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Looking for Reasonable Labor Costs - CV Drive Axles
Hello good people!
I am still new to this page so, please treat me with kid gloves until I learn more about my 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE. As some of you know that I bought it a little over two weeks ago and all it needs is both CV Drive Axles. Looking at various Videos from 1A AUTO Parts, the need to take partially down the Lower Control Arms is mandatory as you will not be able to remove and replace the CV Drive Axles. Since you have to almost remove the Lower Control Arms, I am willing to replace those as well.
I am shopping around for the best labor deal and the two Pro Shops that I have been to almost always giving me two separate estimate line items. One for Drive Axles work and a totally separate estimate line item for the Lower Control Arms! I mean the Lower Control Arms need to be lowered and they will be hanging by the one rear bolt that contains the ball joint. My questions "IS" is it reasonable for a Pro Shop to charge me almost double on separate line items? I am willing to pay a little more so, both Lower Control Arms are completely removed and replaced but, double is perhaps highway robbery to me.
You do not touch control arms. They're lying (or maybe just stupid) to squeeze more money. Unbolt strut and tie rod, that's it.
And, no, it's not reasonable, b/c even if you needed to do that, a control arm is loosened in 60 secs (it's on a lift, so stupid easy to do everything). They want to **** you over.
Find a small shop with good reviews or a local member.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 09-25-2019 at 03:18 PM.
IMO, the best way is to unbolt and pop loose the ball joint then swing the knuckle out of the way. This way you won't have to get an alignment. I've done this a ton.
IMO, the best way is to unbolt and pop loose the ball joint then swing the knuckle out of the way. This way you won't have to get an alignment. I've done this a ton.
That's the hardest way, b/c the nut is under the CV and doesn't come off easily anywhere where it snows. Knuckle moves far enough with just tie rod (and strut) undone. Turn it all the way to one side (one way works, can't remember which) and push down while compressing the CV and pulling it out.
Damn, your car is clean! Looks nicer than mine with twice the miles!
Axles are easy. I'd give you a hand if you were in/near Tampa. Otherwise, go to a shop, tell them what child said: Remove wheel>remove axle nut>remove tie rod>remove lower strut mount>pull axle, replace and reverse, and be done with it. Don't touch the brakes, don't jack with the control arm, don't do anything else. Alignment if you feel like it. These cars don't misalign when doing this job.
That's the hardest way, b/c the nut is under the CV and doesn't come off easily anywhere where it snows. Knuckle moves far enough with just tie rod (and strut) undone. Turn it all the way to one side (one way works, can't remember which) and push down while compressing the CV and pulling it out.
We have snow and salt in Philly, not a big deal. Notice I said best and not easiest.
Your way works great if you want to change your alignment by undoing the strut bolts. There's play between those 2 points and it might not seem like much, but it can change. A ball joint is center on center every time.
We have snow and salt in Philly, not a big deal. Notice I said best and not easiest.
Your way works great if you want to change your alignment by undoing the strut bolts. There's play between those 2 points and it might not seem like much, but it can change. A ball joint is center on center every time.
Alignment does not change at all. You can easily see where the nuts were positioned if you're worried about a slight difference in camber. Center the nuts on the circles and tighten her down.
Good luck removing ball joint nut with a wrench lol. It's a hard time to just get the pin out (drill time basically). Even my impact hates me. On two, I've had to cut the nut off when replacing arms!
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 09-26-2019 at 04:07 PM.
I've done it the way I suggested multiple times and on different cars. I've also done a dozen or so alignments on my own. Everything I said is accurate.
I'm debating taking it in or doing myself. Is it as basic as it sounds? If frozen at carrier bearing then disconnect mounting bracket and pull axle out?
Some other threads I've read say what a pita. And then others say it's not bad at all...????
A shop wants 220 for psgr axle. Napa wants only 60-ish for rebuilt.
Went ahead and did both Drive CV Axles and Lower Control Arms plus Sway Bar Bushings.
One person here who posted is correct, you don't have to touch the Lower Control Arms in order to replace the Drive CV Axles, however, at 214,000+ original miles I decided to do them ALL.
