macming

I'm thinking of changing out the rear pads in my 2004 Maxima. From my reserach, it seems like you can't press the piston back in with the C clamp.

Does anyone know the bit I need to turn the piston back in?

Thanks,

Ming

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Ive heard you can rent the kit from autozone or they sell for like $40.


http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/AP-7860.html

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

I pushed it back a while ago when I did my pads

macming

So is it really necessary to turn the rear piston back in? Is it connected to the parking brake?

redls1

iTrader: (2)

From the 2006 fsm. Guess you just push it in. I have 350z rear calipers and my maxima ones are just sitting in the garage. Dont remember when taking them off.

INSTALLATION
1. Apply Molykote M-77 grease or silicone-based grease to the rear of the pad and to both sides of the shim,
and attach the inner shim and shim cover to the inner pad, and the outer shim and outer shim cover to the
outer pad.
2. Attach the pad retainer and pad to the torque member.
CAUTION:
When attaching the pad retainer, attach it firmly so that it
does not float up higher than the torque member, as shown.
3. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach
the cylinder body to the torque member.
NOTE:
Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), makes
it easier to push in the piston.
CAUTION:
By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master
cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the level of the surface of
the reservoir tank.
4. Install the sliding pin and tighten to specification. Refer to BR-29, "Component" .
5. Check brake for drag.
6. Install wheel and tire. Refer

myer84

iTrader: (1)

This is what I been told and I've done before. The safest way to push back the piston is by loosening the nut where you purge your brake fluid from on the caliper and then push the piston with your hand. Pushing the piston in without loosening the nut could damage the seal on the piston.

So, again this is what I been told by a mechanic and it worked for me.

NIKV69

I recently did my brakes all around and used a simple C Clamp to push all the pistons back in the caliper. Few things you have to remember. Take some of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before you do this. Monitor the brake fluid level each caliper you do. Also push in the piston very slowly as you do it. Rear emergency brake has nothing to do with the caliper. Brake shoes under the rotor take care of that and are indpendent of the caliper.

jer28

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a decent idea, but then I would be tempted to bleed the system.....Which is never a bad thing to do.

macming

Thanks for all the info guys. I did the brakes today, and there is nothing to turn in the rear. There is a smaller piston in the rear caliper and all I had to do was push it back in with a C clamp.

I went to bed the pads in, and I noticed something really strange. Most of the time, the car brakes ok. In rare occasions, there is serious pulsation from the rear right of the car. The ground isn't really icy and I wasn't really pushing the brakes hard enough to enage ABS. At the same time, it feels like I'm losing a lot of braking power. Could I damaged an ABS sensor? This problem happened once today before I swapped the pads.

Thanks again,

Ming

QwikKota

iTrader: (3)

If the outside of the piston is clean there shouldn't be any damage from this. The main reason people open the bleeder valve when they compress the piston is to keep the built up dirt and any rust scale from going back up into the ABS accumulator. Most of the times the fluid does not travel far enough to get to the ABS so I do not worry about it. (Mainly a concern for front brakes anyway) And on newer cars there shouldn't be much if any dirt in the lines. I just use a big 4" c-clamp and a break pad to push the pistons back in. You risk air entering the system when cracking the bleeder open but if you put a tube on it and down into a jug of fluid you can get away without having to bleed the brakes, royal pain.