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Racingline Endlinks Install : PICS :

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Old 06-08-2007, 04:40 PM
  #81  
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so if you have a lowered max, it's best to extend the endlinks? i wonder if autozone carries the bushings? when i went in to get stuff for an oil change, i saw a ES display.
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:46 AM
  #82  
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I've re-installed my endlink setup this morning.
I basically did what coitaltie did in his pictures.
I got the 3" bolts from HomeDepot along with new washers and nuts.
If you can't find 3" bolts with the same thread size from taz, just
get another kind with new nuts. You may want to bring an original nut to match the thread and the endlink just to make sure that the new bolt can
fit through it.
For the washers closest to the bolt head, I followed coitaltie and used
four from ES 9.8105 bushing set.
I also used loc-tight on the nuts and painted the entire thing with rustoleum
to protect against rust.
I also greased up the bushings and the endlink pivot joints.
Taz, if you are reading this, you may want to consider supplying beefier bushings (and give update on the front strut bar).
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:30 AM
  #83  
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3 of the 4 bushings on my endlinks have busted - resulting in a knocking noise - i assume from the metal on metal - are the bushings something i can pick up from home depot or are they specially made just for these endlinks

i have also emailed Sales@racinglineperformance.com but figured a post here couldn't hurt in case someone else has this problem
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:59 AM
  #84  
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My car is lowered and I recommend installing the endlinks in the same size as received out the box, no need to extend them, they work best that way IMO...
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:16 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by OmarBadu
3 of the 4 bushings on my endlinks have busted - resulting in a knocking noise - i assume from the metal on metal - are the bushings something i can pick up from home depot or are they specially made just for these endlinks

i have also emailed Sales@racinglineperformance.com but figured a post here couldn't hurt in case someone else has this problem
after i took them off and replaced them back with the OEM endlinks it looked like actually 4 of the bushings had busted - i went to ace hardware and home depot - both didn't have the bushings or anything that was a usable equivalent - ace had a rubber grommet that was somewhat close but i was worried about the load it would take to bust it

i ordered these as soon as they became available on this forum (i can't recall when that was) - here is what they look like today


if the image doesn't show up for you - hotlinking may be disabled and you can click on the link
http://thewolfweb.com/photos/00481809.jpg
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Old 06-15-2007, 03:26 PM
  #86  
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You will not find bushing replacement in a hardware store.
Do what coitaltie and I have done...replace them with Engery Suspension.
Do a search online of the part numbers listed in this thread.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:04 AM
  #87  
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Per my progress rsb instructions say the swaybar brackets 38ft lbs and the endlinks 22ft lbs.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:59 AM
  #88  
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I also ordered p/n 9.5161 greaseable swaybar brackets and bushings from energy suspensions. Question on the endlinks do you use axle bearing grease or lithium grease on the metal swivels being that it will be metal to metal contact?
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:23 AM
  #89  
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ordered my 9.8105 set this morning - thanks for the recommendation guys
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:12 PM
  #90  
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The bushings from 9.8105 may be too short depending on the bolt you get.
The 3" replacement bolt I got from HomeDepot does not have the threads
as deep as I wanted. But I am using 9.8106 instead which are a bit taller
than the 9.8105. You could order with a B suffix at the end of the product
number if you want black. R is for red.
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Old 06-22-2007, 07:22 PM
  #91  
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so please guys can someone be exact with the part no. that we should be purchasing.

because i am finding both 9.9105, 9.8105, 9.8106...and ect. would someone be a little more precise and clear...because it seems like it would solve my problem however...just getting lost tryin to figure out what to get. sorry peeps...
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:47 AM
  #92  
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Get 9.8105 and just use the washers.
Get 9.8106 for the bushings.
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Old 06-24-2007, 01:16 AM
  #93  
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The link in the original post doesn't work for me on two different computers. Is anyone else having this problem?
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Old 06-24-2007, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke_Screen
The link in the original post doesn't work for me on two different computers. Is anyone else having this problem?
CAuse the website I used to administer has been taken over by an evil NAtzi bastard. So the link is now updated and fixed.

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Old 06-24-2007, 06:24 PM
  #95  
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I don't understand why we should be getting the 98105 for the washers and the 98106 for the bushings...why are you guys doing that exactly? Just because the red bushing is too "thick," or what?

I was planning on just getting the 98105 for a full replacement, but I was also wondering what the washers are exactly used for?
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:33 PM
  #96  
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The 9.8105 washers are used to replace the ones closest to the bolt head.
These washers are wider and thicker. If you can find them elsewhere, then you don't need 9.8105. For the ones by the bolt tail (threads), you can use the ones enclosed.

The 9.8105 bushings may be too short based on the replacement bolts.
I got 3" bolts and the threads only go about an inch deep so shorter bushings will not give too much compression. The 9.8106 are taller and thiner.

Add R suffix to the part number will be red and G for black.
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:07 PM
  #97  
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so if I keep the "stock" bolts, then I should get the black bushings?
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:53 PM
  #98  
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yes you will have to keep the black bushings
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:53 PM
  #99  
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Believe me, I've tried using 9.8106 with the bolt supplied by tax and it is not long enough. I think it's around 2". I went to HomeDepot and got the 3" along with new nuts because the threads are different. But as I have mentioned above, you will need to be concerned with how far down does the threads go on the new bolt. So if you get a bushing that is too short, then the nut will not tighten enough to add compression to the bushings.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:55 PM
  #100  
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k...sry for being a

So it's either:

black bushings+washers from the red bushings set+stock bolts

OR

red bushings+washers that come with them+3'' bolts that I would have to buy

.....does that summarize everything?

What is the main difference between the red/black bushings? Only thickness and color? I assume that red is thicker, correct?

once again, sorry
dan
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:01 PM
  #101  
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You can order 9.8105R (red) or 9.8105G (black).
You can also order 9.8106R (red) or 9.8106G (black).
The colors here have nothing to do with thickness.
9.8105 includes 8 thicker washers. Out of these 8, just use 4 of them.
9.8105 has fatter and shorter bushings.
9.8106 has slightly thinner and taller bushings. This does not come with washers.
If you can find some thicker washers from somewhere else, you don't
need to order 9.8105.

So as a summary, here's what I did:
Ordered 9.8105R and use 4 washers from it.
Ordered 9.8106G and used the bushings.
Bought four 3" bolts with new nuts.
Re-used 4 thinner washers from taz original set.
Used loc tight on all threads and greased bushings & pivot joint.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:17 PM
  #102  
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aha, gotcha

So I am going to order the 9.8105 set since I want THICKER bushings and I will just get longer bolts to accompany that

thanks
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:46 PM
  #103  
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Follow everything Albert said, but if you find the bolt runs out of threads, get a fully threaded bolt. Still secure.
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Old 06-26-2007, 02:14 AM
  #104  
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Yes, thicker means shorter. Like coitaltie have said, the threads may not go deep enough depending on the bolt you get. So a shorter bushing may not give enough compression when tightening the nut.
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