When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not sure what to make of this but here's whats happening:
I've replaced the rear calipers and put in speedbleeders to bleed the system. I was able to bleed the system by myself and everything is okay. But I've noticed that when driving slow, mashing the brakes hard, the car would slow down but not abruptly stop. I tried it again going to a stop sign but this time it stopped. So I tried this again and the car slowed down but didn't stop. It does eventually stop though. I didn't hear my ABS activating though.
I've checked the fluid. All is well there. Any suggestions? Perhaps re-bleed the system?
Thanks
I had an issue with poor braking and did a ghetto BBK (front end), took calipers, rotors, pads caliper bracket off a 6th gen in a junk yard and bolted on my 2001, bled brakes myself with the bottle method, stops were amazing after that,
fwiw I got ABS disabled (and took the light bulbs for that stuff out of the dash) rear was just "new" rotors and pads, also junk yard.
Check for leaks, and brake fluid level. Then re-bleed until you get consistent brake pedal feel when braking.
Thanks!
I'll try that again but it's cold here. I drive slow and don't take any chances right now.
The question is that the ABS doesn't kick in. Have No ABS light though. Very strange
Make sure there is no binding as these are floating calipers so lubricate the pins. You can also just confirm that the brake assist is working by having the engine running, open the brake bleeder with a hose into a bottle, and mash the pedal (but only briefly). If the bottle doesn't have a lot of fluid I would suggest purging the system. Hope this helps.
Make sure there is no binding as these are floating calipers so lubricate the pins. You can also just confirm that the brake assist is working by having the engine running, open the brake bleeder with a hose into a bottle, and mash the pedal (but only briefly). If the bottle doesn't have a lot of fluid I would suggest purging the system. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I'll have to look at that when the weather gets a tad warmer.
I did notice that this happens when going uphill or downhill. I was exiting off a ramp and looked front and back to make sure it was clear. I mashed the pedal but it didn't abruptly stop. It slowed down but not where you need it to 'stop on a dime' sort of a deal
the ABS light supposed to come on than go out so you know the ABS light works. if t stays on after the engine starts up than you have an ABS issue...
Thanks. Yeah, When I start the car, it comes up and then goes away.
I did turn on the ignition prior to cranking the car but the light didn't come on.
The car doesn't activate the ABS that I've noticed today. I did a brake test when it was wet and nobody around and its not braking the way its supposed to.
yeah, I found out that the bleeding order is different plus the disconnect of the battery or pulling the abs fuses. Let me try that and I'll report back
I see up top that you mentioned using a speed bleeder. I've always had better luck bleeding it old school with someone pumping and holding the brake pedal down while I crack the bleeder. same with the clutch.
I see up top that you mentioned using a speed bleeder. I've always had better luck bleeding it old school with someone pumping and holding the brake pedal down while I crack the bleeder. same with the clutch.
Yeah I have no choice when doing it at the time. My kids need special attention and my wife couldn't help at the time.
I'll need to take a day off to do this when the kids are in school. I was thinking the same thing. Change back to regular bleeders.
ive never had a problem with gravity bleeding. just takes longer.
crack bleeder, let drip for a bit, close bleeder, step on pedal a few times, crack bleeder (youll likely see a few more bubbles), repeat first 5 steps until no bubbles (usually only takes 2x). move to next wheel.
not ONCE have i had a problem with not following the "recommended" sequence. the only time ive seen an issue with any kind of bleeding has been on the GMT900 platform and that was co-workers doing the foot bleed method. ended up having to do an ABS bleed to fix it.
the problem here is where is the air in your system and did any make it into the HCU? if it did you will need to do an ABS bleed.
I had an issue with poor braking and did a ghetto BBK (front end), took calipers, rotors, pads caliper bracket off a 6th gen in a junk yard and bolted on my 2001, bled brakes myself with the bottle method, stops were amazing after that,
fwiw I got ABS disabled (and took the light bulbs for that stuff out of the dash) rear was just "new" rotors and pads, also junk yard.
I’m not sure why your ASB had to be disabled…? But I did this same modification to my 2003 SE Maxima after warpage issues with front 11.75” brakes. So me guess would be your Ghetto Methods or lack of knowledge when working on ABS Braking systems?