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False. I can't believe this myth is still alive. ECU "reflash" or "remap" is slang and isn't even a "thing" outside of a dealership scam. To reset the ECU to factory state (as indicated in the FSM), kill it by DC'ing the battery for 24hrs or long enough to drain the pcb caps and you're done. Plug it back in/reconnect the battery and start the car. Or give your money to Nissan.
Yet again another myth.
Per the FSM EC71:
"Idle Air Volume Learning
NFEC1188
DESCRIPTION
NFEC1188S01
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume
that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be
performed under any of the following conditions:
I Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
I Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
As for the rest of you knuckleheads, OP has a dead accelerator pedal. I have a good pedal if you want it. Let me know.
EC page 304-316 P0226, P0227, P0228
Is that normal for the pedal to suddenly need to be replaced? Could it just be a sensor, or a pedal stop? Something with a simple fix? Is there something I could check for to make sure it's the pedal? I don't want to throw money at this. I also don't know what I'm doing, but I'm trying to learn. I know very little about using a multimeter but with good instructions, I'm willing to give it a shot. Same with using the program to do anything. I just need some direction and I'm willing to give it a go.
MJP- I have followed you over from the Gen8 forum. I think you are on the verge of just throwing money at this problem IF you don't troubleshoot this problem by-the-book, and by this I mean a Maxima tech manual. Based on the codes you recorded, your problem could be the PCM, could be either one of the accelerator pedal position sensors (as I SWAG'ed) when you posted in the Gen8 forum, or could be the MAF (which I am leary of based on the codes you read), or could be as stinky as some circuit wires in that pedal position sensor circuit shorted, grounded, or open. If it were mine I would take it to a pro that knows these cars. I have many years experience and have been where you are before. Your choice however, and I wish you well no matter which path you take.
I appreciate the advice lol I definitely don't want to throw money at it. It's in need of that money on some clunky sounds it makes when he goes over bumps. I'd like to just get this handled as easily as possible. We can't get it towed anywhere. If anything, we'd have to hire a mobile mechanic 😟
For me I had the same issue and it was the throttle relay that was the problem. Check to see that the contacts aren't corroded.
I'm trying to compile a list of everything I need to check so that it can be done all at once. I have limited time to fool with it for the next few days and it's hotter than hell here in louisiana. I'll definitely add this to the list. Where is the relay located? I know that I can find out for myself if need be lol
Well, I cant tell you if the cleaning damaged the sensor, but I can tell you that the MAF is almost certainly dead simply based on the codes and the cars behavior. If you want to know for sure, youre in luck, because you can use the datalogging features of NDS2 to do that. Go into the datalog tab, and you should be able to configure it to monitor practically anything you want that the ECU is capable of monitoring. Set one of your variables as “MAF Voltage”. I think you hit “browse” which basically is asking you what you want to name the .log file and where you want it saved. Figure that out, and start the logging, and start your car. Now, you need to go to the Factory Service Manual (FSM), page EC-198, and look at the troubleshooting guide there - heres the link to the FSM chapter youre dealing with.
It says to use a multimeter to check voltages at different RPMs and such, but we arent barbarians stuck in the year 2002 when that was written, we have NDS2! Just do all the RPM tests a couple times each while datalogging, and you can then end the datalog, and check out the voltages on a nice graph at your leisure wherever you saved it to.
((EDIT: it would probably make more sense to use the ‘Data Monitor’ function instead. Same thing, just lets you view it in real time; something like this is straight forward enough where you wont need to look at graphs or anything unless you want to. You can also log the data while using the Data Monitor function, so do both if thats what you prefer))
I can already tell you that your MAF is done for, so that entire procedure wouldnt tell you anything more, but its an option if you want to see for yourself. As for replacements, best bet is the junkyard. If youre buying new, it MUST be OEM, which is manufactured by Hitachi, and will run you around $250. Junkyard or ebay will be a fraction of the price, of course, since itll be used. However, you are now equipped to test for yourself whether or not the new unit functions! Aint NDS2 the best?
In the future, I would only use rubbing alcohol to clean the MAF, not spray cleaner. Wet a Q-tip with alcohol and ever so gently, as if it were a strand of spider web, clean the sensor. I cannot stress “gently” enough, it is an incredibly delicate part. You can just unscrew the sensor out of its housing to get at it, just make sure you dont drop it.
Since he was already told that he needed one, should I even bother with checking it? Or should I move on to checking the throttle, pedal sensors/relays (and whatever else I need to check but can't think of right this second lol)?
