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That car is all stock. If anything in that area is flexing 2mm you have bigger problems. That amount of flex will fatigue metal very quickly and breakage will soon follow.
I hear ya. Wheel flex isn't even something I had ever considered for a production car until I started reading all the BS the internet had to say about it during this brake research endeavor. God I hate people.
I have maybe 3mm clearance with my current setup. I would neither be worried about 2mm. Car wheels don't "bend" like any retard who says they do. Steelies on a track, maybe... But only about 0.0000013 people fit that category.
The washers I used to test fit the wheel with the caliper bolted to the knuckle:
It barely cleared, but not everything is exactly lined up and final at this point. The question now is should I run a 3mm, or 5mm spacer...
5mm spacers (2 washers) between the knuckle and caliper tabs to center the disc. I could theoretically grind down the outer pad protrusion thingy (up top, inside with the disc) and push the caliper medially another 1mm without any problems. This disc is also 28mm wide, whereas the 2-piece rotor is 32mm wide:
All the hardware used to mock everything up was just spare parts for the sole purpose of getting an eyeball on everything. I presume some dimensional changes will occur with proper hardware, but not to any detriment to proceeding with the project.
I think I will source 6mm mounting spacers, grind the inner pad sliders 1mm, and run a 3mm wheel spacer. This would give me 3-4mm caliper to wheel clearance.
I'm also going to source longer studs. I can only get 6 turns til snug with the lug nut. 9.6 turns=bolt diameter @ 1.25 thread pitch, M12. So I need 4.5mm longer stud to retain minimum safe specs.
Just got off the phone with Z1 Motorsports. They don't have any blank 14" rings left!!!
I am so bummed! We pieced together a pair of two-piece in slotted only. Oh well. I'll find a blank two-piece set somewhere later.
Rotors should be here early next week, then I can eyeball everything, get the calipers on the mill and make a couple of rotor clearance modifications to the calipers. Then I can blast them and coat them. Then rebuild them. Gotta figure out tires next and get the rest of the wheels on the way.
Unfortunately, this wheel is not sold with any less of an offset than +35mm, which is what I have. So I will have to run a spacer in the rear as well, instead of making up the difference with say, a +25mm offset.
13” Cobra rotors came in the mail today. Ironically, a pair of these ‘fancy’ rotors from Hawk came out to the same price as just one single rotor from the discount brands, since they were on a closeout sale. These rotors are HEAVY. Thankfully all those extra pounds will be negated by the 5lb weight reduction per wheel that Im going to get when I switch from the OEM 17’s to these gorgeous 17x8 Enkei’s:
Enough of my humble bragging though, lol. Im curious what you guys will be doing with brake pads. I have a set of Hawk pads for my Z32 calipers that still have tons of meat on them. As nice as they would pair with the rotors, im actually looking to find pads that are very non-aggressive. The idea is to put crappy pads on the front, and the most aggressive, metal shredding pads known to man on the rear - that way, I wont be messing up the brake bias as drastically. Any suggestions for an aggressive pair of pads to run in the rear? (Edit: so far “EBC Yellow’s” appear to be the most aggressive pads available)
I'm going to grab a set of EBC Yellows as well as a low-dust, quiet, street pad, not sure which yet. Yellows can be noisy. I'll probably just go with an OEM Cayenne, Q7 or Touareg pad for daily driving.
I'm already looking at the rear because I will have to do something as well. I'm working on a 14" rotor and Brembo 4 pots. I'll talk to the guy that sold me the front brackets and see if we can do anything for/if he already has a bracket that is compatible but I will probably be on my own for rear brackets. No big deal. I won't be running the E-brake so I can remove the handle from the center console and use the space for stereo stuff, which is a good thing.
Nice wheels! Pretty sure those are also on the list to clear the 17Z 6 pots, even at 17". What is the model number?
This is a pretty ambitious project to take on, I admire your persistence! I take it you're doing this just to see if it can be done, and not for any specific purpose? I want to see the proportioning valve install and tuning
The wheels I got are Enkei Kojins, 17x8 40mm offset and right about 19.5lbs. Im not sure if they would work with the 300zx 13” BBK since I think you need 35mm offset, but since Im running 10mm front / 15mm rear spacers, it wont be an issue for me.
Those rotors must have cost you a god damn fortune lol. They weigh practically the same as the 13” rotors I bought! Pretty crazy how big of a weight difference 2-piece rotors make, perhaps one day Ill have to spoil myself with a set.
What kind of tires will you be running if you didnt already state that? For 6 piston calipers youre gonna want (ie; NEED) some sticky icky tires to handle all that stopping power.
