I guess we kinda went OT here.

Looks like if you go Nitrous, the 1542 NOS (dry) is the way to go - safe and little modification needed. T'wouldn't it be cool to rewire the Cruise "CANCEL" button on the steering wheel to a Nitro button. I mean you can turn off cruise if you don't want to hit your brake (although you lose your current resume setting). Good positioning so you can focus on the RPM's and not where the button is.

Don't you have to make timing modifications (reprogram) for efficient Nitro HP? Perhaps that's why SR2ODEN is not seeing the gains he expects.

Shaydz

 

Nope, exactly like I told you all I expected the filter to be clogged and it was. In a few weeks I will head back to the dyno and will easily eclipse that measly 300hp mark. As for a kit number you're better off using 5115 which is the Mustang kit. The only difference between most of these kits is the jet sizes. Most speed shops stock 5115 and it's price is generaly a bit cheaper because it's a popular item.

There is little or no need to make timing mods on these cars for Nitrous. The dang things are already retarded 5 degress from the factory, only running 15 instead of 19 or 20 like they should be.


I had promised a writup on how to setup the fuel system to use Nitrous and i am still trying to find the best way to do that. I used a visio like demo program to draw this diagram. Please give me feedback on it so I can tailor it so that it's easy to read and understand.

 

I see a lot of things here that bother me ... first would be using a dry kit to get over 100 shot ... NOT a good idea. Anything over a 100 shot should be a wet kit for the simple reason that it takes more possibilities of failure out of the loop. Get a supplimental inline fuel pump, run some dedicated fuel lines and tap into a stand alone tank in the trunk that is used for the nitrous kit only. This way, you can fill up the 5 gallon fuel cell with 100+ octane and up the nitrous jet a bit. Again, I wouldn't do this without first wiring in some fail safe options, like a pressure switch that would kill the nitrous solenoid if the fuel pressure drops below xx psi. This would require a lot of custom fabrication, but it's only a fuel line bending tool and a lot of tubing, which are both rather inexpesive. My theory, do it right or don't ***** when the engine blows because a single injector (or multiple for that matter) goes static!!!

 

I fail to see a problem with using so much in dry setup. Some people with Mustangs and Z28s are running upto the maximum flow of the powershot solenoids. The kit was designed to have a limit and a 100 shot is barely half way. If you properly read the diagram and my post you would see I HAVE a supplemental inline fuel pump. Who want's to use a standalone fuel tank in their trunk? One of my goals in this project was to show everyone just how easy you could setup EFI dry nitrous on a returnless fuel system. It doesn't just apply to the Maxima but a large number of vehicles made today. The fuel presure safety switch is part of thr nitrous kit anyways. The fuel regulator I used has extra ports for such things to be used. Untill now I never said that I wasn't even using that thing but I still havent made a wiring diagram. And if/ when I do the diagram I would include that device anyways. I have the exact same theroy about doing the job right. Many people have actually seen this install and ALL have commented on how nice it all wnet together. I DID this job right and I don't forsee any major problems with it for that very reason. My injectors can't go static anyways. If you knew anything about the Nissan ECU you would know it won't cycle the injectors past 80% duty cycle. And besides, all of my extra fuel comes from the boosted fuel pressure. The ECU only cycles the injectors based on sensor readings and most of that coems from the MAF. Therfore my ECU isn't throttling the injectors past what it thinks to be 210hp at the wheels.
In many other posts I have mentioned that I will be going to a fogger in the future. Once again I did the EFI because it was simple and I wanted to show everyone it could be done. Thats your right now to agree with what I did but It works fine, I have proven it and I will prove it for a few more months.

 

Looks good, but a few actual pictures would help me.

