Schwagoo

2004 Maxima, 5sp auto. 105K miles.

Started doing the 20-0mph ABS grinding about 3 weeks ago.
I researched on here and figured the rear ABS sensors were dirty.
I took it into the local Nissan expert and he:
cleaned the rear sensors, replaced each rear sensor independently then together, replaced the controller board.... and the ABS problem is still there.

He actually took each part off after he tried it and has not charged me for those. He has a ton of hours in it...he has followed the TSB and other tech docs put out by Nissan and other shops.

He just called and told me he has to give up on it, that he has too much labor in it and he can't afford to keep going. No charge, and I can come pick up the car.

I asked what I should do from here, just go to the dealer? and he said yes that's about all I can do.

I've never heard of a shop just giving UP on a car like this...but at least he did a huge amount of diagnostic work without charging me.

Soooo do you guys have any more ideas of what I should try or do?

Should I just bend over and take it to the dealer?

Thanks,
Brian

BlackMaxSE2004

I was having similar problems with my ABS system. There would be a grinding and pulsating sound at low speed stops. No ABS light came on so went to my local mechanic. He drove it around with the diagnostic computer and found that I needed to replace my right rear wheel bearing and plate. He also cleaned both rear sensors. Sounds and drives great. Hope this helps.

Sarara

Seems like rear hub assembly is also a common problem with 6th generation maxima. Easiest way to find this is spinning your wheel/rotor by hands and observe.

I just removed one caliper holding bolt and installed it back but without the spacer. I just did tight the bolt enough so that bolt was barely making in contact with the rotor (removing spacer will do this) and then turning rotor by hands cought the grinding noise at only one spot. I had one spare rotor that I tried and and it did the same. So I changed my rear hub asembly and loud grinding noise while driving gone forever.

unclebugspayton

i Replaced the two rear Hub Bearing and problem is GONE, it builds alot of rust which cause a false reading.

Schwagoo

the second mechanic I took it to said the hub assemblies looked fine.



the mechanic said that he recommends replacing the controller board ($1600 installed). The first mechanic replaced this with a junk yard part and it didn't fix the issue. We are thinking that junk yard board may have been bad also.

Do you guys think that replacing the hub assemblies will fix the issue?

I just can't bring myself to put 1600 into the car for something that MIGHT not fix the issue.

Also, once I took the car to the second mechanic, the ABS and BRAKE warning lights were on.

Any ideas? What do you guys recommend? I'm considering trading in the damn car at a loss and buying a Jeep.

Jammmaxx

Go to this site, nissanhelp.com, there is a service bulletin there that was issued by nissan to resolve this issue on the 04-07 maximas. I brought mine in on wednesday to the dealership for the same issue and was quoted 977.00 to fix the problem. I asked a technician there to hook me up on a copy of the miracle fix instructions and got it. Check out the site, the service bulletin is on page 3 at the bottom. That will shed some light on the problem and provide you with the fix.

Shoey1

the guy you took it did exactly what Nissan says to do in this case. the only thing he didn't try was a new ABS Modulator (the box that makes your brakes go on and off in a panic stop) i made a thread about it somewhere walled ABS Diagnosis Thread and gave detailed info on the diagnostic procedure. compare what he has done to what i posted.

davewjones

I have an '05 Max, 78k, 6 speed, been running great until my ABS flipped out too, and started activating under normal braking. I thought my brakes were failing and I pulled the front wheels off and looked at the pads. They were fine. I have 4 lights on: slip, brake, ABS, and I think the 4th light says "TLC Off"(??).

I took the right rear wheel off so I could see how easy the TSB would be to complete (search ABS or NTB07-016b on the nissanhelp.com site). Looked like it could be a job that would require more time than I had. Also, looked like a job where I may need to get under the car (not sure on that) and I'm too chicken to do that.

Anyway, I dropped it off at the dealer last night with a copy of the TSB and told them it probably wasn't the actuator($2000 fix). I don't know this, but wanted to make sure they knew I knew what I'm talking about so they don't just add this to the bill for more money.

I'll keep you posted on my issue.

lebanondon61

I've been having issues with my abs for like a yr now. I took my 04 in and they changed the 2 rear sensors and 2 rear hubs in which they made me pay for cause it wasn't covered under warranty because of rust. Now at times my abs and brake light are on but usually when i drive a little and cut the car off and back on it goes off. The stealership said i'ts seem to be a short somewhere and i'm not trying to pay 100 buck ooo a hour because they seem to be guessing what may be the problem. I thinking of calling the corporate office but don't know if that will help the situation. I'm just very frustrated about this.

davewjones

Update.....

