I am about to finish my project from hell taking the timing chain cover off to replace tensioners, guide and water pump. There are lots of videos and information on how to take the timing cover off but there is very little advice on putting the timing chain cover back. I know the basics: clean off old RTV, put new RTV and reinstall. I can already see one huge challenge. Given the tight space, it was already a challenge taking the cover off. It will be almost impossible to put the cover back on with new RTV and not let the RTV touch an engine part while I am doing it. Any advice on doling this final part? I hate to do all this work and have an oil leak develop because fresh RTV was rubbed off while putting the timing chain cover back on the engine.

 

This video discusses how to replace the timing cover and avoid leaks Pay particular attention at time stamp 11:40 and on to the end of the video.

 

This video discusses installation. Start watching at 6:30

 

See also How to Replace the Timing Chain on your VQ35DE Engine (my4dsc.com) (page down about 80%)

 

Thanks @DougR for posting the videos and the link. They are quite helpful. Can't wait to start that car again.

 

I didn't watch any of the above videos to see what what covered.
I35Geek - did you remove the upper oil pan before pulling the timing cover? If you didn't youre going to have one heck of a time getting the timing cover/upperoil pan half moon seal seated, as the install procedure is to install the timing cover, then upper oil pan.

Have a look in the FSM if you haven't already. It covers both install and removal.

 

I did not take the upper oil pan off to remove the timing cover. In @DougR 's first video, he referenced 11:40 where the guy did mention about the 1/2 moon plastic gasket could slip off during timing cover reinstall. .

 

when it comes to using silicone on a time-consuming job repair make sure you prep the surface really really good and give it a full 24 hours to dry before putting in oil and starting the engine. I clean the application area with rubbing alcohol until the paper towels or rags stop staining when wiping.

I did my upper pan along with my rear main seal back in January of 2013 and it's held up real good after 110,000 miles.

 

Rubbing alcohol? You might want to use Acetone or MEK next time but these really gets the surface super clean!

 

It's probably easier to just pull the engine cause the silicone sealant is going to be everywhere but where it should be when trying to go back together! You can't beat an engine stand and the ability to assemble the engine flawlessly!

 

Honestly, even with the engine out and the upper pan installed, it's still a huge PITA to get the front cover half moon seated.

 

super late but if anyone else needs a tip, when reinstalling the timing cover yes it is difficult because of the seal at the bottom. If you set the cover in place loosely it will hold up on the engine mount stud leaning against the frame. I took a grinding disk and used it as a big washer basically sandwiched between the crank and the crank bolt. Gradual tightening of the crank bolt and bolts #1, #2, and #3 per the service manual (long bolts along either side of the crank and one above the crank) will slowly bring the bottom of the timing cover in. Alternate between the bolts and at some point I’d recommend installing bolts near your alignment dowels. This will bring the cover in at a reasonably even rate before installing any other cover bolts. Be sure to check the seal at the bottom though and gaps along the cover to make sure everything is ok, especially the seal. This should get you to the point you can install all timing cover bolts and then torque all the bolts in sequence for a good seal.

 

My timing chain cover was successfully replaced and everything put back together. It has been 4 years and 30k miles. Everything runs great. I am
approaching 200,000 miles now.