Do you need 91 octane for the maxima?
10-19-2007, 04:14 PM
#41
Now that was great for laughs! 
Nice one.
93 only!!!
Light and Chern, as much as I tend to agree with y'all normally, when I first bought my max, I accidentially ran 87 from a no name gas station. I got 17 mpg!!!!
When I ran 93, within a short time, my car was banging off the 28 city mpg without hessitation. I tested my theory and did it again, and sure enough, the car bogged down and got poor mpg. Now I know that there are quite a few that would disagree with me, but that is what I experienced.
Swee
Nice one.93 only!!!
Light and Chern, as much as I tend to agree with y'all normally, when I first bought my max, I accidentially ran 87 from a no name gas station. I got 17 mpg!!!!
When I ran 93, within a short time, my car was banging off the 28 city mpg without hessitation. I tested my theory and did it again, and sure enough, the car bogged down and got poor mpg. Now I know that there are quite a few that would disagree with me, but that is what I experienced.
Swee
10-19-2007, 04:31 PM
#42
I agree with Swee, once or twice the guy at the gas station puts 87 in my tank and my mileage drops off, I drive pretty hard and normally average 20-26 mixed driving and with 87 it pisses me off to blow through the same tank in 1-2 days of driving when 93 gets me across 4 days
10-19-2007, 05:22 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 607
I tend to agree with Swee and Starr even though I do not have as strong evidence as Swee. I have a little more than 2000 miles on my car (100% stock). And these are my statistics from the computer:
When I completed the first 1000 miles (in 28 days),
Mileage = 19.3 mpg
Average speed = 26.9 mph
Gas used = 89 octane (midgrade) mostly BP
About 60% highway miles (65-85mph), 40% city miles (0-50mph)
Mostly used automatic dual temp. control with driver side 75-80 deg and passenger side 78-85 deg.
Drove very conservatively, RPM never crossed 3000.
RPM around 1400-1600 when accelerating from stop (like at a signal).
All statistics reset after 1000 miles.
When I completed the 2nd 1000 miles (in 40 days),
Mileage = 19.7 mpg
Average speed = 24.4 mph
Gas used = 93 octane (premium) BP, Mobil, Seven-Eleven
About 40% highway miles (65-75mph), 60% city miles (0-50mph)
Mostly used automatic dual temp. control with driver side 78-82 deg and passenger side 83-87 deg.
Drove very conservatively, RPM crossed 3000 only once (about 3200).
RPM around 1400-1800 when accelerating from stop (like at a signal).
My mileage increased from 19.3 to 19.7 mpg. The reasons can be:
1. Changing from 89 to 93 octane gas
2. Driving at 65-75 mph in highways instead of 65-85 mph
3. Using the air-conditioner more effectively
Note that the mileage increased even though more miles were driven in the city than on highway. As a result, average speed decreased and it took more days to complete the second 1000 miles.
I will continue to keep the statistics every 1000 miles. However, I will be using only 93 octane.
When I completed the first 1000 miles (in 28 days),
Mileage = 19.3 mpg
Average speed = 26.9 mph
Gas used = 89 octane (midgrade) mostly BP
About 60% highway miles (65-85mph), 40% city miles (0-50mph)
Mostly used automatic dual temp. control with driver side 75-80 deg and passenger side 78-85 deg.
Drove very conservatively, RPM never crossed 3000.
RPM around 1400-1600 when accelerating from stop (like at a signal).
All statistics reset after 1000 miles.
When I completed the 2nd 1000 miles (in 40 days),
Mileage = 19.7 mpg
Average speed = 24.4 mph
Gas used = 93 octane (premium) BP, Mobil, Seven-Eleven
About 40% highway miles (65-75mph), 60% city miles (0-50mph)
Mostly used automatic dual temp. control with driver side 78-82 deg and passenger side 83-87 deg.
Drove very conservatively, RPM crossed 3000 only once (about 3200).
RPM around 1400-1800 when accelerating from stop (like at a signal).
