I wanna install my amp ans subs from my old car, but I wanna hook it up to the stock radio. I need to know what modal PAC let me run the rca outputs to my amp. I know its been said on here before but I cant find it. Please help me out, Im gettin the need for some bumpin in my trunk. Thanks.

 

Get a line out converter. It converts your stock speaker wire into RCAs.

Check ebay, I got mine for 10bucks including shipping.

-MO-

 

i know i can do that, but i want the pac so i could get a better frequency then tat high pass, ive seen it on here before. does any one know where i can buy it or at leas tthe model number.

 

You will want the OEM-1 with Kit AOEM-NIS2 I believe.

 

Where do I connect this?
This is exactly what I need for my Basslink install. The question is, anyone knows where is this hooked up to?

 

hey wakkus, this is too expensive for what you need it for. get a hi/low adapter like that post #2. it also goes by the name line out adapter. see you local audio shop they will know...

I've done this save some cash....

 

Line out converter is the cheapest way overall. Should not be much of a difference over the PAC. Just telling you the route I went. 1600 watts peak power and almost 1000 RMS....I am doing fine so far, still on stock non-Bose stereo.

 

Ok but you have to splice your factory amp wires?
Where do you connect that?

 

anywere you can get to the wires. the rear deck, behind the radio ect, ect. the idea is to save money here so the rear deck is most likely since you won't need a long a$$ rca cable costing 40+ dollars. put it in the trunk and splice it to the spk wires going to the deck. then you will need bout 3ft of rca cable running cheap on the pocket, you know.



don't scare yourself by saying splicing amp wires. it just the wires going into the rear spk's thats all...

 

Ok Niq now I read your other post... sorry to keep asking the same question. Anyway the Basslink is 200W RMS. I need a 200W H/L converter right?

 

nope, one size fits all. you are not running power from it just signal. it is not like a fuse. all it is signal to the amp.

 

I'm just checking here

http://search.ebay.com/line-out-conv...fkrZ1QQfromZR8

So you say that any of there will work for me?

 

these look diffrent than the one I have, but it looks to be the same thing. just simply hook up two wires to the left side, the two to the right and thats it. run all your power wires to the amp and you are set.

if you don't wanna risk it on ebay just go to a local audio shop, they are cheap anywhere. 10- 15 bucks is all if you don't wanna wait.

 

I had an Infinity BassLink in my BWM convert....was spliced in the same way. Actually, just take it to any stereo shop and they should be able to do it for you. The most expensive part is installing the battery power cable and a nice thick ground wire. BassLink had some good punch for a small system, you should be fine. Actually on the line out, mine was installed under the dash, they said tapping in from the rear would cause more of a loss....hence, I paid a more expensive price for taking the dash apart. Again, just my 2 cents.

 

Thanks a lot.. I'll keep you updated !!!

 

Not a problem, this is how I installed the BassLink in the back of my BMW convert. Max has a bigger trunk but I think with it being centered you will be better off. I have nothing bad to say about the BassLink, for my convert....it did a nice job. Infinity makes some good stuff.

 

i just bought the PAC SNI-35 line out converter, that will work on my non bose max right?

 

yea that will work. don't matter if its bose or not....

 

thanks for the quick response tek, my max will be the first car i havent replaced the HU in and i just wanted to make sure

 

no prob, its the best way to get a box pounding in the trunk w/o a aftermarket radio.

 

When you splice the speaker wires, we need to make sure to do it to the wires coming into the Bose amplifier, not from the amp to the speakers. I believe that would cause some noise on the system, or the signal going into your second amp will not be clean, 'cause it will be an amplified signal, to be amplified again.

 

if you do it that way, splice the spk wires coming out the radio so you get a un-amped signal....

 

Sure, but I'm not taking the dash apart to make this mod. I'll just look for the right wire coming into the amp.
And Tek, to take the amp cover off (inside the trunk), do I just pull on the clips? They are really tight, and I don't wanna brake one while trying to expose the amp wires.....

 

Isn't the quality difference of using a hi/lo compared to one of the PAC AOEM-NIS2 a lot less since your tapping into wires rather than getting a signal from the head unit itself?
Another good thing about these PAC adapters is that it has a total of 2 sets of RCAs making hook up to two amps real simple...or am I mistaken.
I'm considering putting in a sub or two...but haven't figured out which way I wanna go. Hi/Lo or PAC AOEM-NIS2....Capacitor or no Cap...

 

I wouldn't mess with any of that. try spilicing behind the radio. take the wires coming from the HU. you will need a long rca, but it will work like you want..

I will also be scared to break something... go the safe way if you like..


**** SPARK .......... this is what I was running in my 02 max with a hi/lo adapter just fine...

 

Teq---I guess if you're only using the signal for bass then a hi/lo is fine...but you'd get noise if it's for highs.

Your equipment probably had all kinds of noise filters in it anyway by the looks of it

 

no noise at all, no filters at all. just plain 'ol system. the highs were fine no distortion at all. I had the factory HU with rockford high's and the subs wich I used the hi/low adapter for. cd quality there I will not take anything less for my cars. I hate cheap systems.

I won't recommend any product if I didn't get it to sound good. had no probs ever with it. I did infact install two EQ's and 3 caps a crossover with 0 gauge wire power and ground. one amp and two subs. simple as that no problems..

 

Basslink's almost in. I have the power wire and ground wire secured, the basslink fixed on the trunk, still need to figure out which wire comes from the HU to the factory amp. The factory amp has a blue plug and a white plug, and like 45,000 wires on each...

 

you are looking for the remote wire I assume.... its blue.... to find out get a test light if it turn on when the car is on, and if it turn off when the car is off, thats the wire..

 

Hi Tek, it's been a while since I had time to log into the forum.

Nope, I'm not looking for the remote, what I'm looking for is the wire that brings the Input signal to the amp. Since I have a Hi/Lo converter, can I tap into the wires going into the factory subs? The subs on the rear deck have this connection:
- left (driver's) sub : white, black/gray
- right (pssgr's) sub : white, black/gray, black (higher gauge), yellow (higher gauge)

 

yea do that, they say the sound will be lower but I never had this prob...


if you wanna be safe don't cut any wires just splice them...

 

Sure I'm going to try that... but is there a problem if I mix up the + wire with the - wire? I don't know if the positive is the black/gray or the white....

 

ah ****, I dunno eigther.... I bet the black is the ground.. and I dunno if in reverse matters....

you got me there.......... sorry........... but good news is if you get it wrong you won't blow a fuse or anything, it would just sound wrong..... good luck..

 

Wakkus, please let us know when you complete the installation. I'd like to know where you placed the sub and if you like the bass produced by Basslink. I've been thinking of adding BassLink to my bose premium(?) system for a while, but when I was doing my research, an installation guy discouraged me from installing BassLink, as according to him, I wouldn't get much bass out of it...

Mike

 

Want a serious converter?
May cost more but believe me, what an impressive unit.
Also has an input for aux source (MP3, Sat, etc.)
It's the CLEANSWEEP by JL Audio.
May be too much for just adding a Basslink sub, but if you're looking for
high end sound, a must have unit.

 

Just ran into a setback with the Basslink, the power cable is too thick (#4) for the terminal on the basslink, so I'll feel better replacing it for a #8 wire, same size as the ground wire. Bad thing's gonna be passing that cable again.... I'll keep you guys updated!