Is that normal for the pedal to suddenly need to be replaced? Could it just be a sensor, or a pedal stop? Something with a simple fix? Is there something I could check for to make sure it's the pedal? I don't want to throw money at this. I also don't know what I'm doing, but I'm trying to learn. I know very little about using a multimeter but with good instructions, I'm willing to give it a shot. Same with using the program to do anything. I just need some direction and I'm willing to give it a go.
Download the Engine Control section, and start with your P2122 code on p649
P2127 starts on p656. The MAF may still be fubar, as well as the throttle body. Moving the butterfly valve while the TB is energized can ruin the motor. Run through the work flow for the MAF code as well.
Books suck though. The throttle body does a function check/sweep/ice breakage operation by opening and closing at a low angle every time you start the car. The stepper motor in the throttle body can be heard when this happens. Can you turn the key to the "ON" position without starting the car, and with no foot on the gas pedal and verify the stepper motor actuating? Put your son's ear under the hood while you turn the key. If you can't hear anything, then hell if I know. I'd have to start digging through the FSM.
I think the TB relearn is under "work flow" in NDSII. I don't remember.
Do not use carb cleaner on anything. They make different cleaners for different components for a reason, like not ruining sensitive electronic components. Besides, this car doesn't have a carb.He probably used it on the MAF too.
Since he was already told that he needed one, should I even bother with checking it? Or should I move on to checking the throttle, pedal sensors/relays (and whatever else I need to check but can't think of right this second lol)?
You cannot test the MAF. There is no FSM procedure for that. I would get a used one or a cheopo from ebay (like $15 bux or less, I don't remember) and use that to rule it out. But if I was keeping the car, I would get a brand new factory Hitachi MAF. The importance of a good MAF is truly understated.
Edit: My mistake, there is a non-Consult II procedure in the FSM to test the MAF under the P0101/2 codes. Not sure what I was thinking. It is 2am here.
Last edited by User1; Jun 13, 2020 at 11:15 PM.
Reason: MAF test page EC194
Download the Engine Control section, and start with your P2122 code on p649
P2127 starts on p656. The MAF may still be fubar, as well as the throttle body. Moving the butterfly valve while the TB is energized can ruin the motor. Run through the work flow for the MAF code as well.
Books suck though. The throttle body does a function check/sweep/ice breakage operation by opening and closing at a low angle every time you start the car. The stepper motor in the throttle body can be heard when this happens. Can you turn the key to the "ON" position without starting the car, and with no foot on the gas pedal and verify the stepper motor actuating? Put your son's ear under the hood while you turn the key. If you can't hear anything, then hell if I know. I'd have to start digging through the FSM.
I think the TB relearn is under "work flow" in NDSII. I don't remember.
Do not use carb cleaner on anything. They make different cleaners for different components for a reason, like not ruining sensitive electronic components. Besides, this car doesn't have a carb.He probably used it on the MAF too.
OK thank you. I know that the car wasn't on when he "cleaned" the tb. He just opened the flap, sprayed brake cleaner, and wiped. He did use maf cleaner on the maf, but he didn't remove it. He just sprayed all over it while it was still connected 😔😔
The car was never running or on at any point as this was before he could get it started and he was just fiddling with things. I'm looking at the cans of brake cleaner and maf cleaner that he's left sitting on the floor of the garage. I can pretty much tell what he's used and done so far as he's left everything sitting out lol
Brake cleaner on the TB? Brake cleaner eats powdercoat off my brake parts. Acetone and solvents. Check the label, contact cleaner and brake cleaner are close, but not the same. The brake cleaner he used may damage electronics.
Car doesn't have to be "ON" for damage to occur. By "energized" I mean battery connected. This is standard stuff for any electronically controlled vehicle.
Didn't pull the MAF to clean it? Just sprayed the outside of the plastic housing while it was installed and connected? Are you sure he's safe to be driving an automobile?
Might wanna put a leash on him before he destroys something else.
Brake cleaner on the TB? Brake cleaner eats powdercoat off my brake parts. Acetone and solvents. Check the label, contact cleaner and brake cleaner are close, but not the same. The brake cleaner he used may damage electronics.
Car doesn't have to be "ON" for damage to occur. By "energized" I mean battery connected. This is standard stuff for any electronically controlled vehicle.
Didn't pull the MAF to clean it? Just sprayed the outside of the plastic housing while it was installed and connected? Are you sure he's safe to be driving an automobile?
Might wanna put a leash on him before he destroys something else.
