Hello, I have a few questions for you experienced car owners (this being my first car, I want to clarify a few things).

My manual says break-in period is 1200.
My dealer said break-in period was 2000.

Which should I believe and what did you use as your "break in period"?

I just reached 1235 today and I wanted to know. Also, my dealer said not to take the car above 70 mph to ensure proper break-in but the manual doesnt mention that.

The manual only mentions that one musnt sustain a constant speed (high or low) for extended periods of time. It also says not to take it above 4000 rpms which I didn't.

Also, my car is pulling to the right a bit. I don't remember hitting any potholes and if any, all minor normal potholes. I'm confident my air pressure in all my tires are even, but once the tires cool down, I'll double check this. Assuming tire pressure is even, would warranty cover something like fixing alignment after only 1200 miles??

Thanks in advance for all the questions I have.

 

Silvermaxima06; this is what the manual says and is true as you quoted:

The manual only mentions that one musnt sustain a constant speed (high or low) for extended periods of time. It also says not to take it above 4000 rpms which I didn't.


70 MPH is not close to 4000 rpms so I wouldn't believe that BS, that is what they said about the cars built in the 1980's.

Your car pulls to the right and mine pulls to the left and I have steering wheel vibration when braking. This is my third 6th Gen Max (two autos and one Manual) and none have had any problems. I traded mine because I didnt get the options I wanted and regret that I didnt get one fully loaded. This is what happens when you are impatient like I am.

The alignment is under warranty for the first year or 12,000 miles I believe. If you are getting a pulling to either side, take it back. I am taking mine in next week to get my two issues worked out. Also I noticed what someone else said recently on the org, grinding in my drivers side window from the motor when I let the window up and down.

Seems like a quality control issues at Nissan because all of the cars don't behave this way. I am going to ride with my service person when they test drive it so they wont pull some B.S. that they cannot duplicate the problem. If it continues after the service I will trade it for a 07 G-35 and I have had mine for only one month.

My next car I will drive around for a few hours before I purchase to make sure there are no issues.

Good Luck.

 

Thanks a lot for applying. I really appreciate it.

I'm going to be putting possibly up to and aroun 25k on this car a year if I dont move closer to my work place, so I'm really paranoid about the smallest things espcially after I woke up one morning to a nail in my tire side wall (Right rear).

Also I have another question, when I took a look under my car and around my wheel wells and places like that, I saw clearly where rust proofing (under coating, or whatever its called) was done and other parts where metal is clearly shown. I dont want my car to fall apart from salt and stuff during the winter.

Does anyone know anything about the undercoating which, according to my salesman, Nissan does it through the factory and its standard protection.

Also, when would you recommend me changing my oil because I drive about 125 miles a day round trip (I work/commute only 9 days every two weeks, great working for the government)... so I'm going to hit the 2000, 3000 plataeus really soon. But I've read in some parts of these boards that some people change their oil a little early and also stay away from synthetic until around 10,000.

Since I drive literally around 85-90% highway and average a solid 50-60mph for my commute, there is no wear down and break downs from a typical city stop and go commute. Just wondering what you would reccomend.

Again, thanks for the tips.

 

I too just recently got an 06 SE a month ago. I followed what the manual mentioned. Just hit 1,250 miles and and changed my oil with mobil extended performance. Is this good or bad? I had to floor it a few times to get the feel for it.

 

You did your first oil change at 1,250? I just looked in the manual again, but I see no mention of doing this.

 

Believe your maintenance manual, most car salesman don't know what the **** they're talking about...

 

The initial break-in is 1200 miles, per the manual. Your dealer wants you to be certain it is broken-in by pushing the higher mileage and the restricted top speed (70 MPH). They are OK to follow, but not necessary. The requirement to not drive consistently at the same speed and the Maximum engine RPM (4 K) are the critical factors in addition to the 1200 miles.

Turns out that there are different break-in mileages for the VQ engine. The second is when the engine has enough running time with dino motor oil installed and you are safe to switch to synthetic. More on this below.
I don't think that the Nissan plant in Tennessee does a good job of alligning the wheels in new cars they build. My 04 was not properly alligned, but I did not find the problem until I had developed cups in all 4 tires (caused by the rear-end mis-allignment and rotating my tires every 7.5 K miles). I now get my wheel allignment checked once a year -- much cheaper than having to buy new tires.

You should change your oil the first two times using only dino oil and following the 3750 oil change interval (OCI). After two changes on that OCI, you can push the dino oil further to about 5 K miles or so. Nissan says that the VQ engine needs about 20 K miles before switching to Synthetic motor oil. The consensus of most knowledgable posters on the Fluids and Lubes section of this site is that you should not consider changing to Synthetic until after about 10 K miles or so. I switched at 7.5 K miles and experienced slight oil consumption until about 40 K miles -- likely that my VQ did not fully break-in on Dino oil after those 7.5 K miles and the much slicker Synthetic slowed down the final break-in of this engine.

