Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

2002 automatic with 267k miles. I suspect my stock motor mounts to be... shot... based on age and how it feels when i accelerate anymore than average. Will doing the mounts do wonders? Is it silly to do the mounts now? I just did a full tune up around 254k, and plan to keep the car going as long as reasonably possible. I want to feel my car accelerate properly again, it has plenty of power but is not being put to the ground all that well. There is this lag now that is really bad, also sometimes a loud thud or clunk during the lag before taking off. Is there any issues when replacing the mounts in regards to electric aspects of the mounts? I take it there are 4 total, and i believe only 2 are electric?

I have inspection coming up and that would be the time to do it at my trusted shop. Thanks for any insight.

I thought about poly, but ehh prolly just keep it simple, im guessing stock replacements it would do wonders from where I am now.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9186988

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...or-mounts.html

two good recent threads, i totally forget about how the disconnect works tho on the electric atuo mounts to manual mounts. any check engine lights?

gosh dang, i d k what to do ...sigh

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

reveiws from ES motor mounts, which i am now tempted again to look into vs OEM.
ES Poly Motor Mount Link


can any one comfirm how this works on automatics? im confused on the dissconect part and how the ECU wont be missing that connection when swapping to non elec poly mounts.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

ECU doesnt care about the electronic motor mount. To my understanding, it is a one-way street, voltage goes to the mount but nothing comes back to the ECU to interpret. In any case, there is no CEL for it, theres no internal diagnostic the ECU can perform to determine there is a problem. The ECU wont know or ‘care’ whether or not the mount is plugged in or not. Even if it hypothetically did, its something that could be bypassed with a simple resistor.

HIGHLY recommend the ES motor mounts. Really keeps the motor firmly in place so all the torque generated gets transferred to the road rather than allowing some of that energy to torque the motor around. You will need M/T mounts though, as the A/T mounts are a different size. If you end up deciding to buy some, I have a set of red ES motor mount bushings for sale, Ill beat whatever price they go for online. Youll still need to get the mounts themselves though, best bet is the junkyard.

EDIT: I am assuming that you have not done this, but get under your car TODAY and unplug your electronic motor mount. Extremely common problem where the liquid inside the mount leaks, gets on the connector, and causes a short which burns out your ECU and leaves you stranded.

Theslaking

I haven't swapped my max yet but I just did it in my son's 98 Civic. Went from worn stock mounts to solid mounts that I made myself. Unbelievable difference. Takes bumps better, albeit stiffer, accelerates better, handles better. It really feels like a different car. I can't wait to renew the max now.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

thanks dude, i kinda remember it may have been your thread describing that ECU nightmare.i will attempt to check it out soon
and also i am confused on the fitment, it says on the ES bushing site that the mounts replace the automatic ones too but just not electric. i didn't know there was a diameter fitment change in Manual VS Auto though
and can i ask why you have the red ones? we all know the black ones are better? did you make your own?
thanks for the input, ! sounds ideal! ... decisions decisions.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Not my thread, never owned an auto maxima, I think off the top of my head that was krismax? But its definitely a thing to be wary of. As far as diameter differences, to the best of my knowledge the front motor mount is the same, but the rear is slightly larger on autos to fit the electronic motor mount. Maybe that accounts for the discrepancy? Again Ive only owned M/T maximas so my knowledge on A/T features is cursory at best.

I currently have red on my car with no issues. Its really for looks - anyone looking can clearly see its an ES bushing, rather than black which blends in. Just really makes it stand out as another mod for anyone who knows what theyre looking at. The only benefit with the black ES bushings is that they are impregnated with some form of silicone( i think its silicone?) lubricant that helps mitigate squeaking. For the motor mounts this isnt an issue, IIRC you are not supposed to use any lube for installing the motor mount bushings, so I would not surprised if the black ones here are the original formula that doesnt have the self-lubrication that their newer formula does - originally the only difference between the two was color. So, in the context of motor mount bushings, the color makes no difference beyond cosmetic.

You ABSOLUTELY want the black bushings for control arm and sway bar bushings. My current max actually had the red ones from the previous owner, and I went and ripped them out to replace them with black ones to get rid of squeaks, which btw, was an extremely sh*tty PITA job that required me to burn them out. In any case, you wont be getting squeaks from the motor mount bushings regardless of what color you go with. The ones I have are genuine ES, not DIY window weld - which to my knowledge is a step up from OEM but not as stiff as ES.

Edit: just to add, 95-03 all use the same front + rear mounts. Might make it easier to track a set down.

Edit2: Another point to add, you will get slightly more vibrations with ES bushings. I dont think its really noticeable, its not something a 3rd party would be able to notice but you probably will since its your car. If you are **** about such things you could simply dampen whatever is vibrating and problem is solved. I strongly recommend going full ES bushings if your car is anything more than a point A-B vehicle, they make a huge difference in reducing wheel hop, which is what kills axles, which in turn are not getting any easier to find in good quality. If you only use the car to putt around to work and get groceries, you probably wont see any benefit at all since you wont be pushing the car to the point where these things make a difference.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

appreciate all the insight! and yes i have black sway bar bushings installed ! they are sweet, and sitting around i have rear trailing arm black bushings and subframe black bushings...
and i looked into the DIY bushings and they have various levels of stiffness, and it seems you can get equal to ES stiffness from DIY and even stiffer depending on the hardness chosen.
DIY bushing details

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

link about leaking mount frying ECU


nice how to thread on mounts

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

ok so here is my idea, i am going to get cheap o mounts for only front and rear, gut them and use DIY poly for them. then hand them to my mechanic to install. does it matter that i use the cheap-o mount brackets to host the DIY poly ?? is the bad thing with the cheapo mounts just the rubber longevity? or does anyone know if the cheap-o mounts have other issues?

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

or i could buy slamrods red poly bushings, and get cheapo manual mounts and press them in etc, then hand to my mechanic.

Theslaking

Back to my son's Civic - I got cheap mounts to begin with and they didn't bolt up! One hole on the mount was a couple centimeters off. Maybe hit up eBay or car-parts.com for used ones.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...-mounts-2.html

great thread talking about DIY poly stuff on the org.

Theslaking

http://www.uscomposites.com/moldmaking.html

All of US Composites stuff is good (that I tried). This is where I get my fiberglass and structural foam.

80 is a racing firm hardness 60 is what you want. Much stiffer than stock but not crazy.