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crank pulley bolt removal

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Old 12-19-2021, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by uptownsamcv
the E.S. bushings usually last me 3 years. i think the fact that the bushing is so large is its weakness. I think a metal press in sleeve to reduce the amount of urethane needed would be a stronger longer lasting mount. my worn out E.S. mount has a good amount of stretch in the hole where the bolt sleeve goes through.
Only 3 years!? My engine mounts are the only ES bushings that lasted. They rest were not worth the effort.
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Old 12-19-2021, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by uptownsamcv
NWP makes a engine torque link kit, I'm considering it to see if it will help with longevity of the E.S. mounts. they have a before and after video but it's not too convincing to be honest
Saw that thing a while ago. Although it's a nice kit, and people seem to like it, the engine mounting point of the link is (in my opinion) too close to the central axis of torque rotation, resulting in what I agree is too little effect. The ES engine mount bushings would provide more of the anti-torque effect. I dunno though, I might grab it and throw it on anyway. My anti-torque arm idea would use mounting points opposite the NWP kit, with the engine mount point farther out radially from the central axis of engine rotation. I bought this, just have to implement it somewhere (find space somewhere)

Amazon Amazon
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Old 12-19-2021, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
Only 3 years!? My engine mounts are the only ES bushings that lasted. They rest were not worth the effort.
Do you have the lower control arm kit? If so, were they not worth it? I'm putting mine together now. My lower control arms were new OEM when I did the engine swap two years ago, but the idea of the rear bushing binding because I'm so low just bugs me.



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Old 12-19-2021, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by User1
Saw that thing a while ago. Although it's a nice kit, and people seem to like it, the engine mounting point of the link is (in my opinion) too close to the central axis of torque rotation, resulting in what I agree is too little effect. The ES engine mount bushings would provide more of the anti-torque effect. I dunno though, I might grab it and throw it on anyway. My anti-torque arm idea would use mounting points opposite the NWP kit, with the engine mount point farther out radially from the central axis of engine rotation. I bought this, just have to implement it somewhere (find space somewhere)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree, attaching the the torque link to the center of the passenger side mount is a horrible design. attaching it more to the rear the the engine makes more sense.
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Old 12-19-2021, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by User1
Do you have the lower control arm kit? If so, were they not worth it? I'm putting mine together now. My lower control arms were new OEM when I did the engine swap two years ago, but the idea of the rear bushing binding because I'm so low just bugs me.
I have all the E.S. products and they are worth it. the kit for the front as well as the rear trailing arms remove a lot of slop out of the suspension.
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Old 12-19-2021, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by uptownsamcv
I have all the E.S. products and they are worth it. the kit for the front as well as the rear trailing arms remove a lot of slop out of the suspension.
Cool, thanks. Cuz my car will be 100% ES next week. With QT link and new OEM Lateral link for the rear.
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Old 12-19-2021, 04:26 PM
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My "to do" list next week Lol

Maxima To Do:

New front rotors and pads. Service/clean calipers. Grind calipers for Brembo rotors
Pad slap rear
Lower control arm rebuilds ES bushings, MOOG ball joints
Adjustable sway bar links
Sway bar mount bushings ES
Engine cross member bushings ES
Subframe collars
Mount and balance new tires
Ceramic coat wheels
Install Megan strut Brace (design torque-member? Not needed if ES engine mounts?)
Moog tie rod ends
New axles
New transmission fluid
Engine air filter
Cabin air filters
ES trailing arm bushings
Lateral link
QT adjustable link
Inspect undercarriage/exhaust shielding
ES engine mount bushings
Wash/detail


Fastenal washers: 33098
1.25" ID, 2.25" OD
In case eBay washers don't work

Last edited by User1; 12-19-2021 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 12-19-2021, 05:49 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by User1
Do you have the lower control arm kit? If so, were they not worth it? I'm putting mine together now. My lower control arms were new OEM when I did the engine swap two years ago, but the idea of the rear bushing binding because I'm so low just bugs me.
I had everything they offered for the front on my 98. I had to replace a few after maybe 5 years. The sub frame/cross member bushings pretty much fail on install.

The only bushings that I could reuse on my 99 are the Superpro trailing arm bushings and ES motor mounts.
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Old 12-19-2021, 05:53 PM
  #49  
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I'm excited to see how the front end feels with the new lower control arms. I ordered the Anchor engine mounts and will put those together with the ES bushings and install them later on, but everything else will be done next week. I won't really know what contributed to any specific change as I will be doing everything at the same time, but I'm also excited to install the subframe collar kit and see how that does. Doing everything simultaneously my front end will probably be crazy firm even though everything on it now is only two years old and 30k Florida miles.
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Old 12-20-2021, 09:42 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by User1
My "to do" list next week Lol

Maxima To Do:

New front rotors and pads. Service/clean calipers. Grind calipers for Brembo rotors
Pad slap rear
Lower control arm rebuilds ES bushings, MOOG ball joints
Adjustable sway bar links
Sway bar mount bushings ES
Engine cross member bushings ES
Subframe collars
Mount and balance new tires
Ceramic coat wheels
Install Megan strut Brace (design torque-member? Not needed if ES engine mounts?)
Moog tie rod ends
New axles
New transmission fluid
Engine air filter
Cabin air filters
ES trailing arm bushings
Lateral link
QT adjustable link
Inspect undercarriage/exhaust shielding
ES engine mount bushings
Wash/detail


Fastenal washers: 33098
1.25" ID, 2.25" OD
In case eBay washers don't work
stay away from that E.S. engine cross member bushing, when I installed it it caused the threads in the hole to get messed up somehow, haven't been the same even after I tapped the hole. every time I remove the subframe I have to order new bolts for the rear portion.
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Old 12-20-2021, 12:56 PM
  #51  
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Doesn't sound right. Thanks for the heads up though. I'm going to install them. I'll let you know if I run into the same issue.
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Old 12-20-2021, 01:04 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by User1
Doesn't sound right. Thanks for the heads up though. I'm going to install them. I'll let you know if I run into the same issue.
I highly advise against it, stock bushing is good enough.
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Old 12-20-2021, 01:11 PM
  #53  
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Gotcha! I'll pay attention to it and report back. They're not hard to replace. I'll throw them in, if everything goes fine, I'll order OEM and replace them later, but the ones that are in there are shot, so they gotta go either way and ES is what I have right now.
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Old 12-20-2021, 07:33 PM
  #54  
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use a 3/8 ratchet to seat the bolts first before fully tightening them. as simple as the kit is, there is some kind of flaw. it's been years so i cant remember the specifics.
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