ethorn

I had the TSB performed by my dealer, and watched them do it. They did it several times better than the document said. But in my case this was destined to fail. This is because the TSB didn't do anything about what was creating the noise.

This friday I removed the rear seat, then the C-Pillar covers, and finally the Back Deck. Then I removed all of the internal frabric of the trunk and spare tire. With all of this out it still rattled. I started to pound my fist on the back deck with everything off and the rattle was very loud. But it took a while to pinpoint the cause. It turns out that the seatbelt coils are mounted by an arm and are free hanging on that arm.

If while pounding I pushed against the center seatbelt coil the rattle went away. Not great engineering. I taped 2 rubber gromets to the back of the setbelt coil frame and remounted it. This pushed agains a wall in the deck to prevent the coil from vibrating, and therefore keep it from rattling. It was beautiful silence. Well mostly, the other 2 belt coils vibrated too, but no where near as much since the deck doesn't vibrate as much on the edges as it does in the center.

Just remember to re-attach the seatbelts to the floor pan BEFORE re-installing the rear seatback. Also put the C-Pillar covers back on BEFORE the seat back. I accidentally attached the seatback first, then went to attach the center seatbelt to the floor pan to find its bolt would have to go through the solid frame rail of the seat back... removed it, mounted the seatbelt, then reattached the seat back. Later in the day went to replace the C-Pillar covers... nope... had to retake the seatback off again. It was aweful

I hope this helps... the gromets I used were actually 2 that were about 1/2 inch in total thickness. Used one on each side of the seatbelt coil as not to let the coil get twisted and jam. While everything was out I took the opportunity to buy some Dynamat bulk pack extreme. I installed it (pain in the but) and started off great, but got lazy as I continued. But a bulk pack (36sq feet) isn't enough to cover the entire trunk, deck, and seat pan for the back seat. I will remove it all again later and take it for the store to install it correctly next time.

GrayArea51

iTrader: (1)

I didn't even bother going to the dealer for the rear deck rattle. I had dynamat installed in the entire trunk and rear deck. The difference is amazing and the rattle is gone. Well, almost. It seems that when the bass is really pounding the brake light will vibrate against the rear window slightly. Nothing a couple pieces of self-adhesive felt wouldn't solve.

RaTgoesMaX

Great, I will check out the brake light against the window and the center seatback coil. If all that fails, I`ll make a trip to the dealer.

ethorn

There is a clip just below the brake light, so If that clip is actually all the way on I don't see how the brake light could possibly get close to the back window. My fingers can fit between the brake light housing and the window.

GrayArea51

iTrader: (1)

With a couple subs in the trunk it will hit the window. I had my trunk and rear deck filled with dynamat so that may have pushed the light a little closer, but with the subs it still vibrates a lot. At least it doesn't make any noise anymore!

ethorn

OK.... I didn't realize you added to the system. After putting dynamat in most of the trunk area and over the rear wheel wells There seems to have been a lot of lost bass in the bose. It seemed flat before, but it is a lot richer sounding now. I like things flat, not boomy. All a matter of personal preference though. I want to hear it the way it was recorded.

lilchina

Took my 2004 Maxima SE in to Bankstone Nissan Lewisville for the clattering that was coming from the seat belt mounts and their technician said it definitely is a design flaw. I not sure what they used but the clatter is now gone. They did all of the seat belt mounts. I also was getting alot of clicking sounds from my headliner. I have a sun roof. The put foam spacers through out the headliner to decrease the flexing which cause the clicking and poping sounds. That fixed that problem. Now I can drive with out the the radio. without annoying sounds. The did the rear deck TSB but that didn't fix the orginal clattering sound in the back. So the clattering sound can be fixed but it must be custome job to fix it.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

for you guys who have a decent setup in the trunk did the dynamat make the bass louder, cleaner, or both?

ethorn

dynamat on the stock bose did a lot to clean and deepen it... I did almost the entire floor pan in the trunk and the wheel wells (kill some of that annoying road noise). IDK about custome speaker mounts.

slickrick

iTrader: (12)

so do you think its worth it to dynamate the spare tire well? i was just thinking on doing the trunk lid and t he area between the taillights on the car.

ethorn

I think the most important place to start dynamat if you want to reduce road noise, which will in turn increase the percieved speaker sounds and quality of sound, is the floor pan and wheel wells. Also the back deck itself. Then spread from there. Unfortunatly to do the wheel wells or the back deck you will have to remove the back seat. Not all the way if you can work around it, but it will at least have to be unbolted. (if you don't remove it fully it will save you having to unbolt the seat belts.

There are 2 hooks on either end of the back seat bottom. Pull those and lift up. Then drive around. you would be amazed at the amount of road noise that seat blocks.