So I have this 2000 SE with a fair amount of rust on the rear rocker panels that has been repaired quick-and-dirty style. She has 190k miles. But that's not really the main issue the car has: it stalls when cold and runs rough when warmed up. It seems loud and under-powered, jerky. Short-term fuel trim was -25% when warming up.

My conversation with Chat GPT went as follows (long read warning). It's a pretty impressive gadget huh? I guess it gets a lot of its knowledge from right here.

(Edit: I deleted this part because I accidentally fed the AI wrong info. It was +25% STFT, not -25%).


I haven't had a chance to do much yet, and my parents are pushing me to just take it to a shop and have them diagnose it (even though I have spare time). They function as my collision insurance so I try not to argue too much.

My Pearl White '97 met an untimely demise a few weeks ago while trying to get groceries. An old guy in an '05 Sentra made a left turn into my lane as I sped up to make a yellow light. He had no dedicated turning signal, but ICBC still says I was "100% at fault" because there is some stupid witness saying I "ran a red light". I hit the brakes so that maybe delayed my arrival at the intersection. I wasn't driving that fast, there's just a lot of bad drivers around here.

So I had a friend pick up this Maxima for me recently, and as I alluded to in a previous post things didn't quite go as planned. I had hoped to pick up a nice 2000 or 2001. The only problem is that most of them were popping up in places like Surrey (the Lower Mainland, Vancouver). Further, I got optimistic that for some reason these cars were unappreciated and that low price tags didn't mean that they were in rough shape. The problem was that I was unable to get myself out there in-person and had to rely on an old friend that I hadn't spoken to in years. Well, communication didn't go so well because I ended up with a rust bucket that barely runs for 1600 Maple Syrup Tokens. Next time I'll make sure to show up in-person! I discovered the reason we have the saying "kick tires"

I'm just trying to make the best of it. On the plus side (maybe) my friend felt bad when he discovered it stalled cold and took it to Mr. Lube, on his dime, and had ALL the fluids done as well as RID (injector cleaning) and a spark plug change (iridiums, yo!). My scan tool says there is a code to be read but then it won't show it. It's a cheapie, CReader.

Here are some pictures because this did really happen, unfortunately:

Is there a reason for that fuse? This is the + terminal. It was bone dry until I put Fluid Film on a few hours ago. Ahhh... much better


I heard that the radiator on the 5th Gen was fatter... but this looks just as thin as my 4th Gen one. And it wiggles around at the top


Rust City (The lower rad mount had holes near the crossmember )




The muffler is some kind of aftermarket deal.



Those gleaming bolt heads on the front valve cover (but still dirty valve cover!~) tell me that some amateur has been monkeying around recently. Is it normal for those two bolt mounts to the right of the oil cap to be empty?


What do you guys think?

 

fuse is normal.
radiator is normal.
upper radiator bushings are worn out. easily replaced for a few bucks.
muffler looks original.
yes those holes are empty when not equipped with the engine cover.


fuel trims most likely a bad MAF but could also be a vacuum leak. would have to properly diagnose.

 

Thanks for your input, @slvr2KSE5

 

Okay, I got a compression test done on the front bank. He says it was: 2x 160 and 1x 170 (come to think of it I don't know the orientation), at 190k miles. Codes were knock sensor and MAF.

Next week my mechanic will fix the exhaust leak and tie-rod end. This will yield a somewhat usable vehicle, finally.

Now I need to find a scan tool that will actually read the codes. Any suggestions?

I did a knock sensor on my '97 a few years back without taking off the plenum. My left hand still holds the trauma of that endeavor - but I read on here that you can preemptively ice your hand for good results I wonder if it's the same difficulty with the 2000. I might just mount it somewhere else for now.


Things I don't like about the 2000 vs the 4th Gen:

1) The overdrive off button needs to be pressed every time (along with the traction control off button).
2) The engine bay looks cramped compared to 4th Gen.
3) The HVAC controls are really ugly and limiting. The LED display is too bright at night. Give me back my dedicated push button controls for vent selection and function!... 4th Gen GXE is King! (Although I do like the option of knowing what ambient temperature is).
4) The trunk lid is too small. I miss the large, potential-filled swing of the 4th Gen one.
5) The styling is obviously inferior (ugly).
6) The horn beeps every time I lock the doors with the fob. I have to look up disabling the horn or the security.
7) Drive by Wire is a bit yucky.

Positive Notes:
1) More power (eventually).
2) Rear seats fold down to give better trunk functionality.
3) It will get me from A to B (eventually).

 

Knock sensor on the '00? Accept your fate and take off the plenum.

