Starting Problems when car sits for a few hours...
#1
Starting Problems when car sits for a few hours...
All,
I have 05 Maxima and recently I've been having starting issues.
The issue is:
When the car sits for a few hours (3+ or overnight) and I go to start the car, the engine doesn't fire when I turn the key the first time. I turn the key a second time and it does start.
The engine is turning on the first key turn but doesn't start. On the second turn, it sputters for 1 sec and the engine fires.
Now, if the car has been sitting for less than ~3hrs, it does start on the first key turn with no issues.
What is everyones thoughts on this issue? And how can I get this resolved?
I can eliminate the starter since the engine is turning on the first and second key turn. Battery has been changed but issue still persists.
Some info on my car's maintenance:
-74,000 miles
-No check engine light
-brand new battery installed last month (Walmart Everstart Max 850CCA) after the issue started (though it was a battery issue)
-5w30 Valvoline Synthetic (changed every 6,500mi)
-all fluids have been changed in the last year (trans, steering, brake)
-belts have been changed
Thanks for your help!
I have 05 Maxima and recently I've been having starting issues.
The issue is:
When the car sits for a few hours (3+ or overnight) and I go to start the car, the engine doesn't fire when I turn the key the first time. I turn the key a second time and it does start.
The engine is turning on the first key turn but doesn't start. On the second turn, it sputters for 1 sec and the engine fires.
Now, if the car has been sitting for less than ~3hrs, it does start on the first key turn with no issues.
What is everyones thoughts on this issue? And how can I get this resolved?
I can eliminate the starter since the engine is turning on the first and second key turn. Battery has been changed but issue still persists.
Some info on my car's maintenance:
-74,000 miles
-No check engine light
-brand new battery installed last month (Walmart Everstart Max 850CCA) after the issue started (though it was a battery issue)
-5w30 Valvoline Synthetic (changed every 6,500mi)
-all fluids have been changed in the last year (trans, steering, brake)
-belts have been changed
Thanks for your help!
#2
Fuel starvation sounds like your issue or maybe even spark. To find out if it is the fuel, leave it sit and when you go to start it pump the gas 2-3 times before and throttle while you turn the key. If it fires up the first shot then it's a fuel issue. If it doesn't then you might be due for a spark plug cleaning. I also don't recommend waiting 6500 miles to change your oil. I change mine every 3k miles and oil is completely black with a very strong smell of gas. Too much gas in the oil means the oil is breaking down fast and not being allowed to lubricate the engine.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I'll try it out this afternoon when I got off work. If the throttle steps don't produce a result, I'll pull the first three spark plugs out this weekend. I thought our plugs last up to 120,000 miles?
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
#4
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=1&page=1
as for the starting, if you hear it clicking then it is battery related. can you get your alternator tested and check for codes for free at a parts store near by? thought plugs were 100k, maybe 120k but recommended not to wait until you actually reach that length. the rear 3 are a PITA...
#6
[QUOTE=NismoMax80;7076249]the manual even says 3750 for severe. NO reason to change any oil 3k. just bc your oil smells different, if it does, maybe you have an issue? have your oil analyzed if you suspect that, don't just change it early oil being black means nothing. if anything it is cleaning well, has nothing to do with it's ability to lubricate/protect.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=1&page=1
i agree with most of what you are saying. i have not had my oil tested that's why i play it safe and do oil changes 700 miles less than recommended. not to mention i drive hard. as far as doing anything maintenance wise according to nissan's recommendations, i don't. transmission fluid change is a prime example....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=1&page=1
i agree with most of what you are saying. i have not had my oil tested that's why i play it safe and do oil changes 700 miles less than recommended. not to mention i drive hard. as far as doing anything maintenance wise according to nissan's recommendations, i don't. transmission fluid change is a prime example....
#7
as for the starting, if you hear it clicking then it is battery related. can you get your alternator tested and check for codes for free at a parts store near by? thought plugs were 100k, maybe 120k but recommended not to wait until you actually reach that length. the rear 3 are a PITA...
