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the rubber parts or the metal parts. i've seen crappy mis aligned weld on so many things from desks to industrial to car parts in the last several years with everything made as cheaply as possible.
I just went out and looked at my poly mounts and look what I found!
This is a Knight_yyz mount.
It has completely failed. It looks like the polyurethane has totally disintegrated. I wonder how this could happen.
I haven't looked at the driver's side yet, I'm guessing it's the same. I certainly am not trying to disparage Knight_yyz. This obviously wasn't intentional. Maybe it was a bad poly compound. Who knows? I sent him an email. Maybe he has some ideas.
My ES front and rear mounts are OK.
I think the only other options at this point are crap rubber mounts or the DIY poly fill method.
If you ordered some of these mounts you may want to have a look at yours.
Apparently they're for a sentra, but they fit our maximas. There will be a gap between the two, as you'll notice they're thinner. Not sure if the guy who recommended them filled in that gap or just left em. Probably need to save the pin too.
-OR-
You could get Red Lion Racing mounts. Those are nylatron, so a lot harder material, but those won't crumble on you.
I ended up getting both to try out whenever my wrayth ones fail.
I used the stuff from suspension . com. They lasted about a year. Same for the upper right mount how it peeled out of there. It was all sealed together when I made it but you can see the poly has separated away from everything. Trying window weld now. So far so good but more low rpm vibes.
I just took off my intake to look at the trans mount and it appears to be OK. It feels pretty soft, but I don't remember how hard these were when they were new.
I pulled a chunk of polyurethane off the failed passenger side mount and the consistency of the poly is like licorice. I bet it was just a bad batch or bad mix. I'm guessing all of the failed mounts came from the same batch.
Thanks for the Prothane tip. That is a GREAT find! I'm going to order one and see how it works out. I understand there will be a gap between the 2 halves but do you know if the overall width is the same? Also, do you know if these will work for both the passenger side and trans?
FYI, if anyone else is interested, the black and red Prothane mounts are the same durometer.
I wouldn't mind trying a Red Lion mount, but there is no info on their website. Do you know if they make a Maxima mount or I would be looking for a 91-99 Sentra mount, like the Prothane?
my mounts are so bad ! i cant even get on the gas any more w out slamming them. i just am torn at what to do. please help me remember the deal with this, ES mounts (front and rear only) only work for manual transmission mounts which are slightly larger than automatic mounts correct? but you can install manual brackets on an automatics to be able to use the ES bushings correct?. i actually just read on here that the front is really the only manual bracket conversion you need the rear is the same for both.
sorry about your troubles OP, and timbarry thanks for sharing, thats crazy they barely lasted a year, do you remember what strength you got for the suspension dot com kit? I almost pulled the trigger on those last summer but procrastinated.
keep us posted Squid ! sorry about your mounts going too.
sighh.... for super noob amaturer DIY it seems like a pain in the but to lift (jack) your damn engine to do this, let alone actually getting to them. i wish you could just shoot some spray foam in them. sigh... i guess no comfortable WOT for now
my mounts are so bad ! i cant even get on the gas any more w out slamming them. i just am torn at what to do. please help me remember the deal with this, ES mounts (front and rear only) only work for manual transmission mounts which are slightly larger than automatic mounts correct? but you can install manual brackets on an automatics to be able to use the ES bushings correct?. i actually just read on here that the front is really the only manual bracket conversion you need the rear is the same for both.
sorry about your troubles OP, and timbarry thanks for sharing, thats crazy they barely lasted a year, do you remember what strength you got for the suspension dot com kit? I almost pulled the trigger on those last summer but procrastinated.
keep us posted Squid ! sorry about your mounts going too.
sighh.... for super noob amaturer DIY it seems like a pain in the but to lift (jack) your damn engine to do this, let alone actually getting to them. i wish you could just shoot some spray foam in them. sigh... i guess no comfortable WOT for now
60a is what I had. No biggie to get these out. I can do it in literally 2 minutes now. 1 car on jack stands. 2 put a jack under the engine cross member and jack it up enough to keep the member close to the frame when you unscrew (shredded a few threads without the jack part). Same with putting it back on. 3 Unscrew the 17mm cross member bolts. 4 unscrew the 17mm mount bolts for each mount. 5 lower brace with mounts on it out of the way. 6 Replace mounts. Bam. Make sure when you put the cross member bolts back in that you jack up the engine brace with the mounts attached to the engine. Replace any splash guards. Look forward to the next time. Also make sure you look at where the cross member bolts to the frame in the front for rusting that you may need to deal with.
thanks for sharing, not bad, get oem base(rubber) then add the weld to it (poly), that guys car is interesting... looks like a heavily modified dodge stratus...