I'm still learning here, so take it easy:
1)Is the 52psi feed coming from the stock intank fuel pump?
2)Where did you install the inline booster fuel pump?
3)How does the inline pump boost pressure and sustain the high pressure under HIGH load, if it is being supplied by the stock pump?
4)Where did you "Tee" the 52psi line? Any pics?
5)Where did you "Tee" the "high pressure feed" line? Any pics?
6)Did you simply replace the stock regulator with the adjustable regulator using the same connections or is there more to it than that?
7)Do you have any EGT readings while spraying?
8)Can you list all parts and NON-common tools someone needs to accomplish this install?
9)How long did it take you to complete the install?


Thanks for the diagram and PLEASE put together a step-by-step "How To" in the sticky section once your done. I know a lot of us would be very interested.

Alex

 

If you have a 2001 like your username suggests then his setup is totally different from what you will use. 2002's don't have a return fuel line. 2001's do. As a result the setup is/can be very different.

Stereodude

 

Here is the link to the thread where I listed parts and some discriptions.
1) Yes the 52 PSI comes form the stock regulator in the fuel tank.
2) It's located under the hood, right behind the battery.
3) The pump I used is good for 1000hp so flow isn't a problem. Keep in mind that the stock fuel pump can flow several times it's rated capacity when the pressure drops low enough. Pressure and flow are inversely proportional.
4) I put the 'Tee' in the factory fuel line under the hood. Pics; Large, Small
5)See pictures above.
6)The stock regulator is in place. It is located in the fuel tank on a returnless fuel system. The regualtor I instaleld was an addon and can only work with the booster pump.
7)I haven't bothered with EGT. I use a Stochiometric gauge which is much more responsive and easier to read. It's wired to a stock O2 before the precat.
8)See above
9)I assume you mean install only and not all the time I spent trying to figure out what parts to use. I have no real idea, maybe 6 to 8 hours total in the fuel system. The whole thing could be done in less than 2 hours now that I have the right parts.

 

hey SR20 DEN aka matt please check you pm box

 

I did a little bit better today. Hit 313.0 hp and 337.6 torque.

Still dissapointed but i suppose this is all the dry kit is going to do. Time to move on to the fogger.

 

Great results for a start SR20DEN.

Anybody have any solid data on what mods are required for incremental HP increases? e.g., If you exceed 275fwhp, you should upgrade your clutch, etc. If you exceed 300fwhp, you should upgrade your transmition, etc.

A concern I think you should have SR20DEN is jumping to slicks with your current drivetrain. I don't know how to quantify the risk to your hardware, but I'm sure you're thinking about it.

Best of luck finding the fix.

 

The only hardware fix on my mind is getting a fogger and a set of slicks. The clutch on the VQ35 is nothing like the wussy clutches Nissan has used in the past. This thing has great grip and doesn't even hesitate to grip even when I speed shift with the Nitrous on. Never thought I would get to say this about a Nissan but this car does NOT need an aftermarket clutch, even with the power and torque I am putting down.

 

Nice! How's the a/f ratio?

 

No, there's Don with his 95 4th gen auto that runs a 12.2 in the 1/4 mile! It's also FS!

 

That is a very nice improvement over your first dyno on power through out the powerband.

1)Was all you did was clean/replace the filter between the two runs or did you adjust the jets/tune the fuel curve?

2)Any A/F ratio graphs when you ran on the dyno?

3)Why do you think there is a dip from ~4000-4300 rpms? Intake switch over? ECU pulling timing because of slight detonation? Fuel pressure drop? Any ideas or solutions?

Keep up the AWESOME pioneering effort!

 

Thanks,

Yes all I did was clean outt he clogged Nitrous filter. I didn't get the gains I had expected but at least the graph doesn't drop off as much.

No A/F because I don't pay for use of the wideband O2. The price they charge to use that thing is a ripoff to those of us that don't use leaded gas.

There is always a dip when you first activate the Nitrous becasue it is purging the line. It very well could be from ECU retuning but I kinda doubt it. And there isn't a fuel problem. I always have someone else watching gauges for me when I run.

 

No purge kit SR20? Seems like a nominal fee to pay in addition to what you have invested already. Would make the laughing gas hit harder too. Wonder if there are any Dyno's to show purge vs. non purge of gas.