No clicking, the engine is definitely turning on both key turns.
#8
Tried the past few days (morning before heading off to work & after work) pumping the gas 2-3 times before starting the car. Didn't work - I still had to crank the engine twice before the car started.
Key was in the ON position (guages/radio on) while pumping gas pedal.
hmmm....
Key was in the ON position (guages/radio on) while pumping gas pedal.
hmmm....
#9
I had that problem when the car was just few months old. It was the fuel pump. From what I got, it was leaking gas when it was off, so needed some time to fill up or something when I start the car, hence hard start.
#10
All,
I have 05 Maxima and recently I've been having starting issues.
The issue is:
When the car sits for a few hours (3+ or overnight) and I go to start the car, the engine doesn't fire when I turn the key the first time. I turn the key a second time and it does start.
The engine is turning on the first key turn but doesn't start. On the second turn, it sputters for 1 sec and the engine fires.
Now, if the car has been sitting for less than ~3hrs, it does start on the first key turn with no issues.
What is everyones thoughts on this issue? And how can I get this resolved?
I can eliminate the starter since the engine is turning on the first and second key turn. Battery has been changed but issue still persists.
Some info on my car's maintenance:
-74,000 miles
-No check engine light
-brand new battery installed last month (Walmart Everstart Max 850CCA) after the issue started (though it was a battery issue)
-5w30 Valvoline Synthetic (changed every 6,500mi)
-all fluids have been changed in the last year (trans, steering, brake)
-belts have been changed
Thanks for your help!
I have 05 Maxima and recently I've been having starting issues.
The issue is:
When the car sits for a few hours (3+ or overnight) and I go to start the car, the engine doesn't fire when I turn the key the first time. I turn the key a second time and it does start.
The engine is turning on the first key turn but doesn't start. On the second turn, it sputters for 1 sec and the engine fires.
Now, if the car has been sitting for less than ~3hrs, it does start on the first key turn with no issues.
What is everyones thoughts on this issue? And how can I get this resolved?
I can eliminate the starter since the engine is turning on the first and second key turn. Battery has been changed but issue still persists.
Some info on my car's maintenance:
-74,000 miles
-No check engine light
-brand new battery installed last month (Walmart Everstart Max 850CCA) after the issue started (though it was a battery issue)
-5w30 Valvoline Synthetic (changed every 6,500mi)
-all fluids have been changed in the last year (trans, steering, brake)
-belts have been changed
Thanks for your help!
#11
I have heard of this happening to a few Altimas, except instead of fuel starvation, it was the injectors were recieving a large amount of fuel from startup, but never got to burn it due to the short run time, and then when the owner went to start the car, the engine would be flooded..
I've got the same problem start about 3-4 weeks ago... Coincidentally, I had the fuel injectors cleaned at the stealership about 6 weeks ago.....
#12
#14
#15
Well, the dealer kept my car overnight. They hooked it up to the computer (consult II?) and didn't find any issues. Tech said it could be the crank sensor going bad. I'll find out more this afternoon.
Last edited by shadowfox777; 06-23-2009 at 09:37 AM.
#16
So I just got off the phone with the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Since the car wasn't throwing any codes they didn't replace anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
#17
So I just got off the phone with the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Since the car wasn't throwing any codes they didn't replace anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
Anyhoo, thanks for the effort :>)
#18
wouldnt be a bad idea to seafoam either. Someone said to press the gas pedal, however the fuel injection is electronic and you could press the gas pedal 100 times and nothing would happen with the car off.
#19
So I just got off the phone with the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Since the car wasn't throwing any codes they didn't replace anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
Dealer did tell me it will be no charge since they couldn't find a problem. (Positive!)
They did say its possible one of the camshaft position sensors could be going bad but they won't know till the car the car throws out a code/check engine light on.
