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RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Just in case someone has to save some money!!! 
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...alve-body.html
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...alve-body.html
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
Code PO726 - starts off in 5th. & slams into reverse. What is the fix?
I also have code PO726. Starts off & stays in 5th. It also jerks hard when putting into reverse. Nissan has switched the ignition relay with the fog light relay & it worked flawlessly for 10 days & returned. Next they put a new ecm relay--worked for 1 day. Its now in a trans. shop where the technician is trying to diagnose the problem. He says its a electrical issue. What did you do to solve your code? Is this a valve body issue as most people have indicated?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1
shift kit fail
Hi,
About two and a half months ago i had the transgo shift kit installed for all the same issues stated in this thread. I also did the flushes recommended after the repair was done. The car was like new for two months, i mean no hard shifting or slipping it was perfect. Two weeks ago the same problems returned. I have a feeling that the transmission was too badly affected by this design flaw and therefore doomed the transgo fix. Ive decided to sink not another dime in the 5spd at, I am now seeking any and all info on doing a swap to the 6spd manual. I would greatly appreciate info from anyone who has done this swap or has done the research and may have pricing. The car is still driveable but prob not for long, i live in the dfw area of texas. Please email, reply to post or call me with any advice.
email: lonerganj@gmail.com
phone: 817-832-9434
About two and a half months ago i had the transgo shift kit installed for all the same issues stated in this thread. I also did the flushes recommended after the repair was done. The car was like new for two months, i mean no hard shifting or slipping it was perfect. Two weeks ago the same problems returned. I have a feeling that the transmission was too badly affected by this design flaw and therefore doomed the transgo fix. Ive decided to sink not another dime in the 5spd at, I am now seeking any and all info on doing a swap to the 6spd manual. I would greatly appreciate info from anyone who has done this swap or has done the research and may have pricing. The car is still driveable but prob not for long, i live in the dfw area of texas. Please email, reply to post or call me with any advice.
email: lonerganj@gmail.com
phone: 817-832-9434
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
From: Queens NY
Hi,
About two and a half months ago i had the transgo shift kit installed for all the same issues stated in this thread. I also did the flushes recommended after the repair was done. The car was like new for two months, i mean no hard shifting or slipping it was perfect. Two weeks ago the same problems returned. I have a feeling that the transmission was too badly affected by this design flaw and therefore doomed the transgo fix. Ive decided to sink not another dime in the 5spd at, I am now seeking any and all info on doing a swap to the 6spd manual. I would greatly appreciate info from anyone who has done this swap or has done the research and may have pricing. The car is still driveable but prob not for long, i live in the dfw area of texas. Please email, reply to post or call me with any advice.
email: lonerganj@gmail.com
phone: 817-832-9434
About two and a half months ago i had the transgo shift kit installed for all the same issues stated in this thread. I also did the flushes recommended after the repair was done. The car was like new for two months, i mean no hard shifting or slipping it was perfect. Two weeks ago the same problems returned. I have a feeling that the transmission was too badly affected by this design flaw and therefore doomed the transgo fix. Ive decided to sink not another dime in the 5spd at, I am now seeking any and all info on doing a swap to the 6spd manual. I would greatly appreciate info from anyone who has done this swap or has done the research and may have pricing. The car is still driveable but prob not for long, i live in the dfw area of texas. Please email, reply to post or call me with any advice.
email: lonerganj@gmail.com
phone: 817-832-9434
check your PM
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
My 06 max just pulled the code P0780. I checked this and it says:Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shifting solenoid valve
- Shifting solenoid valve harness or connectors
- Shifting solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.
Can any one in the house tell me what numbers 3 & 4 are about. Are they referring to the mounts?
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shifting solenoid valve
- Shifting solenoid valve harness or connectors
- Shifting solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.
Can any one in the house tell me what numbers 3 & 4 are about. Are they referring to the mounts?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
My 06 max just pulled the code P0780. I checked this and it says:Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shifting solenoid valve
- Shifting solenoid valve harness or connectors
- Shifting solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.
Can any one in the house tell me what numbers 3 & 4 are about. Are they referring to the mounts?
