View Poll Results: What is your experience with the 5AT?
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RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
@mysterybike thats awesome to hear! Gives me hope. When do I replace my valve body? I am only noticing slightly unsmooth shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 depending on the weather temp. No Bangs or reverse to drive issues yet. I am at 93K and just changed my tranny fluid about 2k ago.
my vin is 1N4BA41EX5C851192
my vin is 1N4BA41EX5C851192
@mysterybike thats awesome to hear! Gives me hope. When do I replace my valve body? I am only noticing slightly unsmooth shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 depending on the weather temp. No Bangs or reverse to drive issues yet. I am at 93K and just changed my tranny fluid about 2k ago.
my vin is 1N4BA41EX5C851192
my vin is 1N4BA41EX5C851192
Hello gentleman,
I'm new in the forum, I've been reading your articles very interesting for weeks. I need your help, I live in Florida where the temperature is consistently above 90 degrees, I have a nissan maxima 04 which began to give me a hard shift when is hot, always when I am reducing the speed from 3 to 2, about 20 miles.
I made a by-pass eliminating the heater core and the ATF valve on the flow and installing a B&M Cooler in front the condenser, my flow now is from the Engine to B&M cooler and out to tranny cooler and finally returning to engine. I not checked the tranny cooler because I don't know if I have to drain the oil before or what to do.
Can you advise me what should I do?, Please Help!!!!!
You may contact me at 561 881 7271, I really appreciate
Thank you very much in advance!!
I'm new in the forum, I've been reading your articles very interesting for weeks. I need your help, I live in Florida where the temperature is consistently above 90 degrees, I have a nissan maxima 04 which began to give me a hard shift when is hot, always when I am reducing the speed from 3 to 2, about 20 miles.
I made a by-pass eliminating the heater core and the ATF valve on the flow and installing a B&M Cooler in front the condenser, my flow now is from the Engine to B&M cooler and out to tranny cooler and finally returning to engine. I not checked the tranny cooler because I don't know if I have to drain the oil before or what to do.
Can you advise me what should I do?, Please Help!!!!!
You may contact me at 561 881 7271, I really appreciate
Thank you very much in advance!!
Thanks @scrui and @costee - I will def look into a new valve body as my new purchase. Any tips on where to buy from? I have a clay nissan down the street that has always been extremely overpriced but was hoping i could price match a scanned receipt or something from someone here that has had better luck. Or I will order online.. I really just want to make sure I get the latest revision for my car. I'm confused which one I need.
My Vin again is 1N4BA41EX5C851192 2005 5 sp AT
My Vin again is 1N4BA41EX5C851192 2005 5 sp AT
Thanks @scrui and @costee - I will def look into a new valve body as my new purchase. Any tips on where to buy from? I have a clay nissan down the street that has always been extremely overpriced but was hoping i could price match a scanned receipt or something from someone here that has had better luck. Or I will order online.. I really just want to make sure I get the latest revision for my car. I'm confused which one I need.
My Vin again is 1N4BA41EX5C851192 2005 5 sp AT
My Vin again is 1N4BA41EX5C851192 2005 5 sp AT
Call them instead to make sure you are getting the correct version. you will need your vin #.
i was going with them, but my local dealer matched the price.
Go see them and tell them you want to pay $844, because Courtesy Nissan on the web is selling them at that price. you should be able to get it for that price. If not try other dealers. last resort go to http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[31705]+\(a34&cPath=2668_2669_2732_2743
Call them instead to make sure you are getting the correct version. you will need your vin #.
i was going with them, but my local dealer matched the price.
Call them instead to make sure you are getting the correct version. you will need your vin #.
i was going with them, but my local dealer matched the price.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/
Check under Power train, and under that, Control Valve (ATM). Insert your VIN. I've checked your VIN and it says you'll need the version 8Y00A which replaces 8Y001. The car production date is Aug 2005 to June 2006. Does that match the one on your car?
The VB at nissanpartszone is more pricey than courtesyparts. So call them at courtesyparts and see if the version they have for your car matches that indicated by nissanpartszone.
Last edited by Costee; May 2, 2012 at 08:34 AM.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
I'm sorry made a little mistake. The production dates are between Aug 2004 and Aug 2005. From what is recorded for your VIN your car was produced Feb 2005. The VB version you need remains 8Y00A.