Stealership just called and said the codes they read were c1110 and c1124. This means I'm bending over and taking one for the team. This is the actuator and the total is going to be $1865 for the controller and left rear ABS Sensor.

Yes, driver's side ABS sensor. He said most are on the right, but mine is rare and on the driver's side. He said the failure from the sensor could've taken out the actuator. He's also cleaning out the driver's side hub and cleaning the right side hub out for free.

I have a manual transmission, and the ABS actuator is hard to find. They have to keep the car. At least they are giving me a loaner car for free.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++++++++++

Evening update after picking up the loaner car.....Talked to the service manage and told him that he must see a lot of these. He said he's sees them every once in awhile, but that places without a lot of snow (I live in snowy NE Ohio) will never see this ABS issue due to lack of road salt.

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

Ouchhhh...

04BlackMaxx

Take it to a nissan dealer. I know its expensive but i honestly dont regret the $90 diagnosis (which you will probably need again as they probably wont take another shop's word) + $375 labor to clean the hubs. Problem solved and has yet to happen since the fix a few weeks ago. DO it before the actuator is blown.

(Actuator previously replaced at about 40k, cost absorbed by dealership)

This problem is an unfortunate sore spot for an otherwise reliable car.

davewjones

Got my car back today after getting actuator replaced. $2022 after tax. Cashier said she had worked the repair shop for 10 years and this was the second highest total she's ever seen. Nice.

Makes me want to rethink extended warranties now.

rehmankhan19

well I had a same problem . I went to a local autoshop. HE just cut off the wires of ABS pump. My problem was solved. lol

rick sambora

I hope that doesnt come back and bite you. Seeing that you are in chicago, you are better off fixing it. You will now be rolling without ABS. What part of Chicago? I am live in Schaumburg.
Rick

sweetlou

Hey all,
I had replaced my pads and tires when this ABS crap started happening. My mechanic cleaned the abs sensor and he's been driving it around for a while and problem is gone.

Hope it helps some one.

04BlackMaxx

Take it to the DEALER, they wont give up, same issue on mine fixed.

BlackMaxSE2004

Had same issues on my 2004 se. Local Shop had to replace both abs sensors and wheel bearing plate. They also had to per a TSB grind the drain hole in the rear assembly. Mechanic said this is because the wheels get so dirty with grease and rust this will help revent future buildup of dirt. Said this should prevent future failures. Also said that the old ABS sensors have been replaced with newer models because of failures which Nissan is aware of. atsddrill

GirlTechie73

Actuator wont go off. is that a sensor? or the actuator itself? Havent cleaned the rear sensors yet.

dkkblackmax

I also had the same problem, grinding and pulsating sounds at low speed. Then that quit, but when I shut off the engine I would here a humming sound comeing from the abs pump, so much that it would comp[letely drain the battery overnight. Took it to the dealer he reaf codes c1111 and c1106. He says the abs pump motor was shorting out. He quoted $ 1700.00 fix, new abs pump motor. He said ther were a few codes sored for the sensors.
My question is if I install a new or used abs pump, used $ 275.00 and I could install myself, and if there is something wrong with the sensors would it ruin the new pump?
Any help would be appriciated. I live in Wisconsin, lots of salt, and the car has 150,000 miles on it.

Thanks

05maximaer

Hey guys,

I've been driving 2005 Nissan Maxima SL for a year, and now got into ABS problem. I started hearing freaking noises when I applied the brake. There's also another sound when I speed up or speed down. I got no idea and I brought it to Canadian Tire nearby. The mechanic told me like it's ABS and he's gonna fix it. In the afternoon, they called me it's done and I picked that up. On the way back home, as I sped up to 50 km then the noise came back up. I didn't know how he fixed though. The problem didn't go away. It's so hard to use break now. So I now have to bring that back to them this morning. This sucks! I should have known Maxima had this issue, I would have not bought it. Too late to know it.
ABS problem happened after I changed new battery as the old one died and needed to recharge by another car's battery. I am not sure if it's related.
Any idea and suggestions, guys? I appreciate it.
Thanks.

