So hopped in the car on a cool morning, and no blower motor for defrost today. Looking at a couple of YouTube videos, the replacement of the motor doesn't look like too cr*ppy of a job. However, before I do that, what can I check?

1. Is there a fuse to check? Note: All of the lights on the cabin control head unit work. The rear defrost works. Basically, everything appears to be working on the head unit, just no blower.
2. Is there a resistor to replace instead of blower motor? This was mentioned in one of the YouTube videos, but I'm not clear on it.
3. Any tips for this job?

Just changed the oil yesterday, so of course, that's when the next item breaks. :-)

 

First thing you should be checking if there's power to the blower motor connector with a test light or DVOM, if you have power to the connector at that point the blower motor itself is likely bad. If you have no power, start checking fuses. Resistor is a possibility but usually when the resistor takes a dump, the blower motor will only work on high speed but won't on low speed

 

@chrome91 - Thanks for the quick reply. I will test for power with my voltmeter. My car is getting no action from the blower at all. I'll try tapping on it as well to see if that gets it moving....which I would then guess means the blower motor itself is cr*pping out.

I found a decent video on YouTube here that is only a couple minutes long.
1. I see where the two (2) 15A fuses are in the engine bay in the fuse box by the battery. Will check those.

2. For the relay, is there another one I can borrow from elsewhere in the car to test with if I need to?

3. For the resistor, given that I have zero blower fan operation, I am hopeful that this part is not the culprit.

Note: Prior to this morning, I did not have any strange noises or issues with the blower motor.

 

I haven't seen relays crap out before, 99% of the time it's the blower motor or resistor. Resistor are usually an easy swap and 2-3 bolts and the connector, if anything that's what I would be grabbing for $2 at a junkyard to swap out.

 

@chrome91 - Thanks. Tonight I checked:

1. Two 15A fuses: All good.
2. Voltage at the power connector to the blower: All good.

So I'm guessing the blower is kaput.

 

I swapped out my motor on my 2k2 in August when it was chirping like a bird and getting louder as the summer went on. It took about 20 minutes and I did it while parked on the street.

Hardest part is removing the glove box. Oh, and the motor connector can be difficult to release. Other than that, its really straight forward process.

 

@TallTom - Thanks. Yeah, getting the glove box off was not too bad. And yeah, that power connector to the motor was a little sticky to get off, but enough wiggling back and forth did the trick. I've got the blower motor on order from RockAuto.

 

I ordered mine from Amazon and the 1st one that came was making a sound like a card in a wheel spoke so I had to order another. I became pretty good at the swap by the time the second one arrived.


I ordered a TYC.

 

i got an amazon one last year pretty cheap, and its making a slight noise now 11 months later, not loud enough to be annoying honestly, but not quiet as before. I also run econ air 247 driving the car hot or cold.

 

I ordered the UAC one from RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6916&jsn=875

 

So tried the install of parts today. First, the UAC blower is trash that I received from RockAuto. The part was obviously used (perhaps refurbed). Highly do NOT recommend.

I had also ordered the resistor just in case. I installed that and voila!! The old blower works.

Couple of notes:
1. Be sure to change or clean out your cabin air filters while you are there.
2. If you have the blower motor out, clean it as well (I did some compressed air on it).