Originally Posted by timbarry
60a is what I had. No biggie to get these out. I can do it in literally 2 minutes now. 1 car on jack stands. 2 put a jack under the engine cross member and jack it up enough to keep the member close to the frame when you unscrew (shredded a few threads without the jack part). Same with putting it back on. 3 Unscrew the 17mm cross member bolts. 4 unscrew the 17mm mount bolts for each mount. 5 lower brace with mounts on it out of the way. 6 Replace mounts. Bam. Make sure when you put the cross member bolts back in that you jack up the engine brace with the mounts attached to the engine. Replace any splash guards. Look forward to the next time. Also make sure you look at where the cross member bolts to the frame in the front for rusting that you may need to deal with.
thanks for the info, 60A seemed like the best middle of the road choice. and you make it seem not too bad actually, but idk that's still a bit much for me personally. sadly Id prolly make a new set of mounts w brackets and have a shop put them in. i just can't believe your DIY mounts didn't even last too long, these things are supposed to last at least 100k (when compared to OEM) you would think they can last similar or way longer.
DE motor has a lot of torque. I have all the bolt ons and the only time I don't WOT is when there is someone in the way. These mounts are pretty cheap and barring installation they aren't that big of a deal. The hardest part is cutting out all the rubber to make room for the poly. I really like how they hold the engine over the stock ones when they were new and working properly tho. On the side mounts what I did was just fill in all the empty space with the window weld. Same on the front. Actually from my experience the front mount lasts a lot longer its that rear one that gets the most force.
i just re read all my bookmarks on the subject, the manual motor mounts are smaller, but the brackets are compatible in autos, so if auto, you get ES press them in manual brackets, and install to the cross member, unplugging the elect to the mounts will not do any harm and actually save you from a possibility of frying ECU.
i still don't know what I wanna do, i have 275k miles ... i plan on keeping it a while but kinda slowed down on mods.... this is more maintenance and drive ability at this point though.
i think I am gonna get cheap rock auto ish manual brackets, get ES bushings and press them into the new manual brackets, and install them. the thing tho is DIY kits you could do the side ones too (they usually don't need much attention as they don't get a lot of the forces)
I'm sure this will fail as well! There's seems to be something wrong w/ how the poly bonds/adheres to the metallic portion of the mount! I'll be upgrading to Red Lion Racing R/H and Trans mounts asap...my ES motor mount (Front/Rear) lasted for nearly 10 years and the bore was elongated the material never failed, I replaced these almost a year ago! I believe the ES are the best for spirited driving not necessarily all out racing! Aluminum mounts are made for all out racing. My 5.5th gen is a street car not a race car and many of us need to figure out the same...
i just re read all my bookmarks on the subject, the manual motor mounts are smaller, but the brackets are compatible in autos, so if auto, you get ES press them in manual brackets, and install to the cross member, unplugging the elect to the mounts will not do any harm and actually save you from a possibility of frying ECU.
i still don't know what I wanna do, i have 275k miles ... i plan on keeping it a while but kinda slowed down on mods.... this is more maintenance and drive ability at this point though.
i think I am gonna get cheap rock auto ish manual brackets, get ES bushings and press them into the new manual brackets, and install them. the thing tho is DIY kits you could do the side ones too (they usually don't need much attention as they don't get a lot of the forces)
Why not just get some junk yard M/T mount if you're going to do the ES MM Bushing?
I'm sure this will fail as well! There's seems to be something wrong w/ how the poly bonds/adheres to the metallic portion of the mount! I'll be upgrading to Red Lion Racing R/H and Trans mounts asap...my ES motor mount (Front/Rear) lasted for nearly 10 years and the bore was elongated the material never failed, I replaced these almost a year ago! I believe the ES are the best for spirited driving not necessarily all out racing! Aluminum mounts are made for all out racing. My 5.5th gen is a street car not a race car and many of us need to figure out the same...
i picked ES based on your posts about them lasting. apprecaite it
Originally Posted by CMax03
Why not just get some junk yard M/T mount if you're going to do the ES MM Bushing?
and i should call some yards, but I don't have a lot around me. rock auto mounts are only $16 or so a piece
I think I am gonna get cheap rock auto ish manual brackets, get ES bushings and press them into the new manual brackets, and install them. the thing tho is DIY kits you could do the side ones too (they usually don't need much attention as they don't get a lot of the forces)
This is what I did. I bought a Febest front mount for a manual trans. In my experience anything from Febest made of rubber is total garbage, but the mount itself was really nice. Then I drilled/sawed out the rubber/steel bushing and pressed in the ES bushing. For the rear, I used my original mount. They have been working well for about 4 years now.