This is a mod I am considering for my 2k Auto, understanding that the fuel system is different.

 

Well the last thing I want with 313 fwhp is for it to hit any harder than it does. Anything I can do to soften the launch is welcome. Thats the main reason I haven't bothered gettign a purge kit.

The standard fuel system on your 2K makes installation a piece of cake. NOS part numbers 5115, 5124, 5123

 

Ok, let me get this straight, you are running at least a 125 shot and not even pushing closer then 300whp? Is this a wet or dry kit? Have you try to tune your Nitrous kit with the fuel jets? Stop messing with the nitrous jets and keep it on 125 or 150 shot, Im sure the 2k2 engine will hold it. When i ran my 99 Auto 50 shot w/ CAI, & Y-Pipe, I was pushing 210whp down. With my 100 shot, I was pushing 235whp (untuned - pushing about 83psi). During your dyno, did you have them check your a/f ratio? You should be dynoing bigger HP numbers then that, esp if you are running at least a 125 shot. sx7r was runnign a dry 100 shot and dynoed almost 300whp and 398lbs not fully tuned (4th gen 5spd basic bolt-ons). Doesn't sound like its well tuned at all to me and your fuel pressure is ridiculously high. Either way, they are respectable dyno numbers. Best of luck!

 

I only call it a 125 shot but I really have the kit maxed out which is aupposed to be a 175 shot at the crank. The fuel jets you speak of don't make a flip on the setup I have since I have an adjustable regualtor that is only functional when the system is on. The rediculously high fuel pressures are needed to run the high amounts of nitrous on the EFU dry kit. The stock fuel pressure on a VQ35 is 3.5 bar (50.7 psi) instead of the usual 3.0 bar (43.4psi) which leaves less room to play with for fuel delivery. There is a good chance that one or both systems aren't delivering to expectations. The nitrous kit may not be flowing as it should or the fuel system may not be delivering as much as it should. But all looks well on the stoich guage from what I have tuned thus far. All of the info I have stated here has been mentioned a few times before. As well as the fact that I will be converting to a direct port fogger plate in the near future. That should allow for better figures and better tuning. Also I would be able to stay with the factory 3.5 bar fuel pressure so the injectrs are functioning within normal parameters. The plate should help me achieve my goal of 400fwp.

 

Have you thought about how much you might gain if you upgraded to a 3" exhaust? You probably already know, but NOS/SC/Turbo's respond VERY well to a larger exhaust. Since the Y-pipe is still unavailable, I'm wondering how much you would benefit just by unconnecting the exhaust before or after the catalytic convertor for a dyno run or two.

It might show how much restriction your OEM exhaust is causing for the price of a dyno and some EAR PLUGS. Worth a shot?

 

Any comment?

 

Yeah I would expect a freer flowing exhaust to show up nicely on the dyno and on the track. Exhaust is in the plans but I just have too mnay other projects to do in the meantime.

I won't go with 3"; just 2.5" all the way through. I don't want to lose any NA driveability.

 

According to Warpspeed the 2.5" or 3.0" Y-pipe made NO difference in the SC application, but I question if that's with a stock cat/catback, especially with nitrous and a 3.5L.

I'm still searching to find who's dynoed a 2.5" vs. 3.0" Y-Pipe to see if there really is ANY loss of torque/hp for 3.0L NA applications. I doubt with the manual transmission you'd really notice a little tq loss anyways.

Without removing the cat and upgrading the Y-pipe, I doubt you would gain much. I was just hoping next time you dyno you would disconnect the catback to see what was the maximum gain possible with any size catback and nitrous. Oh well.

 

Even if there wouldnt be much difference in hp there would be a big difference in noise. Larger exhausts are going to make the car sound louder and I have long since outgrowned the fart can muffler days. It would irritate the bejesus outta me to have a loud droning exhaust.

 

Great dyno. Good thing you are running lots of fuel. Number 5 and 6 cylinders are really working hard with the dry kit. I guess I can step up to 125 shot without anything to worry about. You fuel system plumbing looks great.