Rotors, have you replaced yours yet or soon to be replaced?

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May 19, 2010 | 08:44 AM
  #1  
I noticed some people bought the upgraded slotted/cross drilled rotors here. I'm just curious as to when they were actually replaced and how many miles/kilometers before you noticed they needed replacing. I talked to the dealer for OEM rotors and they were asking quite a bit for OEM.

This weekend I will be taking the mic to each rotor and determining if they need replacing soon. I'm not so much into the racing/performance need just wondering what other alternatives there are, etc.
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May 19, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #2  
I had Rotorpro rotors for over 2 years and now they are warped, and I just ordered these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories

You can also PM Mike (Import) and automax in the group deals.
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May 19, 2010 | 05:18 PM
  #3  
Alienware performance rotors -- slotted & crossed drilled.

Get em for $240 shipped on ebay.. mention passcode i3lazen.
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May 19, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #4  
powerstop slotted and cross drilled..... with pads included... around $200.00 in ebay...
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May 19, 2010 | 11:11 PM
  #5  
When I had the Max, I replaced the rotors within the first 3 years. The stock ones sucked, and the dealer kept wanting to turn them. Ugh.

So I bit the bullet and got some RTP slotted rotors here:

http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...nes-fluid.html

I was very happy with them. They never rusted or anything.
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May 19, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #6  
My rotors havent been replaced since the car was made but I have had them resurfaced once, and I think im about to replace them with drill slotted
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May 20, 2010 | 03:49 AM
  #7  
Mine are still oem. I think the dealership turned them before selling the car. They are warped again. In fact I think they re-warped within 6 months.

I dont really mind. The steering vibrates a bit sometimes. It brakes ok.
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May 20, 2010 | 05:51 AM
  #8  
90,600 miles and i still have oem. think the left front is warped.
after I recover from the struts and shocks replacement I will upgrade the brakes.
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May 23, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #9  
[/IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/picture.php...ictureid=17562

DID all four in 4-5 hours the cost was a little under the dealer parts.
The Setup is all EBC Which I got from Autopartswarehouse.com , IF you decide go with thisame setup i got, contact me before you buy I'll tell you the good and bad .
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May 23, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #10  
Who made these rotors? On average how much does it cost for rotors resurfaced? Depending after my findings on monday, i'll see if I actually need to get new rotors because the judder when breaking after going 60-65mph may or may be an issue I should address before my road trip... My car currently has close
to 53k miles on it thus far and the original rotors...
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May 23, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #11  
Quote: Who made these rotors? On average how much does it cost for rotors resurfaced? Depending after my findings on monday, i'll see if I actually need to get new rotors because the judder when breaking after going 60-65mph may or may be an issue I should address before my road trip... My car currently has close
to 53k miles on it thus far and the original rotors...
EBC I am not sure how much resurface costs but it can't be that much. IF you can resuface them I would.
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May 24, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #12  
Just checked the thickness of my rotors, they are fine. Can the wheel judder be helped if the rotors are rotated on their placement to try and "troubleshoot" the issue? I accidentally forgot to mark the hub and rotor to indicate the location it was originally on. I forget what others have tried at the dealer, and the issue of warped rotors would come back after some time.
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May 25, 2010 | 11:11 AM
  #13  
I had that exact same problem, our rotors can warp. I replaced mine at 70k miles with drilled and slotted. Here: http://www.rotorpros.net/

Paid $175 rotors and $70 pads. (the Posi Quiet Scorched). Stopping power way better, no dust. Zinc plated, look good. I'm very happy with them.

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May 26, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #14  
I may be wrong but I don't think you can "cut" drilled rotors when they become warped.
Also, why replace them if they are still thick & not warped?
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May 30, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #15  
My rear seem warped... gonna have to check out my options on what i will replace them with...
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May 30, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #16  
Quote: I may be wrong but I don't think you can "cut" drilled rotors when they become warped.
Also, why replace them if they are still thick & not warped?
Maybe the drilled/slotted rotors won't warp?
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May 30, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #17  
I like your rotors, clean and factory look somewhat. That $175 was for all 4 rotors I take it right? What type of pads did you get for them? ceramic? Did these resolve the wheel/brake jutter at the front? I just noticed that the rear has smaller rotors which I assume is due to most of the stopping power needed is in the front pair. Did you install your own rotors as well? I just replaced some studs on my passenger side, I would imagine that doing all four should only take like 1-2 hours max. Then again having a nice impact gun helps alot...
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May 31, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #18  
I just got my 07 in august and it was warped when i got it.(30k miles) So after a month of highway breaking vibrations i ordered the slotted rotors from rotorpros with the pads. Braking is improved and no dust! deal was around $250
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May 31, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #19  
I'm looking at Brakemotive rotors + Ceramic pads on eBay, will buy these tonight and provide review in about two months or so:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3305wt_1165

I will install these with a friend of mine. Any special tools needed to remove rotors or pads for 2004 Maxima SE? My friend had an Accord in the 90's (94 I believe) and he said he had to use a special tool to remove his rotors. I said I would ask here in the forums.

Thanks for your help!
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May 31, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #20  
Not really, I just removed the front ones so far. I'm not sure if the rear is the same, I am thinking they should be. Just have a nice impact gun ready to take off the 2 bolts for each caliper, have some strong rope to tie the caliper and pads to the springs (be careful to not stretch the break line).