For a scan tool I got the Topscan OBD2 scanner which has a lot of functions and i can see airbag and abs light details, as well as do throttle relearns. Problem is is that they want you to pay them every year for the app. I haven't paid this year. Otherwise I hear Blue Driver is a good one.


I prefer the 00 and 01 to the 4th gen, but I prefer the 4th gen to the 02 and 03.

1. No problem with manual
2. Slightly more cramped, not a big difference
3. The controls are very similar to the 4th gen, at least the digital automatic ones were.
4. Going to need a measuring tape
5. Heresy
6. Just a friendly way to let you know you're safe
7. Unless you have a 2002 and newer, the throttle is the same as the 4th gen. Drive by wire only came into the maxima in 2002 (and yes, it is yucky)

 

personally i prefer the DBW of my 02 vs the cable and fuel cut issues of my 00. (yes i had the fuel cut reflash tsb done while the car was still in warranty. confirmed they did it in the few months i was a tech at nissan a few years later)

the shifter in the 00 is lightyears better. suspension also seems to be a bit more firm stock vs stock.

 

That's funny, I could have sworn Brave AI said it was DbW yesterday! I noticed the mechanical cable attached to the throttle, but for some reason I was convinced that it was still needed even with DbW. As I say, the car has drive-ability issues right now so I haven't actually done much driving. My experience with DbW is driving my parents' 2007 Hyundai Azera. While I've come to like that car a lot more than I did at the beginning I did notice some lag associated with the electronic throttle.

ChatGPT thinks it was 2004 when Maxima became DbW, but Brave AI agrees that it was 2002.



I'm sure I'll warm up to her as we spend time together

​​​​​​​Very interesting!

It's actually intriguing to see the evolution --kaizen-- of the VQ. I'm looking forward to getting to know it better.

I miss this:

The more low-key clock is also better in my opinion. But I get it, experimentation and freshness are needed.

Thanks for the scan tool rec

I'm not familiar with the fuel cut issue - related to traction control? Got to read up.
I know about the issues with the motor mounts and IACV killing the ECU.

 

Finally another person who prefers the rod shifter v.s the cable linkage. I miss the cars with it.

I see, you had the manual climate control, you'll get used to the new one.

I'm sure you'll enjoy this one once you get her up.

The fuel cut issue i doubt will be an issue for you.

 

So my mechanic fixed the exhaust leak in the flex pipe, but he misdiagnosed it as being the only leak. It looks like I have some kind of exhaust manifold leaks. The car is a fair bit quieter now and better to drive. The fuel trims that were positive before are now negative (maybe -10, haven't done a ton of driving). My mechanic says that the part to fix the exhaust manifold leak will probably be $1000 by itself. So again I am weighing the possibility of setting this car aside. I want to get a 2nd opinion from another mechanic I know.

I'm reading just now that manifold leaks can be dangerous because you get hot gasses escaping into the engine compartment. Plastic components can melt, and there is also the risk of fire. There is a significant leak in the rear main or half-moon gaskets, so ... Even if the car seems "more drivable" right now I probably shouldn't do much driving.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimat...ld-replacement

This hillbilly fix for manifold leaks using furnace cement looks interesting. How doable is it in the cramped space of the Max, I wonder (and would I actually be capable of doing it? ).

 

post pics of the leaking area if you can. find a new mechanic.

cement, tape, sealer, etc does NOT work. it might for a day or 2 but a couple heat cycles and its done. source: i work in an exhaust shop going on 15 years now. 26 years as a tech.

 

Thanks for saving me from going all arts-and-crafts on the manifold.
I guess fixes like this are something to watch out for when shopping for used cars.

I'll try to get some eyes on the manifold soon and report back.

 

See if you can also to find a dedicated exhaust garage. In Montreal I always take it to a place that only does exhaust all day everyday and their quality of work and prices are better than garages who do it all. The difference is huge

 

I'm still struggling to get a good diagnosis of the exhaust problem. I did go to an exhaust shop, but I have to go back again. It's a long story.

What do you guys think about these different parts? I only drive about 2000km/year these past 5 years, and this thing in it's current state is a Sh*tbox Edition.

Amazon
Cheapie - $500

Walker - $1000



Rock Auto
There were these parts but I get the message saying "these parts are too large for your shipping address".


Still cheaper than the cheaper Amazon part:



I discovered a clattering noise when accelerating in a sharp turn, so the CV joint(s) must need attention. No vibrations at high speed or anything though. My uncle heard the steering pump complaining when maneuvering. Welcome to SE Trim!