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Seeing that my original post was in the wrong forum, I'm starting over here. I apologize.
My son's 2002 maxima does not respond at all to the accelerator being pressed. It does not rev at all. About a week ago, his car wouldn't start, just cranked. He cleaned the maf sensor and replaced a coil pack (Hitachi from rock auto). The car starts just fine now but it doesn't respond to pressing the accelerator.
I tested all fuses in the kick panel and near the battery with a multimeter set to ohms. They all seem fine.
These are the codes that I pulled today with NDSii. (I'm new to this whole thing so please excuse any stupid questions I may have)
Last edited by Mjp2231; Jun 13, 2020 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: Add year of car
Sounds like the MAF is toast. What did your son clean it with, and how did he clean it? Be as detailed as possible. The MAFs for these cars are extremely delicate, there is a special coating on the hot wire that is VERY easy to take off and if that happens, goodbye MAF. You pretty much have to treat it as if you were trying to clean a single spider web. My guess is that your son was not aware and accidentally the whole thing.
Sounds like the MAF is toast. What did your son clean it with, and how did he clean it? Be as detailed as possible. The MAFs for these cars are extremely delicate, there is a special coating on the hot wire that is VERY easy to take off and if that happens, goodbye MAF. You pretty much have to treat it as if you were trying to clean a single spider web. My guess is that your son was not aware and accidentally the whole thing.
He "says" that he uses maf cleaner. I know that he did buy the cleaner, but I can't be 100 percent sure if he tried something before that. He also said that he didn't take the sensor out. He said he took the air box off. Spray the maf (while still in place), then took the air filter out and sprayed it from that side. Then he sprayed the very top of it. All of this without removing the actual sensor. (He said that he was scared to take it out because he's break it).
He then used brake cleaner and opened the throttle flap, sprayed brake cleaner inside and a cloth to wipe it out.
He is a teenager and this is his second vehicle. The first he had for a year and it was an 82 Chevy s10. He was used to that old kind of engine and admits that he doesn't have a clue when it comes to the "newer" stuff with all of the sensors. 🤦♀️
Your last thread was in this exact forum. All you managed to do was re-title your thread and erase the advise you were already given.
As stated, start by looking at the MAF.
Quarantine brain? I don't even know 🤦♀️🤦♀️ I don't have an explanation. I apologize. Thanks for bearing with me. I'll eventually get this right....I hope lol
We'll definitely check out the maf. If a new one is needed, does it matter which kind we get? OEM?
Well, I cant tell you if the cleaning damaged the sensor, but I can tell you that the MAF is almost certainly dead simply based on the codes and the cars behavior. If you want to know for sure, youre in luck, because you can use the datalogging features of NDS2 to do that. Go into the datalog tab, and you should be able to configure it to monitor practically anything you want that the ECU is capable of monitoring. Set one of your variables as “MAF Voltage”. I think you hit “browse” which basically is asking you what you want to name the .log file and where you want it saved. Figure that out, and start the logging, and start your car. Now, you need to go to the Factory Service Manual (FSM), page EC-198, and look at the troubleshooting guide there - heres the link to the FSM chapter youre dealing with.
It says to use a multimeter to check voltages at different RPMs and such, but we arent barbarians stuck in the year 2002 when that was written, we have NDS2! Just do all the RPM tests a couple times each while datalogging, and you can then end the datalog, and check out the voltages on a nice graph at your leisure wherever you saved it to.
((EDIT: it would probably make more sense to use the ‘Data Monitor’ function instead. Same thing, just lets you view it in real time; something like this is straight forward enough where you wont need to look at graphs or anything unless you want to. You can also log the data while using the Data Monitor function, so do both if thats what you prefer))
I can already tell you that your MAF is done for, so that entire procedure wouldnt tell you anything more, but its an option if you want to see for yourself. As for replacements, best bet is the junkyard. If youre buying new, it MUST be OEM, which is manufactured by Hitachi, and will run you around $250. Junkyard or ebay will be a fraction of the price, of course, since itll be used. However, you are now equipped to test for yourself whether or not the new unit functions! Aint NDS2 the best?
