OEM battery needs to be changed....any suggestions?
thinking about the optima batteries
not sure which one to get?
the red or the yellow and which size would fit my 2004 maxima

p.s. dont really have any major sounds mods done to my car..
just a 12" Alpine Sub..

 

I'd go with a Yellow Top. Go to your local part stores that carry them. They will get you the right size.

 

what's up with batteries. dealership told me mine needed to be replaced too.

 

Red is just fine unless you have a system. Any battery works actually. Maintenance free is usually better then the regular ones since its completely sealed. I usually just get one from Costco with more cold cranking amps.

 

Any reason why you would need to replace it so soon? They usually last for 5 years.

 

hey when they gottta gooooo...they gottaaa gooo....
could be many reasons...but as long you need to change it..just change it.... why waste time thinking about why it went bad...

 

i was leaning towards the red top optima as i had it in my last car and it lasted me for 3 years plus it gave my engine bay a nice cleaner look...ima check up with my local shop to figure out the correct size that fits my maxima..

 

Since we're talking about batteries.......

Mine will go dead if I leave my doors open for more then 30 minutes.

Is this normal????

Dealer tells me yes.

 

no its not normal. When I used to detail the Max myself, I'd spend over 4-5 hours doing it with the doors open and my battery was still good. You might have a bad battery.

 

Today I had to replace the battery in my 05 Maxima, for a couple of days while detailing, with the doors open, it just faded & failed to produce current. When I jump it with cables, thinking everything was legit, 4hrs later completely drain after just opening the doors to listen to some tunes while wiping down the front windshield. This occured for several days while trying to complete simple minor touch ups to my ride. I plan on installing a serious audio system in a few months, so I went ahead an purchased the yellow top optima, car is full of juice now. With the yellow top Optima battery, you might have to extend the (+) terminal hook-up cable? It's a tad bit short.

 

Mine has been going strong for about 5 years now with no sign of letting up.

 

This is what's happening with mine.

 

Whats the going rate for an Optima battery?? Looking to changee mine out aswell. does changing the battery cause any memory lose other than the clock??

 

Monkey - Changing the battery also wipes out all radio preselects, and usually requires resetting the power sunroof controls.

 

I tried putting a red top, 34R I think it was, for reversed poles(+ to the rear) and found that the + connector will not reach due to the right angle fuseible link assy. Brand new still sitting in my shed. NE1 live in Vegas, can be had for $50 will call...

 

I replaced my battery a couple weeks ago with a much lighter weight battery. Check my thread on it.

 

Have had a Optima Yellow Top in my Corvette since 2000. Put an automatic float charger on it while not in use. Never a problem. Would buy another Optima if batteries in the other cars fail.

 

What's a Automatic float charger, sounds interesting, was it a do-it-yourself project? Sounds like what audio system capacitor are design for. Memphoman! What's up? I experience the exact same problem yesterday while installing my Yellow top Optima. You mention the (+) was facing the rear or towards the firewall of the vehicle, which sounds correct, because the (-) faces the front of the vehicle. There's a member Chernmax, who just extended the cable, as well as I did, so that it fits without any complication. Check page 3, I think it's under dead battery. Later.......

 

Buy some bulk battery cable ($2) a foot with connectors and make an extentions. Now I have stinger terminals but this method will work using regular terminals as well...

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My OEM battery ('04 SE-auto/44 months/32K miles) left me stranded this past June when the engine wouldn't start after I shut it down IN A LEFT-TURN LANE of a store parking lot. This was one of those lights that takes 2+ minutes to change and I often do that to save fuel. Absolutely NO indication previously that it was on the verge of failing.

Reading this thread, it sounds like I'm not the only one with a somewhat early battery failure.

 

MaxMaybe - Like yours, mine gave absolutely no hint it was dying. Not one warning light ever appeared on the dash. One startup was instant and normal, but thirty minutes later, not only would the car not start; the battery was so dead I couldn't even lower the windows (we were sitting on a hot tarmac, and the temp was 104 degrees).

I really miss the ohmmeter that used to be in cars. If one checked it at regular intervals, it was easy to detect when things were going south with the battery. I really miss the oil pressure gauge, also.

 

5 or 1 whichever comes first.

Once you loose your newbie status you'll see how quicly they go.

 

Just had the car in the dealer and they said that it is a bad battery but Nissan will cover 100% of the labor (big deal) and only 25% of the battery cost.

Guess I'll just get an Optima.

 

What about the actual Stingery battery?

I bought some 80 dollar battery at autozone and its been giving me justice.
What do you guys mean when you say red top, etc.?

I am slow with this stuff... lol

 

I (like Chernmax) am running the redtop, been great!
Oh and GrimMax , "redtop" is a bettery made by Optima.

 

I just bought the Duralast battery at Autozone. I think it is the same one Deus put in his car. It was only $80 and weighs about 15 pounds less than the stock battery. It has had plenty of juice for me so far...

 

cyclops - I also put in an $80 Duralast from Auto Zone just over a week ago. It is warranted for eight years. So far so good, and today was the 15th day this month with temps at our spread reaching 100 degrees or higher. We are south of Atlanta, which, with many 100 degree days, has already broken all records for August heat.

I really had no choice of brands. We were in the middle of a week-long trip, and it died in a small town in the north Georgia mountains with our thermometer reading 102 degrees. We were lucky there was an Auto Zone in the same hemisphere.

 

Yeah, no joke! Glad to hear it is holding up. I live up here in NC, where it has also been hot as he$&. I really just switched because it seemed like it was taking more cranks to start the car every morning. I also had a lot of corrosion on my terminals and was too lazy to clean it off...

 

You need the Optima SC35A with the plastic spacer (included) as the battery is not tall enough. -> http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....products_id=61 I replaced mine due to acid leaching from the posts. The SC35A has reversed posts and the stock positive will fit as the post is located close to the edge.

 

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What is confusing, the Optima has been brought up and this is the proper Optima battery for the Max? I have one in mine just to back up my statement. As far as the acid it is leeching from the post case interface causing corrosion, the Optima battery will not do this nor will most Japanese batteries.

 

My Duralast has lasted a month or so now, including temps well in excess of 100 degrees, a long trip to Northern California and a night autocross. It has my vote of confidence and I like having 20lbs less up front.

 

I bought the red top too. Costco has them for $136. it didn't come with a spacer so I had to build one up out of cork mat.

 

I ended up getting a yellow top. Bit pricey but works good.