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shifting solenoid valve
- Shifting solenoid valve harness or connectors
- Shifting solenoid valve circuit is open or shorted.
Can any one in the house tell me what numbers 3 & 4 are about. Are they referring to the mounts?
Not a fun....
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
update to 5sp. auto. in 04 max.
I also have code PO726. Starts off & stays in 5th. It also jerks hard when putting into reverse. Nissan has switched the ignition relay with the fog light relay & it worked flawlessly for 10 days & returned. Next they put a new ecm relay--worked for 1 day. Its now in a trans. shop where the technician is trying to diagnose the problem. He says its a electrical issue. What did you do to solve your code? Is this a valve body issue as most people have indicated?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Many thanks. I'm contemplating getting the oem valve body from Courstyparts. In order not to cause any serious damage to the tranny itself I've decided not to drive the car until I've fixed the issue. In a way, I've been expecting this and now my mind is at rest. When you have the 6th gen it's a problem that's bound to come, and when it comes and you solve it you can then enjoy the car; its just a case of paying your dues! For those of us just having this problem this thread has been mightily helpful because it has thrown up the readily available options in tackling the issue. As it is, I'm settling for the Nissan VB.
By the way, I'm in Lagos, Nigeria, so getting the oem might be somewhat difficult. I'll try.
By the way, I'm in Lagos, Nigeria, so getting the oem might be somewhat difficult. I'll try.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
That's weird because my OEM valve body is 8Y000 and I was offered both 8Y00A and 8Y00B for replacement. Not only by one dealer but by more than one dealers. Another fact is that 8Y000 valve body is now almost discontinued....
I know for the facts that maximas that were built between:
Jan-2004 to Aug-2005 = uses 8Y00B.
Aug-2004 to June-2006 = also uses 8Y00A
(Aug-2004 to Aug-2005 overlaps)
That means maxima's that were build between Aug-2004 to Aug-2005 uses either 8Y00A or 8Y00B depending on VIN.
You are right and one should absolute confirm before getting the new valve body version.
May be maxima's that were build between Aug-2003 to Dec-2003 (Yes they were the first batch build 6th gen maxima's) uses 8Y000 valve body and can be replaced with 8Y00A or 8Y00B. I am not sure but I was told yes. I would ask again if I have to buy new valve body regardless.
Good to know all this and thanks.
I know for the facts that maximas that were built between:
Jan-2004 to Aug-2005 = uses 8Y00B.
Aug-2004 to June-2006 = also uses 8Y00A
(Aug-2004 to Aug-2005 overlaps)
That means maxima's that were build between Aug-2004 to Aug-2005 uses either 8Y00A or 8Y00B depending on VIN.
You are right and one should absolute confirm before getting the new valve body version.
May be maxima's that were build between Aug-2003 to Dec-2003 (Yes they were the first batch build 6th gen maxima's) uses 8Y000 valve body and can be replaced with 8Y00A or 8Y00B. I am not sure but I was told yes. I would ask again if I have to buy new valve body regardless.
Good to know all this and thanks.
Could you kindly confirm for me from courtsyparts which version my car would us.
Many thanks.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 69
From: Aguadilla, PR
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Lift the front end of the car about two feet, high enough for you to get underneath and have
easy access. I used ramps. Please make sure car is lifted safely so there's no serious injuries.
Drain oil from transmission, use allan key to remove plug
Remove battery & battery plate. You will be able to see the upper bolts.
Also remove this bracket.
Now you are ready to start unbolting cover, but first spray Torx bolts with WD40, wait a few minutes before loosen them. The manual tells you not to reuse them,
well let me tell you they cost $8 each at Nissan, I reused them. I cleaned them up with wire brush and break fluid cleaner.
Tip: A couple of the bottom ones were a little more worn from the weather, so when reinstalling put them on top.
Remove cover bolts first. (this cover has a gasket that's very brittle, it will most likely brake if you try to handle it. Tip have a new one on hand when reinstalling).
I strongly recommend having a second person working with you, one can be underneath the car and the other on top.
I had more then one person working with me so we chose to unbolt first then to disconnect wires, if you are by yourself then I would recommend disconnecting before unbolting them just like on the service manual.