Sorry for the slight mix up. You could of course check yourself.
Sorry for the slight mix up. You could of course check yourself.
Have been watching this forum for a while and procrastinating getting something done. Going to have to do it very soon. Been just driving my 05 back and forth to work( 1 mile each way).
I am leaning towards Level 10 because I don't have the time (or skill) to replace the VB myself and would expect a pretty high labor charge on top of the $845 for the VB. Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay in labor?
I am leaning towards Level 10 because I don't have the time (or skill) to replace the VB myself and would expect a pretty high labor charge on top of the $845 for the VB. Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay in labor?
Have been watching this forum for a while and procrastinating getting something done. Going to have to do it very soon. Been just driving my 05 back and forth to work( 1 mile each way).
I am leaning towards Level 10 because I don't have the time (or skill) to replace the VB myself and would expect a pretty high labor charge on top of the $845 for the VB. Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay in labor?
I am leaning towards Level 10 because I don't have the time (or skill) to replace the VB myself and would expect a pretty high labor charge on top of the $845 for the VB. Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay in labor?
If you go with OEM , you're looking between $200 - $450 for labor.
THanks Costee and Scrui wanted to make sure I was correct in checking at nissanpartszone.com there. I thought we all needed 8Y00B but apparently it's not a one size fits all for these 5 sp tranny's.. I wonder whats different about mine?
Either way I'll stop by a stealership these coming weeks and see if this is in the budget.. I can probably go a bit longer.. the shifts really arent hard at all I am just being nervous. They were only bad with the old old fluid.. drained about 2K ago and refilled and it's been significantly better.. I got another 6 quarts left so i cna probably get two more changes in hopefully. One planning to do it with the new valve body. My friend is going to do the install in his shop for me (good knowing people that can help you out)
Again, thanks to everyone that contributed helpful information and guides to this thread every bit helps!
Feel free to grab some music for your whip at my site.. all free downloads in my sig.
Today I went to the local Nissan dealer inquiring about a new valve body, gave them my vin# and they quoted me $1201.55 Taking SCRUI advice I told them that I could purchase it at courtesy nissan for 844. The nice lady behind the computer starts typing away and low and behold she can give it to me for the dealer price of 897. I tell her that is a lot better and I will go ahead and take it. She retrieves another part I had come into purchase and then prints out the paperwork and she proceeds to tell me that she was able to knock off a little more, getting the price down to 845 before taxes. I get to pick it up saturday morning, drop it off with my tranny guy after that and have my car some time next week good as new.
By the way, the part number I got was 31705-8YOOB
By the way, the part number I got was 31705-8YOOB
Today I went to the local Nissan dealer inquiring about a new valve body, gave them my vin# and they quoted me $1201.55 Taking SCRUI advice I told them that I could purchase it at courtesy nissan for 844. The nice lady behind the computer starts typing away and low and behold she can give it to me for the dealer price of 897. I tell her that is a lot better and I will go ahead and take it. She retrieves another part I had come into purchase and then prints out the paperwork and she proceeds to tell me that she was able to knock off a little more, getting the price down to 845 before taxes. I get to pick it up saturday morning, drop it off with my tranny guy after that and have my car some time next week good as new.
By the way, the part number I got was 31705-8YOOB
By the way, the part number I got was 31705-8YOOB
Here’s what nissanpartszone has:
31705-8Y00A: 2004.08-2005.08 *5AT
31705-8Y00A: 2005.08-2006.06 5AT
31705-8Y00B: 2004.01-2005.08 5AT
In other words:
Jan 2004—Aug 2004 (8Y00B)
Aug 2004—Aug 2005 (8Y00B or 8Y00A, VIN would indicate precise part required)
Aug 2005—June 2006 (8Y00A)
31705-8Y00A: 2004.08-2005.08 *5AT
31705-8Y00A: 2005.08-2006.06 5AT
31705-8Y00B: 2004.01-2005.08 5AT
In other words:
Jan 2004—Aug 2004 (8Y00B)
Aug 2004—Aug 2005 (8Y00B or 8Y00A, VIN would indicate precise part required)
Aug 2005—June 2006 (8Y00A)
help please
hello
i'm sure i'm not posting correctly but i need help with my maxima.
