cheaper cold air intake?
05-15-2011, 11:21 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
yeah i've heard of that. but its not often. if they turn you down just give them a **** face and say well fine ill do my business else where. other then that, absolutely no, a cai will not fail your smog test. we have 3 cats for Pete's sake. whoever the F Pete is. and how valuable is his sake anyways?
a little tip, if you are failing because your hydrocarbons are too high ect... you always pay for 2 tests, or you are allowed a second free test... i think there is a law in place for that someone correct me if im wrong.. but, just put in 2 cups of kerosine to 14 gallons of fuel (old school way) works best for carbureted engines. or use the baddest octane booster with top octane at the pump at 10 gallons (recommended). it'll make your fuel burn hotter thus burning up those pesky hydrocarbons. not to mention you might clear your max's throat and do it some good.
a little tip, if you are failing because your hydrocarbons are too high ect... you always pay for 2 tests, or you are allowed a second free test... i think there is a law in place for that someone correct me if im wrong.. but, just put in 2 cups of kerosine to 14 gallons of fuel (old school way) works best for carbureted engines. or use the baddest octane booster with top octane at the pump at 10 gallons (recommended). it'll make your fuel burn hotter thus burning up those pesky hydrocarbons. not to mention you might clear your max's throat and do it some good.
Last edited by twentyeggs; 05-15-2011 at 11:27 PM.
05-17-2011, 03:54 AM
#46
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: ChiTown "Windy City"
Posts: 169
Does anyone know of a cold air intake that is good, but doesnt run $250 or more? I would like to get one, but just dont want to spend that much.
Also, if I were to choose one or the other, K&N or AEM? I am very new to all this stuff. I know engine basics and stuff pretty well, but I have never really done performance mods, so i am trying to start learning all this stuff. thanks everyone.
Also, if I were to choose one or the other, K&N or AEM? I am very new to all this stuff. I know engine basics and stuff pretty well, but I have never really done performance mods, so i am trying to start learning all this stuff. thanks everyone.
Last edited by Icons04SilverMax; 05-17-2011 at 03:57 AM.
05-17-2011, 08:26 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
smh..... no man, your stock airbox is not a cai... you stock air box is extremely restrictive. if you think the maxima is the same without one, your wrong.
05-17-2011, 10:25 AM
#48
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: ChiTown "Windy City"
Posts: 169
Restrictive only if your boosted, which is not the case here.. Also the stock system has two, count them TWO points of access to cold air... Where with any aftermarket CAI you only get one and guess where it goes.. Right to the driver side fender. Which is one of the access points on the stock air box.. You can go and do a short intake but then it wont be a CAI, simply because you will be sucking in all the heat from the engine.. So like I said before drop in a aftermarket filter and if you think the stock airbox is too restrictive. Get creative with the dremel.. CAI were made for boosted or older cars. Because the CAI concept was still unknown. Therefore wasnt integrated...
05-17-2011, 10:39 AM
#49
The stock airbox for the 5.5 gen has been proven to support up to 250 whp (DynoJet). The design is inferior to the 6th gen design, so I agree.
Same goes for the exhaust, the stock cat-back has been shown to support the same #, and again, the it's design is inferior to the 6th gen.
I'm convinced, a properly tuned 6th gen could put down near 260 whp with stock or ported airbox and a stock catback.
Same goes for the exhaust, the stock cat-back has been shown to support the same #, and again, the it's design is inferior to the 6th gen.
I'm convinced, a properly tuned 6th gen could put down near 260 whp with stock or ported airbox and a stock catback.