My mileage increased from 19.3 to 19.7 mpg. The reasons can be:
1. Changing from 89 to 93 octane gas
2. Driving at 65-75 mph in highways instead of 65-85 mph
3. Using the air-conditioner more effectively
Note that the mileage increased even though more miles were driven in the city than on highway. As a result, average speed decreased and it took more days to complete the second 1000 miles.
I will continue to keep the statistics every 1000 miles. However, I will be using only 93 octane.
Last edited by bb700092; 10-19-2007 at 05:25 PM.
10-19-2007, 05:51 PM
#45
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 5
Here in CA, I can get only 91, and that's what I've been using
Even with my commute (50miles 1 way), I get only low 23 mpg
However, it's only got < 2000 miles on the car, so hopefully mileage get better in the future
I am easy on the gas as well, and coast when I can
with the max, I know that power is there, just waiting for me, which is good to know. When I need the power, I care less bout the mpg.
Even with my commute (50miles 1 way), I get only low 23 mpg
However, it's only got < 2000 miles on the car, so hopefully mileage get better in the future
I am easy on the gas as well, and coast when I can
with the max, I know that power is there, just waiting for me, which is good to know. When I need the power, I care less bout the mpg.
10-19-2007, 05:59 PM
#46
10-19-2007, 07:49 PM
#48
28 in the CITY?? 
Swee, I get 28 MPG Highway with the cruise set at @ 72 MPH. I get @ 18 MPG in the CITY. With mixed driving conditions, I average @ 23 MPG per tank.
And I mainly use Marathon 93.
TWo great places for info.
http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible_pg2.html
AND....
http://www.marathonpetroleum.com/products/
Frequently Asked Questions
What is meant by the antiknock performance of gasoline?
The antiknock performance of a gasoline is usually expressed as an octane number that measures its ability to resist knock. "Knock" is a sharp metallic noise resulting from uncontrolled combustion. Knock is just loud enough to be heard may be displeasing, but rarely causes engine damage. Intense, sustained knock may damage pistons and other engine parts. If heavy knocking occurs, a higher octane gasoline should be used and/or spark timing should be adjusted to reduce or eliminate the knock.
Use of a higher octane gasoline to prevent knock can also help prevent "after-run" (dieseling) that is usually caused by piston head and combustion chamber deposits from incomplete fuel burning.
What gasoline antiknock performance does my car require?
Use the recommendation in your car’s owner’s manual as a starting point for selecting the proper octane grade of gasoline. If sustained engine knock is encountered and engine adjustments are correct, try higher octane Super-M® [93 (R+M)/2]. If knocking or dieseling persists, have the engine checked for mechanical problems.
I see an (R+M)/2 octane posted on the gas pump. What is it and what does it mean?
Neither the Research Octane Number ("R") nor the Motor Octane Number ("M") of a gasoline adequately relates to the actual anti-knock performance required for a multicylinder automobile engine. The arithmetic average of the Research ("R") and Motor ("M") Octane Numbers, (R+M)/2, is more closely related to actual engine requirements. This is the octane rating that is posted on service station dispensing pumps. This posted octane number measures the resistance of the gasoline to premature detonation in the cylinder, which can be heard as knock. Super-M®’s (R+M)/2 of 93 is more resistant to knock than Marathon’s 87 octane Milemaker® gasoline.
Should I assume that Super-M® is a "cure-all" for any case of severe knock? Are there other concerns?
A tankful of Super-M® is the first thing to try to prevent severe knock. However, other mechanical conditions may exist that require a mechanic’s attention. If you are still having knocking or other performance concerns, a problem with the spark timing, emission controls, or other systems may exist. You may want to have your engine inspected by a qualified mechanic.
I seem to hear sporadic knocking 2 to 3 times a year during certain seasons. Is there a logical explanation? What can I do to alleviate this?
Climate conditions affect the "octane appetite" of a car’s engine. Knocking is more likely to occur during warm, dry weather, particularly when the barometer is high. These weather conditions often occur on beautiful summer and fall days when the temperature is high and the humidity is low. On these days, you can try Super-M® to prevent the temporary knocking condition.