Hmmmm....either I just live cranking the engine twice when its cold or maybe replace the camshaft position sensors? (cost money ~$160 and may not fix the problem)
I'll probably just live with it since I need new tires. Already paid for my AAA membership for the year incase of anything.
http://www.nycnissans.com/showthread.php?t=519&page=2
#20
You can step on the gas pedal all day long and that will do nothing as the car is fly by wire and there is no accelerator pump nor carburetor, it sounds like your fuel system is leaking down, have the dealer perform a leak down test. This involves installing a fuel pressure gauge in line with the fuel rail, several things could cause a loss of pressure in the circuit: leaking injector, pressure regulator of the check valve in the fuel pump. Try turning on the key just short of actually cranking the engine and wait four to five seconds then turn it off and do it again, then crank it and see if it starts. This will re-pressurize the fuel rails and will negate a slow leak down in your fuel system, when you first turn on the key the pump will run for several seconds until the ECM does not receive an oil pressure signal and will shut down (safety feature) if you system had a slow leak down it would not have enough residual after the short fuel pump run time for the injectors to operate properly, you cycling the key will run the pump and build up pressure.
#22
You can step on the gas pedal all day long and that will do nothing as the car is fly by wire and there is no accelerator pump nor carburetor, it sounds like your fuel system is leaking down, have the dealer perform a leak down test. This involves installing a fuel pressure gauge in line with the fuel rail, several things could cause a loss of pressure in the circuit: leaking injector, pressure regulator of the check valve in the fuel pump. Try turning on the key just short of actually cranking the engine and wait four to five seconds then turn it off and do it again, then crank it and see if it starts. This will re-pressurize the fuel rails and will negate a slow leak down in your fuel system, when you first turn on the key the pump will run for several seconds until the ECM does not receive an oil pressure signal and will shut down (safety feature) if you system had a slow leak down it would not have enough residual after the short fuel pump run time for the injectors to operate properly, you cycling the key will run the pump and build up pressure.
#24
you may want to check the camshaft pos sensor "Bank A" as mine was doing something similar. i had code P0345 i believe it was and my car would just lose power while driving real slow or while taking off from lights.
Only after a couple of restarts it would engage but I would lose acceleration, and vdc, cel would stay on. Anyway replaced the sensor last year and havent had problems since.
Only after a couple of restarts it would engage but I would lose acceleration, and vdc, cel would stay on. Anyway replaced the sensor last year and havent had problems since.
#25
i have the same problem. check out ur Fuel Pressure regulator. a friend of mine's uncle is a master tech at a nissan dealer around here and i asked him and he said it is a fuel issue. he told me to check the voltage on a few parts but its most likely gonna be the regulator. there like 70 bucks at autozone/ advance auto
#26
"pumping" the gas pedal wont do anything- lol
the car is fuel injected and, if im not mistaken- throttle by wire too, so the throttle body wont even open
i had an intermittent hard/no start problem. when that happened, and it eventually started, it ran like SHlT... NO power, shift pattern out of whack, exhaust reeked of raw fuel.... i also got a CEL twice
i narrowed it down to a faulty mass air flow sensor. what i did was- the next time i had the problem, i popped the hood and disconnected the MAF sensor. i knew it would throw a CEL, but if the car started, that was the problem. i resolved the problem by replacing the MAF sensor, which i bought on ebay for ~$35 and clearing the code at my buddys shop.
the car is fuel injected and, if im not mistaken- throttle by wire too, so the throttle body wont even open
i had an intermittent hard/no start problem. when that happened, and it eventually started, it ran like SHlT... NO power, shift pattern out of whack, exhaust reeked of raw fuel.... i also got a CEL twice
i narrowed it down to a faulty mass air flow sensor. what i did was- the next time i had the problem, i popped the hood and disconnected the MAF sensor. i knew it would throw a CEL, but if the car started, that was the problem. i resolved the problem by replacing the MAF sensor, which i bought on ebay for ~$35 and clearing the code at my buddys shop.
#27
Here's what I found when combing through the TSB's: http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view...d=1373390&da=y
Someone did recommend checking the fuel pressure a while back. I'll be getting mine checked shortly.
Someone did recommend checking the fuel pressure a while back. I'll be getting mine checked shortly.
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