From underneath take out bottom and center bolts first, then from the top take out upper bolts, be sure to hold on to valve. You will notice they are not to tight,
remember this when reinstalling not to over tighten them, if you have a tork wrench better for you. I didn't have one so i just used same pressure to tighten them.
Once you pull the valve out, two small washers will either fall off or stay behind. from my photo one fell right away and the other eventually fell off also. these two washers were in excellent condition, so i reused them. In order for these two washers to stay up use vasoline when you reinstalling new valve body.
Here you will start to disconnect all the wires from the selonoids, the S1 - S5 were easy to disconnect, but the PS1 - PS3 were a pain to disconnect.
All the connectors are color coded and measure to length. when you reconnect them it's hard to make a mistake.
Remove bolt from sensor.
Installing new valve;
Place two washers with a bit of vasoline on them back first, then
while holding control valve assembly, connect the parking lock rod sub assembly to manual valve lever sub assembly. Then make sure you put the right bolts were they belong,
(what I did was, as I took one out I placed them on a towel picturing the valve, this made it easy to reinstall in order).
Don't over tight them, remember how they felt when you took them out.
Connect all the wires, again they are color coded and measured to length, but be carefull ok. Make sure they are all connected.
Follow these instructions to put cover back.
wait an 1 hr for RTV silicone to cure before putting new oil.
I lost 3 1/2 qts of matic k oil, so i replaced 3 1/2 qts of new matic k oil.
check for leaks, tighten accordandly.
Good luck.
easy access. I used ramps. Please make sure car is lifted safely so there's no serious injuries.
Drain oil from transmission, use allan key to remove plug
Remove battery & battery plate. You will be able to see the upper bolts.
Also remove this bracket.
Now you are ready to start unbolting cover, but first spray Torx bolts with WD40, wait a few minutes before loosen them. The manual tells you not to reuse them,
well let me tell you they cost $8 each at Nissan, I reused them. I cleaned them up with wire brush and break fluid cleaner.
Tip: A couple of the bottom ones were a little more worn from the weather, so when reinstalling put them on top.
Remove cover bolts first. (this cover has a gasket that's very brittle, it will most likely brake if you try to handle it. Tip have a new one on hand when reinstalling).
I strongly recommend having a second person working with you, one can be underneath the car and the other on top.
I had more then one person working with me so we chose to unbolt first then to disconnect wires, if you are by yourself then I would recommend disconnecting before unbolting them just like on the service manual.
From underneath take out bottom and center bolts first, then from the top take out upper bolts, be sure to hold on to valve. You will notice they are not to tight,
remember this when reinstalling not to over tighten them, if you have a tork wrench better for you. I didn't have one so i just used same pressure to tighten them.
Once you pull the valve out, two small washers will either fall off or stay behind. from my photo one fell right away and the other eventually fell off also. these two washers were in excellent condition, so i reused them. In order for these two washers to stay up use vasoline when you reinstalling new valve body.
Here you will start to disconnect all the wires from the selonoids, the S1 - S5 were easy to disconnect, but the PS1 - PS3 were a pain to disconnect.
All the connectors are color coded and measure to length. when you reconnect them it's hard to make a mistake.
Remove bolt from sensor.
Installing new valve;
Place two washers with a bit of vasoline on them back first, then
while holding control valve assembly, connect the parking lock rod sub assembly to manual valve lever sub assembly. Then make sure you put the right bolts were they belong,
(what I did was, as I took one out I placed them on a towel picturing the valve, this made it easy to reinstall in order).
Don't over tight them, remember how they felt when you took them out.
Connect all the wires, again they are color coded and measured to length, but be carefull ok. Make sure they are all connected.
Follow these instructions to put cover back.
wait an 1 hr for RTV silicone to cure before putting new oil.
I lost 3 1/2 qts of matic k oil, so i replaced 3 1/2 qts of new matic k oil.
check for leaks, tighten accordandly.
Good luck.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
From: Queens NY
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
From: Queens NY
It's important that you change the fluid regularly to keep the valve from clogging. I will do it one more time at the end of the summer. After that i plan to change my oil every 15,000.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
scrui,
Thanks for the info. I went to the shop this morning and dropped off your post with pics and descriptions at 7am this morning. I called at 3 to find out the progress.
