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RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 152
Very usefull thread. But i think it needs to be made clear. Does the 4sp tranny have the same problem with the VB? I know this thread is for the 5sp autos. But i think i need someone to make it clear it this problem only in the 5sp not the 4sp.? Is the 4sp a good box with having problems or not? Would be much appreciated if someone could clear that up for me thankyou kurt.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 876
From: Lagos, Nigeria
Very usefull thread. But i think it needs to be made clear. Does the 4sp tranny have the same problem with the VB? I know this thread is for the 5sp autos. But i think i need someone to make it clear it this problem only in the 5sp not the 4sp.? Is the 4sp a good box with having problems or not? Would be much appreciated if someone could clear that up for me thankyou kurt.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 152
Oh ok. I've kinda heard mixed views probably more good than bad on the 4sp autos. Heard people say a couple time that the 4sp is actually a solid unit. Don't know Wat to think?
Heres my review on the trans-go kit
I installed this kit on my very bad valve body. My problems started out with the P-D & R-D bang or slamming into gear as others have called it. I went from repairing all of my motor mounts and tranny mount as well. This did help but did not cure the banging. I hate to admit it but with other things going on and having a busy lifestyle i had just learned to live with it until the shifting started really going crazy. The car would flare up in rmp's and then slam into gear so bad that i thought i was going to see the transmission in my rear view mirrors.
My plan of action was to eliminate what could be the cause and with the least cost to my wallet. I figured i would try the transgo kit. If this didnt work i knew a new valve body was going to have to be installed.
Taking things slow and following the write ups , i removed the valve body from the car. The kit is very detailed but i feel that the directions require you to break the valve body down much more than needed. The method i chose to install the kit would not require someone to buy gaskets. I noticed with the 3 soleniods that require deburring were fine in my case but i used the drill bits and followed the directions anyway. I installed the new booster valve and lrc valve. After double checking my work and reviewing the transgo overview of the valve body i went and inspected other springs and valves and noticed that these were in fact stuck and did not spring back as they should have. I gave each spring a pull to stretched them slightly so that they reacted like springs should.I rechecked that everything was as it should and used 2 cans of brake cleaner to clean things up. While spraying into the cracks and ports i got some of the blackest fluid draining from the unit. i sprayed until the liquid was clear coming out of it.
After reinstalling the valve body i took a step of protection by installing a B&M transmission cooler to complete the job as heat is the reason these transmission burn and fail. I noticed that the transmission shifts are snappy but good. Its like the car flys thru gears 1 & 2. The car is much much better. I have driven about 200 miles since the transgo kit and have not experienced the gear slams or rmp flares.
This kit seems to be working for me but i believe this is with the extra steps i took with cleaning and fixing the other springs that i found to be not correctly working. The tranny cooler is also playing a big part as well. I have noticed that my temperature gauge is slightly lower than normal.
I hope this helps anyone who feels they can tackle this job without a shop doing this for them. Its really not that hard if you take your time
Thanks for your time
Cory
I installed this kit on my very bad valve body. My problems started out with the P-D & R-D bang or slamming into gear as others have called it. I went from repairing all of my motor mounts and tranny mount as well. This did help but did not cure the banging. I hate to admit it but with other things going on and having a busy lifestyle i had just learned to live with it until the shifting started really going crazy. The car would flare up in rmp's and then slam into gear so bad that i thought i was going to see the transmission in my rear view mirrors.
My plan of action was to eliminate what could be the cause and with the least cost to my wallet. I figured i would try the transgo kit. If this didnt work i knew a new valve body was going to have to be installed.
Taking things slow and following the write ups , i removed the valve body from the car. The kit is very detailed but i feel that the directions require you to break the valve body down much more than needed. The method i chose to install the kit would not require someone to buy gaskets. I noticed with the 3 soleniods that require deburring were fine in my case but i used the drill bits and followed the directions anyway. I installed the new booster valve and lrc valve. After double checking my work and reviewing the transgo overview of the valve body i went and inspected other springs and valves and noticed that these were in fact stuck and did not spring back as they should have. I gave each spring a pull to stretched them slightly so that they reacted like springs should.I rechecked that everything was as it should and used 2 cans of brake cleaner to clean things up. While spraying into the cracks and ports i got some of the blackest fluid draining from the unit. i sprayed until the liquid was clear coming out of it.
