Whostheboog

Heads up this will be a long one. My 2k 5speed project car has been set aside for a tranny rebuild due to the input shaft bearing. My 2k1 gle has been parked because of erratic behavior following me gutting the lim buterflies. Had a nasty head on collision where someone was in more of a hurry than myself and failed to yield. Trucks totaled and I have to get to work and back. I've put too much money and work into glee at this point to turn around so needing a car I ordered a bunch of parts and had them shipped to where it sat. When all had arrived I went to throw her together... After the lim job glee started slipping shifts 1to2 and 2to3. I had cleaned the tb and had the tps off of course. Threw a closed throttle switch tranny code a couple of times and got frustrated with it. That's why it was parked. Borrowed some parts from her for the 5 speed who had p0505 and knew better than to chance reinstalling any of it on glee. So the parts I ordered were pen iacv, oem tps, pcv valve, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, new connectors for tps, injectors, coils, new gram ultra synthetic dry filter, removed k&n, fuel filter, fuel pump screen, lim gasket, tb gasket, egr gasket, and vias gasket. I brought with me datascan 2, some extra key blanks I had cut to program, maf, tb, brake cleaners, extra tps, relays, maf, coils, wiring supplies, connectors, loom, solder tools, heat shrinks, tools, and the fsm. Got her together bypassed iacv (car has never had iacv issue due to preventative maintenance), adjusted tps, and she fired right up. No codes other than 02 for headers. A day later the slip returned, the surge in rpm when throttle is barely applied in park/neutral, the bucking in first gear low throttle, and the drop resistor unplugged only helped so much with the slip. At this point I have all the above time and money invested right? Eel shortly before she was parked I went for an alignment and was told couldn't be done due to lca bushings destroyed. So I know better than to do and steering/suspension repair and leaving weak links so I ordered and installed new lca bushings (pressed myself), sway bar links, axles, ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, fsm complete struts all 4 corners, wheel bearings (also self pressed), axle shaft seals, rack and pinion bezels, and front abs sensors. Shortly before that my family had car sent to nissan for alternator, bracket, and battery as a gift. I insisted to let me and they insisted on laying nissan $900 for those 3 things. Ebay headers (for pre cat elimination not hp), test pipe, custom cut and fabbed the factory cat back tool out the bottle necks and kinks, stock own muffler (straight piped to factory muffler sounds great, performs amazing, and keeps low end torque due to muffler design. Radiator fan assembly, new tires, 5 year alignment, plugs, stereo add ons, religious 3k full synthetic oil change with gram ultra synthetic filter every time, and even have a special gas station I use that carries no ethanol supreme and I could tell they weren't lying upon first fill up. Needless to say I love my cars and have learned so much. Made mistakes too. But it's easy to see why giving up isn't an option. I have an infant daughter, I work, and am mechanically inclined but self taught mostly. The problems I'm having are cordless the only codes I show are my 02 and it's lean codes. I only have primaries, grey connectors hooked into exhaust atm, secondaries dangling freely away from hazards and hooked up, and not even the closed throttle switch code will come back. I have adjusted, readjusted, feeler gauge style datascan2 style, reset ecu, and I either end up with way high idle that won't relearn, successful relearn with light throttle surging, bucking in first, and slipping shifts. Because I couldn't get it to stop and have to drive to work which is a short drive and I had a week to either get fixed or at least figure out... my weeks up Wednesday night... I drained atf and I know it's not all of it but replaced with 1 quart lucas stop slip, and the rest valvoline full synthetic. Started checking wiring after some tests with multimeter, ended up adding ground to tps, cleaning all grounds with Drexel wire brush, crc electric cleaning all connectors, and wiring, repairing all frayed wiring, and assuming I have an open/short for closed tps traced wiring back to ecu... When I popped the connector off i found motor oil all over the end of the connector and inside ecu connector port... it was motor oil, and must have been from valve cover gasket in the past because no more leak now. I think when I did Kim job what little was in the ecu harness ran it's way to ecu... I cry cleaned it, dielectric greased ecu connector and every other one under the hood. Still same problem. Maf is the only not new part. I have Hitachi own in route from rock auto as we speak. I did for now clean mine with mad cleaner and it does appear to be working. Data Scan 2 and it's sensor monitoring is a godsend. Please help me out with advice. Trans never slipped before this. Tps adjustment is killing me. Haven't touch iacv adjustment and won't. Same goes for tb idle screw, haven't touched it and wont. 206,000 miles and compression Test from a year ago I did showed all 6 cylinders above what nissan standards were new. Oil comes out like it went in and I other than lucas trans crap and the occasional straight octane booster I don't do snake oils.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

