Problems with Air Conditioner
#1
Problems with Air Conditioner
Hi All,
I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
My AC will not blow out cold air. Either in the "Auto" setting or by passing
the Auto and useing the "mode" setting.
It worked great last summer. I do get a strange sound like running water when I turn on the Max, but it goes away shortly.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
MC
I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
My AC will not blow out cold air. Either in the "Auto" setting or by passing
the Auto and useing the "mode" setting.
It worked great last summer. I do get a strange sound like running water when I turn on the Max, but it goes away shortly.
Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
MC
#2
I have the exact same problem. I took it to Nissan to ask them how much to recharge the system. They told me $89 for the first can and they go from there. I never made it too my appoinment though. I plan on taking it to some shop and letting them refill the freon soon though.
#5
My A/C was running "warmer" than in my brother's max last summer. I kind of didn't make anything out of it as eventually the cold would kick in.
Last week I went to the dealer and complained about some strange "whirring" noise coming from the engine compartment. It would only be on when the blower/ac was on it it would be proportional to the RPM of the engine.
I was told that its some pulley and to come back the next day. Next day I showed up and get a call mid-day that its the A/C compressor and that its dead. I got the compressor, belts and engine mounts replaced courtesy of Leo at Bayridge Nissan. Its all GOOOOOOOOOOD now!
Last week I went to the dealer and complained about some strange "whirring" noise coming from the engine compartment. It would only be on when the blower/ac was on it it would be proportional to the RPM of the engine.
I was told that its some pulley and to come back the next day. Next day I showed up and get a call mid-day that its the A/C compressor and that its dead. I got the compressor, belts and engine mounts replaced courtesy of Leo at Bayridge Nissan. Its all GOOOOOOOOOOD now!
#6
Water gurgling sounds under your dash are the "car needs burping" symptoms.
I'm going to loosely paraphrase what it is, so forgive the sloppiness.
You car has air in it's lines. Take it to Nissan if you don't feel like messing with this. OR-
Park on a hill with the nose of the car pointing up, pop open the radiator cap and accelerate to 3000rpms....No joke, many folks have done this to eliminate the air pockets in their systems.
Good luck!
Swee
I'm going to loosely paraphrase what it is, so forgive the sloppiness.
You car has air in it's lines. Take it to Nissan if you don't feel like messing with this. OR-
Park on a hill with the nose of the car pointing up, pop open the radiator cap and accelerate to 3000rpms....No joke, many folks have done this to eliminate the air pockets in their systems.
Good luck!
Swee
#7
Thanks for all the input. It is great to have this org!!
One more thing I noticed, that is strange. I have the NAVI, so
non Navi's may be different. But when I turn the AC temp down, the
colored line goes blue, and then changes to a mix of blue and red.
Does this make any sense?
Thanks Again
One more thing I noticed, that is strange. I have the NAVI, so
non Navi's may be different. But when I turn the AC temp down, the
colored line goes blue, and then changes to a mix of blue and red.
Does this make any sense?
Thanks Again
#10
[QUOTE=michaelcoletti]I know the Auto Parts stores sell the cans for the recharge.
Has anyone done it yourself? if so, how difficult is it, and what
shoule we watch out for?[/QUOTE
i think it's better if u take it to have it done don't even mess with it..I say that because if i'm not mistaken they have some kind of machine that sux out the gas (freon i believe)left in your system and they also lubricate the o rings? . I .ve done this to a car a that i had before(recharging it with the kit that they sell on auto part store) and it's never quite the same and aftar a while the cooling effect went away so IMO pay up and don't get your hand dirty
Has anyone done it yourself? if so, how difficult is it, and what
shoule we watch out for?[/QUOTE
i think it's better if u take it to have it done don't even mess with it..I say that because if i'm not mistaken they have some kind of machine that sux out the gas (freon i believe)left in your system and they also lubricate the o rings? . I .ve done this to a car a that i had before(recharging it with the kit that they sell on auto part store) and it's never quite the same and aftar a while the cooling effect went away so IMO pay up and don't get your hand dirty
#11
michaelcoletti,
You need gauges to check the low side pressure before you add anything. I have a real gauge set with hoses and valves. Advance sells this $15-$20 kit with a small colored gauge if you dare. Add too much R-134 and the compressor could suffer, may blow a seal or crack the cooling core. Some R-134 come with a dye to detect leaks. You need a UV light with the 'CSI' googles to see the dye where the leak is. Got a set at Advance Auto and it works.