After reinstalling the valve body i took a step of protection by installing a B&M transmission cooler to complete the job as heat is the reason these transmission burn and fail. I noticed that the transmission shifts are snappy but good. Its like the car flys thru gears 1 & 2. The car is much much better. I have driven about 200 miles since the transgo kit and have not experienced the gear slams or rmp flares.
This kit seems to be working for me but i believe this is with the extra steps i took with cleaning and fixing the other springs that i found to be not correctly working. The tranny cooler is also playing a big part as well. I have noticed that my temperature gauge is slightly lower than normal.
I hope this helps anyone who feels they can tackle this job without a shop doing this for them. Its really not that hard if you take your time
Thanks for your time
Cory
Last edited by CXJ Performance; Jan 28, 2012 at 11:43 AM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 6
Just as everyone else I too was experience the same problems. I took it to a local transmission shop where I showed him several websites that commented on valve body issues. He ended up doing a transmission rebuild and also putting in a new valve body. Well the car worked fine for a bit now having same issues although not quite as violent. Still feel that 1-2, 2-3, 3-2, 2-1 shift problems. It also does the occasional banging. The only issue that doesnt seem to happen anymore is the R-D jolt. Ended up taking the vehicle back a second time to transmission shop because of issues and also because I was leaking transmission fluid. He ended up keeping car another week as car stopped while he was test driving and thus an axle had to be replaced and also a 'differential'. Got the car back and still have same issues.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to have this corrected? At this point I am leaning to buy the new OEM valve body everyone else has pointed out and having someone install. I've already spent $3000 and another $1000 is really going to kill me financially.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to have this corrected? At this point I am leaning to buy the new OEM valve body everyone else has pointed out and having someone install. I've already spent $3000 and another $1000 is really going to kill me financially.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 20
I got my valve body from them in May 2011 after driving my car for about 10 months after symptoms first showed up in August of 2010. Only good thing is that the car almost never jerked during the winter months here in Chicago, I guess trans never got too hot, but once the Spring came the jerking started again so I knew it was time to fix it. During those winter months I researched the problem until I found this forum which I didn't even know existed.
I read this thread over and over,
trying to figure out what would solve my problem. I took the car to a local shop where the owner is my dads' friend, he quoted me for $1150 with one year / 12,000 mi warranty because he said that the kit failed in a lot of cases, therefore he didn't want to risk it. With that answer, I mentioned to my dad all the reading that I had done and that some people had succesfully changed the valve themselves, but he told me not to mess with it.
To make a long story short I ordered the valve without telling him, printed the detailed instructions posted here, and asked my in-law if he would help me. We did it in about 5 hours, went very slow. Now it's 7 months & 9,000 mi. into it, and no problems whatsoever.
Spent a total of $750 including fluid & a little $ for his labor.
Anybody that plans to order from Valve Body Builders has to keep in mind that they are in Canada and prices are in Canadian dollars, of course. So just look for the current exchange rate. Also, depending on your credit card, you might get charged a "foreign transaction fee", but this has nothing to do with them, this is all your credit card.
One last thing, if you order their valve without sending yours in, which is how I did it, in their technical bulletin they ask you to check the original valve and look for a spring under a plate that some valves have and some don't, if the original has it, you will need to remove it and install it on the one they send you. Luckily for me mine didn't have it.
Good luck to all.
I read this thread over and over,
trying to figure out what would solve my problem. I took the car to a local shop where the owner is my dads' friend, he quoted me for $1150 with one year / 12,000 mi warranty because he said that the kit failed in a lot of cases, therefore he didn't want to risk it. With that answer, I mentioned to my dad all the reading that I had done and that some people had succesfully changed the valve themselves, but he told me not to mess with it.
To make a long story short I ordered the valve without telling him, printed the detailed instructions posted here, and asked my in-law if he would help me. We did it in about 5 hours, went very slow. Now it's 7 months & 9,000 mi. into it, and no problems whatsoever.
Spent a total of $750 including fluid & a little $ for his labor.
Anybody that plans to order from Valve Body Builders has to keep in mind that they are in Canada and prices are in Canadian dollars, of course. So just look for the current exchange rate. Also, depending on your credit card, you might get charged a "foreign transaction fee", but this has nothing to do with them, this is all your credit card.
One last thing, if you order their valve without sending yours in, which is how I did it, in their technical bulletin they ask you to check the original valve and look for a spring under a plate that some valves have and some don't, if the original has it, you will need to remove it and install it on the one they send you. Luckily for me mine didn't have it.