Good luck.
He's definitely on a leash now. I didn't know that he was doing any of this. As stated before, he owned an 82 Chevy s10 for a year before this. He never had to worry about sensors and didn't realize that he was messing things up. Now I just need to help him correct the problems and get him to SCHOOL. He has much to learn lol.
I'm laying here unable to sleep and wondering something...
We tried relentlessly to do pedal tricks to pull the codes. It never worked, even with a timer. Would that be because the pedal isn't working? Does that help me narrow things down lol? Guaranteed maf sensor replacement. He possibly ruined the throttle body. The pedal not working to even retrieve codes COULD point to a bad pedal (or pedal sensor), right?
I'm laying here unable to sleep and wondering something...
We tried relentlessly to do pedal tricks to pull the codes. It never worked, even with a timer. Would that be because the pedal isn't working? Does that help me narrow things down lol? Guaranteed maf sensor replacement. He possibly ruined the throttle body. The pedal not working to even retrieve codes COULD point to a bad pedal (or pedal sensor), right?
The latter two NDSII codes in your first post tell you that your pedal isn't working.
P0102 is a low voltage MAF code. Low voltage is due to lack of airflow, dirty sensor, etc. The sensor component itself is just a heated resistor. It's a thermal sensor. It's probably fine, unless the previous owners jacked with it. He didn't even remove it from the housing. Has it ever been removed from the housing? Who knows. Pull it and do a proper cleaning. Clean the housing screen, check for leaks in intake circuit, blah blah blah.
Tap on the accelerator pedal sensor housing (lightly) with a screwdriver handle or something then try starting the car. Listen for the TB sweep, etc. whatever. Stupid stuff until you take the dive into the FSM.
I doubt that the maf was ever removed. He got the car from an older gentleman who took it nissan for everything, including oil changes, from day 1. If it was removed, it was done by nissan.
We'll clean the maf correctly, and tap on the accelerator sensor in the morning. My son is currently looking for a new maf to order. He just wants to get the best price and a good part. Still don't know if we need just the sensor or the housing as well. I assume just the sensor...?
I truly appreciate all of y'all helping. It's a lot of information to take in, and it gets a bit confusing, but I'm going to filter through all of the posts to make sure that we're covering all of the suggestions. The new maf is definitely going to happen regardless. It's too bad that we don't have a junk yard nearby.
1) Clean MAF
2) Start car
3) Clear codes with NDSII (throttle pedal function may return after codes are cleared, ask me how I know)
4) Perform Idle Air Relearn with NDSII
5) Post results
1) Clean MAF
2) Start car
3) Clear codes with NDSII (throttle pedal function may return after codes are cleared, ask me how I know)
4) Perform Idle Air Relearn with NDSII
5) Post results
Ok. I'll get to that some time today if weather allows
My bad bro. I just don't want to break anything lol.
Found these little pieces on the floorboard right around the pedal area. My son couldn't tell me what they were from.
I used a small flathead and got the sensor out of the housing. I just didn't want to break anything earlier lol. I wiped all of the contacts very carefully and returned it to the housing. The screen and housing got cleaned while I had the sensor out. Once it stops raining it's *** off, I'll continue.
Those green pieces concern me. I found where nissan has "stops" for the brake pedal that look exactly like what I found. I wasn't sure if there would also be a stop like that somewhere on the accelerator.
Or if it did come off of the brake pedal and that affects the accelerator also....?
Fair enough lol, I forgot how tight that sensor can be in there if it has never come out before.
Im not familiar with the accel pedal stoppers but I had that issue with my brake pedal. The stopper broke and fell off, which left a little button not being pressed when the pedal was up - leaving my brake lights on all the time. My solution was gluing a penny where the stopper was and never worrying about it again.
Maybe its similar with the accel pedal, where theres a button on it that gets pushed in when the pedal is fully up? In any case, its there for a reason, although I personally dont know what that function is. Just tape/glue a coin where you need to and you should be good to go, if you get in there with a flashlight and feel around you should probably be able to find a little round button somewhere in there. I wouldnt bet on it but perhaps that would explain your accel pedal codes.
Fair enough lol, I forgot how tight that sensor can be in there if it has never come out before.
Im not familiar with the accel pedal stoppers but I had that issue with my brake pedal. The stopper broke and fell off, which left a little button not being pressed when the pedal was up - leaving my brake lights on all the time. My solution was gluing a penny where the stopper was and never worrying about it again.