Also wanted to mention something I read regarding large rotors - apparently some people have issues where they get a slight wobble at specific speeds due to harmonic resonance in the brake rotor. Hawk claims their slotting design has a second feature, which is to eliminate that resonance. I know you are looking for blank rotors, but perhaps getting ones that are slotted would actually provide real benefit beyond just looking cool? Again, just something I stumbled across - no idea how prominent that problem is or isnt, but I figured its worth chewing over.
This is a pretty ambitious project to take on, I admire your persistence! I take it you're doing this just to see if it can be done, and not for any specific purpose? I want to see the proportioning valve install and tuning
I'm doing this just because it's so ridiculous. I like brakes and always wanted 6 pot Brembos on something. Once this is finished, I'll post a parts list and installed dimensions. Ill update post #1 to indicate the success and in what post the needed info is. I don't need these, and this is a project car/daily driver, these aren't for any track purposes.
Rotors will be here tomorrow. I spoke with Russ at Z1 Motorsports yesterday and he could only find one blank ring. Blank was not an option in the drop-down menu on the site, which is why I called. Covid had everyone working remotely so it was hard to get ahold of him to get this sorted out. We were able to put together a par of rotors in slotted only. The only options on the site were sprinkle slotted and drilled and slotted, neither of which I wanted. Blank was my preference, but slotted is what I had to settle for.
At $550 for this pair, the price wasn't that bad compared to other two-piece kits from other manufacturers, which can reach up to a thousand dollars a pair and more. I've never heard about vibration or resonance issues. These are Nissan spec'd rotors that are upgrades for the 370Z, included in Z1's Akebono upgrade kit.These rotors are rebuildable, but should I ever need another set of rings, I'll be limited to sprinkle slotted or drilled and slotted.
I'm going to continue looking for a two-piece pair in blank only. Maybe I'll cough up the dough for them, maybe I won't care anymore. I've read reports of guys getting 100k miles out of these rotors when not used on the track,so I won't be needing new rotors any time soon.
The wheels I got are Enkei Kojins, 17x8 40mm offset and right about 19.5lbs. Im not sure if they would work with the 300zx 13” BBK since I think you need 35mm offset, but since Im running 10mm front / 15mm rear spacers, it wont be an issue for me.
You're on spacers? What did you do about extended lug nuts?
For tires, I have a set being shipped to my local Mavis Tire Center for mount and road-force balance. I'm going with the same ContiProContact I'm running now. I love them. Grippy and good in rain.
I am also however, entertaining the idea of a cheap set of these:
I have actually read good things about these! And at only $260 for a set? I think I might actually try them out! That's less than I paid for the calipers! I could buy three sets of these for the price of one set of the Continentals!
The spacers I am using are from H&R and have studs built into them. That way, the stock studs are used to attach the spacer to the hub, and the spacer’s studs are used to attach the wheel. The benefit is having full lug torque while not having to use longer studs that will have much more strain on them than regular length studs. I dont think they have that setup for anything shorter than a 10mm spacer though. Ive had them since my 1st maxima and theyre still running strong with zero issues whatsoever.
I never heard of that tire brand, then again I know little about tires. Im getting General G-Max RS UHP summer tires (245/45/17), first set of summer tires I will ever have owned so Im pretty excited to see the difference in grip -especially considering that im coming from pathetic thin chinese brand winter tires that are half balded already lol. They even had a $70 rebate so that pretty much equates to a free balancing + installation.
It sucks trying to learn about alternative brands because the only way is to try it yourself. People online tend to rave about tires they own, because they need to justify their purchase, while completely shtting on anything less expensive as being trash, despite never actually using the less expensive tires. Not to say they are wrong or right - it just seems convention is based more on popular opinion rather than on actual evidence.
In any case, tires are arguably the single most important component of the car. Im all for learning but for me, Ill just stick to what the reviews and ratings say is good. Not an area to skimp out on, lol.
The spacers I am using are from H&R and have studs built into them. That way, the stock studs are used to attach the spacer to the hub, and the spacer’s studs are used to attach the wheel. The benefit is having full lug torque while not having to use longer studs that will have much more strain on them than regular length studs. I dont think they have that setup for anything shorter than a 10mm spacer though. Ive had them since my 1st maxima and theyre still running strong with zero issues whatsoever.
I never heard of that tire brand, then again I know little about tires. Im getting General G-Max RS UHP summer tires (245/45/17), first set of summer tires I will ever have owned so Im pretty excited to see the difference in grip -especially considering that im coming from pathetic thin chinese brand winter tires that are half balded already lol. They even had a $70 rebate so that pretty much equates to a free balancing + installation.
