Jacob42

What's the best way to slow down existing rust? I've been looking at atf or oil of some kind. Fluid film is an option but its rather expensive and most people say its best as a preventative rather than 'treatment' I'm leaning towards atf because it's supposed to creep really well and coat everything and is also supposedly very good at stopping rust.
Has anyone tried this? I'm mostly concerned if it will damage plastic / rubber parts. And if I should use conventional or synthetic and new or used? Some say synthetic doesn't work as well and won't mix with other things which leads to another question, should you mix the atf with anything? Maybe acetone or lacquer or some other type of oil like linseed? What do you think? Should I go with atf or something else? It just needs to be inexpensive and can be applied with a spray bottle or something similar.
I know rust can't be stopped, I'm just trying to slow it down as best I can and hopefully give it some protection against road salt this winter. Thanks in advance!

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Thinner plus boiled linseed oil. I applied it heavily to my sister's car last fall with the usual rust underneath and rotted out rad support, etc. It took a while to dry (2 weeks to fully dry, I think, but will depend on what you thin it with). We had the ******** nonstop spraying and dumping salt all winter (seriously like every week). There wasn't any new rust.
Drill a hole and spray into rear fenders.

Fluid film works, but is expensive and will wash off faster like around the wheels.

Also, before you do this it wouldn't hurt to use rust converter first to give it even more protection.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

That'll work well to seal the rust that you can get to, but you'll still have to spray everything else down or it'll just start in another spot/next to it. I put it in the rear fender pinch joint and squeeze it back together.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

Permatex rust treatment.

MichMaxFan

How long does the linseed oil and paint thinner mix last on the car?

I've been using fluid film. Yes it's expensive by the spray can but the gallon with an air compressor is cheap. The grade that you can spray works ok but no way even close to the greasy heavier grade in the white tub.

I used that grade on my rear axle and front end areas more prone to wear off and it's perfect. No more rust at all. But it's thicker so can't apply it everywhere.

I use the spray can or compressor 2x per year in the front rad support. Literally soak it.

Rust cannot start or continue without air. That's the chemistry behind the process of coating.

Theslaking

Corroseal is a great rust converter. Brush on or roll.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

At least a year in my experience with a heavy application. Much longer in areas that don't receive direct spray from the tires/road. Once per year ought to make a helluva coating. I'd double up in the rusted areas to make it extra thick, but I'm very impressed. It works so well, b/c it dries to a waxy finish.

Jacob42

Thanks everyone! My plan is to pre-treat with a rust converter then apply a few coats of linseed oil.
What did you use to thin it?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

mineral spirits/paint thinner