i have 2006 maxima with 46k and today encountered a problem and don't know what's wrong. about 5 minutes into driving after work, i noticed a smell in my car(fishy,sweat). i looked over to the passanger side and noticed some fluid on the rubber mat. it was greenish and immidiately thought my coolant was leaking. since i live 15 minutes away from where i work, i decided to just drive home. i got home without any problem. i didn't notice any change in temp gauge. i got out of my car and checked under the hood to see if anything was leaking but didn't see any leakage. then i opened the hood to check the coolant level. it was just below min. but not sure what the level it was at so couldn't really be sure i had lost any level of coolant. i called my buddy and explained what had happened and he said it could be the freon from the air conditioner unit. he couldn't see why coolant pipe would run under the dash board area. i let the car cool off for couple hours and decided to take a look at the leakage are. i pulled the cover where the leak was happening but since the leak had stopped i didn't see any sign of leakage from couple tubes(pipes) running where the leak was coming from. so i tried starting the engine and turned on the AC for about 5 minutes and didn't see and leaks. if anyone had this problem or know what's causing the leak, please help. i kind of want to know what's wrong with it before i take it to the shop to get raped on. thank you in advance for your help.
i'm sure i'm not posting correctly but i need help with my maxima.
i have 2006 maxima with 46k and today encountered a problem and don't know what's wrong. about 5 minutes into driving after work, i noticed a smell in my car(fishy,sweat). i looked over to the passanger side and noticed some fluid on the rubber mat. it was greenish and immidiately thought my coolant was leaking. since i live 15 minutes away from where i work, i decided to just drive home. i got home without any problem. i didn't notice any change in temp gauge. i got out of my car and checked under the hood to see if anything was leaking but didn't see any leakage. then i opened the hood to check the coolant level. it was just below min. but not sure what the level it was at so couldn't really be sure i had lost any level of coolant. i called my buddy and explained what had happened and he said it could be the freon from the air conditioner unit. he couldn't see why coolant pipe would run under the dash board area. i let the car cool off for couple hours and decided to take a look at the leakage are. i pulled the cover where the leak was happening but since the leak had stopped i didn't see any sign of leakage from couple tubes(pipes) running where the leak was coming from. so i tried starting the engine and turned on the AC for about 5 minutes and didn't see and leaks. if anyone had this problem or know what's causing the leak, please help. i kind of want to know what's wrong with it before i take it to the shop to get raped on. thank you in advance for your help.
Here’s what nissanpartszone has:
31705-8Y00A: 2004.08-2005.08 *5AT
31705-8Y00A: 2005.08-2006.06 5AT
31705-8Y00B: 2004.01-2005.08 5AT
In other words:
Jan 2004—Aug 2004 (8Y00B)
Aug 2004—Aug 2005 (8Y00B or 8Y00A, VIN would indicate precise part required)
Aug 2005—June 2006 (8Y00A)
31705-8Y00A: 2004.08-2005.08 *5AT
31705-8Y00A: 2005.08-2006.06 5AT
31705-8Y00B: 2004.01-2005.08 5AT
In other words:
Jan 2004—Aug 2004 (8Y00B)
Aug 2004—Aug 2005 (8Y00B or 8Y00A, VIN would indicate precise part required)
Aug 2005—June 2006 (8Y00A)
What still confuses me.. whats the indication that we are getting the new/improved VB from nissan and not just another old one? I would imagine they have a revision number somewhere or there is a way to tell. I don't want to buy another same part thats going to fail in another 60K :/ It seems like we can't go off the part number A and B only seem to distinguish what VB you get.. not how new it is. Although i could be totally wrong someone slap me lol

Ahh thanks for clearing that up for me Costee.. last night was thirsty thursday so i am still recovering.. Think I am going to pick up a new valvebody this week.. I experienced difficulty downshifting last night on a hill.. it was like stuck in 3rd or 2nd gear and wouldn't drop down. It eventually fixed itself once I revved over that gear.. it got stuck in a limbo mode or something. Either way I think it's time..