Good luck to all.
Just as everyone else I too was experience the same problems. I took it to a local transmission shop where I showed him several websites that commented on valve body issues. He ended up doing a transmission rebuild and also putting in a new valve body. Well the car worked fine for a bit now having same issues although not quite as violent. Still feel that 1-2, 2-3, 3-2, 2-1 shift problems. It also does the occasional banging. The only issue that doesnt seem to happen anymore is the R-D jolt. Ended up taking the vehicle back a second time to transmission shop because of issues and also because I was leaking transmission fluid. He ended up keeping car another week as car stopped while he was test driving and thus an axle had to be replaced and also a 'differential'. Got the car back and still have same issues.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to have this corrected? At this point I am leaning to buy the new OEM valve body everyone else has pointed out and having someone install. I've already spent $3000 and another $1000 is really going to kill me financially.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to have this corrected? At this point I am leaning to buy the new OEM valve body everyone else has pointed out and having someone install. I've already spent $3000 and another $1000 is really going to kill me financially.
Most places will rebuild the tranny but reinstall the old valvebody. I suggest doing the trans go kit as a least expensive option and possibly installing a new valvebody if that doesnt work
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 13
From: Worcester, MA
OK guys... just an FYI here as I have had many messages asking me how my tranny has been running since the fix...
I installed the kit at almost 90K miles and I'm at 111K now and it's still shifting smooth as the first day. I have NOT changed the fluid/filter since the fix and it still looks very clean. No banging, no sticky valves...nothing!
My question is... should I change the oil and filter soon? I know it can last a little longer but I'm nervous about it.
I installed the kit at almost 90K miles and I'm at 111K now and it's still shifting smooth as the first day. I have NOT changed the fluid/filter since the fix and it still looks very clean. No banging, no sticky valves...nothing!
My question is... should I change the oil and filter soon? I know it can last a little longer but I'm nervous about it.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 9
From: Missisisippi
OEM vb
Well, I'm looking at getting an 04 SE and the dealer has had the vb replaced. I called the tranny shop and they stated that the vb was an OEM but did not know about any "B" version. I was just wandering if anybody has the part #'s for the OEM "B" version that is supposed to be the latest, and the one that is going to correct the issue.
Also i use a digital caliper to measure the distance from the adjustment to the base. I have seen videos were they say 3.5 turns on 2 soleniods and 4.5 turns on the last soleniod. I wanted to be dead sure so i used my measuring tools that i set to millimeters.
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 152
I have the RE4FO4B 4SP box. There's two transgo kits I can pick from for my
Tranny. Do both of these kits have the better booster valves cxj performance? http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
Tranny. Do both of these kits have the better booster valves cxj performance? http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
THE SHIFT KIT OR REPROGRAMMING KIT???
Please follow the link for the kit i used to fix my valve body
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2608208...Types&var=sbar
Thanks
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2608208...Types&var=sbar
Thanks
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1
From: New Orleans La
Ok i have a 2004 maxima i just had my valvebody rebuilt by level10 and it installed and my problem is worse my service engine light came on and the code was solenoid b which is the green one. So I called level10 and he told me that it might not be a good connection also check my camshaft sensor because i test drove the car and it started in 1st and jumped to 5th and stayed there. I stopped at the red light and went to pull off and the car barely moved it was in 5th and stayed there has anyone experience this before ?
Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 100
From: Oregon
Amsoil in the Max 5 speed auto
Hey everyone! I have an '04 Maxima w/ the 5 speed auto, and am an avid Amsoil guy. I was a little concerned at changing to Amsoil in the tranny of this car, but after emailing Amsoil, and conversing w/ Byron Selbrede in Tech services there, he said to use the Amsoil Fuel Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid, product code ATL, not the product code ATF. Amsoil has never let me down, so I plan on changing this out in the next few days, will let you all know how it works out.
Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 100
From: Oregon
Amsoil in the Max 5 speed auto
Hey everyone! I have an '04 Maxima w/ the 5 speed auto, and am an avid Amsoil guy. I was a little concerned at changing to Amsoil in the tranny of this car, but after emailing Amsoil, and conversing w/ Byron Selbrede in Tech services there, he said to use the Amsoil Fuel Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid, product code ATL, not the product code ATF. Amsoil has never let me down, so I plan on changing this out in the next few days, will let you all know how it works out.