05-18-2011, 09:22 PM
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
i do not agree in the least big guys stock air box is never more efficient and never better if you have a proper CAI setup. you may say we have 2 points of entrance and while that is true, a proper CAI set up and 10 min of your time you can gut the stock air box components in the fender and you will have a GIGANTIC space where you will have 360 degrees of access and infinite entrances. you can then use a shield to block off any chance of sucking hot engine air. the cone gives a huge increase in surface area for more breath ability. you are basically arguing the very definition of a CAI..
you are completely wrong. tell me why you lose low end torque after putting on a CAI??? could it be because you don't have the air restriction?? and tell me why this has been proven millions of times on the dyno. I have seen first had the power increases made by a CAI. i have felt first hand a difference in my top end and fuel economy. a simple search will yeild you all the proof you need dyno sheets and all. stock is never better. yes it can handle higher HP, but its not the best set up unless you want a quiet car. an no a KNN filter will not give you better breathability than a cone filter.
you are completely wrong. tell me why you lose low end torque after putting on a CAI??? could it be because you don't have the air restriction?? and tell me why this has been proven millions of times on the dyno. I have seen first had the power increases made by a CAI. i have felt first hand a difference in my top end and fuel economy. a simple search will yeild you all the proof you need dyno sheets and all. stock is never better. yes it can handle higher HP, but its not the best set up unless you want a quiet car. an no a KNN filter will not give you better breathability than a cone filter.
05-18-2011, 09:30 PM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
ram air is a sale pitch, it doesn't work. its simple physics and i did a project on it in my physics class. there are also many sources out there in which added me in the math. science doesn't lie. math doesn't lie. in order for ram air to yeild any performance gains you would need to be traveling at over 800 mph with a very large scoop. 50" squared to be exact. or 600mph with a scoop the size of your car.
ill try and make it simple. when you stick your hand out the window on the freeway your thinking wow thats a lot of wind pressure. well, you would be wrong. what you are feeling is drag. the pressure hitting the face of your palm is very low. the drag your hand creates is very high. in a ram air set up drag is not a factor. psi is. and to create psi take many many many many many times the force created at freeway speeds. this is also why electronic superchargers/turbos do not work, they can create huge currents, enough to blow out of your hand and fly, but cannot generate psi. theres a physics equation disproving that too.
05-19-2011, 08:38 AM
#57
So I incorrect in thinking that at 60+ mph the air pressure on the nose of a car is very high forcing air through the small opening into the motor? Or did I read a lot of misinformation about aerodynamics?
Why don't all cars come with the simpler/cheaper cai then? Replacing my oem parts after a deer hit me cost more than a nismo one.
I was always curious if a dyno is a true measure of a stock air intake since the car is stationary.
I understand the piping is long and can cause drag, but most cai's are hidden sucking for air...
I would think an exposed cai: (maybe behind a grille, or open wheel well?) might be best... of course if you eliminate the chance of hydrolock.
More importantly, with our car and I'm sure others, I thought flashing/reprogramming was needed so the car dosen't simply adjust to the increased colder air and revert to stock hp anyway???
Why don't all cars come with the simpler/cheaper cai then? Replacing my oem parts after a deer hit me cost more than a nismo one.
I was always curious if a dyno is a true measure of a stock air intake since the car is stationary.
I understand the piping is long and can cause drag, but most cai's are hidden sucking for air...
I would think an exposed cai: (maybe behind a grille, or open wheel well?) might be best... of course if you eliminate the chance of hydrolock.
More importantly, with our car and I'm sure others, I thought flashing/reprogramming was needed so the car dosen't simply adjust to the increased colder air and revert to stock hp anyway???
Last edited by NismoMax80; 05-19-2011 at 08:46 AM.
05-19-2011, 12:01 PM
#58
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
So I incorrect in thinking that at 60+ mph the air pressure on the nose of a car is very high forcing air through the small opening into the motor? Or did I read a lot of misinformation about aerodynamics?
no all the physics are correct. there is not enough force in 60, 100, 200, 400, mph to generate even any psi. so ram air is completely false, its a lie. there are millions of sources out there, a simple search will support this claim.