Ahh thanks for clearing that up for me Costee.. last night was thirsty thursday so i am still recovering.. Think I am going to pick up a new valvebody this week.. I experienced difficulty downshifting last night on a hill.. it was like stuck in 3rd or 2nd gear and wouldn't drop down. It eventually fixed itself once I revved over that gear.. it got stuck in a limbo mode or something. Either way I think it's time..
No SES lights.. I did get the car in limp mode about a year back.. the dtc slip and all these other lights came on.. cleared the codes by pulling the battery and they never came back.
other than that everything has been smooth sailing just some kinda jerky shifts from time to time.. which i am attributing to the valve body.
other than that everything has been smooth sailing just some kinda jerky shifts from time to time.. which i am attributing to the valve body.
Ok. Just to be on the safe side, I think the scan should be done. I know it could be somewhat expensive over there (I'm in Nigeria). I have a scan tool which I got from Amazon when I bought my car last year. I'm sure you could get that too.
I am going to have to do it tomorrow.. I'll have them scan my car but I think I am straight up just going to get the new valve body. It's necessary. Praying that the class action lawsuit goes through and they refund us for this mess
I had the same problem as everyone else. The car was slamming into gear from R to D and it was also downshifting hard. I had another car to drive so I just waited on the part I got from Courtesy ($845 Valve Body) and I replaced it yesterday. I drove for 100 mile and so far so good. The instructions on this page are excellent. The only thing I would add to that is to remove the front splash guard underneath and connected to the bumper just for better access. On the cover there were 2 bolts that gave me hell also on the valve body those 2 connectors were tough to get out. One I broke off but it was on the old valve so who cares. I now have a Valve Body for exchange only since I did brake the connector (the black plastic that the plug slides into) also a used Throttle body. So if any one needs a Valve Body or a Throttle Body let me know. It took me better part of the day to do but I think it was worth it.
I had the same problem as everyone else. The car was slamming into gear from R to D and it was also downshifting hard. I had another car to drive so I just waited on the part I got from Courtesy ($845 Valve Body) and I replaced it yesterday. I drove for 100 mile and so far so good. The instructions on this page are excellent. The only thing I would add to that is to remove the front splash guard underneath and connected to the bumper just for better access. On the cover there were 2 bolts that gave me hell also on the valve body those 2 connectors were tough to get out. One I broke off but it was on the old valve so who cares. I now have a Valve Body for exchange only since I did brake the connector (the black plastic that the plug slides into) also a used Throttle body. So if any one needs a Valve Body or a Throttle Body let me know. It took me better part of the day to do but I think it was worth it.
I had the same problem as everyone else. The car was slamming into gear from R to D and it was also downshifting hard. I had another car to drive so I just waited on the part I got from Courtesy ($845 Valve Body) and I replaced it yesterday. I drove for 100 mile and so far so good. The instructions on this page are excellent. The only thing I would add to that is to remove the front splash guard underneath and connected to the bumper just for better access. On the cover there were 2 bolts that gave me hell also on the valve body those 2 connectors were tough to get out. One I broke off but it was on the old valve so who cares. I now have a Valve Body for exchange only since I did brake the connector (the black plastic that the plug slides into) also a used Throttle body. So if any one needs a Valve Body or a Throttle Body let me know. It took me better part of the day to do but I think it was worth it.
Good luck on another 100K+ miles.
Hey fellers, I finally found a tranny guy who will install a kit, as a matter of fact he says that he's installed several shift kits on different brands and models. This will be his first 6th Gen, though. He kept mentioing Sonnax, so I told him if that's what he's comfortable with, so be it. I'm still wrestling with the new VB vs. shift kit though. My thinking is, if the shift kit rebuilds the VB, that's just as good as a new one, right? Not to mention a lot cheaper. Also, I've been running my Max probably about 10k since I've noticed the problem, it's never been troublesome until this summer, maybe because of the heat. Has anyone else done that? I was hoping that since the valve body housed the problem and will be rebuilt, then the rest of the tranny should be fine. Does anyone agree or disagree?
I would really like to see some posts from folks who have been riding 6 months or a year on the kit, to see how it held up. How about it?
I would really like to see some posts from folks who have been riding 6 months or a year on the kit, to see how it held up. How about it?






