Mercedes, I have been told to change the fluid on the 5sp auto every 20,000. Amsoil suggests every 50k, but I plan to change a lot more frequent than that.
Mercedes, I have been told to change the fluid on the 5sp auto every 20,000. Amsoil suggests every 50k, but I plan to change a lot more frequent than that.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2
Installed Transgo Kit still has delay/bang into gear
Hey everyone..(this is my first post)
I actually started coming here because I was looking to do my suspension and coincidentally found my tranny problem was very well documented on this forum.
I have a 2004 Max SE with 110k on it. I've been lurking for the past few weeks. I've been reading as much as I can about this transmission issue as I am experiencing it too. My problem was more of delay/bang into D, and some downshifting at slow speeds.
I decided to go with the Transgo kit as a cheaper alternative before going all out and doing buying a VB (I would probably do OEM)
I purchased the kit and had my local shop install it for 250 including fluid. The car shifts much better, but after the car/tranny warms up I"m still getting a bang into gear from P>D R>D N>D
Anyone know what might have gone wrong installing the kit?
The mechanic did say that one of the solenoids was out of range and he replaced it. He also mentioned that he did not use the drill bits because it looked like it was going in/out pretty smooth.
I'm planning on taking the car back in possibly tomorrow, so he can keep it for the weekend. If someone has ANY suggestions that I can relay to him I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
LT
I actually started coming here because I was looking to do my suspension and coincidentally found my tranny problem was very well documented on this forum.
I have a 2004 Max SE with 110k on it. I've been lurking for the past few weeks. I've been reading as much as I can about this transmission issue as I am experiencing it too. My problem was more of delay/bang into D, and some downshifting at slow speeds.
I decided to go with the Transgo kit as a cheaper alternative before going all out and doing buying a VB (I would probably do OEM)
I purchased the kit and had my local shop install it for 250 including fluid. The car shifts much better, but after the car/tranny warms up I"m still getting a bang into gear from P>D R>D N>D
Anyone know what might have gone wrong installing the kit?
The mechanic did say that one of the solenoids was out of range and he replaced it. He also mentioned that he did not use the drill bits because it looked like it was going in/out pretty smooth.
I'm planning on taking the car back in possibly tomorrow, so he can keep it for the weekend. If someone has ANY suggestions that I can relay to him I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
LT
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 18
From: Northern VA
Ok i have a 2004 maxima i just had my valvebody rebuilt by level10 and it installed and my problem is worse my service engine light came on and the code was solenoid b which is the green one. So I called level10 and he told me that it might not be a good connection also check my camshaft sensor because i test drove the car and it started in 1st and jumped to 5th and stayed there. I stopped at the red light and went to pull off and the car barely moved it was in 5th and stayed there has anyone experience this before ?
-Galoong-
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
From: Cambria heights, NY
I just ordered:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290426896245...#ht_1887wt_754
&
https://www.wittrans.com/showfilter....59&Section=153
2004 Maxima 5spd auto. They should arrive on the 3rd. Hope this works!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290426896245...#ht_1887wt_754
&
https://www.wittrans.com/showfilter....59&Section=153
2004 Maxima 5spd auto. They should arrive on the 3rd. Hope this works!
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2
Cheapest OEM VB
I don't know if any of you also visit my6thgen, but they have a Nissan dealer from Denver who is giving some nice discounts on OEM parts. I called them up and spoke to Brian (800-530-2002) and he quoted me 792.22 + 15 for shipping for a new OEM VB Part # 31705-8Y00B. Just FYI if anyone was going that route soon..
http://my6thgen.org/f11/discount-nis...y-parts-15188/
I'm thinking about just going that route. My car is shifting like butter now, after the transgo kit and it feels more powerful, but after about a 20 min drive.. It still has the delay/bang in to D.
LT
http://my6thgen.org/f11/discount-nis...y-parts-15188/
I'm thinking about just going that route. My car is shifting like butter now, after the transgo kit and it feels more powerful, but after about a 20 min drive.. It still has the delay/bang in to D.
LT
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
I'm new to the forum but used all of the helpful info on this forum, I had this problem around 115,000 miles about 6 months ago so i bought the Transgo upgrade kit and I found a guy to install it for 250.00. Happy to say not a single problem also changed all four mounts, the car shifts like new. I now have 127,000 not a single problem from the transmission. Im in the San Antonio Texas area if anyone needs this done let me know i can hook you up with this guy.