ubersl

I have the same ABS problem so yesterday finally made it to a dealership. They got C1126 code which means actuator needs to be replaced. But before that they will need to replace rear sensors or at least do the TSB for the rear hubs.
The cost to replace a single rear sensor is about $420. The actuator is $1500+.
I was told ABS light will not fail my state inspection. So I'll opt to drive without ABS and just keep my distance and be more careful driver.

luznyjohn

i have a similar issue with abs, but the abs pump does not run all the time, when i start the car everything seems normal, no warning lights, when i start driving the abs goes through self check and both abs and brake lights light up and stay on until i shut it off, happens once per cycle, abs disengages the moment light pops up, not sure if this is sensor related but seemed to happened right after a major snow storm,

Mr Anderson

Same problem here,I just use regular bkakes,did not even think about fixing the ABS too expensive around 1600:00 dollars,the only problem is the lights are always lit on the dash.ABS .,Hand Brake,Vlc or Vcl,but no Abs is working..
Now if someone know to get rid of these anoying lights let me" Know"

KFedders

I have the same problem. Was this resolved for you? My Nissan said I needed new ABS Acuator.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Not sure if you're still on these forums, but posting a follow up for any other 6th gen owners who may have this type of problem.

My ABS issues all started after a major snowstorm as well. initially, the ABS would engage only at low speed braking. Later on, my problem became exactly like yours: When the car is first started, no ABS/TCS/SLIP lights. After driving for a few blocks, the abs actuator would hum for a few seconds, and the abs would be disabled - all lights would come on until the car was restarted. I also noticed that if I made a turn before this happened, the TCS would sometimes engage and the slip light would flash.

Today, I changed the L and R rear wheel hubs/bearings. Job went a lot smoother than I had imagined. When I took out the hubs, the amount of rust and debris btwn the hub and plastic dust cap was incredible! I cleaned off my ABS sensors w/ some electric parts cleaner, cleaned away the corrosion that was in there, and installed the new hubs.

All ABS issues are gone, and it works as it should. My ABS/TCS/SLIP lights stay off, and it no longer does the hum routine after a few blocks of driving.

If anyone is curious, I purchased "Timken" hubs/bearings. Perfect fitment, solid, well built parts. Got the pair for about $180 shipped on ebay - not bad seeing that autozone wanted $160 each for the same part. Good stuff.

RUDENESS

Are you serious???

RUDENESS

Damn, I just picked up a 04 SL today and now I. Read all of this ( smfh ) the car came with the brake n ABS light on.....do I really need abs???

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Sorry to hear that man. Hope your problem is just the hubs like mine was and not the abs actuator. Some people don't like ABS but to be honest I am glad I finally fixed mine.

SOUTHERNMAX1

Here is a trick. I don't like the ABS in this car anyway. I just started having the ABS<40mph issues. Cut the middle 30A fuse(only) in the covered block next to the battery. A new one is only like 15 dollars. Do not touch any other ABS fuses. This disables ONLY the ABS, nothing else. Brakes work perfect, better in my opinion. This will keep the system off so it will not burn it out and just enables regular braking. Clean the rear/and or front if needed hubs/sensors...replace fuse block. Or don't. I just popped out my dash pod and clipped the ABS led light with a needle nose pliars....no dash lights, no codes, no ABS. Problem solved...free. Light is just so you don't have to look at it. Car has never felt better. CHEERS!!

po8pimp

Wow this is the dumbest advice I have ever read. If you ever get into an accident, hope they don't check your car. They can use a consult tool to scan and find problems within your ABS and you will automatically be at fault. Hope you don't end up killing someone. Might be Manslaughter vice involuntary Manslaughter. Might want to rethink this. I know it is an extreme response, however could happen to you or anyone who does this.

SOUTHERNMAX1

You are an idiot. No car is required to have ABS. Check your facts before you speak. You won't look stupid. You are obviously a car novice. Those of us racing cars for many years know the facts. If your comment were accurate, you could not change/alter anything on a car. Just trying to help out those in need...do to a dealer and get ready to bend over. This car actually handles better without the ABS....If you can't drive, then I don't recommend it.....maybe this is you....

po8pimp

this is great.... You recommend someone to remove a designed safety feature from their car then call me an idiot. You can remove whatever you want on your car I agree. If you wanted to roll around on a frame you could. If you wanted to just run down the street with a steering wheel in hand you could. Is it the right thing to do? is it safe? is it good to recommend to someone else to do? I personally would answer NO to all those. As for "racing cars for many years". That does not make you an expert at all. If they are using this car for anything other than tracking, I am pretty sure they want to do it safely. As for being a car expert, you would know that ABS is not engaged all the time. As a matter of fact it is hardly used in normal driving. So yes I would agree it handles just fine without it. I don't think I would want to see how it handles when the ABS is being used. Here I took all the guess work out for you http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...lock-brake.htm.

