All,
Sitting there with the car idle at a light and the car cuts out. Starts up and its okay. Goto work, pull into a spot and put it in Park, it dies. Doesn't do it all the time but need to get this fixed.

What could this be? IAC valve? This thing is expensive! If I replace this, do I need to perform the idle re-learn process?

thank you

 

engine light on?

does it restart easy?

 

No engine light but it does start right back up.

 

CPS sensors, i would bet $5

i got these issues with no codes, change all 3 with OEM or hitachi.

the cut offs will start to occur more and more untill the car will not start at all.

 

Thank you
For the crankshaft are there three? Front rear and side???

At rockauto I see NTK. Would that be okay along w Hitachi?

 

crank shaft and cam position, look around here for more info, very common problem, there was TSB in 2003 for them as well.

3 total.

do not touch any other brand that OEM or HITACHI, or you will be doing again all over. ask me how I know. you will get same issues less than 12 months.

and just to be clear this is for 5.5 Gens with VQ35DE 2002-2003, i cant remember about the 5th gen VQ30

 

3.0 isn't as picky I don't think

 

Sorry My apologies, I should have told you that the car is a 2001.

 

get the sensors from rockauto.com and look up the 5% off code

 

I may be the minority here but I just buy cheap sensors from Amazon. True, quality is inconsistent. They are so easy to swap out that it is worth the risk IMO. I always have an extra pair on hand in case anything happens. Mine is a 2003 with 190,000 miles. I had it since 2006 and I changed those sensors 3-4 times in the last 17 years. That is not bad for cheap sensors from Amazon.

 

I've used Duralast cam position sensors with great results but so far I haven't had to change my crank position sensor yet and I've owned my car since December of 2012.

from my experience the only sensor I recommend getting OEM is the MAF, even if you can find a good used one. I ran a Duralast senor for a few years and when I switched to a used OEM MAF it made a huge difference, more stable idle and the engine felt like it was putting down more power just from changing out the MAF. luckily I have an Autozone hook up that is a manager and I was able to get my money back on their MAF sensor even though a few years had passed since I got it.

 

Yes - we all learn when it is worth it to use OEM and when it is OK not to use OEM. My rule of thumb is answering these 2 questions:

1. How hard is it labor wise to replace the part? If it is PITA, then use OEM.
2. What is the cost difference between OEM & non-OEM? If it is not PITA to replace, and there is a big difference cost wise between OEM and non-OEM, then by all means go for the cheaper route, and try the non-OEM.

A perfect example of a PITA is water pump. I would only use OEM in this case. I have used non-OEM CAM & Crankshaft sensors from Amazon. It has been 2 years and 12,000 miles still going strong.

 

definitely don't want to skimp on the water pump, I went with Aisin water pump and OEM Nissan seals when I did my swap. I also drain and refill my radiator yearly to keep my water pump from failing.

I've cheaped out out valve covers and learned not to use the gaskets they come with and to use Fel Pro. the first time I did a valve cover job on my DE engine the cheap gaskets that were included failed in a week. the gasket got hard and started to leak. I did the valve covers on a friends I35 and the kit he got came with new bolts and blue gaskets. it's been over a year and his car has been ok.

 

3-4 changes... thats a lot of annoying re-dos when oem or hitatchi are good for 12 years each. i hear ya and if you don't mind doing it yourself I get your point. we are also talking about the car shutting off suddenly while driving with no prior warning or indications.. so id rather not deal with such an issue more than you have to.
i have had issues with napa cps sensors (they may have been the duralast), i have had issues with dorman evap sesnors, and each and everytime i swapped them with OEM the problems went away for good.
i get easy parts are easy, but again sudden shut offs, they rarely will be convenient. either in traffic or at a place you can't just climb under the car or hood, to each thier own!

 

Having used non-OEM sensors in my car for 17 years, I never once had my car stalling for no reason while the car is running. Typical signs of it failing is hard to start. That is when I pull out my spare, reach inside the engine compartment and put in the new one. I have done all repairs to my car by myself.

 

when the cam position sensor o-rings got hard and brittle the leak caused oil to get to the connectors. I would have brief engine shut offs like 1 or 2 seconds.

 

Go OEM or Rock Auto Hitachi and the problem is gone...Duralast and O'Reilly's brand aren't reliable and the Duralast might actually cause problems which was something majority of the AZ nut baggers experienced. This is an Issue that's been covered as much as the proper Coilpacks to use...Why ask how hard it is? How many there are? Do yourself a favor and buy a book or download the Maintenance manuals! At least look get under the hood and engine and get familiar with your engine and vehicle. I wouldn't recommend working on anything without a reference to what you're really looking at. There's 1 CPS and 2 Cam sensors...I swapped those stubborn green lock style cam connectors with the gray G35 easier to release and installed connector body. Disassembly of the connectors are easy due to their modular design! GL I35GEEK.

 

Thanks for your reply. I know you're a veteran on here and so am I but I rarely drive the car. Its easier for me to ask to see what others has done. I do thank you for your reply though and will replace the sensors.