Get some replacement studs if you have damaged ones, the front and rear studs are different. The front studs are longer, and the rear are shorter. Don't engage the brakes at all while you are replacing the rotors/breaks, this will cause the piston to compress. Put a block between the breaks to prevent it from closing just in case.
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Jul 3, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #21  
FYI, finally installed the brakemotive rotors and ceramic pads (from ebay) about 1-1/2 weeks ago. What a difference non-warped rotors make. So far so good, I'll update again in another 2 months or so.
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Jul 3, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #22  
Quote: FYI, finally installed the brakemotive rotors and ceramic pads (from ebay) about 1-1/2 weeks ago. What a difference non-warped rotors make. So far so good, I'll update again in another 2 months or so.
Thanks for the heads up -- thinking of ordering these soon since they dropped the price for the 07 Max rotor/pads to $200 shipped (was $250)
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Jul 3, 2010 | 06:04 PM
  #23  
My OEM were warped within 40k, bought drilled and slotted and they have been Awesome.
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Jul 3, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #24  
Napa Premium rotors and pads. Very quiet, very low dust, black coated for rust prevention, lifetime warranty and good stopping power.
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Jul 10, 2010 | 11:16 PM
  #25  
I replaced all my rotors and pads around 25K.. I went with rotor pros.. Can't complain.. Does its job..




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Jul 11, 2010 | 05:53 AM
  #26  
At 62,000 miles on the 07 Maxima now we will replace the OEM with OEM or NAPA. It is a daily commuter car and the stock style works fine.
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Jul 11, 2010 | 02:41 PM
  #27  
I got the brake judder too, am replacing my OE rotors as they have already been turned once. Am going with the rotopros drilled and slotted and some EBC redstuff pads
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Jul 11, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #28  
Had the Brakemotive d/s rotors & ceramic pads come in a few days ago and just had the front ones put on (will hold off on installing the rears til next month)

So far they seem great -- my car brakes much better now compared to the stock rotor/pads that were on the car. Old rotors looked fine and the pads still had some life left but under hard braking it wasnt stopping well and I didnt know what the previous owner had done to the car so I didnt want to risk cutting the rotors and having them warp in a few months

Did break-in the new pads but it started raining hard after that so didnt get a chance to drive much. Brake fluid is also above the max line so will have to remove some of it in the morning
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Jul 11, 2010 | 11:01 PM
  #29  
Why wait till next month to replace the rotors? You just need a 19mm combo wrench to take off the 2 big bolts that hold the caliper. Given the year of your Maxima, I don't think you should run into a problem with replacing the rear rotors.
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Jul 12, 2010 | 12:46 AM
  #30  
Quote: Why wait till next month to replace the rotors? You just need a 19mm combo wrench to take off the 2 big bolts that hold the caliper. Given the year of your Maxima, I don't think you should run into a problem with replacing the rear rotors.
I live in an apt and park on the street so no garage to work in -- paid a local org member to do the front rotors/pads for now (cheaper than going to a shop and he does a good job). Was planning on getting everything done along with changing the brake fluid but I had a few things come up recently so decided to hold off on the rear pads/rotors and fluid change (biggest thing was that the timing chain just went out on our 98 Altima)

I mainly wanted to replace just the front but I ended up buying the full front & rear set since it was a better deal (front rotors/pads were $140 but the full front & rear set was $200 so $60 extra for rear rotors/pads was hard to pass up)

You're right since its an 07 everything went smoothly for the front and shouldnt be a problem for the back. Ended up reusing the old brake hardware since the hardware kit I picked up from AutoZone was completely different
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Jul 12, 2010 | 02:49 AM
  #31  
I've got 28K on my 07, and I've got a minor steering wheel shake when braking. It's been there almost since I bought the car used 2 years ago (w/17K miles on it). The stock rotors pretty much suck. I'm going to live with it until the pads go, then it will be new rotors/pads for me too.

Jatan,

Where did you get front/rear rotors/pads for $200?
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Jul 12, 2010 | 08:07 AM
  #32  
Quote: Jatan,

Where did you get front/rear rotors/pads for $200?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220627885161 (the price bounces between $200-$250 so order when its $200)
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Jul 12, 2010 | 08:34 PM
  #33  
Quote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220627885161 (the price bounces between $200-$250 so order when its $200)

Thank you, I'll be keeping an eye on them.
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Jul 13, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #34  
I have OEM rotors with 97,000 miles. Just had the front resurfaced last week since I had new front pads installed.
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Jul 13, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #35  
58k on my 2k5 SL
Ended up having my rotors turned, put new pads on, and viola, no more vibration during breaking...
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Jul 15, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #36  
I just put the ebay slotted/drilled rotors, and ceramic pads on for 200.00 shipped. I'm very pleased so far!
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Jul 29, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #37  
Replacing stock w/ R1 Concepts...
Replacing Stocks at 40,000 miles with x drilled and slotted R1 Concepts. Bought them on eBay for $202.00 shipped from Brakelabs. The Brakelabs description did not say R1 Concepts, but when delivered from UPS and inspected, the Brakelabs label was peeled back and it shows they are R1 Concepts Rotors. Heard good things about R1. Came w/ some Centric Ceramic pads. I am concerned about them. Will be better than what I have!!
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Jul 30, 2010 | 02:36 AM
  #38  
I was thinking of just replaing the back ones with slotted my front ones are new and are nothing special from autozone is there any known proplems with just doing the back and not the front ones?
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Jul 30, 2010 | 06:36 AM
  #39  
Quote: I was thinking of just replaing the back ones with slotted my front ones are new and are nothing special from autozone is there any known proplems with just doing the back and not the front ones?
Replace the ones that need replacing. Doesn't make a difference if it's the front, or rear, or both.
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Sep 3, 2010 | 08:40 AM
  #40  
Quote: My rotors havent been replaced since the car was made but I have had them resurfaced once, and I think im about to replace them with drill slotted
How many miles do you have?
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