You are driving mainly highway miles with enough mileage each day you drive to completely warm-up the engine. These are the easiest miles possible on motor oil. You should be able to use a 7.5 K mile OCI with Synthetic motor oil. You should not go to a 10 K miles OCI until after your extended warrenty on the Maxima power train expires. At that time you can consider going to 10 K miles or more. Most who use these extended OCIs recommend changing the oil filter (but not the oil) at between 5 K and 6 K miles -- or about half-way between oil changes.

 

SilverMaxima06 - I feel you are getting good advice from 3.5 Lover and SilverMax_04. I would not argue with anything they said. Although the manual does not mention the 70 mph limit during break-in, I do try to hold the speed below 70 for a few hundred miles any time I am driving on new tires. I have found over many years of driving that seems to result in better tire performance and a less troublesome tire life.

Although the 'official' break-in period is 1200 miles, I did not 'go for broke' immediately afterwards. I sort of gradually stepped up the action between 1200 miles and 2400 miles. At that point, I began 'pushing the envelope', taking it over 100 mph (on a deserted straight rural highway) a few times, and also briskly checking out the accelleration.

MaxiMaxxx - Although it will do no harm to change the oil at 1250, with the Q35, it is not necessary to make the first change before the scheduled 3750 miles point.

Is Mobil Extended performance dino or synthetic? I would not change to synthetic before at least 10,000, although 15K or 20K might be even better.

Of course there are those who will say it is fine to switch right after buying the car. That is their perogative, and they will always find and quote something in the synthetic oil brochures to back their decision.

I personally feel that is unwise, and that the Nissan techs are probably correct in saying synthetic oil reduces the engine's ability to have moving parts wear ever so slightly in order to fit and mesh perfectly, which makes for a better and more efficient engine.

SilverMax06 - The pull to the right this early in the car's life is not acceptable, and should cost you nothing. Insist the dealer correct this.

 

And you always get good advice from "light" {except for the time when he did not know that the parking brake on the Max was actually a small drum brake around each rear wheel axel).

 

SilverMax_04 - Don't be too quick to support my views. I am simply relaying the automotive knowledge I learned on my 1949 Studebaker. So far, that has sufficed.

But, at some point, the technology of the Maxima will leave the Studie in the dust, and I will no longer be able to help folks with their Maximas.

Even then, I should still be able to assist Camry and Accord owners, as their technology will still trail the Maxima.

 

I think it is more than just the Studie -- I have owned only 1 Max, while you have (if memory serves me correctly) owned 4 or 5. You have much longer experience with the Maxima, and that comes through in your advice.

 

Thanks all, you've been really helpful.

I was wondering if you guys also had any knowledge or experience with the rust protection Nissan supposedly offers through factory according to my salesman. Thanks again!

 

Ok so I did my break in correct....but assuming one didn't follow the break in procedures what would happen to the engine or the car itself?

 

My 04 does not have any rust protection added by either the factory or the dealer. The steel in the Max is supposed to resist corrosion, but that applies to all Maximas. I think you salesman was telling a fib -- possibly to move a Max that had spray-on "rust inhibitor" sprayed on it -- my making it sound like it had been "factory installed."

The break-in procedure is designed to ensure that the engine, trannie, tires, etc {all moving parts} are properly working and working together. In particular, the VQ engine needs to "learn" to work properly by wearing-in those parts that are not exactly like they will be when properly broken-in. By doing this, you ensure that these parts work properly and work longer than they will if this was not done properly. It ensures longer vehicle (and engine) life plus better operation during that life.

 

Break-ins are for longevity and performance. The first few K miles are important for piston rings to set, piston surface, and bearing (cams & journals) surface to mate at a microscopic level. If you follow the recommendations (dino oil, the no high rev stuff, and always vary the engine speed), your engine will have less blow-by around the rings, thus better performance, longer lasting oil, etc. All polished surfaces will have the ability to endure higher loads/heat without a hot spot or seizure.

If you use you car for grocery shopping only, then your car will be in a perpetual break-in period. No issue here. If you have a lead foot or plan some towing, then a good break-in will make your engine that much more reliable in the long run.

It seems that after about 10k the amount of metallic residue present in the oil becomes very low (oil analysis), indicating that all surfaces have mated. Then using Synthetic oil seems fine. Remember, before Synthetic oil, engine would reach 200-300,000 miles without a rebuild. Dino oil is very good when not subjected to overheating and is properly filtered.