swap maf

Whostheboog

Hey you've helped me before and I just thought I'd say thanks again. I have tried a couple of the ones I have. They both lived behind over oiled k&n filters though. I can unplug them and the car dies. Datascan2 shows them reading but not sure if they're in spec. I don't trust them and went ahead and ordered new. I'm hoping but not counting on it. I have had the strangest luck with these cars. What about the tps circuit code I had thrown. When I did and continuity test on the brown tps connector before I discovered the oil buildup at the ecm connector the ground showed no resistance of course but the other outside wire 5v I believe is what it's supposed to be it had a glitch but .7xx resistance to ground which I'm assuming means a short to ground? Didn't get a chance for a retest after cleaning oil mess because it started pouring rain. Also there is a buzzing from the tranny that seems to be in conjunction with the throttle and changes pitch as the throttle is applied and let go. I noticed if the tps is I guess way out of adjustment but still within fsm allowed tolerance it will be constant even if no throttle applied.i had already planned on maf. But in the meantime while I wait I thought I'd post some of the symptoms, what's been done, and ask what else I could check. It's sucks how smooth it idles, cranks, all the money, work, and yet I'm terrified of that it's going to find a way to die. So far every overwhelming thing I've had to reach out for help, info, and advice for these 2 cars ends up being a unique problem and symptoms seem to always be bits and pieces of several different directions. That's why I'm so worried about getting this maf. I wish I'd never done the lim, took throttle body restriction out, did headers instead of replacing cats, and the k&n filters. Not to mention hitting a deer in glee was a big set back as well.

Whostheboog

Granted what few mafs I do have seem to work... they are very decrepit looking, have been inline with over oiled k&n filters, and rolled around separate from their housings in parts bind I'm still keeping and installing the new own one in route. However that didn't seem to be the answer to the problem at hand. Adjusting these (2k and 2k1) tps sensors according to protocol must be done strictly and in my case working, a beautiful 11 month old, and the chaotic unpredictable schedule that comes with warming the vehicle was tedious, attempting to make adjustments cold was uneventful, and of the billions of times i had the thing adjusted but couldn't get the idle to fall within specs was confusing to say the least. Datascan 2 which has been there with me since the beginning gets a big shout out. The data display settings allowing me to view the closed throttle switch, tps voltage, and wide open tps activities made the multimeter obsolete. In the end though using both methods with the feeler gauge was starting to make me feel discouraged. I kept reading threads of people mentioning .4v and .6v being the target voltages. I kept ending up with either .4v, .6v, and high idle. On the flip side I could nail target idle, get idle relearn to successfully complete, and was technically in specs at .18v. The drawback was my trans slipping like 300,000 mile teenage driven civics, bucking in first gear like it wanted to face plant, and hesitation in park and neutral with light throttle. What seemed to be The big fix all was adjust tps without feeler gauge in pursuit of the target .4v-.6v range via datascan 2 as my gauge, after it was in spec removing the brown cable, ignoring completely the 5 second rule, I'm not sure if I went over or not but I noticed that if you didn't hurry and plug it back in the tps voltage would slowly rise to 5v. When achieved the idle would fall within spec. Now heres the last step I discovered I had been missing right after idle falls within spec, cable still disconnected, the closed throttle switch indicator in the bottom tray of datascan 2 turned red, on, or closed. When.l quit worrying about the 5 second rule, it didn't take me an hour to accidentally stumble upon this, and I didn't even use a feeler gauge to set it. I did however go back and double check the results with the feeler gauge and it was on point. The more I involve datascan 2, it's massive availability of live sensor monitoring, the more it helps me fix, prevent, and even in cases like this work around the atrocious workflow the fsm is so famous for. Datascan 2 people. It's cheap, it does keys, clears codes, timing, and most of all saves money.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Whostheboog