Back to what I originally said, it is a gamble.

04maxFTL

Ah yeah! Been having the ABS problem like everyone else and dang abs pump wouldn't shut off when the car was off. I cut the middle 30A fuse and problem solved. I'm with you, no ABS for me. This is the worst car I've ever owned, and can't believe Nissan would construct such a lemon! If I were to fix the abs (and probably replace some wheels sensors) and fix my tranny I would have a good down payment for something new. As it is, I'm stuck with this pos, so I'll have to keep my fingers crossed something major doesn't happen while I drive around with no abs and babying the tranny so it doesn't slam through 1st and 2nd.

Kryogen

Before spending 2000$ on the abs system, I would seriously consider removing both rear hubs, taking em apart, cleaning all corrosion, change if the bearings are bad, and then clean the sensors, and try.
If it's still bad, go to nissan. If it works, you saved 2000$ and it took you a weekend to do it.

04BlackMaxx

Im sure since ive traded it in someone poor schmuck who knows nothing about the issue is dealing with round two of the abs problems after putting more miles on it, sucks when you know its the design and it will just reoccur.

Black_on_black_baby

So I've had the exact same problem...
2006 maxima
Two months ago, ABS started activating under normal braking with NO lights on, got the following work done, in sequence:
1. TSB on cleaning the hubs and grinding a notch-didnt fix the issue.
2. Changed rear hubs and sensors, both sides, got brand new nissan parts installed - didn't fix the issue.
3. Changed the ABS module ($800 part from Toronto, came off from a "working" car, friend of mine was parting his out and I drove it the day before he took the unit off) - didn't fix the issue, made it worse, now all three lights -ABS, VDC, Slip, are on but ABS wouldn't work. I've confirmed the Z - ID matches on both parts and they have the same part numbers.
Took it to an electrician who took the whole dash apart, checked the wiring, everything is fine but the codes are showing pump failur, abs sensor, abs module, and all those parts are completely fine
Took it to the dealership, they want $1100 labor and $1700 just to change the module then abs sensors then the hub and if the problem is still there, $110 an hour for electrician to diagnose the electrical problems because they say any used abs module will not work, which doesn't make sense to me, so they wanna put in a new one
So now I am about $1700-$1800 into the repairs and the problem is still there - no ABS... can someone maybe suggest something ?
Any help is greatly appreciated

SleekSleeper

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in Staten Island or Brooklyn
Who can fix the abs module on a 04 maxima.
Thanks in advance

Delirious

I know it's an old thread but I want to post my experience with this same issue as it may help others as these cars are getting older.
I started getting the ABS pulsation during normal braking a few days ago and no CEL or ABS lights on the dash. At 1st I dismissed it as normal operation on a wet road, but it got progressively worse and during every stop. The ABS would activate at approx. 30 km/hr when coming to a stop and pump kept running when stationary and sometimes during acceleration back above 30 km/hr.
I researched it by reading numerous posts here and on NissanHelp on the subject and decided to act quickly to prevent the ABS actuator from burning out. I cleaned both rear wheel hub bearing covers by disassembling the brakes and then removing the hubs which gives access to the ABS sensor without removing the sensor and risk breaking the screw securing it.
In Conclusion: It seams that it was a thin film of grease build up and road salt on the RH wheel bearing that caused my issue. Google Nissan NTB07-016b to see how the dealers do it.

Superduck

I'll post my experience as well, too help those who need it. Had the ABS issue...no lights the first several times it did it. Read the bulletin, decided to replace both rear hubs (right side had couple tbsp of rust buildup in the plastic hub), and replaced the rear rotors (they were rusted to hell). Cleaned the inside of the knuckle with a rotary tool and a small wire wheel. Cut the inside plastic hub in a V. Cleaned the sensor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. My issue persisted because I snapped the sensor bolt when trying to remove it. Same issue, different code thrown. After that was fixed shes all good. From what I understand, if you have this issue, the best thing you can do is stop driving your car til it's fixed. IF the actuator goes out its $$$ unless you pull it from a junk yard.