Why don't all cars come with the simpler/cheaper cai then? Replacing my oem parts after a deer hit me cost more than a nismo one.
the dealer will charge you a **** ton because they are the dealer. they need to make up for all the time it took to design a box that fits into the engine the way it does. there was about 15 lbs of plastic that i took out when i did my CAI. the reason they don't have CAI with nose cones off the assembly line is simply because it's better for emissions and smog to have a restrictive air box. car manufactures are under A LOT of pressure to have eco friendly cars. they will readily sacrifice power and efficiency for better emissions. the more emissions control the car has the worse the performance and MPG. if this weren't true then why would the dealer would be spending so much money developing complicated air boxes instead of a pipe and a cone.
if you take a look at supercars/hypercars they don't use air boxes because they don't give a **** about emissions.
I was always curious if a dyno is a true measure of a stock air intake since the car is stationary.
yes, the foreward speed of a car doesn't affect anything but the temperature of the air. and when we roll cars, we have huge fans simulating windspeed, its also there to keep air flowing through radiators so the engines and Forced induction systems stay as cold as possible, the colder the better performance.
I understand the piping is long and can cause drag, but most cai's are hidden sucking for air...
I would think an exposed cai: (maybe behind a grille, or open wheel well?) might be best... of course if you eliminate the chance of hydrolock.
this is why CAI are placed in the fender. they have access to outside air where it is cooler. again doesn't affect the major aspect of a CAI which is breathability.
More importantly, with our car and I'm sure others, I thought flashing/reprogramming was needed so the car dosen't simply adjust to the increased colder air and revert to stock hp anyway???
no not for just a CAI, our cars ECU can learn things up to a certain point. when something changes in our car, it can relearn its algorithms. when the ecu does this, it's made to key into the best possible perimeters. with more air coming into the fuel box under WOT the computer knows it can add more fuel to the air/fuel ratio. more fuel more air, more power. under normal operation the computer knows the engine doesn't need the extra fuel to provide the energy necessary to suck the air in as opposed to a restrictive box. it flows in more freely allowing the computer to limit the amount of fuel needed because there is less energy required.
no all the physics are correct. there is not enough force in 60, 100, 200, 400, mph to generate even any psi. so ram air is completely false, its a lie. there are millions of sources out there, a simple search will support this claim.
Why don't all cars come with the simpler/cheaper cai then? Replacing my oem parts after a deer hit me cost more than a nismo one.
the dealer will charge you a **** ton because they are the dealer. they need to make up for all the time it took to design a box that fits into the engine the way it does. there was about 15 lbs of plastic that i took out when i did my CAI. the reason they don't have CAI with nose cones off the assembly line is simply because it's better for emissions and smog to have a restrictive air box. car manufactures are under A LOT of pressure to have eco friendly cars. they will readily sacrifice power and efficiency for better emissions. the more emissions control the car has the worse the performance and MPG. if this weren't true then why would the dealer would be spending so much money developing complicated air boxes instead of a pipe and a cone.
if you take a look at supercars/hypercars they don't use air boxes because they don't give a **** about emissions.
I was always curious if a dyno is a true measure of a stock air intake since the car is stationary.
yes, the foreward speed of a car doesn't affect anything but the temperature of the air. and when we roll cars, we have huge fans simulating windspeed, its also there to keep air flowing through radiators so the engines and Forced induction systems stay as cold as possible, the colder the better performance.
I understand the piping is long and can cause drag, but most cai's are hidden sucking for air...
I would think an exposed cai: (maybe behind a grille, or open wheel well?) might be best... of course if you eliminate the chance of hydrolock.
this is why CAI are placed in the fender. they have access to outside air where it is cooler. again doesn't affect the major aspect of a CAI which is breathability.
More importantly, with our car and I'm sure others, I thought flashing/reprogramming was needed so the car dosen't simply adjust to the increased colder air and revert to stock hp anyway???
no not for just a CAI, our cars ECU can learn things up to a certain point. when something changes in our car, it can relearn its algorithms. when the ecu does this, it's made to key into the best possible perimeters. with more air coming into the fuel box under WOT the computer knows it can add more fuel to the air/fuel ratio. more fuel more air, more power. under normal operation the computer knows the engine doesn't need the extra fuel to provide the energy necessary to suck the air in as opposed to a restrictive box. it flows in more freely allowing the computer to limit the amount of fuel needed because there is less energy required.
its all really simple if you just think about how a car works.