This is what I did. I bought a Febest front mount for a manual trans. In my experience anything from Febest made of rubber is total garbage, but the mount itself was really nice. Then I drilled/sawed out the rubber/steel bushing and pressed in the ES bushing. For the rear, I used my original mount. They have been working well for about 4 years now.
so you can confirm the rear auto mounts (firewall) fit the ES manual only bushing ? nice! thanks for your info.
Just get a front mount for a manual, gut it and gut your stock rear mount. The ES will fit well. The job was not too bad at all.
IIRC, the black ES bushings have graphite or some lube in the compound and are allegedly less prone to squeeking. However, in an engine mount application where there is no rotational movement, I doubt you would get squeeking anyway. Just throwing that out there.
I removed the Wrayth mount and it was a pretty catastrophic failure...
I also bought a Prothane insert:
The insert fits in the mount perfectly. However, there are a few issues.
1. The overall width is too narrow. It needs to be 86mm and it is currently 66mm. There is a gap of 10mm on each side.
2. The metal sleeve that came with the Prothane is 60mm long.
2. There is a 6-7mm gap between the 2 halves inside the mount. This may not be critical since the polyurethane is really firm.
3. The OD of the metal sleeve that came with the Wrayth mount is too small for the Prothane insert. The OD of the Prothane sleeve is 19mm and the Wrayth is 16mm.
I have a few ideas to get this to work.
1. Find/make a metal sleeve that is 86mm long and 19mm OD
2. Find/make 2 10mm spacers for each side out of either aluminum/polyurethane/delrin
3. Some variation/combination of the above
I believe the trans mount spacing is narrower and this Prothane might fit there perfectly, except for the metal sleeve.
I really don't think so. I think this is entirely a case of a bad polyurethane mix/compound.
The way the material completely disintegrated pretty much proves that it's the material that Knight_yyz used and nothing inherent in the Max. My ES bushings (and I think everyone else's) have held up just fine and for much longer.
As someone mentioned above, heat probably played a major role. I suspect this is why my trans mount is still OK, but that is pure speculation.
As a side note, I have had a lot more NVH and a clunk when starting the engine that I now know was the fault of this mount. It's probably been in pieces for a year or two.
My OEM mounts lasted 180k miles before they needed replacement. I got a series of cheap replacement mounts after that and they broke almost immediately, then I bit the bullet and put ES poly mounts in the OEM housings. So far about 50k miles in, they're still good. Must be something to do with ill fitting aftermarket mounts that tears these up.
My OEM mounts lasted 180k miles before they needed replacement. I got a series of cheap replacement mounts after that and they broke almost immediately, then I bit the bullet and put ES poly mounts in the OEM housings. So far about 50k miles in, they're still good. Must be something to do with ill fitting aftermarket mounts that tears these up.
The cheap aftermarket mounts fail quickly because of the cheap/crap rubber used, not because they don't fit well. I currently have a cheap ebay mount on the passenger's side while I sort out a new poly bushing. It fits great, just like the OEM mount. However, it will likely be dead within a year if I leave it in there.
I've had the Prothane mount in the car for a couple months now and it's working well.
I had to use a bunch of large fender washers to fill in the space on both sides and between the 2 halves of the mount. However, it's very solid. As long as the polyurethane itself holds up under heat, this should be a good long term solution.
I have a feeling Prothane probably makes a wider mount that will fit, but getting actual dimensions from Prothane is virtually impossible.
yikes! , are they cheap or what? are they not considered true poly mounts? and what's really sad is that the side mounts don't take as much force as the front and rear.
i got my ES polys on the front and back now (used manual brackets and manual only ES polys to work with my auto) , love the modification, and it feels like the car is brand new, downshifts don't have thud, and upshifts super clean and tight and crisp. and honestly the vibrations are not that bad to anyone wondering. and I am daily driving.
I think Knight_yyz just got the formula wrong and these just couldn't withstand heat.
I have the ES mounts in the front and rear also and I really like them. I also agree that the vibration is nothing. I actually prefer it over stock.
What do you have for left & right mounts?
gotcha gotcha, so kinda home made polys bascially, nothing against Knight, i know he is a stand up guy. and i dont have anything on the sides hahaha i even installed the NWP Torque Brace too, now that added a lot of vibration, maybe 2x more than the polys did. i have it set as half tight/ closer to the looser side, and it made the vibrations a little more manageable for daily. and that's why it is built that way for easy adjustment. i wonder if I should to the sides, but noticed there are not too many options besides custom home made polys. i think someone found a lesser known brand that fit, but i forget.
i'll take a pic but the knight mounts have totally crumbled.
ES front/rears are totally fine. just wondering is he still selling mounts and has he changed to a different maker?
so i'm not really in the maxima game where can i get side mounts? i read something about red lion?
delrin would be worth a try F it. but god damn the knight mounts are catastrophic. nice try appreciate the try but man..
12-09-2020, 05:35 PM