I strongly believe in a good break-in and fresh oil(s). But, it seems most wear will occur during cold start-up anyway.

 

I agree with all of your points in your full post (#15).

I would add one point to the sentence above: "Most good-quality dino oil is good, but a few may promote the formation of sludge in your motor oil."

I would also add a point that applies to both dino and Synthetic motor oils: With the recent change to lower sulfur content in US gasoline, problems with acid formation in all motor oils has been substantially reduced.

 

Thanks for all the advice and now I don't know what to do. The reason changed to synthetic is that I remember my ex-bf used to say that synthetic is better. He suggested to changed the oil right away but I forgot to mention that the car is brand new. Will this oil harm my car? Should I changed it back to regular oil? I'm goin on a 5 hr. trip next weekend and it's all highway. What do you guys suggest? Thanks...


Maxine Tate

 

Maximaxxx - I wouldn't bother to change back to dino until the next regular oil change. Running the synthetic from day one does not actually harm your engine; it just greatly slows down the process the moving parts need to go through in order to perfectly mate with each other. This just means your engine will be 'broken in' (for maximum operating efficiency) at a reduced pace.

Switching back to dino at your next change will allow the engine parts to do the mating necessary for a perfect fit in a more timely manner than with synthetic.

For regular highway driving, good clean dino oil is very fine no matter what mileage your car may have on the odo. The engine is literally loafing when driving at legal speeds on open highway.

If it makes you feel better, there are those here on the ORG who switch to synthetic at the first oil change, and swear that using it from day one is good for the engine.

For those who may be doing elapsed time runs or checking accelleration times before the car is properly broke in, remember that the 'little black box' can rat on you, and any resulting engine problems may or may not be fixed under warranty.

SilverMaxima06 - I'm not sure you saw 'rust protection' under the wheel wells. Nissan coats a few things like the inside of the rear wheel wells with a sound and vibration absorbent material in order to reduce the amount of noise reaching into the passenger cabin.

It seems to work well reducing the noise, but has been a problem up north (especially in Canada), where the material increases the rate of ice accumulation, and actually causes the ice to build to the point it rubs against the tires.

As for the rust protection package, I would not recommend it on any car, no matter where the car is driven. I have read of situations where the holes drilled into the chassi members in order to get the rustproofing in actually allowed salt water into areas it would otherwise have never reached.

The person spraying on the rust inhibitor often gets the stuff on everything under the car, and there are things under there that it shouldn't be on. I feel the Nissan no-rust warranty should be sufficient.

 

From my experience after the first 20 minutes of driving I would have no problem redlining the car. After we build our race motors we stay below about 5,000 rpm for about 20 minutes then we put the pedal to the floor! Just make sure to change the oil at about 1,000 miles for the first time then every 5,000 miles after that.

 

I had about 500 on the odo when I first went WOT...then changed the oil around 1k. No problems what-so-ever and the motor still pulls like a champ.

 

It is your car and you can treat it as you wish. I suspect that the VQ can stand an occasion WOT before 1,200 miles -- but I would not do it to my Max.

There was a post elsewhere on this site (I can no longer find it) where the person had driven his brand new Max between S California and Vegas and back again, cruising at from 90 MPH to 120 MPH (he complained that the traffic had slowed him down to 90 more than he liked because he wanted to cruise at 120). This person was now having problems with the VQ not running properly. This driving means that for about 3 hours each way this VQ was turning at from 3.2 K to 4.3 K RPMs. No wonder it now is having problems.

As usual, "light" gives good advice in his post above, particularly for Maxine.

 

\

I would have no problem redlining an engine that was built for a race car but a factory car that rolled off an assembly line that was made for the masses is completely different, and like someone mentioned break in is not so much for the engine but for the entire car, everything needs to set in place, brakes, suspension, tires, trans, front and rear axles

 

My 2006 is running great with no problems and I have 14k on it.

Changed oil at 1000, and then just stomped on it and hit redline plenty of times, then changed the oil again at 4000, then again at 7000 and then put synthetic M1 in at 10k, gonna change to CastrolSyntec at 15k, AutoZone had no M1, but as far as power and performance I feel the car has gotten better at every step.

I did hit 80mph in the 1st 1200 miles but the tach was at 2 1/2 to 3000 RPM and I was light on the gas and I did vary the RPM, at that time my commute was an hour each way.

Synthetic should be put in after 10k, at least that is what I have read and learned from the oil forums and engine guys I have dealt with, in fact my engine has not burnt any oil

 

When in doubt, follow the manual. NISSAN recommends mineral (dino) based oils, API grade SL. First 1200 miles vary RPM but stay below 4000 RPM, easy on gas and brake pedal. Synthetic is fine otherwise Mobil would put a disclaimer on each quart if there was a risk and NISSAN would advice against it.