It sucks trying to learn about alternative brands because the only way is to try it yourself. People online tend to rave about tires they own, because they need to justify their purchase, while completely shtting on anything less expensive as being trash, despite never actually using the less expensive tires. Not to say they are wrong or right - it just seems convention is based more on popular opinion rather than on actual evidence.
In any case, tires are arguably the single most important component of the car. Im all for learning but for me, Ill just stick to what the reviews and ratings say is good. Not an area to skimp out on, lol.
That's an interesting take on the bolt-on wheels spacers, I have always felt better about running extended studs with removable spacers. Specifically ARP wheel studs, because I know they are probably as strong as they can get. One way I look at the bolt on spacers is that you now have twice as many potential failure points. Stock studs certainly aren't the strongest things out there, and who knows what grade metal the studs are on the bolt on units.
I too won't skimp on tires, they're the only thing connecting you to the road. I trust tire tests, mainly Tire Rack, Discount Tire Direct, and Grassroots Motorsports, but some other magazines run tests as well. But you're right, I've never ran back to back comparisons between the least expensive and the most. Often what you're paying for is longevity and how the tire behaves as the tread wears down, which you won't know from a short test on new tires.
Ain't no way in hell they were going to fit inside an OEM SE 17" Maxima rim! 6th Gen have only .040" to .060" clearance with the spokes. and that 6 piston caliper is 2.5 times larger!
Originally Posted by User1
Nope! See post #22.
They were loosely installed the adapter wasn't even fabbed yet! Hell you didn't clear the 18" 370Z wheel without interference....Good luck with your experiment.
They were loosely installed the adapter wasn't even fabbed yet! Hell you didn't clear the 18" 370Z wheels. So if you believe that, install those 17" SE rims and make a video of your first drive with them installed....Have a fire extinguisher near!
"Nope" as in no, they will not work in stock 17's.
"Nope" as in no, they will not work in stock 17's.
I know there's barely enough for the 6th Gen Caliper the clears the spoke with about .040" - .060" to spare! Those huge 6 pot calipers probably need another 1.5" to clear....Good luck you can save some more room threading the adapters and make it easier to assemble!
I know there's barely enough for the 6th Gen Caliper the clears the spoke with about .040" - .060" to spare! Those huge 6 pot calipers probably need another 1.5" to clear....Good luck you can save some more room threading the adapters and make it easier to assemble!
I ordered all the fasteners in the last couple of days. They are slowly starting to filter in. It was really hard to find an M16-1.5 x 50mm bolt for the caliper-to-bracket tabs! 2mm pitch is way more common.
That's an interesting take on the bolt-on wheels spacers, I have always felt better about running extended studs with removable spacers. Specifically ARP wheel studs, because I know they are probably as strong as they can get. One way I look at the bolt on spacers is that you now have twice as many potential failure points. Stock studs certainly aren't the strongest things out there, and who knows what grade metal the studs are on the bolt on units.
ARP studs definitely are the best option, no doubt about it, but they are very expensive - which calls into question, are they actually needed? Since my spacers are hub centric, all of the shear forces are being subjected onto the center hub, rather than the studs - the studs are just holding it on. ARP studs are probably overkill for our cars, unless its a *****-to-the-wall purpose built track car. Even then, I dont think theyre necessary, assuming the spacers are from a reputable company. Mine are from H&R, who are known for quality - they even recommend this “bolt on” spacer setup for use on the GTR, and people apparently track them all the time with zero issues, I cant find any instances where they failed. So if they work for the GTR, I think they can withstand whatever my rinky dink maxima can throw at them.
Now, chinese wheel spacers on the other hand... youre practically playing russian roullete except every chamber is full and every round is a hang-fire. Youre getting shot in the face no matter what, its just a matter of when.
EDIT: You did just point out a major flaw in the setup I was going to run. The hubcentric spacers are not going to fit if im using centering rings for the 13” rotors, since the spacers are meant to fit over Nissan hub diameter, not Ford. With the 13” rotor centering rings, these spacers are not going to fit, I dont think.
So, Wilwood makes setups for mechanical/hydraulic rear parking brake, but of course, nothing specifically for Nissan. Though I'm sure something could be figured out... https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/Br...%20Brake%20Kit
That's cool for you! I use mine for parking. My driveway has a significant slope and I use command start more than 6 months of the year, so can't leave it in gear.
That's cool for you! I use mine for parking. My driveway has a significant slope and I use command start more than 6 months of the year, so can't leave it in gear.
Compustar? Viper? Something else? Full-featured alarm with remote start is climbing on my list of priorities the closer I get to getting all my stereo crap installed.
Compustar? Viper? Something else? Full-featured alarm with remote start is climbing on my list of priorities the closer I get to getting all my stereo crap installed.