Sorry for the delay. Started back to work after the holiday. As for the tps affecting the drivability this way it was the problem. The reason I was do focused on it even though an equal part of my research pointed the maf direction (which I am still waiting on and replacing upon arrival) was like I said right after the intake port job when these symptoms sprouted up abruptly after reassembly and the few times I drove her I got a weird tps trans related wiring open or short code pertaining to the closed throttle switch. Hit the org, fsm, and internet hard as usual. Found some 4th and 5th gen tsbs explaining the egi harness bend wire breakage and knowing I had no tps problems before hand and highly doubted I killed the sensor when i took it off to clean the tb and when I reinstalled it I set the voltage and then set the switch (wrong) which came out about .18v (wrong) but was within specs I thought it had to be the wiring. Frustrated and in possession of a truck I parked her. When dude head on killed my truck it was back to wiring inspections. To eliminate frustration, peace of mind, and not trusting any of theboarts I had since miss matched with the currently p0505 5 speed I ordered the new own iacv, oem tps, three right (rear) oem coils, replacement coil connectors (new no green tab style for convenience mostly), new oem ignition condenser for both cars from courtesy, new gram ultra synthetic filter, clean entire intake system again to assure there was no oil (throttle body with tb cleaner, uim, maf with maf cleaner, and crc all connectors), installed, adjusted new parts, and was better but still bad. That's when I found the ecm oil and just before had ordered new mad thinking both may have been bad. Truth is I thinknmy maf is fine but based on every one else's statements I wanna see if it will still help. Peace of mind if it doesn't will still suffice though. Oem of course. But the problems and I found plenty of confirmation was the tps. I finally stumbled on a couple of people that stated that the lower ranges of the tps specs would actually cause the problems I was having even though the fsm stated within spec. I cannot tell you How hard it was and how much reading and re reading I did to stumble on these figures. Dirty rotten internet I suspect... so my new problem was getting the the closed switched to register close at the .4 to .6 range... I didn't realize it at the time but I was about to blow my mind all over the place. When I adjusted that tps and unplugged that brown tps connector and ignored the plug it back in within 5 seconds rule... ibwasnt counting but I'd say it probably was in fact 5 seconds almost exactly same spot id been at a million times even with the 3 old tps that I already have all oem... the voltage had risen to 5.something and almost simultaneously for that green off light on datascan 2 on data display at the bottom where I had designated a spot for the closed switch turned to the long awaited red on indicator with the voltage at .4 something I believe. I was blown away. I thought my tps was bad, my way was bad, and I had so many doubts because of all the other things like the maf that could be the cause I never imagined that I was almost there so many times. My car had no power, slipped from 1 to 2, slipped bad from 2 to 3, drank gas, had weird hesitations, and the drop resistor unplugged kinda helped. Every single symptom was instantly alleviated, the maf seems to be functioning but because of age, several cleanings, peace of mind, and curiosity of more unknown power when it arrives I'm still installing and keeping it. One reason is I know when I did the headers and k&n around the same time I knew to expect low end loss. I couldn't bark the tires on a floor it take off. Not even a chirp. When this problem happened it was even worse. But seeing as I do think that cleaning the maf was a contributing factor to this in the coincidental low end power gain. It was functioning before though just a little flittery. Tried to lay that out for you just and anyone else that may also have this problem. Don't feeler gauge the closed throttle switch to set anything. Only do that as a test once you've already set it. For the sake of sanity, tps (and other sensors) connector safety, and time savings sake get datascan 2 and put the multimeter away (to whom else may read this besides the individual I'm responding to he knows what's up). You can live monitor just about any crucial sensor and you have the ability to do so to about 20 or so at once all of which you Taylor to whatever you need at that particular time. If I didn't explain anything clearly or more detail is needed please respond and let me know. I know people on here and other forums don't believe in spoon feeding. I'm not saying they're wrong. But I have a different belief on it. These forums were designed to help the car enthusiast world with ascertaining repair info that's otherwise unaffordable, misinformed intentionally, and frowned upon public awareness of. The people I order spoon feedings and The reason I do this is for the ones out there like me. Mechanically inclined, but no expert, willing to learn, can't afford another car, doesn't want one any way, researches countless hours because we have families to provide for, our cars need repairs that we would rather learn to do right, preventative maintenance, and I do this in hopes that someone will not go through what I go through each time i post one of these. Other members here and elsewhere don't agree with that and I feel they may not know how hard someone is struggling. Let me know if anything else needs clarified here's some post screenshots I managed to dig up.