In the future, I would only use rubbing alcohol to clean the MAF, not spray cleaner. Wet a Q-tip with alcohol and ever so gently, as if it were a strand of spider web, clean the sensor. I cannot stress “gently” enough, it is an incredibly delicate part. You can just unscrew the sensor out of its housing to get at it, just make sure you dont drop it.
Well, I cant tell you if the cleaning damaged the sensor, but I can tell you that the MAF is almost certainly dead simply based on the codes and the cars behavior. If you want to know for sure, youre in luck, because you can use the datalogging features of NDS2 to do that. Go into the datalog tab, and you should be able to configure it to monitor practically anything you want that the ECU is capable of monitoring. Set one of your variables as “MAF Voltage”. I think you hit “browse” which basically is asking you what you want to name the .log file and where you want it saved. Figure that out, and start the logging, and start your car. Now, you need to go to the Factory Service Manual (FSM), page EC-198, and look at the troubleshooting guide there - heres the link to the FSM chapter youre dealing with.
It says to use a multimeter to check voltages at different RPMs and such, but we arent barbarians stuck in the year 2002 when that was written, we have NDS2! Just do all the RPM tests a couple times each while datalogging, and you can then end the datalog, and check out the voltages on a nice graph at your leisure wherever you saved it to.
((EDIT: it would probably make more sense to use the ‘Data Monitor’ function instead. Same thing, just lets you view it in real time; something like this is straight forward enough where you wont need to look at graphs or anything unless you want to. You can also log the data while using the Data Monitor function, so do both if thats what you prefer))
I can already tell you that your MAF is done for, so that entire procedure wouldnt tell you anything more, but its an option if you want to see for yourself. As for replacements, best bet is the junkyard. If youre buying new, it MUST be OEM, which is manufactured by Hitachi, and will run you around $250. Junkyard or ebay will be a fraction of the price, of course, since itll be used. However, you are now equipped to test for yourself whether or not the new unit functions! Aint NDS2 the best?
In the future, I would only use rubbing alcohol to clean the MAF, not spray cleaner. Wet a Q-tip with alcohol and ever so gently, as if it were a strand of spider web, clean the sensor. I cannot stress “gently” enough, it is an incredibly delicate part. You can just unscrew the sensor out of its housing to get at it, just make sure you dont drop it.
LOL ok. Thanks for explaining all of that for me. Would the bad maf make the throttle completely unresponsive? My son said he's totally fine having to buy a new maf, but he just wants the car to MOVE because his semester starts in a week and he doesn't have any other way to get to school 🤦♀️
..... As for replacements, best bet is the junkyard. If youre buying new, it MUST be OEM, which is manufactured by Hitachi, and will run you around $250. Junkyard or ebay will be a fraction of the price, of course, since itll be used. .
I happen to be a mind reader and know his car is a 2002 lol. I was incorrect though, new Hitachi MAF is about $200, not 250.
I would STRONGLY advise against using rockauto if you can source from elsewhere, though. They are a “dropshipper” and quite literally have zero quality control. Theyre great for parts until theyre not, and you find out in the middle of your job that something stupid like an o ring is missing and youre utterly fk’d and stuck holding your dck in your hand for a week while waiting for a replacement part to arrive. I have half the side of my gun locker covered in their magnets so I feel I have an appropriate amount of experience with them to make such a judgement.
I happen to be a mind reader and know his car is a 2002 lol. I was incorrect though, new Hitachi MAF is about $200, not 250.
I would STRONGLY advise against using rockauto if you can source from elsewhere, though. They are a “dropshipper” and quite literally have zero quality control. Theyre great for parts until theyre not, and you find out in the middle of your job that something stupid like an o ring is missing and youre utterly fk’d and stuck holding your dck in your hand for a week while waiting for a replacement part to arrive. I have half the side of my gun locker covered in their magnets so I feel I have an appropriate amount of experience with them to make such a judgement.
