My engine has to be replaced!
03-12-2009, 06:31 AM
#41
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 157
It's all 06 mt 350z/g35's and most 05's that come with the Rev-Up motor, they changed piston ring designs & they are flawed, THAT is what the lawsuit is over. Completely different animal. I rebuilt one of those engines over a year ago w/18k on it & he has since put another 40k with no issues using maxima rings.
on the pre-cat, allblackmax96 just bought a motor off of me for his 5.5 gen, under 3k miles for $750, his rear pre-cat rattles upon decel, his oil consumption is >than 1qt/1k miles, his car is also an absolute dog until it warms up (ultra low compression until pistons expand). It's costing him $750 for the motor, $350 for the new obx headers, $750 + his old motor to put it in, $100 for the clutch from that 350z revup I rebuilt, & another $100 for revup rodbolts & the gaskets to do them, plus about $200 in misc parts.
If you add that all up, it's not TOOO far off from what you got, granted he's more of a friend now, but ignore all the people bashing the shop, 90% of those people couldn't even begin to swap an engine over. Also, keep in mind that 6th gens are more crammed & suck. Those prices are good & considering he is already standing behind the compression test I'd go there. FYI if you're seeing 120 getting the cranking rpm's up really isn't going to help.
on the pre-cat, allblackmax96 just bought a motor off of me for his 5.5 gen, under 3k miles for $750, his rear pre-cat rattles upon decel, his oil consumption is >than 1qt/1k miles, his car is also an absolute dog until it warms up (ultra low compression until pistons expand). It's costing him $750 for the motor, $350 for the new obx headers, $750 + his old motor to put it in, $100 for the clutch from that 350z revup I rebuilt, & another $100 for revup rodbolts & the gaskets to do them, plus about $200 in misc parts. If you add that all up, it's not TOOO far off from what you got, granted he's more of a friend now, but ignore all the people bashing the shop, 90% of those people couldn't even begin to swap an engine over. Also, keep in mind that 6th gens are more crammed & suck. Those prices are good & considering he is already standing behind the compression test I'd go there. FYI if you're seeing 120 getting the cranking rpm's up really isn't going to help.
You mentioned a rattle on decel? How can you tell that difference from an exhuast poping in the resonator?
Im truly concerned about my engine it already has the tensioner issue which im almost positive, and Im pretty sure she is consuming oil. I got a check engine light last week on the OBDII it came up as 1287?? which said manufacturer specific? I was able to delete it with the code, but can't find a clear explanation of what exactly it was.
The car is very strong and pulls extremely hard, so i am somewhat confused.
03-12-2009, 10:41 AM
#42
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Could you explain what you mean by getting the cranking rpm up won't do much if I'm seeing more than 120 psi? I'm hoping the retesting of the compression now that my oil pressure switching has been changed will yeild better results. That switch may have been why I had increased oil consumption which prompted me to get the compression test in the first place. I'm checking it more regularly now.
03-12-2009, 02:32 PM
#43
http://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/1...ur-oil-81.html
here is an 86 page forum that has all this pretty much discussed allready for us. Sounds like the Vq35HR is not a problem. Still a new motor though, give it time. The VQ35DE is the problem and that's what we have. I would do the research myself if I were you to find the answer that meets your satisfaction. I am using thicker oil till I can afford to get the internal replaced. I am not going to mess around either doing cams and all when I do it. At least 3k in parts. You could get by with just doing the pistons and rings.
here is an 86 page forum that has all this pretty much discussed allready for us. Sounds like the Vq35HR is not a problem. Still a new motor though, give it time. The VQ35DE is the problem and that's what we have. I would do the research myself if I were you to find the answer that meets your satisfaction. I am using thicker oil till I can afford to get the internal replaced. I am not going to mess around either doing cams and all when I do it. At least 3k in parts. You could get by with just doing the pistons and rings.
03-13-2009, 12:14 AM
#44
Rich2342, looked up your code in the service manual for a 2006 Altima with VQ35DE engine and came up with nothing for the code you listed. I recommend you check with the maker of the scan tool used to find that code, or have it checked again from Autozone/Checkers. They scan for free and give you a printout of the code pulled. You can find a list of all your codes by going here: www.nissanhelp.com . You have to register and then go to the Knowledgebase>ServiceManual section and download the EC "Electronics Control" portion of the SM. In the find section at the top of the PDF type code and click through to the list. That has all nissan specific codes for your car. Anything that is not on the list is Scanner Specific. Good luck let us know what you come up with.
