6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

07 new Rotors and Brakes.

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Old 04-30-2011, 05:12 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by QwikKota
I will enjoy not having the warped rotor shake through the steering wheel, that's for sure. Hit me back with some feedback, lol.

Where are you from, if you don't mind me asking, Trinidad? I grew up in St. Thomas by the way. I don't have much of an accent though.
You are going to blow my cover on the org, lol. I am a special agent working an undercover job for the governemt. I use the accent to blend in and make people give away secrets really quick.

My first language is french, hence the accent. But I will PM you for more info, can't blow my whole cover on the org.

Last edited by PetitFrereMaxima; 04-30-2011 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 67 Lamnas
Front rotors for $33 each, rear rotors for $16 each, Front pads were $22 and rears were $13...shipping was free, and no sales tax. Centric brand for everything.

I also bought new spark plugs and drive belts for another $95...spent most of today doing it, but the car runs and stops great.

From here:
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/
WHAT??? Are you serious? WOW is all I can say. Please, let us know how it works for you. Were they blank rotors? Cermic pads? Some people might want that deal. As for me, I am going the Alien route.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:42 PM
  #43  
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They are centric c-tek and they are better than OEM even though they are $17 an pop for rear and $30 a pop for front. Their higher end rotors are premium version and even powerslots/powerstop/etc thyey all use them and then sell them with slotted and drilled. About the centric pads, I don't have any experience but I have recently bought centric premium ceramics and I will be putting them in my car very soon.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:17 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by PetitFrereMaxima
WHAT??? Are you serious? WOW is all I can say. Please, let us know how it works for you. Were they blank rotors? Cermic pads? Some people might want that deal. As for me, I am going the Alien route.
So far, so good....no squeaks, no noise, no nothing.....stops on a dime and gives .09 change
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:58 AM
  #45  
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Why change rotors that are still good? Last time I changed the pads, I wirebrushed the rust on the rotor lip and cap, installed new pads, tada. they were within spec, they are still within spec, with 140 000km on the car.

Is it a hobby or something?
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:52 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by tallblazer124
They warp quickly. I still have 60% left on my brake pads and the original rotors are warped and shake at high speeds. The rotors barley can last 20k. miles.
im dealing with the warped issue also.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:43 AM
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My rotors slightly vibrate when I brake but thats it. Cleaned them all yesterday w wirebrush on grinder, calipers, brackets, rotors, put some graphite on them, they look amazing. Still stock rotors at 140 000km....
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Kryogen
My rotors slightly vibrate when I brake but thats it. Cleaned them all yesterday w wirebrush on grinder, calipers, brackets, rotors, put some graphite on them, they look amazing. Still stock rotors at 140 000km....
It seems as if you are more concerned with cosmetics than functionality. How much pressure can the calipers put down if the rotor is warped and pulsating? Not as much as if the surface is true. I will say that turning the rotors is pretty pointless as it's not a whole lot more to purchase new ones and it makes them thin and warp faster.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:05 AM
  #49  
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no issues braking at all...... brakes like a champ
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Kryogen
no issues braking at all...... brakes like a champ
Except for that whole vibrating thing, eh?
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:47 AM
  #51  
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Who cares if it slightly vibrates slightly when braking ? really, what does it change. It brakes well. I dont care about a slightly vibrating pedal. No major issues. Been like that for 3 years, brakes #1.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:21 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by QwikKota
It seems as if you are more concerned with cosmetics than functionality. How much pressure can the calipers put down if the rotor is warped and pulsating? Not as much as if the surface is true. I will say that turning the rotors is pretty pointless as it's not a whole lot more to purchase new ones and it makes them thin and warp faster.
Agree 100%....

When it comes to brake rotors, I care more about functionality than appearance. Mental note about who to not buy a used car from.......
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:29 AM
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Are several Maxima owners having the same brake issue, with warped rotors? Is there a design flaw with the brakes ? I have a 2005 all new top of the line pads and rotors. Breaks real well around town. But on the highway at 60 mph I still get the warped rotor feeling. What is the solution???
Thank you in advance for any information.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:51 PM
  #54  
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Bondo : Maybe bad bearings, bad alignment, rust on the hubs?
bad wheel balance? bad ball joint, tie rod end? check all this I guess.

Mine vibrate way less since I wirebrushed all the rust off with a grinder. Wirebrushed the hubs, and whole rotor in/out, so the rotor sits really true.

By the way, the graphite dry spray isnt worth crap for rust prevention on car parts. 2 days later all rotors/calipers are orange, lol I'll try another stuff next time I guess. The whole point anyway was to remove accumulated rust to prevent caliper or pad sticking. Gets ALOT of rust here w the salt and winter. It kinda jams everything up.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bondobrian
Are several Maxima owners having the same brake issue, with warped rotors? Is there a design flaw with the brakes ? I have a 2005 all new top of the line pads and rotors. Breaks real well around town. But on the highway at 60 mph I still get the warped rotor feeling. What is the solution???
Thank you in advance for any information.
Depends, stock rotors and pads are all made for normal street driving. The longevity of your brakes will also depend on how abusive you are to them.

If you really want something that can stop well on the highway and still be driven around the street than I would suggest slotted rotors. They last a lot longer than slotted/drilled and drilled due to both of them having higher rates of warping and cracking. In addition, they're stopping power is not as good as slotted rotors due to the lack of material obviously.

Last edited by 6.5affiliate; 05-24-2011 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:43 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 6.5affiliate
If you really want something that can stop well on the highway and still be driven around the street than I would suggest slotted rotors. ... they're stopping power is not as good as slotted rotors due to the lack of material obviously.
And I would suggest blank rotors, because their failure rate is even lower in harder conditions, and they have more material.

Ever seen a F1 or nascar with slotted or drilled rotors ?!?

From Wilwood's website:
QUOTE
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.

Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their PURE AESTHETIC value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.


Full article
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...dissolved.html
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Old 07-09-2011, 05:24 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by I3LAZEN
I have a deal setup w/ alien performance rotors. Full info could be found here:

http://my6thgen.org/showthread.php?t=1032

basically they are slotted & cross drilled rotors - all 4 shipped for $215.

use promo code "i3lazen"

Just submitted my payment for 4 cross drilled and slotted rotors. Looking forward to receiving them some time next week.
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:21 PM
  #58  
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arent drilled rotors more prone to crack? can they be considered safe ?
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:52 PM
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I will posting a payment next week.... let me know how everything goes for you...
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kryogen
arent drilled rotors more prone to crack? can they be considered safe ?
Yeah but it also depends on driving habits. If the person doesn't speed to often and brake like a maniac then they should be good for a little bit. But, I think me and you already had that discussion earlier in this thread.

My vote still goes to slotted rotors too LOL
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Old 07-12-2011, 05:03 AM
  #61  
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Drilled or slotted rotors are weakened for aesthetic reasons. Dont get them.
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:37 PM
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Just got my new performance alien rotors.

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Old 07-23-2011, 10:07 AM
  #63  
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Thanks for the post. The info gathered was helpful
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:59 PM
  #64  
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now where is that how to for the rear rotors !!!!!!
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sinnistar
now where is that how to for the rear rotors !!!!!!
What do you need to know? The main thing is not to worry about a tool to turn in the piston, the e-brake is actually a separate braking system inside the rotor such as an old drum brake style setup. I spent $40 on that damn tool kit and it's collecting dust.
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