Do we need just the sensor, or the whole housing setup?
Also, unless I missed it, I don't think anyone has ever said if the maf will cause the throttle not to react at all. I know that we need the maf, but is there something else wrong since pressing the accelerator doesn't do anything at all?
Wow I’m about to go clean my MAF right now. Possibly replace it. I have the infamous hesitation around 2-3k rpm. If it don’t work, I have do the ol’ remapping the ECU at Nissan yay! Hope you get that figured out brother. It’s always a pain in the *** when you have sensitive parts 😁
Wow I’m about to go clean my MAF right now. Possibly replace it. I have the infamous hesitation around 2-3k rpm. If it don’t work, I have do the ol’ remapping the ECU at Nissan yay! Hope you get that figured out brother. It’s always a pain in the *** when you have sensitive parts 😁
Can that be done now, or should it wait until after the maf is replaced?
I would wait until the MAF is replaced. Also, did you check on the other two codes? P2122 Accelerator pedal position sensor and P2127 Throttle position sensor. That should explain why you’re not getting any acceleration when you depress the gas pedal. I’m not sure if this is related to the bad MAF or because the throttle body plate was moved when being cleaned, but I would just start with replacing the MAF. Then try the relearn procedure.
I would wait until the MAF is replaced. Also, did you check on the other two codes? P2122 Accelerator pedal position sensor and P2127 Throttle position sensor. That should explain why you’re not getting any acceleration when you depress the gas pedal. I’m not sure if this is related to the bad MAF or because the throttle body plate was moved when being cleaned, but I would just start with replacing the MAF. Then try the relearn procedure.
Awesome. Thank you! I'll try to look into all of that 😊
DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT PUT HITACHI MAF 0095 IN YOUR CAR. IT WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR. IT IS NOT THE CORRECT SENSOR!!!
I already talked to amazon about this f’ing bullsht. They said they would fix the listing and clearly they have not. MAF0095 is for Pathfinders, MAF0099 is for Maximas. If you use MAF0095 it will cause you to lean out severely around 4k rpms and you WILL blow your motor eventually. I already contacted them again and told them to fix it today or Ill look into contacting a lawyer for a class action lawsuit. They were already made aware of the dangers of wrongly stating the sensor works for our cars, and told me they would fix it - and they didnt. For me this is personal, I already blew a motor because of this bs.
DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT PUT HITACHI MAF 0095 IN YOUR CAR. IT WILL BLOW YOUR MOTOR. IT IS NOT THE CORRECT SENSOR!!!
I already talked to amazon about this f’ing bullsht. They said they would fix the listing and clearly they have not. MAF0095 is for Pathfinders, MAF0099 is for Maximas. If you use MAF0095 it will cause you to lean out severely around 4k rpms and you WILL blow your motor eventually. I already contacted them again and told them to fix it today or Ill look into contacting a lawyer for a class action lawsuit. They were already made aware of the dangers of wrongly stating the sensor works for our cars, and told me they would fix it - and they didnt. For me this is personal, I already blew a motor because of this bs.
Oh wow! Thanks for letting me know. They need to pull that down 🤦♀️🤦♀️
Oh wow! Thanks for letting me know. They need to pull that down 🤦♀️🤦♀️
Yeah, they do. I am 100% serious about seeking legal action if they dont take it down by the end of the day. They need to fix that listing and issue a recall on every unit they have sold. Its absolutely infuriating because months ago when I found out about this problem, I spent a half hour explaining in detail to them the issue and everything, and was promised by a special case manager that they would fix it immediately. Which, clearly, was all lip service.
Yeah, they do. I am 100% serious about seeking legal action if they dont take it down by the end of the day. They need to fix that listing and issue a recall on every unit they have sold. Its absolutely infuriating because months ago when I found out about this problem, I spent a half hour explaining in detail to them the issue and everything, and was promised by a special case manager that they would fix it immediately. Which, clearly, was all lip service.
