah especially they show up with 10000K headlights (Unless Lumens)!
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