Last edited by twentyeggs; 05-19-2011 at 12:07 PM.
05-20-2011, 01:35 PM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
no, im not being a d***... im sorry if it came off that way. i say that because people (including myself) tend to get wrapped up in what everyones saying rather than thinking for themselves when it comes to certain things, IE... the existence of ram air ect... i thought ram air was a sweet thing and almost bought a functional hood for 800 bucks.
im learning most information regarding performance parts carried between people is BS started by a smart person who's end goal is to make money.
sorry bro your one of my fav mods here lol im not being disrespectful.
05-21-2011, 08:18 AM
#61
no, im not being a d***... im sorry if it came off that way. i say that because people (including myself) tend to get wrapped up in what everyones saying rather than thinking for themselves when it comes to certain things, IE... the existence of ram air ect... i thought ram air was a sweet thing and almost bought a functional hood for 800 bucks.
im learning most information regarding performance parts carried between people is BS started by a smart person who's end goal is to make money.
sorry bro your one of my fav mods here lol im not being disrespectful.
im learning most information regarding performance parts carried between people is BS started by a smart person who's end goal is to make money.
sorry bro your one of my fav mods here lol im not being disrespectful.
I'm always reading plus talking to mechanics old and young to learn about how best to maintain and possibly improve any performance. I often play devil's advocate to help me decide since opinions and facts get mixed up.
05-21-2011, 10:10 AM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
ah i see, i think i took the last one as sarcastic. you never know with the characters on the .org lawl
05-21-2011, 10:17 AM
#63
07-31-2011, 09:36 AM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Columbus OhighO
Posts: 365
I agree, there are some nice cheap setips on ebay.. And all the clamos are nice t-bar type. I was noticing on some of these high end cai's they give you **** *** pipe clamps...
01-13-2012, 02:27 PM
#68
Does anyone know of a cold air intake that is good, but doesnt run $250 or more? I would like to get one, but just dont want to spend that much.
Also, if I were to choose one or the other, K&N or AEM? I am very new to all this stuff. I know engine basics and stuff pretty well, but I have never really done performance mods, so i am trying to start learning all this stuff. thanks everyone.
Also, if I were to choose one or the other, K&N or AEM? I am very new to all this stuff. I know engine basics and stuff pretty well, but I have never really done performance mods, so i am trying to start learning all this stuff. thanks everyone.
So yeah you should check out the HSP on ebay. Unlike other companies they got 4 colours,gloss black,wrinkled black"I got that one",blue and chrome.They are all the same thing just some come with the MAF sensor adapter and some don't. The more well known name brand will obviously cost more but it's the same material,bends and shape. Only thing that sets them a part is the 3M decal. Another advantage is the HPS come in two parts so you can use it long or short. Good luck
01-14-2012, 11:13 AM
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
all i did was put in a stainless steel pipe, an elbow, a few couplings, grommet, and the biggest filter i could get my hands on, you can't see in the picture but that thing is huge, its like a foot in length. the bigger the filter, the more filtering surface area, the less resistance, and resistance is the name of the game when it comes to filters and aftermarket intakes. I am very happy with this.
01-23-2012, 08:25 AM
#70
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 18
all i did was put in a stainless steel pipe, an elbow, a few couplings, grommet, and the biggest filter i could get my hands on, you can't see in the picture but that thing is huge, its like a foot in length. the bigger the filter, the more filtering surface area, the less resistance, and resistance is the name of the game when it comes to filters and aftermarket intakes. I am very happy with this.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KabirUTA13
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
19
10-17-2015 02:15 AM
zzznightmarezz
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
0
09-21-2015 06:32 PM
Keyno McMike
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
1
09-21-2015 07:18 AM
pears
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
15
09-18-2015 05:25 AM