I would be reluctant to follow the WOT after the 20 minute break-in advice. Such race engines will do fine on a track for a few thousands miles but you want your MAX to stay reliable past 100K miles.

 

Search the Blogs on Castrol Syntec. Its not really a synthetic oil but an "hydroisomerized" petroleum base stock. Most 'real' synthetic oils use close to 100% PAO base oil. Lots of deceptive advertising out there.
Hydroisomerized base oils cost half the price to manufacture than PAO. Seems Mobil is not 100% PAO anymore, thanks to cheap competition/imitation.

 

I think Royal Purple is the best oil out there by far. This is just going on performance feel and not dyno or uoa. I tried M1, Penzoil Plantium and Amsoil. Those other cant touch Royal Purple.

 

dont drive at one speed, it needs constant variation, dont floor it, your car wont rust until 15 years most likely and nissan covers rust for like 6 years or something anyway...that is the last thing you should worry about.

 

I thank all those who have replied.

So when the time comes for my first oil change, what do I buy?

 

www.royalpurple.com

 

Can I find this at my local auto stores (advanced auto parts, napa auto parts, autozone, etc?)

 

Check their website. They list dealers that carry it.

 

So whats the advantage of this brand versus castrol gtx?

 

Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com There's a lot of useful information regarding types of oils, change intervals, etc. Really a lot of information.

They are correct not to use synthetic oil until at least 10k miles. I would wait until 15k miles before using synthetic oil and change it out every 7000mi.
Now, its not really worth buying synthetic oil if you're not going to extend your oil change interval (cost being the main factor). Any good conventional oil is more than adaquate for 3k change intervals.

So, regarding the type of oil you should use (not in any order).

Conventional oil (for 3k oil change intervals):
Any good conventional oil such as Castrol GTX, Pennzoil, Havoline, Exxon, etc. I stick with the big brand names and stay away from the no-name ones.

Synthetic oil (for 7k oil change intervals):
Mobil 1
Pennzoil Platinum (Great sales on this stuff at Pep Boys, just check their ad every sunday)
Amsoil Synthetic (expensive stuff!)
Castrol Syntec

I've used a lot of Pennzoil, Shell, and Exxon in Maxima. I'm currently going through two cases of Pennzoil Synthetic Blend but once finished, I'm changing to Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic.

Hope this helps!

 

I would go to the dealer(warranty) for the first one.

 

That is like asking a room full of people "what car should I buy?" You will get many different answers.

If you check out the stickies on the Fluids & Lubes section of this site, you will see that the "experts" don't all agree on the best Synthetic motor oil, but like (in declining order) Amsoil, Mobil 1, German Castrol, and Royal Purple. When it comes to dino motor oil, Castrol GTX seems the be the hands-down winner.

In my 04 I used GTX for the first oil change and at 7,500 miles went to Mobil 1 (I had a stock from my previous car). If I could do it all again, I would have used GTX until 15,000 miles and then switched to Mobil 1.

As was posted above, you should only consider Synthetic if you plan to extend the OCI (Oil Change Interval) to at least 7,500 miles -- the maximum mileage that Nissan will allow on their extended powertrain warranty.

 

I bought one of those 150 dollar free oil for life memberships... avg oil change cost is ~45 bucks at teh stealership so i figure i can run through the first 1.5 years on stealership oil changes and save $$$. once there Oil changes will occur only with Synthetic Mobile1 the 15000 oil...

Im not sure on the garantee though, I change oil every 3 months and I drive ~1.5-2K in 3 months.

 

In Seattle, most Napa stores carry Royal Purple. They carried 5w-30 and not 5w-20 so I bought mine off ebay for something like 6 quarts for 44 bucks delivered. I think I'll buy it off ebay again next time, its just not worth my time and effort to find a store that sells RP 5w-20.

 

Honda (which is what you are driving) uses this very light motor oil in all of their new vehicles. I personally like to use 10w30 in all but the winter time when I switch to the slightly lighter 5w30 weight motor oil.

I also find it interesting that Nissan USA recommends 5w30 for the Max in this country. But in Europe they recommend 10w30. IMO this is because the US Government encourages lighter weight motor oil for a marginal improvement in gas mileage -- while Nissan in Europe goes for the slightly better protection of a slightly heavier 10w30 weight motor oil.

Calgary2800 -- why are you (a Honda driver) posting on a Maxima site? I realize we have good info here, but was surprised that it applied that much to an Accord.