Maybe its similar with the accel pedal, where theres a button on it that gets pushed in when the pedal is fully up? In any case, its there for a reason, although I personally dont know what that function is. Just tape/glue a coin where you need to and you should be good to go, if you get in there with a flashlight and feel around you should probably be able to find a little round button somewhere in there. I wouldnt bet on it but perhaps that would explain your accel pedal codes.
Sounds good lol I'll do that as soon as I get home in the morning. I'm on night shift tonight.
I did snag some pictures of the top of the accelerator assembly earlier. Not sure if that helps with anything, but it does kind of look like something goes in that hole
Shutup. There are some people that should not be working on cars. Wizard recognizes this and is why he is quiet (full disclosure, I am speaking for him) and sounds out. I have sounded out. This thread is dead, and there will be no resolution. OP, take it to a mechanic.
I thought you quit, and why the strong tone? I've never heard anything except helpful tips on this site before. Peace brother. Actually I think this is a very good thread and I'd really like to hear about the resolution, either as a DIY or even from a qualified repair facility. This is how we learn. And MJP, loved those photos, especially the close-ups of the business end of the MAF. If you look carefully you can see that little MAF wire hangin' in there on the left side. That tiny little guy is what all the cautions have been about.
I for one have no problems answering questions even if they are somewhat redundant. Its easy for us to forget how ridiculously complicated all of this stuff is for someone with little to no experience. Trying to learn procedures, what different parts are, what they do, where theyre located, what different terminologies mean, whats right and whats wrong - all at the same time, without wanting to screw anything up because the consequences of doing so is typically permanent and expensive, AND in addition to whatever bs it is they have on their plate in real life outside of the topic of cars - is a whole lot to digest at once. Just reading that sentence back is enough to spin someones head, let alone actually living that condition with all the stress that comes attached with it. Been in those shoes, thats where I started, and I wouldnt have gotten to where I am currently in terms of automotive knowledge if it were not for the patience of others. Every once and while Ill stumble across a post I made 5+ years ago and cringe at how stupid I sound lol, reminds me to stay humble.
But hey, Im also told I am far more patient than most, so no fault to anyone whose patience has run out lol. I actively enjoy writing, especially when whatever it is that I am writing is helping others. Not to bring any foo foo nonsense into this discussion but I am a pretty firm believer of the Law of One in regards to the topic of Service to Self versus Service to Others. Its a principle that could be considered core to practically every religion and/or spiritual movement ever.
Shutup. There are some people that should not be working on cars. Wizard recognizes this and is why he is quiet (full disclosure, I am speaking for him) and sounds out. I have sounded out. This thread is dead, and there will be no resolution. OP, take it to a mechanic.
Originally Posted by User1
Shutup. There are some people that should not be working on cars. Wizard recognizes this and is why he is quiet (full disclosure, I am speaking for him) and sounds out. I have sounded out. This thread is dead, and there will be no resolution. OP, take it to a mechanic.
It will go to a mechanic in 2 to 3 weeks when my son has the money to do so. As of now, we're doing and learning what we can while we wait. More importantly, we're trying not to mess anything else up while we wait. If we manage to get something fixed, and save money, what's the problem? I've never worked on anything before. I was never around anyone who did. This entire thing is new to me, and I'm trying to absorb the multitudes of information, as well as remembering what needs to be done and how. I thought I did a pretty damn good job at getting that maf out without hurting anything lol. It was a royal ***** but I finally, and GENTLY managed to pull that sucker out without do much as putting a dent in the housing around it. I appreciate the help, but am not quite sure why you say I shouldn't work on the car 🤷♀️ I may be overly cautious, which causes me to be slow, but hell I'm trying lol
I thought you quit, and why the strong tone? I've never heard anything except helpful tips on this site before. Peace brother. Actually I think this is a very good thread and I'd really like to hear about the resolution, either as a DIY or even from a qualified repair facility. This is how we learn. And MJP, loved those photos, especially the close-ups of the business end of the MAF. If you look carefully you can see that little MAF wire hangin' in there on the left side. That tiny little guy is what all the cautions have been about.
Thanks lol I was worried about that little thing. I should have taken a pic once I got it out lol I was just glad that I managed to get it out safely 🤣
I pulled my ridiculous post. But I kept the one with tho most awesome Cypress Hill song.
The Kryptonite-looking crap is called a brake stopper. You have two of them. Eat it. I did. $14 each at my dealer but my parts lady loves me so she gave them to me for free.
That they were green means ****all to me but apparently they've been replaced before.
