Idle Air Control Valve Prices??
#1
Idle Air Control Valve Prices??
Looking to replace my IACV on my 2001 Infiniti I30 because car stalls at low idle. I have to press the gas when starting to get her going, but that's not something I want to do longterm. I'm wondering why prices are all over the place for the valve ranging from 30 bucks to over $300 at some outlets; for those experienced with Maximas or I30s, does it matter which brand I purchase. Below are examples of some the prices:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=340&jsn=340 This is a little over $110 and OEM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Ai...rd!77082!US!-1 This is only $34
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...%2FMotor&pos=1 $210
Just a few examples of the price disparity for a seemingly simple part; leaning towards the Rock Auto version for approx $110.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=340&jsn=340 This is a little over $110 and OEM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Idle-Ai...rd!77082!US!-1 This is only $34
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...%2FMotor&pos=1 $210
Just a few examples of the price disparity for a seemingly simple part; leaning towards the Rock Auto version for approx $110.
#3
Went ahead and bought the cheap IACV....gonna look for a ECM incase the chip was damaged; Anyway, how does someone know that the chip is damaged in engine computer?? Might try to save labor $$ and have both swapped out at the same time
#4
You don't want that cheap IACV frying your ECU; in the long run, it would cost you a lot more than the OEM part.
Also, read the document about ECU Failures (link in my signature, below). It has few more suggestions, and it will show you how a damaged ECU looks like.
#5
Go with the OEM part - the Hitachi IACV from Rockauto.
You don't want that cheap IACV frying your ECU; in the long run, it would cost you a lot more than the OEM part.
Also, read the document about ECU Failures (link in my signature, below). It has few more suggestions, and it will show you how a damaged ECU looks like.
You don't want that cheap IACV frying your ECU; in the long run, it would cost you a lot more than the OEM part.
Also, read the document about ECU Failures (link in my signature, below). It has few more suggestions, and it will show you how a damaged ECU looks like.
Thanks for the response Maxiiboy; will look at the file in your signature
#6
Definitely read and follow Maxiboy's information. It's good stuff.
When you swap it be careful with the screws that secure it. They'll be very tight and they're made of some sort of soft metal. You'll need to have the exact right screwdriver to break them free without stripping them. Pull the whole thing out and do it on a bench.
When you swap it be careful with the screws that secure it. They'll be very tight and they're made of some sort of soft metal. You'll need to have the exact right screwdriver to break them free without stripping them. Pull the whole thing out and do it on a bench.
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