With Labor Discounts the entire job Labor plus Lower Control Arms and Engine Oil Pressure Switch were $910 US and the Drive CV Axles from A1 AUTO was an additional $154 so, for a grand total of $1,064.00 including local taxes.
Last edited by guapoman2000; 10-29-2019 at 10:28 AM.
Shopped around for the best price quote for the Engine Rear Main Seal and the winner "is" the Tire Pro Shop that I always go to!
1. They were the cheapest because of course I have used them before and have brought them several cars before.
2. Most experienced mechanics you can find in my area! They work on anything, including my old 1987 BMW 325i Convertible.
3. Replaced the Engine Rear Main Seal (3.0 Liter Engine).
4. Replaced ALL Automatic Transmission Seals.
5. Replaced the Driver's side CV Axle Assembly and gave me a deal (discount). Yes, the one I bought from 1A AUTO prematurely failed for the Driver's Side.
SUMMARY:
Yes, the Engine's Half Moon Seal (Front) is slightly leaking but, the most offending was the actual Engine Rear Main Seal and it was getting worse and I feared that the Engine would run without Oil and now I have worry free driving.
No more ugly Oil Leaks and stains on the Driveway or Road side area.
Most of you see this as a Money Pitt but, to me a satisfying manner to do the Job correct the first time and without losing any bolt or nut as having an experienced Mechanic with rapid and careful methods is worth every penny!
Last edited by guapoman2000; 11-13-2019 at 08:19 PM.
Another $1,146.52 Cash (including Local Taxes, Shop fees and other unexpected stuff).
Unexpected Stuff: If you look at my very first post in this thread, I purchased the dual pair CV Drive Axles from 1A AUTO and this very same Tire Pro Shop installed them for me and the driver's CV Axle was found busted internally. I knew there was something wrong because every time I commanded the car to turn RIGHT it made an ugly noise down in the driver's side.
This Tire Pro Shop perhaps began to feel sorry for me so, they ordered a new Dirver's CV Drive Axle for a Cool $77 US and didn't charge me any Labor since they had to take this Drive Axle Out to remove Transmission anyway.
Additionally, the Previous Owner purchased the WRONG serpentine Engine Drive Belt (Alternator & AC) and every time I turned ON the AC it SQUEALED like something terrible. This Tire Pro Shop was the one who discovered it and the rest didn't understand why! Well, this Tire Pro Shop replaced both the Serpentine & Power Steering Belts.
Okay, the entire Labor for Replacing the Engine Rear Main Seal was originally QUOTED at $800 US CASH and this was a Reduction from $1150 US as I have a very good relationship with the OWNER. He was NOT there two days ago but, the Lead Mechanic called the Owner who was at another location and I was able to rekindle his memory of our conversation about the reduced $800 Labor and he talked to the Desk Attendant who adjusted the Price.
If you REALIZE that TIRE KINGDOM QUOTED ME a Whopper of $360+ just to do the Engine Drive Belts (Serpentine & Power Steering) and forget even asking for an Estimate for the REAR MAIN SEAL!!!!! I just politely said I will be in touch and LEFT and went straight to the other Tire Pro Shop that Quoted me the $800 and did GREAT because the ENTIRE WORK including the Engine Drive Belts (Serpentine & Power Steering Belts) plus Driver Side Axle and all the work with Engine Rear Main Seal and ALL Automatic Transmission Seals came to a mere $1,146.52 is a STEAL IN MY BOOK.
Okay, I have a little over $2,000 into this Maxima since the work involved was done by a Pro Shop (The Same Pro Shop) plus I have verified that their Prices was the best since I have shopped around. There "IS" NO WAY that I would do this at home with just JACK STANDS, the limited tools and Electric Impact Gun would just not be sufficient for the Large and High Torque demand on the Lower Control Arm bolts and other angles that would be required and that ONLY a PRO Lift can provide.
I have retained the BUSTED UP Driver's CV Drive Axle for an Adjustment from 1A AUTO. We Shall See about this........