Is octane the only gasoline quality to be concerned about?
No! All grades of Marathon gasoline ensure:
Seasonizing - The proper volatility for good starting and overall driveability.
Engine Cleanliness - Marathon’s additives keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean.
Quality Assurance - Marathon’s handling procedures stress keeping our gasolines free of contamination from water, dirt, or incompatible fuels.
Swee, I get 28 MPG Highway with the cruise set at @ 72 MPH. I get @ 18 MPG in the CITY. With mixed driving conditions, I average @ 23 MPG per tank. And I mainly use Marathon 93.
TWo great places for info.
http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible_pg2.html
AND....
http://www.marathonpetroleum.com/products/
Frequently Asked Questions
What is meant by the antiknock performance of gasoline?
The antiknock performance of a gasoline is usually expressed as an octane number that measures its ability to resist knock. "Knock" is a sharp metallic noise resulting from uncontrolled combustion. Knock is just loud enough to be heard may be displeasing, but rarely causes engine damage. Intense, sustained knock may damage pistons and other engine parts. If heavy knocking occurs, a higher octane gasoline should be used and/or spark timing should be adjusted to reduce or eliminate the knock.
Use of a higher octane gasoline to prevent knock can also help prevent "after-run" (dieseling) that is usually caused by piston head and combustion chamber deposits from incomplete fuel burning.
What gasoline antiknock performance does my car require?
Use the recommendation in your car’s owner’s manual as a starting point for selecting the proper octane grade of gasoline. If sustained engine knock is encountered and engine adjustments are correct, try higher octane Super-M® [93 (R+M)/2]. If knocking or dieseling persists, have the engine checked for mechanical problems.
I see an (R+M)/2 octane posted on the gas pump. What is it and what does it mean?
Neither the Research Octane Number ("R") nor the Motor Octane Number ("M") of a gasoline adequately relates to the actual anti-knock performance required for a multicylinder automobile engine. The arithmetic average of the Research ("R") and Motor ("M") Octane Numbers, (R+M)/2, is more closely related to actual engine requirements. This is the octane rating that is posted on service station dispensing pumps. This posted octane number measures the resistance of the gasoline to premature detonation in the cylinder, which can be heard as knock. Super-M®’s (R+M)/2 of 93 is more resistant to knock than Marathon’s 87 octane Milemaker® gasoline.
Should I assume that Super-M® is a "cure-all" for any case of severe knock? Are there other concerns?
A tankful of Super-M® is the first thing to try to prevent severe knock. However, other mechanical conditions may exist that require a mechanic’s attention. If you are still having knocking or other performance concerns, a problem with the spark timing, emission controls, or other systems may exist. You may want to have your engine inspected by a qualified mechanic.
I seem to hear sporadic knocking 2 to 3 times a year during certain seasons. Is there a logical explanation? What can I do to alleviate this?
Climate conditions affect the "octane appetite" of a car’s engine. Knocking is more likely to occur during warm, dry weather, particularly when the barometer is high. These weather conditions often occur on beautiful summer and fall days when the temperature is high and the humidity is low. On these days, you can try Super-M® to prevent the temporary knocking condition.
Is octane the only gasoline quality to be concerned about?
No! All grades of Marathon gasoline ensure:
Seasonizing - The proper volatility for good starting and overall driveability.
Engine Cleanliness - Marathon’s additives keep fuel injectors and intake valves clean.
Quality Assurance - Marathon’s handling procedures stress keeping our gasolines free of contamination from water, dirt, or incompatible fuels.
Last edited by BadBlackMaxSL; 10-19-2007 at 08:06 PM.
10-20-2007, 12:34 PM
#55
10-20-2007, 01:19 PM
#56
that theory use to make sense with cars that did not have knock sensors, now with modern vehicles especially those that run on premium that can now retard the timing to adjust to 87, putting the lowest octane in is kind of an oxymoron
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