That's absolutely insane. You should totally seek legal action. I know things are "buy at your own risk", but when it specifically states that it is for our cars, they need to be SURE. Man, I hope you get things squared away. They owe you compensation, but at the very least they owe taking the listing down!
Awesome. Thank you! I'll try to look into all of that 😊
MJP- I have followed you over from the Gen8 forum. I think you are on the verge of just throwing money at this problem IF you don't troubleshoot this problem by-the-book, and by this I mean a Maxima tech manual. Based on the codes you recorded, your problem could be the PCM, could be either one of the accelerator pedal position sensors (as I SWAG'ed) when you posted in the Gen8 forum, or could be the MAF (which I am leary of based on the codes you read), or could be as stinky as some circuit wires in that pedal position sensor circuit shorted, grounded, or open. If it were mine I would take it to a pro that knows these cars. I have many years experience and have been where you are before. Your choice however, and I wish you well no matter which path you take.
MJP- I have followed you over from the Gen8 forum. I think you are on the verge of just throwing money at this problem IF you don't troubleshoot this problem by-the-book, and by this I mean a Maxima tech manual. Based on the codes you recorded, your problem could be the PCM, could be either one of the accelerator pedal position sensors (as I SWAG'ed) when you posted in the Gen8 forum, or could be the MAF (which I am leary of based on the codes you read), or could be as stinky as some circuit wires in that pedal position sensor circuit shorted, grounded, or open. If it were mine I would take it to a pro that knows these cars. I have many years experience and have been where you are before. Your choice however, and I wish you well no matter which path you take.
The codes strongly implicate the MAF as the problem (ie; low MAF voltage signal). This means the sensor is not reacting to increases of airflow, which in turn means the sensor is not generating the expected 1-5V signal that the ECU uses to determine injector pulse width. With NDS2, he can run the same diagnostic tests that are described in the FSM, which is the exact same tests (and only tests, even) that the “pros” would conduct - and make the determination of whether or not his MAF is bad with a 100% degree of certainty. There is absolutely zero reason why he should go and spend money for someone else to do the exact same test he can do himself lol. Its a very easy test to run using NDS2 or even a multimeter. He has the tools needed, he has the FSM procedure - wheres the problem? None of this is some sort of arcane esoteric knowledge, there is practically nothing about these cars that has not already been dissected and discussed multiple times over the last twenty years.
I dont mean any offense. I just strongly disagree with the notion that something like this requires a Nissan mechanic to troubleshoot. I wouldnt call myself a pro but this is definitely a topic I know what I am talking about on lol.
MJP- I have followed you over from the Gen8 forum. I think you are on the verge of just throwing money at this problem IF you don't troubleshoot this problem by-the-book, and by this I mean a Maxima tech manual. Based on the codes you recorded, your problem could be the PCM, could be either one of the accelerator pedal position sensors (as I SWAG'ed) when you posted in the Gen8 forum, or could be the MAF (which I am leary of based on the codes you read), or could be as stinky as some circuit wires in that pedal position sensor circuit shorted, grounded, or open. If it were mine I would take it to a pro that knows these cars. I have many years experience and have been where you are before. Your choice however, and I wish you well no matter which path you take.
My son said that he was told about needing a maf sensor when he bought the car (Of course, he didn't tell me this until today). So he said it's been on his list of things to do, but he "forgot about it" since the car wasn't giving him any problems.
My son said that he was told about needing a maf sensor when he bought the car (Of course, he didn't tell me this until today). So he said it's been on his list of things to do, but he "forgot about it" since the car wasn't giving him any problems.
Exactly when did the car loose the ability to accelerate? Was it after the throttle body was cleaned? Or after the MAF code?
Wow I’m about to go clean my MAF right now. Possibly replace it. I have the infamous hesitation around 2-3k rpm. If it don’t work, I have do the ol’ remapping the ECU at Nissan yay! Hope you get that figured out brother. It’s always a pain in the *** when you have sensitive parts 😁
False. I can't believe this myth is still alive. ECU "reflash" or "remap" is slang and isn't even a "thing" outside of a dealership scam. To reset the ECU to factory state (as indicated in the FSM), kill it by DC'ing the battery for 24hrs or long enough to drain the pcb caps and you're done. Plug it back in/reconnect the battery and start the car. Or give your money to Nissan.