Mine is "Astrostart", there's all kinds of brands but from what I can tell it seems like only a few manufacturers. Mine is very similar to Viper. Anyway, just remote start functions for me, no alarm.
Mine is "Astrostart", there's all kinds of brands but from what I can tell it seems like only a few manufacturers. Mine is very similar to Viper. Anyway, just remote start functions for me, no alarm.
All hardware finally sourced. Rather than mess with stud replacement over 3mm, I went with these ET, tuner-diameter lug nuts that give me more than sufficient engagement with the 3mm spacer. I'm just waiting for a Dremel bit to come from Amazon to do the material removal on the calipers for rotor clearance. Once get that finished, I'll pull a wheel, bolt everything up and check clearances. Then I'll powder coat (found a $40 oven on Craigslist finally) and rebuild them and finally get them installed with the SS lines.
Seems there were minor issues initially due to a confusion with part differences over the years but overall opinion sounds positive. Definitely worth investigating at the very least. Wish we had better options for calipers just for the bling factor but as far as performance goes, this should work perfectly to rebalance the brakes after doing a front BBK. If this dude is still making the kit im 100% going to be buying it.
Seems there were minor issues initially due to a confusion with part differences over the years but overall opinion sounds positive. Definitely worth investigating at the very least. Wish we had better options for calipers just for the bling factor but as far as performance goes, this should work perfectly to rebalance the brakes after doing a front BBK. If this dude is still making the kit im 100% going to be buying it.
I've got that kit installed in my car and am quite happy with it. IIRC I had some fitment issues when installing it, check the early pages of my build thread for details and resolution. If they still make it, buy it!
Saw that kit and threads a while ago. Never tried to get ahold of him. Looked like a nice, easy upgrade. If he no longer makes the kit, I'll soon have a parts list with brackets for a 14" rear 370Z Sport rotor and 4 pot Brembo calipers but it won't have an E-brake. Cost would be around $600.
Picked up some stuff. Decided to grab the blast cabinet and do everything myself rather than take calipers to machine shop guy for sand blasting. New 4 piston rear calipers showed up yesterday. I threw the 14" rotor in and it does indeed fit inside the caliper with 1mm clearance on each side. I may shave the block protrusions a mm or so for peace of mind. All calipers will be refinished the same color. I can go ahead and order the Z1 one-piece 14" front rotor set to run in the rear. It'll work but I'm on my own for caliper brackets. No big deal.
oh, they are cady brembos or someone painted that on there? i liked the dirty sleeper vibe during mock up, i like low key but, ain't no 6 pot fitting fitting in no stock 5th gen 5 spokes.
I thought my G35 Brake caliper thread outlined the issues with FWD/RWD brake conversions, guess not lolol.
I've been trying to get Jacob to make actual brackets for our cars, but he doesn't respond to me anymore. I've been in touch with the guys who copies these brackets and have had much better success, just need to send them a test spindle.
Sad thing is I purchased a 5.5, 6th gen and 7th gen maxima and sent Jacob @ Eximinous all of our Spindles and I told him how to adjust the brackets and he hasn't done a damn thing about it.
I'll message Jacob again. I have a set of 18z's in a box as well collecting dust even though I don't really have a use to such a large caliper on my vehicles but it would be nice....
Last edited by aackshun; Jun 16, 2020 at 10:53 PM.
I thought my G35 Brake caliper thread outlined the issues with FWD/RWD brake conversions, guess not lolol.
Could you bless a brother with a tl;dr? Just ran through all four THICC pages of that thread and Im not quite sure what you are referring to, information overload lol. All my BBK stuff (Z32 13” front, Fastbrakes 12.3” rear) is already ordered so it honestly wont make any real difference for me but Im still curious.
Could you bless a brother with a tl;dr? Just ran through all four THICC pages of that thread and Im not quite sure what you are referring to, information overload lol. All my BBK stuff (Z32 13” front, Fastbrakes 12.3” rear) is already ordered so it honestly wont make any real difference for me but Im still curious.
Not too sure I understand his point either. Anyway, you're fine either way. I've been down the path you are on and you're good to go with your equipment.
Opinions on whether or not grade 8.8 bolts are G2G for front brake caliper brackets? Just going over my kit and making sure I have what I need and noticed thats what grade bolts I currently have. Im seeing some mixed opinions over what is suitable and what isnt, just wanted to get some thoughts on that. Last thing I need is to go through all this time money and effort only for the bolts to shear and kill me lol.
EDIT: some more digging had told me that while grade 8.8 bolts will “probably” be just fine, the next step up, 10.9, definitely will. On that note, Id rather not have a $1000+ brake system fail because I was too cheap to spend a couple of extra bucks on hardware lol. 10.9 it is.