They back tracked and started over. The same problem occurred, So they put in the old vb. Still the same problem occurred. The car just won't go into gear anymore. Also, during slow driving, the tech say it sounds like the car is trying to go into 2 gears at once. Now they think its a bad transmission control module but they're going to do a diagnostic tomorrow to find out.. Thats a new part to the tune of $550 from nissan.
This problem was not there when I dropped the car off!!
I called Nissan and they said they'd be more than happy to help me out with this issue, but I'm already $1000 deep in this problem. I'm sure Nissan would get it done fast and correct... Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the info. I went to the shop this morning and dropped off your post with pics and descriptions at 7am this morning. I called at 3 to find out the progress.
They back tracked and started over. The same problem occurred, So they put in the old vb. Still the same problem occurred. The car just won't go into gear anymore. Also, during slow driving, the tech say it sounds like the car is trying to go into 2 gears at once. Now they think its a bad transmission control module but they're going to do a diagnostic tomorrow to find out.. Thats a new part to the tune of $550 from nissan.
This problem was not there when I dropped the car off!!
I called Nissan and they said they'd be more than happy to help me out with this issue, but I'm already $1000 deep in this problem. I'm sure Nissan would get it done fast and correct... Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Per http://www.nissanpartszone.com/.
your version is 8Y00A.
your version is 8Y00A.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Many thanks. I'm contemplating getting the oem valve body from Courstyparts. In order not to cause any serious damage to the tranny itself I've decided not to drive the car until I've fixed the issue. In a way, I've been expecting this and now my mind is at rest. When you have the 6th gen it's a problem that's bound to come, and when it comes and you solve it you can then enjoy the car; its just a case of paying your dues! For those of us just having this problem this thread has been mightily helpful because it has thrown up the readily available options in tackling the issue. As it is, I'm settling for the Nissan VB.
By the way, I'm in Lagos, Nigeria, so getting the oem might be somewhat difficult. I'll try.
By the way, I'm in Lagos, Nigeria, so getting the oem might be somewhat difficult. I'll try.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
I don't know who do you saying sorry to. If you're saying sorry to scrui's transmission issue then just so you know he refused to buy valve body from you and he went ahead with new OEM valve body. To be honest, you are losing levelten's credibility with replying in short messages on this forum.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
update
My o4 max. with 152 Km. (96K mi.) is still in the trans. shop. The limp mode & bang into reverse is intermittent & now there is no code showing. He's thinking its the ecm. Its a expensive try if it does not solve the problem. He still claims this is not a valve body issue. Whats next?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
So sorry. Rest assured that with this next move you're about solving the issue. All woes will be forgotten as you'll re-love your max.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 6
goodbye Max
Enough is enough---have gone back to toyota, at least they have admitted any design faults & helped in remediating the issues.
Think I may take the leap and get the new valve body.. I won't need the transgo kit anymore though is this correct? How do I know if I need a new valve body though. Could I go the transgo route and be okay? I don't have any banging of gears or anything necessarily bad happening yet (knock on wood) however I'd like to preserve my transmission of imminent failure. I only experience high revs and some un-smooth shifts from 2-3 up and down (since I drive like a grandma)
Going to get my VIN # today and post later.. Also how do I found out my current valve body type any quick an easy way?
Going to get my VIN # today and post later.. Also how do I found out my current valve body type any quick an easy way?
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 74
Hi Costee, Thank you for the referial,,Gentlemen,,what we do here at Level 10 is reengineer your valve body,we completely tear it down and there is some drilling envolved, pluging and replacing check *****, etc. etc. ( i can not go into more detail) we correcting the original manufactures design flaw so the hard shifting will never happen again. It has worked on literally 1000,s of Nissans we have worked on 100% of the time. The price if you send in your v/b $698.00,and it takes about 2-2 1/2 days, again we are only trying to help with out 38 years in the business. 100% is a great number don't you all think?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Hi Costee, Thank you for the referial,,Gentlemen,,what we do here at Level 10 is reengineer your valve body,we completely tear it down and there is some drilling envolved, pluging and replacing check *****, etc. etc. ( i can not go into more detail) we correcting the original manufactures design flaw so the hard shifting will never happen again. It has worked on literally 1000,s of Nissans we have worked on 100% of the time. The price if you send in your v/b $698.00,and it takes about 2-2 1/2 days, again we are only trying to help with out 38 years in the business. 100% is a great number don't you all think?
