MichMaxFan

So I changed front rotors and pads and drive side brake hose. Couldn't loosen psgr hose without potential damage so that's for another day.

Akebono pads. Greased all pins. Pedal grabs quickly but not firm. Never had this before.

Reservoir never ran dry. Bled with multiple pumps and probably 12-16oz or more of prestone dot3. No different than other times I did brakes on this car.

Any suggestions? Could it be the sunsong hose?

I'm not pleased with results. I can get abs sensor to trigger on dry pavement but pedal doesn't feel firm.

cdoublejj

same problem here, i bled and bled and bled and bled and bled but, i also found out the cap must be on tank, you must close of bleeders before the pedal hits the floor. must remove battery cable blah blah. maybe have a shop power bleed if they have a true power bleeder with an adapter to fit your fluid reservoir. idk man.

MadMax07SL

Yeah, modern brake systems aren't as straight forward when it comes to bleeding or swapping the fluid. I'd just pay for a fluid flush at the dealership personally. Costs about $80, mostly labor cost. If you got a coupon from the dealership, that the time to use it.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Sometimes the calipers are just shot even if they worked fine before. If correctly bleeding a big bottle through it doesn't work, then just swap on 6th gen brakes. I had this problem. Brakes worked fine before pad change. Pedal went to floor when braking. Replaced master cylinder. Pedal went to floor. Replaced all calipers with "good" ones from wrecked car (we owned this car). Pedal went to floor. Replaced hoses. Pedal = floor. I did hours of bleeding, so that doesn't work lol. Air never entered and I cracked bleeders, so gunk wasn't pushed into ABS.

Swapped on 6th gen brakes = brakes work fine. Front calipers were trash and wouldn't work after compressing piston. The rears must've been fine all along, b/c all I did was swap the front and they instantly worked.

Those hoses are good, I used them. Bleed with 32 oz bottle and a hose (into bottle) over bleeders, so you can pump nonstop if you don't have the setup already. I've used vacuum bleeders and they're useless (does it faster, but zero difference in a difficult to bleed situation).
Does the pedal stay hard and in place if you push really hard with car off? You know master is good if so and there's no air. That's why I was so goddamn confused. Everything was showing it was fine, but they just didn't work.

MichMaxFan

I did not crack open bleeders when compressing piston. That could be my issue but never done that before. Opened reservoir cap but that's it.

Fluid was changed 1-2yrs ago so not really old.

Seems odd that both calipers would have gone bad at the exact same time. Could be abs system but hope not.

Pedal will move a little with car off but not much when pressing but I don't force it by pushing really hard.

I bled again and its no better. Did all 4 with battery unplugged. Wife says they're fine but she also said she couldn't notice any difference in the new rotors either. ("Really????")

cdoublejj

i bought all new reman calipers, and i got the nice dot 5.1 (not 5) Motul for the high boiling point.
man for $80 i'd have them fluid or bleed them so long as they used my fancy new fluid i already bought.


mine are roc hard off and spongey at low speeds like stopping at the drive way pedal goes down way further like it did with tired old brakes. i replaced EVERYTHING but, the lines and ABS blocks, stainless steel hoses, motul, fluid, slotted rotors, Akebono pads, and hopefully not bad reman OEM calipers as well as a new master.

fyi that new master didn't instill confidence either, i guess the first few pumps are dry when you can't bench bleed it and it sticks some but, you'd think she'd pass air bubble when bleeding if it was a bad master. all bleeders pointing up!