Clean the MAF, DELETE codes, send your son to engineering school, report back.
MAF has been cleaned. It's back in the car, the battery hasn't been connected yet. I'll do that in the morning after he wakes up. Im involving him in this as much as possible because no one ever taught me **** about this stuff, and I'd like him to at least know more than I do when he's my age.
About the green stopper... I'll look at the brake assembly to see if anything is missing. Maybe I'll get a picture just in case I'm not looking in the right spots.
I've come across a couple of videos stating that there is supposed to be a stop pad in that hole I found at the top of the accelerator....but they weren't for an 02 max. One was a 2003 max and the other was a 350z. In both videos, they installed a bolt to take the place of a stop pad. They say that without the pad, the ecu doesn't register that the pedal is there.
I could be way off track now 🤦♀️
I'll see if I can link the videos for you to see what I'm seeing. If I'm off base, let me know lol
Well, if thats what you managed to dig up, Id say that would explain why you are getting codes for the pedal not functioning. 2003 is literally identical in every way to 2002, so all that info still applies to you. Pretty much all car manufacturers try to use the same parts and engineering across their lineup to cut down on costs, so it wouldnt be a stretch to say that even the 350z setup is the same concept.
I think you have it figured out! Start with fixing your pedal using a bolt/coin/etc to take the place of that stopper, and see what happens. Once thats dealt with, go ahead and test your MAF voltages using NDS2.
Well, if thats what you managed to dig up, Id say that would explain why you are getting codes for the pedal not functioning. 2003 is literally identical in every way to 2002, so all that info still applies to you. Pretty much all car manufacturers try to use the same parts and engineering across their lineup to cut down on costs, so it wouldnt be a stretch to say that even the 350z setup is the same concept.
I think you have it figured out! Start with fixing your pedal using a bolt/coin/etc to take the place of that stopper, and see what happens. Once thats dealt with, go ahead and test your MAF voltages using NDS2.
Just got done putting a bolt in there. We have acceleration! The cel light is off (knock on wood). Will drive it a bit and see if it comes back lol. Thank you ALL for your help!
I'll post an update after a drive to let y'all know if the light comes back. I guess we'll hold off on buying the maf until we see what happens. 🤷♀️
Same problem caused by small plastic spacer on pedal
I had the same thing happen to me this morning on my '02 GLE. Backed out of the garage and the SES light came on and had no accelerator. Hooked up an OBDII reader and got a P0227 code that says "Throttle Position Sensor". I did some research online and started to crawl up under the dash to look at the throttle position sensor to check the electrical plug. As I started to get down into the floorboard I noticed several small green pieces of plastic in the floorboard. Turns out these pieces are the stop for the pedal at the top near the throttle position sensor. Unfortunately it doesn't seem that you can replace just this plastic piece, so I have ordered an accelerator pedal assembly that should be here tomorrow. I have included some pics of this $200 piece of plastic, where it was, and the assembly after I removed it. Joy!
Last edited by blue02max; Jun 16, 2020 at 07:55 AM.
I had the same thing happen to me this morning on my '02 GLE. Backed out of the garage and the SES light came on and had no accelerator. Hooked up an OBDII reader and got a P0227 code that says "Throttle Position Sensor". I did some research online and started to crawl up under the dash to look at the throttle position sensor to check the electrical plug. As I started to get down into the floorboard I noticed several small green pieces of plastic in the floorboard. Turns out these pieces are the stop for the pedal at the top near the throttle position sensor. Unfortunately it doesn't seem that you can replace just this plastic piece, so I have ordered an accelerator pedal assembly that should be here tomorrow. I have included some pics of this $200 piece of plastic, where it was, and the assembly after I removed it. Joy!
You absolutely can replace just that piece. Maybe not with exactly what fell out, but its just a stopper, anything capable of doing the same function like a coin will work. Theres no reason you should be paying $200 for a new pedal when you can repair the one you have for about $0.10.
And I did after reading over some of the other posts. Found bolt with the same depth head as the plastic piece and put in in there. Works just like it should now. Thanks for the updates. :-)
And I did after reading over some of the other posts. Found bolt with the same depth head as the plastic piece and put in in there. Works just like it should now. Thanks for the updates. :-)
Glad you got it fixed! Also, you can order the stop pad by simply googling "2002 maxima brake stop pad". There are different cars that it shows up for, but they're all the same. I believe Amazon had them for about 9$ shipped. Much easier to go with the bolt though 😊
All you managed to do was re-title your thread and erase the advise you were already given.