Hey! For the first time you actually proffer some information on what L10 does to make better VBs. Scrui and Kevmaster should be happy about that!
If I knew I could be without my car for 2 and a half days and if I never saw some of the posts I have seen here I may have considered Level10. No real help offered here just someone looking to cash in on our valve body's in my opinion. I understand they have a fix but the lack of constructive posts and broken English telling us to "bring it in" "sorry to hear" that aren't directed to anyone tell me otherwise. I'd feel better putting my money into the new valve body (the newly revisioned one). Especially since Kevmasters response was spot on I felt the same way. Will be looking into the rebuilt Nissan Valve Body.
Last edited by LiquidIce; Jun 1, 2011 at 07:40 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 361
Springs may or may not require changing. More likely not as long as you clean the hell out of SLT, SLU, and SLS solenoids to let the armature or plunger move freely. Go ahead and also replace the sleeves and plungers together with gaskets. That's all one need to do to make the faulty (sticky) valve body in working condition again.
I felt first transmission gear slams in my ride when my meter was reading 108k miles I believe. I did nothing except for three drain and refill and all I am experiencing right now at 122k miles is mild slams in gears. I am still on my OEM valve body. If that's the case then the OEM valve body is guaranteed to work for 100k miles if you don't drive your ride like an idiot everyday. I heard no valve body builders out there gives 100k miles warranty. Yes we all know that rebuild valve body 100% works but what if it stop working after 20k miles? That was more likely a question for level10. All options are widely open for one who wants to replace the valve body with another one.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7
From: Georgia
I will receive my valve body next week from Courtesy parts next week and hopefully start the swap on the weekend. $845 for valve body and $170 for new throttle body ( some upgrade not sure why but i will replace it) and 4 quarts of fluid for a total of $1080 with shipping. I will take that for another 100K anytime.......
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
I will receive my valve body next week from Courtesy parts next week and hopefully start the swap on the weekend. $845 for valve body and $170 for new throttle body ( some upgrade not sure why but i will replace it) and 4 quarts of fluid for a total of $1080 with shipping. I will take that for another 100K anytime.......
Hi,
I purchased the barely used valve body from chernmax. I did the swap myself a week ago this past sunday. It took me approximately 2.5 hours for me and my dad to do the swap. If you follow the directions as listed previously in this post, it is extremely easy to do. Prior to putting in the new vavle body, I was experiencing very, very hard shift and slams into gear. I have since put on approximately 1200 miles since the installation, and I am happy to report the car is performing flawlessly.
Thanks again, chernmax, for everything.
I purchased the barely used valve body from chernmax. I did the swap myself a week ago this past sunday. It took me approximately 2.5 hours for me and my dad to do the swap. If you follow the directions as listed previously in this post, it is extremely easy to do. Prior to putting in the new vavle body, I was experiencing very, very hard shift and slams into gear. I have since put on approximately 1200 miles since the installation, and I am happy to report the car is performing flawlessly.
Thanks again, chernmax, for everything.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Hi,
I purchased the barely used valve body from chernmax. I did the swap myself a week ago this past sunday. It took me approximately 2.5 hours for me and my dad to do the swap. If you follow the directions as listed previously in this post, it is extremely easy to do. Prior to putting in the new vavle body, I was experiencing very, very hard shift and slams into gear. I have since put on approximately 1200 miles since the installation, and I am happy to report the car is performing flawlessly.
Thanks again, chernmax, for everything.
I purchased the barely used valve body from chernmax. I did the swap myself a week ago this past sunday. It took me approximately 2.5 hours for me and my dad to do the swap. If you follow the directions as listed previously in this post, it is extremely easy to do. Prior to putting in the new vavle body, I was experiencing very, very hard shift and slams into gear. I have since put on approximately 1200 miles since the installation, and I am happy to report the car is performing flawlessly.
Thanks again, chernmax, for everything.