Originally Posted by 98 i30t 5spd
Since the throttle body was cleaned, you will have to do a relearn to get the correct idle.
Yet again another myth.
Per the FSM EC71:
"Idle Air Volume Learning
NFEC1188
DESCRIPTION
NFEC1188S01
“Idle Air Volume Learning” is an operation to learn the idle air volume
that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be
performed under any of the following conditions:
I Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced.
I Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.
As for the rest of you knuckleheads, OP has a dead accelerator pedal. I have a good pedal if you want it. Let me know.
My son said that he was told about needing a maf sensor when he bought the car (Of course, he didn't tell me this until today). So he said it's been on his list of things to do, but he "forgot about it" since the car wasn't giving him any problems.
If you're keeping the car for a while, a new, OEM MAF will be one of the best investments you ever made in it. Or if you have access to a yard, go pull a couple for cheap and clean them up. You can swap them out on a whim without having to do anything but plugging it out and plugging it in.
Over 9 years of owning my 04 i35 I cleaned my throttle body twice. Both times I had to do a idle relearn because the idle was either high or too low. That’s what I’m basing my response on, so it’s not really a myth.
Since the throttle body was cleaned, you will have to do a relearn to get the correct idle.
I guarantee that TB was cleaned and they manually forced the butterfly valve open!!! Turn the ignition on pull the air intake and MAF Off and verify the tb butterfly valve worked linear with the throttle pedal!
Over 9 years of owning my 04 i35 I cleaned my throttle body twice. Both times I had to do a idle relearn because the idle was either high or too low. That’s what I’m basing my response on, so it’s not really a myth.
Don't touch the butterfly valve. Don't even breathe on it.
I guarantee that TB was cleaned and they manually forced the butterfly valve open!!! Turn the ignition on pull the air intake and MAF Off and verify the tb butterfly valve worked linear with the throttle pedal!
The codes strongly implicate the MAF as the problem (ie; low MAF voltage signal). This means the sensor is not reacting to increases of airflow, which in turn means the sensor is not generating the expected 1-5V signal that the ECU uses to determine injector pulse width. With NDS2, he can run the same diagnostic tests that are described in the FSM, which is the exact same tests (and only tests, even) that the “pros” would conduct - and make the determination of whether or not his MAF is bad with a 100% degree of certainty. There is absolutely zero reason why he should go and spend money for someone else to do the exact same test he can do himself lol. Its a very easy test to run using NDS2 or even a multimeter. He has the tools needed, he has the FSM procedure - wheres the problem? None of this is some sort of arcane esoteric knowledge, there is practically nothing about these cars that has not already been dissected and discussed multiple times over the last twenty years.
I dont mean any offense. I just strongly disagree with the notion that something like this requires a Nissan mechanic to troubleshoot. I wouldnt call myself a pro but this is definitely a topic I know what I am talking about on lol.
No offense taken. I only mentioned a tech procedure because the inquirer sounded very inexperienced and I just hate to see folks throw good money after bad partly based on internet do-gooders trying to help from afar, if you know what I mean. I'll leave the fixin' to you knowledgeable types familiar with this system. Outa here.
Exactly when did the car loose the ability to accelerate? Was it after the throttle body was cleaned? Or after the MAF code?
I assume it was after both. The car wouldn't start. It just cranked. He sprayed down the maf, and cleaned sprayed the throttle body. He most definitely touched the flap. The engine wasn't on but he sprayed in around the flap. Opened it. Wiped it. Etc.
None of that got the car to start. He then checked a relay by swapping it out with a friend's. Still no change. He swapped relays back and then changed the coil pack. It was number 1. The car finally started. Then there wasn't any accelerator response whatsoever. That's all I know 🤷♀️
All you managed to do was re-title your thread and erase the advise you were already given.