Whostheboog

Screenshots

Whostheboog

Whostheboog

I have 2 things to run by you. I am sure these should constitute new, seperate, and one of them maybe in the forced induction threads instead of the 5th gen threads. But since I've already got you replyable if the conversations are significant I'll be glad to make separate ones. First thing is wideband forced induction related and although datascan 2 has that feature it's more valuable to me running data display and having a wideband gauge asside. Anyways project 5 speed was sought after, the one I got was relatively well selected, and I have had plans for it since way before I even started looking. Plans that although are taking time I've covered alot of ground already with what I got. The 5 speeds literally a high mileage daily driver with some body damage, almost 200k, p0505 (as far as I can tell the ecm is fine but am aware it can look it and not be fine), a bad input shaft bearing (the one thing I was unaware of and ignorant of the existence of and didn't know to look for), other scheduled repairs needed. All of which even now I'm not regretting purchasing it because I paid $1,100 for it, the compression Test came out above the charts as well, it's had the factory fed spec exhaust, no fart can, shift ****, "racing" pedals, and the factory intake. It was owned by an older gentleman who didn't like automatics and not abused. I bought it to have a street fun car, and the automatic is the daily. I'm planning on turbo charging it. Not out to set any maxima bars, 3.5 swap, or sink unreasonable money in a car with only so much potential. I was planning on the turbo being the expensive part that i really would spend a chunk on. Not for a particularly high boost capability but for longevity, peace of mind that it wouldn't be as likely to grenade the motor via loose debri I've read the ebay (Any cheap) turbo housings as well as the manifolds can have, and assurance of do it right the first time I suppose. Then my dad and I discussed it and he actually to my surprise recommended I go ebay (cheap). Told me if I did my research is find that of countless ebay turbo companies some of them make worthy products, still cheap to replace if issues arrise, and quoted myself back to me by saying "You told me yourself that the 3.0 was significantly cheaper to replace if destroyed beyond rebuild". Can I ask your opinion on them and if there's and ebay company I may need to consider? Further research showed me these motors are reasonably accommodating to more boost than I hadn't initially planned to be able to run stock internals but learning what I learned decided to cease research for rods, pistons, and being able to afford a final product even sooner. I even read that the factory own replacement rings and bearings were still recommended should the motor hold out until a rebuild. So rebuild cheap, replace entirely cheap, and now even the another potentially hefty expense seems substituted as well adds up to better fuel management setup, wideband monitoring, and means of doing the remote mount trustworthy. I'm getting anxious just don't know which cheapo to buy. Doing remote mount because I don't want it crammed under the hood drawing hot air, going through the trouble of fabricating (ironically the trade im in) a manifold to keep it located in the confines heat abundant engine bay, sourcing a manifold to do so it out of the question, the idea of making sure the exhaust to the turbo is leak free no matter if stock or hand built, and running inlet piping to the front are worth the minimal turbo lag for not fighting fitment sake. You happen to have an opinion whether different or modifying what I've got brewing? I'm mixed on whether or not to Interpol would be information definitely taken intonxonsideration. Megasquirt as well. the second thing is my gle's current p0174 code bank 2 fuel lean. EBay headers, primary 02 sensor installed, secondaries metal zip ties free hanging.