It's a clean car, definitely deserving of the work and money to keep it on the road. Now keep 5k oil change intervals and here's to the next 100k!
Thank you for those kind words and YES INDEED it is a much better Car for me than my 28 year old 1992 Toyota Camry XLE that had 534,831 original miles. I sold that to a nice gentleman who needed a little more Fuel Economy as he was driving a large and heavy JEEP. It needed Paint and a few little things but, it was 98% mechanically perfect as almost everything was replaced including a complete RACK & PINION, Steering Pump and Hoses plus too many to list. I sold it for a cool $1,500 CASH and this went toward my present ride, the MAXIMA GLE.
The Maxima has a great Paint Job and Love the Color as it Glows during the Sunset.
It has gobs of power and handles fantastic.
I am happy with what I got and most especially, I DON'T HAVE a AUTO LOAN PAYMENT! Which was my goal.
For those that own and drive 5th Generation Maxima then, here is my 2000 Maxima GLE at Sunset with it's Sunlit Sand Metallic Paint Job really makes it almost Glow during the right angle at Sunset. You can see somewhat from the Pictures but, in person and with the naked eye you can appreciate it as the Maxima transforms itself into another car given the Paint job properties and how the Sunset rays hits it.
Well, I have owned this fantastic Maxima for almost one solid year September 2019. I have invested $1,500 in repairs and new suspension parts plus dropping Transmission for replacing the Engine Rear Main Seal and all Three Automatic Transmission Seals as the Transmission was on the floor. New CV axles and other parts has transformed this Maxima like new.
New Tires have given my Maxima a new feel and hugs corners like new. New rubber for Central Florida driving with all the rain showers is a very important item.
Guapoman2000, are you still monitoring this thread? I'm just wondering about the axles you ended up with. I take it the right side is one of the two you purchased from A1 Auto, and the left was purchased and installed by your mechanic. Do you know the brands? Are they working OK regarding noise and vibration?
Guapoman2000, are you still monitoring this thread? I'm just wondering about the axles you ended up with. I take it the right side is one of the two you purchased from A1 Auto, and the left was purchased and installed by your mechanic. Do you know the brands? Are they working OK regarding noise and vibration?
You are correct. Right Side is the A1 Auto TRQ brand and the Left is from Auto Zone.
That is all I know and yes, they are working like a charm.
These are perhaps the least expensive part(s) that I had to deal with from the overall things that I had to do on my 2000 Maxima GLE.
You are correct. Right Side is the A1 Auto TRQ brand and the Left is from Auto Zone.
That is all I know and yes, they are working like a charm.
These are perhaps the least expensive part(s) that I had to deal with from the overall things that I had to do on my 2000 Maxima GLE.
Thanks! I ordered new Moog control arms from Rock Auto yesterday, but have decided to buy the Import Direct passenger side axle from O'Reilly. This appears to be the Suretrak/Trakmotive axle sold by Rock Auto, but buying local will make it easier to return if there's an issue. All these aftermarket axles seem to be a crap shoot, and I don't want the car laid up for two weeks because the axle has to be boxed up and shipped back.
You know, I was reading a discussion elsewhere, and there seems to be some concern about all these companies using neoprene boots. Supposedly, neoprene splits or cracks in 2-3 years under the best of conditions. Oh well, guess if I get that much additional use out of this car, it's worth it. It's only 75K miles, but all the rubber parts are failing now from age. I replaced the boots on the OEM driver side axle a couple years ago. Struts and motor mounts will probably be next.
Update: My 2000 Maxima GLE is still running smooth, fast and idles like a kitty cat!
I have the same vehicle. Several times a year, someone leaves a note on my car asking if I'm willing to sell it. The Arizona sun has been rough on the paint, but it runs very well, no leaks, maintenance is up to date and no repairs needed, so it's not for sale. Registration and insurance is cheap. Tires are good for another 5 years, so maybe I'll sell it in 2023-2024, or maybe not. If the A/C system fails, that could be a problem. Phoenix had 144 days of daily high at least 100 F this year.
09-25-2019, 02:13 PM