03-13-2009, 06:54 AM
#45
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: mass
Posts: 157
http://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/1...ur-oil-81.html
here is an 86 page forum that has all this pretty much discussed allready for us. Sounds like the Vq35HR is not a problem. Still a new motor though, give it time. The VQ35DE is the problem and that's what we have. I would do the research myself if I were you to find the answer that meets your satisfaction. I am using thicker oil till I can afford to get the internal replaced. I am not going to mess around either doing cams and all when I do it. At least 3k in parts. You could get by with just doing the pistons and rings.
here is an 86 page forum that has all this pretty much discussed allready for us. Sounds like the Vq35HR is not a problem. Still a new motor though, give it time. The VQ35DE is the problem and that's what we have. I would do the research myself if I were you to find the answer that meets your satisfaction. I am using thicker oil till I can afford to get the internal replaced. I am not going to mess around either doing cams and all when I do it. At least 3k in parts. You could get by with just doing the pistons and rings.
From the sounds Its at least the tensioners on mine. I may not be all that bad on the oil issue. Then again the stick reading sucks!!
Im actually looking for a G but the 07's are a bit higher than im willing to spend right now. I am avoiding the 05-06's like the plague..
03-13-2009, 07:04 AM
#46
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,269
Oil consumption is not a good indicator of overall engine health. I would personall drive it until it puttered to a hault, but that is just me. Do you notice any major mpg difference? If not, just drive it...unless you plan on making it a race machine. In that case you should rebuild anyway.
Another option: Drive it to a dealer to trade it in until someone takes it - transfer the risk
03-25-2009, 07:13 PM
#47
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Update.
I was in Baton Rouge yesterday, and swung by my trusted mechanic, Nick at Mech Tech. This guy and his team do a lot of the motor swaps on nissans and hondas as well as other performance mods that most mechanics would be scratching their heads about. They know their stuff and did a lot of performance stuff on my 4th gen. I was still having some oil dripping on the driveway after the oil pressure switch was replaced 3 weeks ago by a mech close to where I live in New Orleans. It turns out that the oil leak is coming from the inside timing chain cover, according to Nick. This was after the timing chain tensioners and guides were replaced back in September of 08 by a local mechanic in New Orleans. Hopefully, I won't be charged too much for the labor, but Nick said the labor would be 17 hours to repair. He said hopefully the mechanic who did the original work would still fix it under warranty of the repair as it was caused by him not addressing the seal properly. I first noticed oil loss 2 months after the timing chain repair was done and asked the mech if he changed the oil. At that time he said yes. I ended up getting an oil change and began noticing more and more oil loss. I believe my problems with oil consumption stemmed from not correctly replacing seals on the timing chain cover as opposed to the pre-cat issue. Since I'm an intern in internal medicine, I haven't had time to address everything or put it all together sooner due to working crazy hours. When I told Nick about the compression numbers I got at the other place, he laughed and said if the compression were truly that low the car would run like crap which it doesn't at all. So there you have it guys. I finally found the culprit. I called up the mech that originally did the work and he said I should bring it in on Friday.
I was in Baton Rouge yesterday, and swung by my trusted mechanic, Nick at Mech Tech. This guy and his team do a lot of the motor swaps on nissans and hondas as well as other performance mods that most mechanics would be scratching their heads about. They know their stuff and did a lot of performance stuff on my 4th gen. I was still having some oil dripping on the driveway after the oil pressure switch was replaced 3 weeks ago by a mech close to where I live in New Orleans. It turns out that the oil leak is coming from the inside timing chain cover, according to Nick. This was after the timing chain tensioners and guides were replaced back in September of 08 by a local mechanic in New Orleans. Hopefully, I won't be charged too much for the labor, but Nick said the labor would be 17 hours to repair. He said hopefully the mechanic who did the original work would still fix it under warranty of the repair as it was caused by him not addressing the seal properly. I first noticed oil loss 2 months after the timing chain repair was done and asked the mech if he changed the oil. At that time he said yes. I ended up getting an oil change and began noticing more and more oil loss. I believe my problems with oil consumption stemmed from not correctly replacing seals on the timing chain cover as opposed to the pre-cat issue. Since I'm an intern in internal medicine, I haven't had time to address everything or put it all together sooner due to working crazy hours. When I told Nick about the compression numbers I got at the other place, he laughed and said if the compression were truly that low the car would run like crap which it doesn't at all. So there you have it guys. I finally found the culprit. I called up the mech that originally did the work and he said I should bring it in on Friday.
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