If R-134 is too low (leak), a sensor will keep the compressor off. So, check if the compressor kicks in. Could be a fuse also. If the leak was big and air/moisture got in, the shop will have to put a vacuum pump on the system to empty it out, and then recharge it $$$. Check that both engine fans start when you turn the A/C on. If not, maybe a fuse.
I have two cars and do my own work so the tools were paid for after a few repairs. I also passed the EPA 608 and 609 a/c certification to better appreciate refrigerants.
To conclude, see a pro. If you mess up, it can cost you big time.
You need gauges to check the low side pressure before you add anything. I have a real gauge set with hoses and valves. Advance sells this $15-$20 kit with a small colored gauge if you dare. Add too much R-134 and the compressor could suffer, may blow a seal or crack the cooling core. Some R-134 come with a dye to detect leaks. You need a UV light with the 'CSI' googles to see the dye where the leak is. Got a set at Advance Auto and it works.
If R-134 is too low (leak), a sensor will keep the compressor off. So, check if the compressor kicks in. Could be a fuse also. If the leak was big and air/moisture got in, the shop will have to put a vacuum pump on the system to empty it out, and then recharge it $$$. Check that both engine fans start when you turn the A/C on. If not, maybe a fuse.
I have two cars and do my own work so the tools were paid for after a few repairs. I also passed the EPA 608 and 609 a/c certification to better appreciate refrigerants.
To conclude, see a pro. If you mess up, it can cost you big time.
#12
I have a very small leak in the A/C hose that runs along the upper left (passenger side) of the engine. I noticed some oil and green stuff on the outside of the hose and then saw it bubbling out of a pinhole in the hose. So i guess I have to go get that replaced $$$$$. Anyone else have a problem with this hose? I wonder if i have to go to the dealer because I can't find this hose listed at any auto-part stores yet.
#13
Originally Posted by michaelcoletti
I know the Auto Parts stores sell the cans for the recharge.
Has anyone done it yourself? if so, how difficult is it, and what
shoule we watch out for?
Has anyone done it yourself? if so, how difficult is it, and what
shoule we watch out for?
Originally Posted by madmik
michaelcoletti,
You need gauges to check the low side pressure before you add anything. I have a real gauge set with hoses and valves. Advance sells this $15-$20 kit with a small colored gauge if you dare. Add too much R-134 and the compressor could suffer, may blow a seal or crack the cooling core. Some R-134 come with a dye to detect leaks. You need a UV light with the 'CSI' googles to see the dye where the leak is. Got a set at Advance Auto and it works.
If R-134 is too low (leak), a sensor will keep the compressor off. So, check if the compressor kicks in. Could be a fuse also. If the leak was big and air/moisture got in, the shop will have to put a vacuum pump on the system to empty it out, and then recharge it $$$. Check that both engine fans start when you turn the A/C on. If not, maybe a fuse.
I have two cars and do my own work so the tools were paid for after a few repairs. I also passed the EPA 608 and 609 a/c certification to better appreciate refrigerants.
To conclude, see a pro. If you mess up, it can cost you big time.
You need gauges to check the low side pressure before you add anything. I have a real gauge set with hoses and valves. Advance sells this $15-$20 kit with a small colored gauge if you dare. Add too much R-134 and the compressor could suffer, may blow a seal or crack the cooling core. Some R-134 come with a dye to detect leaks. You need a UV light with the 'CSI' googles to see the dye where the leak is. Got a set at Advance Auto and it works.
If R-134 is too low (leak), a sensor will keep the compressor off. So, check if the compressor kicks in. Could be a fuse also. If the leak was big and air/moisture got in, the shop will have to put a vacuum pump on the system to empty it out, and then recharge it $$$. Check that both engine fans start when you turn the A/C on. If not, maybe a fuse.
I have two cars and do my own work so the tools were paid for after a few repairs. I also passed the EPA 608 and 609 a/c certification to better appreciate refrigerants.
To conclude, see a pro. If you mess up, it can cost you big time.
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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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03-12-2020 12:06 AM